Somm's Table

Perfect pairings from the other side of the equation.

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There’s a lot of love in the air around here right now.

As you know, Valentine’s just passed, then a couple of days later Greg and I celebrated our 12th wedding anniversary!

We’ve always kept Valentine’s pretty chill. Even before our wedding anniversary landed right after it, we usually opted to celebrate it a day or two before or after to avoid crowded restaurants, or we’d order in on the actual day. We’re even more low key about it now.

Nonetheless, I still like to mark the day with something a little special. A cheese and charcuterie spread is one of my favorite ways to spend a Date Night In, and that’s exactly what we did. (Let’s be honest, I’ve shared more than one of these on this blog. Check out a few others at the end.) While Valentine’s Day has now passed, hopefully, this will serve as inspiration for some tasty Date Nights In of your own. Of course, that date doesn’t have to be with a partner. Make a date to hang out with buds or fam and spread the good vibes around!


Our cheese and charcuterie spread, clockwise from left: R & G Cheese Makers Eclipse ash-ripened goat cheese, a basic Manchego, Brooklyn Cured Uncured Sweet Soppressata, R & G Cheese Makers Goat's Milk Camembert, Journeyman Meat Co. Romano - Palmer Finnochiona Italian Salame with Fennel and Fennel Pollen.

Food is definitely my love language, and on this particular evening, I decided to express it by baking the bread. I’m a big fan of the No-Knead Bread recipe developed by Jim Lahey, of Sullivan Street Bakery. You do need to start things a few days in advance, but it is so soooo easy and the results are really fantastic. A while back a friend gave me a sourdough starter, so now I make this sourdough version from the NYT Cooking. (That’s behind a paywall, so here is another version that isn’t, although I haven’t tried this recipe yet.) Of course, you can keep things easy and buy a loaf – treat yourself to a good one.

Bread ✔
Cheese ✔
Charcuterie ✔

Now for the wine. I’d recently been sent a media sample bottle of Paula Kornell Blanc de Noirs Napa Valley 2017 (SRP $50, 12.5% abv) and what better day to pop it open than on Valentine’s Day?! Paula Kornell launched her namesake brand in 2019, and the 2017 wines were the inaugural vintage!


This is a new label, but one with a lot of history behind it. Paula grew up with sparkling wine as the family business. Her father Hanns, was the third generation of a winemaking family in his native Germany. He was forced to leave his home after being released from a concentration camp during WWII, and eventually made his way to California. He and his wife, Marilouise, were eventually able to buy the historic Larkmead Estate and established Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars in Napa Valley in 1958.

Paula worked in father’s winery, and once the winery closed in 1992, she went onto work in varied and prestigious roles in the California wine world including as general manager of several wineries, as well as serving as chair of Napa Valley Wine Auction (now Auction Napa Valley), and president of the board of directors for Napa Valley Vintners. She started a wine consulting company in 2014 and her own ultimately the Paula Kornell wine label. I’d say all of this make this wine a good lead into Women’s History Month next month as well!





On the nose, I picked up notes of ripe lemons and gold apples. On the palate, the apples were a mix of gold and green, which were joined by baked pears, strawberries, and stone fruits accented by sweet spice notes. There were also light floral notes of honeysuckle and chamomile, and tiny savory hints of thyme and salted almonds.

This is a traditional method sparkling wine and is made up of 98% Pinot Noir, and 2% Chardonnay and aged for 20 months on the lees. The winery also recommends it paired with prosciutto, Époisses, figs, chicken liver pâté, anchovy pizza, or a goat cheese omelette.
 

By coincidence, shortly after Valentine's I had the chance to attend a reception for Paul Kornell, during which I also got to try their California Brut, as well as a special bottling. All were delicious. The California Brut is great value buy with an SRP of $22. I have sample bottle waiting for me, so we may be revisiting it soon.

* * * * *

I think it might be a requirement that one has chocolate on Valentine’s Day, and I was more than happy to comply. I baked up these Fudgy Nutella Brownies. They were off the hook!

You might notice that this is in a pie shape rather than in typical brownie bars. A couple of pans have gone missing around here, but I wasn’t about to let that keep us from good brownies, so into the pie dish the batter went. This picture also doesn't do justice to how good they were. They look dry in this pic, but they weren't in the least. These were also ribbons of chocolate hazelnut deliciousness running throughout.

