I’ve shared in the past that I really love roast chicken paired with a bottle of Chardonnay, and today we’re popping open one of my faves – Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay hailing from New Zealand’s North Island. 

I was first introduced to these wines several years ago when I had a chance to sit down for a tasting with Paul Brajkovich, a member of the owning family. I was quite impressed with the whole line and shortly after, I had planned to feature a bottle of a moderately aged but inexpensive Pinot Gris they had released at the time which I had paired with a fried chicken dish. Sadly, we lost all of the pictures related to that dish in a computer crash. Wahwah. I only see current vintages of their Pinot Gris available now, but I can vouch for the wine’s ageability and deliciousness.

I equally enjoyed their Chardonnays, and while their higher-end wines were beautiful, the Estate Chardonnay is moderately priced ($29 average, although I usually see it priced in the mid to low $30s) and delivers bang for the buck. When I first tasted the Chardonnays, I mentioned that they reminded me of a ‘Mersault with the volume turned up to 11.’ I eventually got to experience that comparison in real life. I brought a bottle with me to dinner at a friend’s house with a group of wine industry girlfriends. By coincidence, one of the other ladies brought a bottle of Mersault, so we got to do a side-by-side tasting. 

We enjoyed our Chardonnays from Meursault and Kumeu River with chicken and butternut squash.

Things played out basically as they had in my head. The Mersault was lovely of course – believe me, I’m not knocking white Burgundy. The wine had elegance, minerality, and some nice fruit, but it was a bit more subtle. The Kumeu River bottle had a similar balance of elements I expect from Burgundy, particularly the minerality, bright acidity, and hints of spice, but with the levels turned up a bit; in particular, the bright, sun-shiny fruit notes just jumped out of the glass more readily. Other wine geeks might counter that this is to be expected of a New World Chardonnay, and yes, you’re right, but the minerality and acidity in this wine are higher than one might expect from many California versions, for example. Another way to put it is that this is a great marriage of New World and Old World styles. 

Let’s go ahead now and travel over to New Zealand to get to know this wine better.

Auckland & Kumeu

New Zealand has become well known for its delicious Sauvignon Blancs, particularly those hailing from Marlborough on the South Island. Today, however, we’re going to the North Island, and fairly north in North Island at that, to the Auckland region, which shares its name with  New Zealand’s most populous city. 

Map borrowed from WineFolly.com

As you can probably imagine, being much farther north the most of the rest of the country’s winegrowing regions, the terroir here is a bit different. Most of the area lies on a narrow strip of land between the Tasman Sea to the west and the Pacific to the east. Having water so close in most directions means the region has a maritime climate that is much more humid than many of New Zealand’s other wine regions. This can make things tricky since humidity brings disease pressures. Moreover, most of New Zealand’s growing regions are in the rain shadow of the island nation’s mountain ranges. Most of the Auckland region gets no such protection. On the plus side, since the region is closer to the equator than most of the rest of the country, they also experience warmer temperatures than much of the rest of the country, which allows them to ripen grapes that simply don’t do as well in the cooler temperatures further south, such as Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, as well as particularly good Chardonnay. The breezes that come off the ocean, in turn, help moderate temperatures and keep things from getting too warm. 

The region was formed by volcanic activity about 50,000 years ago, and all of Auckland’s subregions have similar clay and loam soils that both add minerality to the wines, and can help keep the vines hydrated in drier years. On the flip side, those fertile, water-retaining soils can present challenges in the humidity. Growers have had to be very selective as to the types of rootstocks, grapes and clones, and growing methods they use in order to mitigate the problems with diseases and overcropping that come with the humid weather and fertile soils.

While James Busby brought vines to New Zealand in 1819, winemaking in the region really began in the early 20th century when settlers came over from Croatia, Lebanon, and England. As was often the case, the settlers brought their vines with them and many wineries in the area trace their origins back to these settlers, as we shall see. 

Auckland has several subregions, of which Kumeu is one. The town of Kumeu is located about 15 to 20 miles northwest of Auckland’s CBD. There are several larger-scale wineries based around Kumeu, but many of them source their grapes from elsewhere in New Zealand. However, there are also quite a few boutique producers, like Kumeu River, that have figured out how to work with the elements to make some excellent wines. 

Quick side note to give props: New Zealand as a country has an amazing track record on sustainability. Per WineFolly.com, to date, 98% of vineyards are above the ISO 14001 sustainability standard and 7% operate organically, so their wines are an excellent bet if sustainability is important to you.

Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay

Image borrowed from WilsonDaniels.com

Kumeu River's history serves as a perfect illustration of the region’s history as described above and they were one of the region’s early pioneers. Mick Brajkovich emigrated from Dalmatia and arrived in New Zealand in 1937 to work in the Kauri gum fields – Kauri gum was a very important resource at the time. His wife Katé, son Maté, and daughters Frances and Nevenka followed him a year later. The family moved a few times, working and saving, and by 1944, they’d saved enough money to buy land in Kumeu. Initially, the property was used for mixed farming and they raised dairy cows and grew fruit and vegetables. There was already a small vineyard on the property, and they made for their own consumption, just as had been common in Dalmatia. Their production quickly exceeded what they needed for themselves, and as the quality was also very good, they started making wine commercially, initially focusing on dry red wines in the style that was popular in Croatia. Sadly, Mick died in 1949, but Maté and Katé kept the business going which became known as  San Marino Vineyards. 

Eventually, Maté married Melba Sutich, whose grandparents had also immigrated to New Zealand from Croatia. They had four children – Michale, Marijana, Milan, and Paul. In 1979,  the family began to move away from the hybrid varieties that were there, and towards  Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Merlot, which were unusual at the time. 

The new generation began to take an interest and get involved in the family business, which increasingly focused on quality and built a reputation. In 1986, the winery changed its name to Kumeu River Wines and began making a Burgundy-influenced style of Chardonnay using indigenous yeasts, extended lees aging, and malolactic fermentation. 

Today, Kumeu River has 30 hectares (74 acres) of estate vineyards in Kumeu, and they work with another 10 hectares (24.7 acres) from local growers, producing 250,000 bottles annually.  The wines are farmed sustainably and are vegan. The vineyards have predominantly clay soils overlying a sandstone base, which retain enough water to hydrate the deep-rooted vines, so additional irrigation is not needed. 

Image borrowed from WilsonDaniels.com

Fun fact, Michael Brajkovic, who is now their winemaker, became New Zealand’s first Master of Wine. 

I described Kumeu River’s Estate Chardonnay in general terms at the top, and on the night we opened the 2020, it showed all the lovely balance and bright flavors I was expecting. On the nose, I picked up notes of tangy peaches, crisp apples, lemon, and vanilla cream, all laced with minerals. All of those elements continued on the palate, along with a little butterscotch. The oak was well-integrated, and the wine’s bright acidity gave it a juicy quality at the start of the palate that then moved towards a sleek, mid-weight body with lots of minerality. Lovely!

Geeky Details

Details were taken from the tech sheet.

Vineyards: The grape for this wine come from six different vineyard sites in the Kumeu Region,  with careful attention paid to the selection of the grapes. 

Winemaking:  

Grapes are hand-harvested 

Whole-bunch pressed 

Indigenous-yeast fermentation

French oak barrels, 20% new oak

100% barrel fermentation

100% malolactic fermentation

11 months maturation in barrel

The Pairing: Roasted Sheet Pan Chicken Thighs with Veggies

Since I’ve had these wines quite a few times, I had a good idea of the flavor profile. As I mentioned, I find it hard to resist roast chicken with Chardonnay, particularly one with a bot of oak on it. This time I thought I’d create a sheet pan-style dinner with vegetables and seasonings that would play to the different aspects of the wine. Now, I say sheet pan, but I’d recommend using a roasting pan or at least a deeper sheet pan since the chicken and vegetables give off a lot of juices. Of course, you want to avoid a mess, but likewise, you’ll want to catch those juices to serve on chicken and veggies because they’re delicious. 

I used yogurt flavored with lemon and garlic as a marinade in order to play to the wine’s tangy, juicy qualities.  Meanwhile, I opted for cauliflower, mushrooms, and potatoes to tease out more earthy elements. I used parsley as a garnish, which is optional, but I do think it also helped bring out herbal notes in the wine and worked with its minerality as well. While I kept the seasonings fairly simple here, feel free to play around and change them up.

Everything worked as I’d hoped and different flavors in the wine came out depending on the composition of the bite – sometimes the citrus notes were highlighted, while at others the wine appeared more earthy or minerally. It was delicious, easy, and in the end, there was only one pan for my husband to clean. 

*****

This month the World Wine Travel (#WorldWineTravel) blogging group is taking a virtual trip around New Zealand's North Island. Linda of My Full Wine Glass is hosting and you can read her invitation here and be sure to check out the rest of the group's posts:

• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm: A Fun Halloween Birthday Feast featuring Supernatural Spook Light Pinot Gris Orange Wine
• Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla: 3 x 3: Triple Porcini'd Polenta + a Three Grape Red Blend from Gisborne
• Susannah at Avvinare: Taking a Look At Waiheke Island Wines
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass: Two Hawke's Bay whites for a virtual visit to NZ North Island

Additional sources used for this post and extra reading:

• NZwine.com
  
• Winenz.com
  
• Wine-searcher.com
  
• NZwinedirectory.co.nz
  
• The Oxford Companion to Wine via Jancisrobinson.com
  
• Winefolly.com: New Zealand Chardonnay – Jewel of the South Pacific
  

I’ve been taking a summer vacation from the blog for a few weeks, and as I’m reemerging this week, I think it’s only appropriate to toast with a bottle of bubbly. 

Today we’re going way, way, way Down Under. We’re picking up our exploration of Australian wine, and we’re going about as far south in the country as you can go to Tasmania. Australia’s Island State is known for its Devils, gorgeous scenery, and incredibly clean air. It’s also a pretty ideal place to make sparkling wine – so let’s go ahead and pop a bottle!

Cheers!

An Intro to Tassie Wine

Map borrowed from WineFolly.com

Tassie wines are still somewhat undiscovered gems. They represent less than 1% of Australia’s wine production, but they’re known for their quality, and as a result, this is one Australian winemaking region where demand outpaces supply. 

Despite the production numbers being small, winemaking history goes back to the early days of Australia’s European settlement. Its first vineyards were planted in 1823 – which gives it a potential claim over the Hunter Valley, which is generally cited as Australia’s oldest region. The issue is that after its early start, winemaking on the island pretty much dried up for about a century starting in the second half of the 1800s and then reemerged in the 1950s, so it hasn’t been continuous. 

Tasmania is way down south – located between the southern parallels of  40° and 44° latitude, about 150 miles (240 km) off the coast of Victoria. As you can probably imagine, things get can get chilly around these parts, so the grapes they focus on as pretty different from much of the rest of mainland Australia. Rather than Shiraz, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon which like the heat, we see grapes that like the cool maritime climate take center stage here. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay take the top spots for plantings, and those are followed by Sauv Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. (We saw this in the Yarra Valley* in Victoria, and now we’re even farther south.) 

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay also happen to be the grapes most traditionally used for traditional method sparkling wines, and much like Champagne, cooler climates tend to be perfect for making bubbly as the grapes retain lots of crisp acidity. Lo and behold, Tasmania has developed a reputation for making some of the country’s best sparkling wines. Moreover, Australia’s first sparkling wine was made in Tasmania in 1826.

Tasmania’s landscape is dominated by dolerite-capped mountains which give the island its complex geography with many varying terroirs and micro-climates. Most notably, the mountains on the western side create a rain shadow that blocks the majority of rain from hitting the island’s seven major growing areas: North West, Tamar Valley, Pipers River, East Coast, Coal River Valley, Derwent Valley, Huon Valley / d'Entrecasteaux Channel. 

Thanks to the shifting and colliding of continents, plus volcanoes, and the movements of bodies of water, Tasmania’s soils are incredibly diverse. If you have a few minutes to geek out, check out this video for a mind-bending look at their geology.

The Wine: Jansz Premium Cuvée Brut Tasmania 

Alcohol: 12%  | Price: $19.99 (Purchased at K&L) 

Jansz Tasmania has been solely focused on sparkling winemaking since 1986. Champagne house Louis Roederer saw similarities between the climate in the Pipers River region, where the original vineyards are located, and that of Champagne, and they decided to partner with the owners of Heemskerk Wines to create Tasmania’s first premium, traditional method sparkling wine house. The Hill-Smith family purchased the property in 1998 and they’ve established it as one of the most highly regarded family-owned sparkling wine houses in Australia. 

The winery’s name pays homage to Tasmania’s namesake, the Dutch explorer Abel Janszoon Tasman who first sighted the island in 1642. When the vineyards were first established in 1975, they were named after Tasman’s ship, the Heemskerk. 

Image borrowed from Jansz's website.