Ruby port is an ideal pairing for dark chocolate desserts. The rule of thumb with dessert pairings is that you want the wine to be sweeter than the dessert, if not the wine will taste kind of sour. Keeping with this point, I personally find that they tend to work better with darker and denser chocolate desserts, rather than milk chocolate and/or less dense chocolate desserts. While these brownies were still pretty sweet, the bitter edge of the dark chocolate helped offset the sweetness and they worked solidly with the wine.

By comparison, we also tried this wine with chocolate pots de crème on another evening. While I tried to limit the sweetness in the custards and also used bittersweet chocolate, the cream lightened up chocolate, and they didn’t pair quite as well together with the Ruby Port as the brownies. Going in a completely different direction, this is also a great pairing with strong cheeses.

We enjoyed the Warre’s Warrior Finest Reserve Port NV (sample bottle, average price $18, 20% abv) with our brownies. The company that would eventually become Warre’s was founded in 1670. The Warrior label first shipped in the 1750’s and has been made ever since, making it the oldest continuously produced brand of Port.

On the nose, this wine shows notes of chocolate-dipped black cherries, dark plums, black licorice,  and a hint of smoke. The same notes continued on the palate, along with raspberry and blackberry candy and tiny a hint of pepper. 

We’re not going to get into all the different types of Port today, as there are quite a few, but very basically Ruby Ports are usually the entry-level Ports. Gateway Ports, if you will. They’re usually bottled with less than three years of age, but are ready to drink as soon as you open them. No need to age these guys further. They’re full of sweet, ripe berry flavors.

This is a Reserve Ruby Port, which means it was aged in cask for longer than the average Ruby – up to 5 years for bottling. (The tech sheet for this one did not specify how long this one was aged.) It’s also usually a blend of higher quality wines than a basic Ruby. There’s also no need age these guys any further either – they’re ready to drink!

No need to worry about finishing these in one sitting either. Ruby Ports (basic or reserve) will keep for 4 to 6 weeks after being opened.

If you want to take a deeper dive into the world of Port, here are a couple of good primer articles for further reading:

  • A Beginner's Guide to Port Wine: The World's Most Famous Fortified Wine on the Spruce Eats
  • and Wine Wednesday: Ruby Port vs Tawny Port on Wine Folly, which includes a video. 

If you're interested in trying variations on the No-Knead Bread recipe, I recommend Jim Lahey's  book My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method.  


As a little bonus, take inspo from the signature cocktail from the the Paula Kornell Reception.


As for our anniversary, we celebrated with a beautiful dinner at Iyasare in Berkely.

View this post on Instagram

#FBF to our beautiful Anniversary Dinner at @iyasareberkeley. 1. Ika Poppo - marinated & grilled whole squid / tempura tentacles / mentaiko aioli 🦑 2. Iyasare Kakiyage - burdock root / yellow onion / sweet potato / shiitake / shungiku / bonito soy broth / black tiger shrimp 🍠 3. Ocean Umami - Hokkaido scallop / ikura / sea urchin / nori gel / ume / chive oil 🐚 4. Okonomiyaki - shrimp / scallop / squid / cabbage / pork belly / ginger / japanese bbq sauce / mayo 🍤 5. Yasai Yaki - sauteed cauliflower / hachimitsu miso. 🥦 6. Mekabetsu — fried brussels sprouts / black garlic oil / katsuobushi / lemon / shichimi 🍋 7. Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai Southern Beauty. @nanbu_bijin
A post shared by Nicole Ruiz Hudson, DipWSET (@nibblinggypsy) on Feb 28, 2020 at 1:30pm PST



Check out other wine and cheese date nights and posts here: 
  • A Wine & Cheese Night #MadeinFrance 
  • Valentine's Date Night with Broc Cellars Love Red & a Cheese Plate 
  • Champagne Dames, Lamiable Extra Brut, and a Hot Cheesy Mess  
  • Wine, Cheese, and Wine & Cheese Ice Cream from Humphry Slocombe, Domaine Carneros, and Laura Chenel 
  • Bringing Home Cahors with Clos d'Audhuy  
  • Champalou Vouvray Brut and a Very Lazy Cheese Night  
  • Bubbles, Books, & a Bloomy Rind: Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut with a Good Read and a Cheese Board  

This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.