The Pipers River region has a maritime climate but also gets a lot of sunshine hours, making it excellent for grape-growing. Cool winds from the Bass-Strait also helps to moderate temperatures in the vineyards from becoming too extreme both in the summer and winter, resulting in a long, cool, sunny growing season that allows the grapes to ripen slowly and develop their flavors.  The Janz vineyards here sit on a bed of free-draining red basalt soils, which also adds to the minerality of the wines. 

The wines are made in traditional method and they've put a little spin on the "Méthode Champenoise" and call their take "Méthode Tasmanoise":

Méthode Tasmanoise is the embodiment of every aspect of our unique place. It goes beyond terroir, beyond winemaking. Méthode Tasmanoise encapsulates our Tasmanian way of life and our respect for our environment, the natural wilderness, our clean air, fertile soils, pristine waters, the untamed oceans. It celebrates our unique crafts and the synergy between our wares and our surrounds. Most of all, Méthode Tasmanoise embraces the people that call our island state their home

The Hill-Smith family owns several wineries around Australia and they are all run sustainably. They lay out quite a few of the details of their practices here. The particular bottling we’re talking about today is certified sustainable and vegan friendly.

We opened the Jansz Premium Cuvée Brut Tasmania NV and were greeted with notes of lemon cream and apple blossom on the nose. On the palate, the wine was crisp and bright with a mixture of crunchy green and gold apples, lemon juice and curd, white peach, a hint of berry, a touch of toast and brown sugar, and lots of salinity.

For the price, this is a lovely bottle of bubbly.

Geeky Details

The Pairing: Lobster Tartines with Leeks and Mushrooms

In looking up what foods are commonly grown and produced in Tasmania, I discovered that it is one of the world’s leading suppliers of lobster and abalone. Pairing this bubbly with buttery lobster seemed like a perfect way to go! 

Lobster need not be fancy. In this case, I decided to serve it on grilled bread as a tartine, or open-faced sandwich, topped with sautéed leeks and mushrooms that I thought would bring out the wine’s more earthy notes and tease out hints of herbal flavors. In the end, the dish I came up with to pair with this wine is more about assembly rather than any elaborate cooking.

I ran into one tiny snag when I went to the grocery store – no lobster. No abalone either. I found my solution in the freezer section via Luke’s Lobster pre-packaged knuckle and claw meat. It proved quite tasty and very convenient. (I was addicted to Luke’s Lobster rolls when we lived in New York.) I simply thawed the meat and tossed it all in warm, melted butter and heated it gently, then sprinkled it with a bit of included seasoning. 

The only thing on this dish that required real preparation was the leeks and mushrooms, and that only requires only a few ingredients and little attention. Despite this, the combo becomes really saucy and flavorful. I use the same mix in many different ways including to top all kinds of proteins, mixed into a grain bowl, on a sandwich, or in an omelet or quiche. If you add more stock or water it becomes a fabulous base for a soup, and if you stir in a touch of cream when it comes off the heat, it's fabulously completely decadent. 

In this case, as I mentioned, I layered the leeks and mushrooms on slices of buttery grilled bread, along with arugula, and the buttery lobster meat. The pairing was just lovely and worked even better than I’d hoped. The wine would show different facets with each bite. With the buttery sweet lobster meat the plumper, riper fruits note would come out. The char on the bread at times brought out the wine’s toastiness. At other times, earthier and more minerally notes came out to play. Mostly, it was simply delicious and refreshing with the tartines. 

***** 

*****

The rest of the World Wine Travel blogging group (#WorldWineTravel) is exploring the wines from Tasmania, as well as other Aussie Sparklers and Stickies this month. Check out the rest of their posts:

• Lori is tasting “Tasmanian Sparkling and Egg Rolls” at Exploring the Wine Glass
• Camilla is showcasing “Tasmania + Hawaii: Celebrating with an Island Wine and Island Eats” at Culinary Adventures with Camilla 
• Jeff shares how we can “Discover Rutherglen Stickies” at Food Wine Click!
• Robin is pairing “Sparkling Wine from Jansz Tasmania and a Tassie-inspired seafood curry pie” at Crushed Grape Chronicles
• Kat has a “Surprise! South Australia Pét-Nat is on the Rise” at The Corkscrew Concierge
• Susannah is featuring “Tasmanian Chardonnay” at Avvinare
• Deanna is popping an “Australian Sparkling Wine from Deviation Road” at Wineivore
• Linda is having “Sparkling Aussie Shiraz as summer draws to a close” at My Full Wine Glass

Last month we started an exploration of Australia’s Hunter Valley with a trip down memory lane of the brief months we spent living in Sydney and a visit to Hope Estate. Today we’re continuing the journey with a look at my other favorite stop from the visits we made to the Hunter Valley: Tyrrell’s.