We all have nights where you feel completely lazy and just want to chill out and not think too much. After a series of holiday festivities this past weekend, we were feeling just this way on Sunday night. I didn’t really feel like lifting a finger regarding dinner. Luckily, there were a bunch of cheeses in the fridge that needed our attention, as well as some other goodies, and a baguette. We took them all out and dinner was done!

To maintain a hint of the holiday vibe, I grabbed a bottle of bubbly to accompany our spread: Champalou Vouvray Brut Méthode Traditionnelle. We’ve enjoyed bottles from Champalou (not just the bubblies) on more than one occasion, as they offer good quality at wallet friendly price points, making them great choices regardless of how fancy (or unfancy) you’re feeling.


Vouvray Cheat Sheet

  • Grape: Chenin Blanc, aka Pineau de la Loire.  (5% can be of a many-named yet obscure grape called Orbois/Arbois/Menu Pineau is also allowed.) Chenin Blanc tends to show a lot of orchard fruit notes, particularly apples, as well as peaches, melon, and citrus fruits. It will also often have notes of beeswax, straw, and hints of ginger. It may sound weird, but wool and/or lanolin is a common marker for Chenin Blanc. It tends to have lots of fresh acidity (medium + to high). Versions from the Loire also often have notes of herbs and flowers, as well as a good amount of minerality.
  • Region: The Touraine section of France’s Loire Valley. It’s the most important white wine appellation of this sub-region. (It’s followed up closely by Savennieres, which is also Chenin based although the styles differ.)  The area covers a total of 2,210 hectares. The town of Vouvray a small and sits on the northern bank of the Loire River.
  • Style: Vouvray can be made in a full range of styles: sparkling and still. Wines are also made in the full range of sweetness levels: dry still (sec), off-dry/semi-dry (demi-sec), tendre kind of between the two, and sweet (doux). There are also versions that show the presence of botrytis, in particular those labeled moelleux, which are typically medium sweet. The tricky bit is that sweetness levels might or might not be on the label. The sparkling wines, which are made in the traditional method, can even come in different levels of fizz.
  • Climate:  The Loire Valley follows the Loire River. The Touraine portion is a bit inland, so it’s somewhat continental, but still gets some influence from the Atlantic Ocean that helps to moderate temperature. The variations in climate contributes to the range of styles available.
  • Soils: Vouvray is famous for its tuffeau soils, which is a very soft, porous limestone. It was formed about 90 million years ago during the Cretaceous period. It come in two basic forms: tuffeau blanc, which is chalkier and little firmer; and tuffeau jaune, which is softer and sandier. A lot of the regions beautiful châteaux were built from tuffeau blanc, and cellars were often built into the areas the rock was dug out from.
  • History: The region owes the development of its wine industry to Saint Martin, who founded the Abbey of Marmoutier just outside Tours in 372. The monks defined and refined the region’s viticulture on through the Middle Ages. The appellation of Vouvray, however, was not established until 1936.


Maps borrowed from WineFolly.com

 

The Wine


This particular bubbly version comes from Catherine and Didier Champalou. The couple both came from winemaking families, but they both felt a desire to start a project of their own, and so they established their domaine in 1983. Their daughter, Céline, has recently joined the operation as well after spending time working in vineyards around the world.

The family farms their 21 hectares sustainably, while incorporating aspects of organic and biodynamic farming. They plant cover crops in between rows to help increase microbiotic activity in the soils. They make wines in Vouvray’s full range of styles, always aiming at an elegant style that showcases the aromatics of the grape. All grapes are harvested by hand and they use indigenous yeasts for their fermentations.

When we opened this bottle, I picked notes of apple blossom, lightly glazed, flaky pastry, and hints of smoky minerality on the nose. On the palate there were green and gold apples, pears, Meyer lemons, beeswax, and hint of nuttiness. It was round and plump on the palate up front, then moved into a chalky salt-tinged mineral finish.  (On a previous tasting I wrote down similar tasting notes: "Creamy, gold and green apples, a hint nutty, caramel, a little herby cheesiness.  Rounded body, mellow, chalky.")  


Like I said, this was a particularly lazy evening, so I didn’t dwell on each pairing as I would typically do. However, what struck me was that it was a generally friendly companion to all of the cheeses. While some were better than others, there were no really bad matches. Goat cheese is often recommended pairing for Vouvray, and among the cheeses was the Ash-Rind Bouchette from Laura Chenel, which is a goat cheese (I received that one as a sample and is described here), and I did indeed really enjoy that combo.



Geeky Details


Details taken from the Champalou and Kermit Lynch websites.

Average Vine Age: 20 years average
Soils: clay and limestone
Vineyard: Grapes are farmed sustainably. They’re hand-harvested early in the morning to best preserve the quality of the fruit.
Winemaking: The must is fermented in stainless-steel tanks. The wine then ages on its lees prior to bottling. Once bottled, the natural sugar from the grapes creates the second fermentation. The bottles are aged sur lattes for two years before disgorgement. Dosage varies from vintage to vintage with a maximum residual sugar of about 3 grams. The Vouvray Brut "Méthode Traditionnelle" is a blending of three different vintages per cuvée.
Average price: $24. I believe I paid just a little bit under that at Whole Foods, which I think is a really Solid Buy.


You'll notice the very fancy cheeseboard – that would be a cutting board, because that's just how fancy I was feeling. Also, please note the friendly heart on the capsule!

*****
The rest of the French Winophiles are also exploring Vouvray this month – please check out their post below. If you happen to see this post early enough, join us for our Twitter chat on 12/21 at 8 am PT/ 11 am ET by following #Winophiles.
  • Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares “Pairing a School Assignment with a #Winophiles Project: Moqueca + Gautier Vouvray Argilex 2012”
  • Lynn at Savor the Harvest shares “Why I Chose This Wine as A Holiday Favorite”
  • Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “Creamy Clam Dip with a Sauvion Vouvray“
  • Lauren at The Swirling Dervish shares “Monmousseau Ammonite Vouvray: Gussying-Up an Ad Hoc Holiday Feast“
  • Gwendolyn at Wine Predator shares “Carême Organic Vouvray and Lunch at Chateau de Pray“
  • Jane at Always Ravenous shares “Vouvray with an Indian-Inspired Dinner”
  • Linda at My Full Wineglass shares “Still or sparkling, Versatile Vouvray Shows its Style”
  • David at Cooking Chat shares “Spicy Lentil Soup with Wine Pairing”
  • Susannah at Avvinare shares “Vouvray’s Singular Moelleux Wines”
  • Payal at Keep the Peas shares “A Birthday and a Vouvray”
  • Liz at What’s in That Bottle? shares “Va-Va-Va-Vouvray! Get to Know These White Wines from the Loire”
  • Jeff at Food Wine Click! shares “Vouvray Pairs with Cream”
  • Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles gives us The Multiple Expressions of Vouvray! #Winophiles


Additional Resources Used for this Post:

Loire Valley Wine
The Oxford Companion to Wine via JancisRobinson.com
Wine-Searcher.com
GuildSomm.com

This post contains affiliate links, including the following Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.






Happy Halloween! Today we have all kinds of treats, no ticks.

Wine, cheese, and ice cream are some of my very favorite treats.
Separately for sure.
Wine + Cheese: Well, obviously.
But Wine+Cheese+Ice Cream altogether?! 
It turns out the answer is a big ‘Hell Yeah!’




Over the weekend Greg and I had the chance to attend a media event hosted at Domaine Carneros to celebrate the launch of their new Wine & Cheese ice cream flavor, a collaboration between themselves, Humphry Slocombe, and Laura Chenel. All good things coming together!

Disclaimer Moment: Full disclosure, I started working with Domaine Carneros in a PR capacity earlier this year. However, all opinions in this post are my own and I have not been paid for this post. Moreover, I’ve been a big fan of their wines for a very long time. It also happens to be one of my favorite places to stop in Napa. It’s such a beautiful spot! In case you don’t believe me, here’s photographic evidence from a few of my visits over the years – all long before I began working with them. 


Top Left: My first trip was during my friend Dana's bachelorette weekend, several years ago now. Top Right: Goofing off with my mom and Greg, my dad was taking the picture. Bottom Left: With my friend Kristie Tacey, our friend Laura was taking the picture. Bottom Right: With a group of buds, including my bestie Anto, good friend Wei, and Greg.

Back to the ice cream! The Wine & Cheese Ice Cream was developed by Humphry Slocombe and features ice cream using Laura Chenel’s Original Chef’s Chevre with swirls of Domaine Carneros’ Pinot Noir. This is actually the third flavor collaboration between Humphry Slocombe and Domaine Carneros, the prior flavors being Cherry Fizz in 2018 and Rosé all Day Sorbet in 2017. This is the first time Laura Chenel’s cheeses have been a part of the mix.