It was hot and muggy out when we visited Tyrrell’s Wines on Christmas Eve in 2009. Walking outside felt like moving through soup. My mother-in-law Carolyn and my good friend Marc were both visiting, taking advantage of the final weeks of our stay in Oz. Thinking that wine tasting would be an activity that could please everyone in the group, we headed up to the Hunter Valley, but the intensity of the summer’s heat and humidity was formidable and it did us all in. We ended up cutting our day short and I recall us all being kind of grumpy and sticky on the drive back to Sydney. The fact that Tyrrell’s stands out as a bright spot in the day says a lot. The wines were good enough to cut through all the bad moods and stuck in my memory as my favorite winery visited during our time in New South Wales. 

Marc, Greg, and Carolyn at Tyrrell's on the day we visited. Everyone has a bit of a sheen from the heat, but we hadn't yet melted at this point in the day.

Happily, these days I’m also able to fairly easily find their wines stateside. 

HUNTER VALLEY’S TERROIR

Last month we took a look at the history of Australia’s oldest wine region – check out this post for more background. This month we’ll take a look at the terroir. 

Hunter Valley’s climate is a bit of an anomaly for a wine region. We simply weren’t unlucky in picking an unfortunate day to visit the area – the heat and humidity are defining characteristics of the region’s climate. This isn’t a combo you usually look for in a fine wine region. Grapes like a temperate climate that allow them enough heat and sunshine to allow them to ripen, balanced with time to cool off so as to maintain acidity. Grapevines also shut down in extreme heat.  For this reason, most fine wine regions sit between 30° and 50° latitude. The Hunter Valley is right at the edge of this range, sitting at a latitude of 32/33°S.

Zeroing a bit further. Map courtesy of Wineaustralia.com.

Wet conditions can also bring problems. First off, disease pressures from things like molds and fungus go up in wetter conditions. Also, if grapes take in a lot of water from rain close to harvest time, the juice inside can become diluted and less flavorful. 

Luckily, there are several mitigating factors to help conditions in the Hunter Valley. Cloud cover and gentle breezes from the Pacific Ocean tend to roll into the area from the coast in the afternoon. Evenings also grow cooler during the fall and winter. It also tends to rain quite a bit during the growing season, which also helps to cool things off and give the grapes a break. Thankfully, most of the rain comes during the summer, although rain at harvest can definitely be a problem. As you might guess, climate change is also a definite concern in this area.

This image is of Tyrrell's Old Patch Vineyard (borrowed from their site). It was planted in 1867, making it almost 150 years old. It is the oldest vineyard in NSW and one of the oldest in the world.

The terrain for most of the Hunter Valley is made up of gently sloping hills with the Hunter River and its tributaries running throughout it. Many of the most prestigious vineyards are located in the foothills and valley of the Brokenback Range, which is part of the Great Dividing Range. The terrain of the Upper Hunter area is considerably flatter than other sections. The Goulburn River (a major tributary of the Hunter) runs through the region and helps to provide water for irrigation in the drier parts of the region. 

The Hunter Valley sits on an ancient seabed, giving it rich and diverse soils. Volcanic soils also run through various parts of the region. Pokolbin, where our winery today is located, has red volcanic soils on sites on higher ground that is particularly good for Shiraz. White grapes like Sémillon and Chardonnay tend to be planted on white sands and loam located on the lower ground. 

A BIT ABOUT SÉMILLON

Sémillon is an interesting grape. Wines made from this variety tend to undergo complete personality changes as they age, even more so than most other grapes. When they’re young, the wines show lots of citrus, green apple, and peach, along with notes of blanched almond, beeswax, or a lanolin component that gives the grape a lot of texture and mouthfeel.  As the wines age, the flavors deepen and become riper, deeper, honeyed, and more tropical, and the nutty flavors become toastier. They’ll also often start to taste like they spent time in oak, even when the wine never got close to a barrel. 