We’ve encountered more than one skeptical look from people when we’ve told them about this flavor, but it was honestly so delicious. I love berry cheesecake ice cream and this is in that vein, but a little less sweet and more sophisticated. The flavors blend beautifully. The goat cheese creeps up on the finish in a pleasant way, so that its present and distinct without being overpowering. For it’s part, the Pinot almost reads a bit like an elegant cherry sorbet.

Let’s be honest, when it comes to oddball flavors, Humphry Slocombe has pretty rightly earned the benefit of the doubt. They have a long history of turning seemingly weird flavor combos into delicious ice cream. This one will be available for a limited time starting on November 4th at all Humphry Slocombe scoop shops, via Goldbelly, and at Domaine Carneros. I’m still dreaming about it, so I’m going to have to get my hands on some more.



The fun didn’t end there, though. We also had the chance to taste flights of Domaine Carneros’ wines with a selection of  Laura Chenel’s cheeses, and you know I love to mix and match to see what works.

Let’s start with the cheese.

 

The Cheese

Laura Chenel spent a decade working and studying in Europe, New York and the San Francisco Bay Area. When she eventually returned home to Sonoma County in the 1970’s, she'd grown very interested in natural foods. She also wanted her work to connect her to the land, so that she could be self-sufficient. She ultimately decided to buy goats and grew attached to them. Her herd grew and the cheese-making began.

Nowadays, the company also sources milk for their cheese, but they only work with family farms across the western US, with whom they maintain close, cooperative relationships. They were also the first creamery to earn LEED Gold Certification. They use 100% solar power and recycle their water. 




Chef’s Chevre

Their original. Creamy and tangy goodness.

 

Creamy Brie

A tangy twist on a classic favorite. This cheese has a thin, bloomy rind with the velvety texture we all love in a brie. The flavor is in line with what you’d expect from a brie as well, but with grass and citrus notes in the mix.


Crottin

A notch up in sophistication. This is a soft-ripened, aged goat cheese with a wrinkled, bloomy rind. A dense center is surrounded by a luxuriously creamy layer. The citrus and grass are still in these, but they're joined by mushroomy notes from the aging.


Ash Rind Buchette

I’m in love! This is a soft-ripened goat cheese that takes its inspiration from a traditional style from the Loire Valley made with Geotrichum candidum rinds. (Geotrichum candidum is a microorganism with both yeast and mold forms.)  This one is dusted with vegetable ash and aged for 8-12 days. It was tangy and earthy, with a chalky, dense center surrounded by a creamy, oozy layer just below the rind. I found this cheese to be surprisingly versatile for pairing among the wines as well.


How tempting are these cheeses?! They were as good as they look.

The Wines


Domaine Carneros was founded by the family behind Champagne Taittinger. Beginning in the late 70’s, Claude Taittinger searched for a long time to find an ideal location for a U.S. project. In 1987 he chose the spot the domaine is now on in Carneros, which marks the southern end of Napa and Sonoma. It holds the distinction of being the only AVA to straddle the two counties – Domaine Carneros is on the Napa side. It’s located north of San Pablo Bay, which brings fog and cool breezes to the area. The cooler climate makes Carneros ideal for the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes used in the traditional method sparkling wines Domaine Carneros is known for.




Domaine Carneros’ fairytale château pays homage to the 18th century Château de la Marquetterie, Taittinger’s home in Champagne. But they’re more than just a pretty face. In addition to being incredibly beautiful, Domaine Carneros is also very committed to sustainability. For example, in 2003, they installed the largest solar power system of any winery in the world. They’re also certified by Napa Green, the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance, and Fish Friendly Farming as well.

Eileen Crane is the Founding Winemaker and oversaw the development of the winery and vineyards. Today she is CEO, while Zak Miller is the Sparkling Winemaker and TJ Evans is the Pinot Noir Winemaker. I LOVE their bubbly wines, but today we’re going to look predominantly at their still Pinots, as they were the intended focus of the tasting. 
 




Winemaking notes bellow taken from tech sheets and the Domaine Carneros website. 

2017 Avant-Garde Pinot Noir ($29)

Winemaking Deets: The fruit for this wine is sourced from all five Domaine Carneros vineyards in Carneros. The wine is fermented in small open-topped tanks and then aged for 8 months in Burgundian French oak barrels from cooperages that are specially selected to complement the aroma and flavor profile of this wine.

Tasting Notes: Bright cherry and berry flavors, accented by  floral notes and baking spices. A very versatile Pinot.

Cheese Pairings: This was the intended pairing with the original chevre and it did work quite well. It was also solid with the Ash Rind Buchette.  I didn’t like it as much with the Brie. 



2016 Domaine Carneros Estate Pinot Noir ($44)

Winemaking Deets: This wine is also sourced from their five different Estate Vineyards. The grapes were gently de-stemmed, leaving many whole berries. A cold soak followed for five full days prior to fermentation, which took nine to twelve days in small open-topped vats. The fermenting must was punched down three times a day to heighten color and flavor development. After pressing off, the finished wine went directly into French Oak barrels where it rested for ten months until bottling.

Tasting Notes: Cranberry, dark berries, bramble, with hints of cola and spice.

Cheese Pairings: This was nice with the Crottin and the Brie. The Ash rind Brie brought out more fruit in the wine.



2016 Le Ciel Serein Pinot Noir ($59)

Winemaking Deets:  This site was selected for its rolling hills, diverse exposure, and exceptional soils. It has been carefully planted to a wide variety of Pinot Noir clones. Year after year it has proven itself by consistently delivering lush, aromatic, and exciting Pinot Noir. This edition features the vaunted “Dijon 667” clone (72%). Three other selections complete the blend, the “Pommard UCD-5” (9%), “Dijon 115” (6%), and “Dijon 777” (5%). The final blend spent 15 months in barrel.

Tasting Notes: Dark cherries, cranberry, sweet dark berries, smoke, and woodsy notes. A very elegant Pinot. Easy-drinking and elegant at the same time.

Cheese Pairing: This was excellent with the Ash Rind, one of the favorite pairings of the day. It intensified the ashy note in the cheese (in a good way), and the combination brought more fruit in the wine. 


 

2017 The Famous Gate Pinot Noir ($85)

Winemaking Deets: This wine is cultivated from 12 separate clonal selections in a wide variety of soils. In this iteration, there are three supporting characters. Of course, we have the Swan (81%), but it is complemented by Hanzell (7%), Pommard UCD-5 (5%), and Dijon 115 (4%). The grapes are gently de-stemmed, followed by a cold soak for five days to extract color and aromatics. They use small open topped vats and the cap was punched down three times daily. The wine was aged in barrel for 16 months, and the final blend was racked once before bottling without fining or filtration.

Tasting Notes: Tart berries, pomegranate, and herbs with hints of floral notes and spice. Elegant and balanced, with a more savory edge.

Cheese Pairing: Very nice with the Brie.




Now, I know I said I wasn’t going to focus on the bubblies, but here are a few quick pairings:

The Ultra Brut paired nicely with the goat cheese.
The Brut Rosé was nice with Brie.
Their Vermeil Demi-Sec was versatile and generally solid with all of the cheeses.




This is experience is not a part of their usual line up, but the winery does offer a Bubbles & Bites tasting, and they always have delicious cheese plates on offer in the tasting room. Details on these and other visit options here.

Now I'm just going to bombard you with a bunch of Greg's pretty pictures from the day.






This post contains affiliate links, including the following Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.


I recently had the opportunity to attend my first Wine Bloggers Conference.  (Well, actually it’s been a little over a month, but life has been crazy times around here for various reasons, which is why you haven’t heard from me in a while. )  To be honest, this was my first blogger conference of any kind. I was also lucky enough to receive a scholarship to attend. I didn’t really have to travel far–just a little ways up the road to Santa Rosa. Nonetheless, the scholarship made attending a lot easier! 

It was such a good time and I learned so much. It also gave me so much to think about in terms of how to improve this site, as well as NibblingGypsy.com. As you can probably imagine, there was also A LOT of wine!  And there was also some eating. Since this site is all about the pairings, I thought I’d share a few of my favorite love matches from the weekend.

Lunch at Hanna Winery




I joined in on an excursion to Hanna Winery at their Alexander Valley tasting room. (The view at the top is also of their vineyards.) The visit was lead by president and owner Christine Hanna and winemaker Jeff Hincliffe. The winery focuses predominantly on Bordeaux varietals, but as Jeff put it, they like exploring the “corners of the Bordeaux box.” So in addition to the usual suspects like Cabernet and Merlot, you’ll also find some of the more neglected members of the family (at least in California) like Malbec.