The Hunter Valley is a benchmark region for the grape. (In general, we look to Bordeaux and Australia for the premier examples of this variety.) The style the Hunter Valley is known for doesn’t seem like it should be possible under the growing conditions – super zesty, bright, and crisp. The typical Hunter Valley Sémillon (HVS) is picked early, handled gently to reduce skin and seed extract, fermented at cold temperatures in stainless steel, and is then transferred to bottles as soon as fermentation stops. As a result of being picked early, the wines tend to be lower in alcohol – around 10 to 11%. Wine Australia describes the HVS in this way:

When first bottled, Hunter Valley Semillon is almost water-white in appearance with aromas of citrus, grass, straw, lanolin, and subtle green herbs. It’s crisp and delicate with a chalky minerality. Patience pays great dividends, however, and the finest examples with high acidity and low alcohol transform after as little as five years in bottle, revealing honeyed, toasty, grilled nut characters – almost as if the wine has spent time in oak (even though it hasn’t). It’s these wines that make Hunter Valley Semillon one of the wine world’s great collectible wonders. Prices of these age-worthy Semillons are well within reach of most wine lovers and, under the right conditions, the transformation that occurs over time is substantial. The key point of difference in aged Hunter Valley Semillon is that the best examples will retain an identifiable stamp of primary fruit and a nucleus of fine acidity even after decades in the cellar.

The acidity is so racy in Hunter Valley Sémillons that they were often referred to as Hunter Rieslings – don’t let this confuse you, it is a different grape. The typical style here is dry, however, the grape is susceptible to botrytis and the humid conditions in many parts of the Hunter Valley are perfect for it, so excellent sweet versions are also made here.  

TYRRELL’S WINES

Tyrrell’s history dates back to the early days of wine production in the Hunter Valley, and by extension, Australia. It shares the position of being the second oldest continuously owned and operated family winery in Australia. Edward Tyrrell settled on the original property and began planting Shiraz and Sémillon in 1858. He harvested the grapes for his first vintage in 1864. The company has been handed down through four generations and is now managed by Bruce Tyrrell. He began working at the winery in 1974, at the age of twenty-three alongside his father Murray. 

Throughout his long career, he has become a major force in Australian wine. In 2006, Bruce Tyrrell was recognized with an Order of Australia medal for his contribution to the Australian wine industry; improving grape quality, research, tourism, and export opportunities. In 2009, he was named a Hunter Valley Living Legend at the Hunter Valley Wine Industry Awards. He is also currently a Director of the Hunter Valley Wine and Tourism Association and the Hunter Valley Research Foundation. His children Jane, John, and Christopher are all currently working in the business, taking it into its fifth generation.

Tyrrell’s puts a large focus on sustainability and has built a program that takes into account sustainable vineyard management and seeks to reduce energy usage, water consumption, and waste. They established their Environmental Management System in 2009 and they lay out the following stats showing their improvements in energy usage since that time:

Since 2009, we’ve achieved a 68 percent reduction in our fuel usage and a 70 percent reduction in our consumption of coal-fired electricity, which adds up to a 70 percent reduction in our total greenhouse gas emissions, the equivalent of more than 2,700 tonnes of carbon dioxide. This translates to a 32 percent reduction in our greenhouse gas emissions per liter of wine produced.

In recent years, they’ve also focused on reducing waste and note that their recycling program has resulted in a 60 percent reduction in the amount of solid waste sent to landfill. They also dry-farm whenever possible, with about 90% of their vineyards being unirrigated. Wastewater is collected and recycled. These are only a few examples of their sustainability efforts. They lay out their practices in great detail on their website here. (I always appreciate it when a winery takes the time to share the nitty-gritty of their sustainability practices.)

They also point to the fact that they have a high percentage of old vines that are healthy and continue to produce quality wine as a good indicator of the sustainability of their vineyard management practices – 36% percent of their vines are more than 50 years old and 11% are more than 100 years old. 

The grapes for their Hunter Valley Semillon come from a selection of their top Sémillon vineyards around the valley, with an average vine age of 40 years. The wine is made very much in the classic style for the region – grapes are gently pressed and then fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine then spends a short amount of time on its lees to gain extra complexity and mouth feel. It sees no oak during fermentation or maturation. Additional details for the current vintage here and for the 2015 vintage here.

We recently opened a bottle of Tyrrells’ Hunter Valley Semillion 2016 and at six years old it was still in firmly in its youthful vibrancy and hadn’t started to move into the secondary characteristics, showing the longevity of this grape. On the nose, it showed notes of lemon, lime, green apple, and blanched almond. All those notes came back on the palate with the citrus notes expressing themselves in both juice and a bit pith. The wine had the characteristic lanolin/beeswax texture that gave it a medium body and it had a chalky minerality carried through the finish. There was also plenty of acidity to keep things vibrant. The alcohol level was characteristically low at 11%. As the wine warmed up, notes of white peach emerged and the wine’s mouthfeel plumped up and broadened a bit more.  

I think this is a great example of the style at a great price. I can’t recall what I paid for this bottle as it was a couple of years ago, but the price usually hovers around $20ish. (Wine_searcher.com lists the average price for this vintage at $24, and $18 for all vintages.)  I can’t help but wish I’d purchased another bottle to open in a few more years to see where it goes. 

I often see Tyrrell’s wines at K & L  and on Wine.com, or use Wine-Searcher.com to find additional options.

THE PAIRING: SEARED SALMON STEAKS WITH LEMON MYRTLE, LIME, & MACADAMIA OIL 

Usually, when I share a “Cooking to the Wine” post, I taste the wine and then create a recipe from scratch to match the wine based on that tasting. This time I thought I’d show how you can do essentially the same thing by selecting a recipe and tweaking it just a bit to match the wine. In this case, I decided to explore a cookbook I bought during our time in Sydney – Rainforest to Table - A Taste of the Bush by Jill Richardson. The books seek to help the reader incorporate native Australian herbs, spices, and fruits in contemporary cooking. The nice thing is that nowadays, it’s much easier to get your hands on many of the ingredients the book discusses via a simple search on the internet. Amazon has quite a few. 

Since this wine seemed like it would be a safe match for many kinds of seafood, I decided to start in that section of the book. I very quickly found a recipe for tuna steaks that featured lime juice, herbs, and macadamia nuts, all of which seemed like they’d resonate with elements I tasted in the wine. Zesty lime was a shoo-in, and macadamia nuts seemed like a good choice since they’re a lighter-tasting nut, much like the blanched almond. I made a few tweaks based on the availability of ingredients and what I thought would work with the wine. The original recipe called for stronger use of chilis, but I chose to tone this down as spicy heat is often tricky to pair with wines. As it turns out, I think this wine could have handled a bit more, so feel free to turn it up a bit if you’d like. I thought the wine’s texture would match nicely with a meatier fish like tuna. Unfortunately, the grocery store was out of tuna steaks, so I went with salmon instead and these worked quite well – feel free to use either.

Lemon myrtle, the herb the recipe showcased, comes from a sub-tropical rainforest tree. The leaves are the part most commonly used, as is the case here, but the flowers and seeds can also be used. The leaves are most typically dried and used ground. It has a strong lemon/lime flavor with warm, savory herbal notes. If you can’t find it, lemongrass should make a good substitute.

The company that produced the book makes a Lemon Myrtle Lime and Chilli infused Macadamia Oil that was included in the original recipe and sounds delicious. 

I loved this pairing. The lemon myrtle, lime, and macadamia nuts all mirrored flavors in the wine, just as I’d hoped they would, and the herbs along with the greens in the accompanying simple salad brought out herbal notes in the wine. The char on the grilled salmon provided a nice counterbalance to all of the citrusy flavors and resonated well with the wine's beeswax texture.  

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The rest of the World Wine Travel (#WorldWineTravel) Blogging Group is exploring white wines from New South Whales this month. Check out the rest of their posts for more great pairings:

• Jeff with Food Wine Click is sharing "Why Does WSET Love Hunter Valley Semillon?"
• Wendy with A Day in the Life on the Farm shares "Yellow Tail Wine Round 2 and the Weekly Menu"
• Terri of Our Good Life shares "Simply Summer's Best: BBQ Pork Steaks and Rock It Like a Redhead Sauvignon Blanc"
• Nicole at Somm's Table shares "Tyrrell's Hunter Valley Semillon and Seared Salmon Steaks"
• Gwendolyn Alley of Wine Predator shares "Burning Man 2022: Waking Dreams, Secretly Abandoned Spaces, Minstrel Cramp, and the Fox in the Henhouse"
• Deanna with Wineivore shares "Korean Bar Snacks with Biodynamic Somos Orange Verdehlo Wine"
• Cam of Culinary Adventures with Cam shares "A Sémillon from New South Wales + A Snack from Japan"