As part of the visit, was also had a beautifully paired lunch prepared by chef chef Heidi West. The whole lunch was really delicious, but I think my favorite pairing was the Hanna Russian River Chardonnay 2015 matched up a Baby Spinach Salad with Roasted Butternut Squash, Toasted Sliced Almonds, Pickled Red Onion and Warm Bacon Dressing.



Now, I know oaked Chardonnay often gets a bad wrap in some circles these days, but there are some dishes that it just complements sooooo well! Roasted chicken with root veggies, shellfish in buttery sauces, nutty flavors . . . all are amazing with Chards with a little bit of oak on them. For me the key is that they have to be in balance. If the wine is going to wear all that oak well, it’s going to need a plenty of freshness to carry it off.

The Hanna Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2015 (listed on their site at $29) hit that balance nicely. It had a mixture of  ripe tropical pineapple notes and nectarines, alongside the fresh crispy green apples and a fresh lemons. It was buttery and there were baking spices galore, but it had plenty of brightness to lift it all up. Christine and Jeff mentioned that they let the Chardonnay wines go through malolactic fermentation on their own (rather than inducing it to get started), and this allows them to get the creamy notes, without turning into full on butter popcorn flavor, and while still retaining acidity.



It was just magic with the salad. It amplified the bacon dressing and the nuttiness of the almonds, and worked really well with the roasted butternut squash and the cheese. A pleasant bitterness in the wine also came out with the greens. It also matched the weight of all the rich ingredients beautifully, while still maintaining the brightness. One delicious pairings!

Here are few more matches from the meal:





I’m planning to revisit one of their wines early next year, so stay tuned!



Pizza at Shone Farms


On the following evening I joined in on a small dinner hosted at Shone Farms. Shone Farms is a part of Santa Rosa Junior College’s Agriculture/Natural Resources Department. It’s 365 acres and provides students with opportunities to get hands-on training.

The evening was really chill and fun. We tossed our own pizzas which were then baked in the school’s wood-fire oven. I ended up making my pizza way, way too big. . . no regrets whatsoever.





Several Sonoma winemakers were there as well and of course it was a lot of fun to try all the wonderful wines with the pizzas and a selection of salads that were provided. 



I meant to pay attention to which wine I liked best with the pizza, however, I was having too much fun chatting with some of the conference organizers (be sure to check out Thea Dwelle's Luscious Lushes site),  as well as writer and professor Deborah Parker Wong, and  the team members and winemakers from Ramey Wine and Sidebar Cellars, and Blue Farm Wines.


Ramey is a very well regarded winery in Healdsburg working predominantly with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sidebar is their second label where they play with other varieties and make fun, bright  wines meant to be drunk young.

Blue Farm is the project of Anne Moller – Racke who started growing Pinot Noir in back of her Sonoma farmhouse. She then help her friend Timothy Mott start growing vines, and the two eventually teamed on expanding Blue Farm. Anne is also the president and winegrower at Donum Estate. Her Pinots were really beautiful.

 A lovely night all around!


Goat Cheese Love Match

One last quickie pairing. On the final night of the conference, there is a final dinner. Nothing really fancy going on, but I did like one pairing in particular–a simple goat encrusted goat cheese salad with the Miriam Alexandra Chenin Blanc California 2016. A mix of crispy acidity and stone fruits matched up nicely with creamy, tangy goat cheese.

 


There’s a lot of girl power amongst these wineries. It wasn’t my intention to spotlight wineries with a strong female presence, but just happened to notice the undercurrent, so go ladies!

Post-fire Wine Country Postscript

The conference was held in Santa Rosa, which might have you wondering about the status of the area after the fires. We also had Thanksgiving in Santa Rosa and were also up there recently to see friends, so we’ve had a chance to see a little bit. While signs of the fires are definitely visible, it should by no means be deterrent to visiting. The effects of the fire look more like a patchwork rather than something all consuming. The overwhelming majority of wineries are fully up and running and what they, as well as the rest of the businesses in the area,  really need is customers to come back and support them.

The fires hit right in the middle of the heaviest tourist season of the year, which these businesses all really rely on for income on even an average year. Support will be even more important in this recovery period. 



Here are a couple of slides with some data on the effects of the fires: 




So go visit and drink Sonoma and Napa–they’re eager to see you!
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Somm's Table 2017