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While visiting the area around Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG in the Veneto region, I had a chance to stop at Latteria Perenzin for some delicious cheeses and wine pairings.




Bring on the cheese! 


Today we’re going cheese tasting and it will take center stage . . .  but a few sips of wine along the way certainly won’t hurt 


Back in the fall of 2019, I had a chance to visit the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG region. I occasionally work with the region in a PR capacity and got the opportunity to go to get to know the region firsthand. (It turned out to be one of the last trips I took before the world shut down.) While the trip focused on wine, our little travel group got a nice change of pace when we stopped at Latteria Perenzin, in the town of San Pietro di Feletto, to get a taste of the region’s cheeses. And of course, cheese tasting presents a perfect opportunity to taste wines to pair with them!



Note: While I occasionally work with the Consorzio, I was not compensated for this post. All opinions are my own. 



Latteria Perenzin


Latteria Perenzin has been making cheese since 1898. It’s a family-owned operation that’s been going strong for five generations and is currently run by Emanuela Perenzin and her children, Erika and Matteo. The family makes goat, cow, and buffalo milk cheese using both non-organic and organic milk – they were actually among the pioneers of organic milk processing for cheese in Italy.


Image borrowed from Latteria Perenzin's website.


Making cheese is a serious business in this family, but if their website is any indicator, they also have a sense of humor about the family business: 


How many family dramas can be settled during 120 years of history? Just think about 5 generations of brothers, parents, sons and also grandparents who work together and try and imagine how many fights!

In the end, however, it doesn’t matter if brothers and sisters don’t agree with each other, nor does it matter if husband and wife part from each other, in our family what really matters is CHEESE and to keep going, in any case; grandpa Egidio used to say: “Cows don’t go on holidays, don’t you know?”




Emanuela met us to give us a tour of their facilities, which included lots of wonderful artifacts from the family’s history, as well as the production areas and rooms for aging cheese. 


These tours and tastings are available to the general public as well. You can also simply stop in for a tasting at their store and cafe. I highly recommend a visit if you’re ever in the region.







How to Taste Cheese


After our tour, it was time to taste! To start things off, Emanuela gave us a crash course on the proper way to taste cheese like a master. The way she showed us how to taste brought in as many senses as possible. 


  • It begins with sight – take a look and take it in.
  • Touch is next – you break off a piece of cheese and feel it between your finger to get an initial sense of its texture, consistency, and fat content.
  • Next, we brought in the sense of smell – you break off another small piece of cheese and smell it at the break, as this is where the smell will be strongest. 
  • Then we finally got to taste, taking into account both the flavors and textures on the palate. 


We sampled several delicious cheeses, which we’ll get to in a moment.



The Wines


As we moved through the cheese, we also got to sample them alongside a selection of three wines from the region, each representing three very different styles: sparkling, and red and white passito wines. Here are they are: 


Toni Doro Dono Brut Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG 




We were in the region after all, so of course, there had to be at least one Prosecco Superiore DOCG!  (For more background on this region, the heartland of Prosecco, see this post.) Toni Doro is a family-owned winery that has been handed down from father to son since the end of the 19th century.  This wine is made with 100% Glera grapes and is in the Brut style, so it was crisp with notes of citrus, bruised pears, flowers, and a minerally iron finish.


Find additional details on this wine here. 



Our next two wines were both Passito wines. These are dessert wines made from raisinated grapes – the drying process concentrates the flavors. For more background on this style of wine, check out this post.



Le Manzane Marzemino Colli Trevigiani Vino Passito IGT




Le Manzane is another family-owned operation. The company dates back to 1958 and it’s now in its third generation. They also happen to be located in San Pietro di Feletto, the same as the latteria. The winery makes Prosecco (in both the DOCG and DOC categories), as well as dry still wines, dessert wines, and spirits. This wine is made from 100% Marzemino, a red grape that’s predominantly grown in northern Italy. It showed notes of rich black cherry liqueur, dates, touches of pencil lead, as well as espresso bean crumble on the finish. Despite the rich flavor, this wine showed a surprising amount of freshness. 


Find additional details on this wine here.  



Cantina Produttori Fregona Piera Dolza Colli di Conegliano Torchiato di Fregona DOCG




This passito wine is the main product of Cantina Produttori Fregona, although they do also a dry still wine and grappa. Torchiato di Fregona is particular to the area, and their website lays out the history of the wine like this: 


It is said that in 1600 a winemaker was forced to harvest grapes even though they were not perfectly ripened due to an early frost. He harvested the grapes and placed them in the barn on trellises. The following spring he was surprised to find grapes that were very sweet but also hardened by the withering process. He then tried to press it several times and then put the must to rest in small barrels without much conviction. A year later, the first taste lit up the face of the farmer who understood that he had discovered an extraordinary wine.


This wine is made of a blend of  45% Glera, 25% Verdiso, and 30% Boschera. The wine showed complex notes of honey, apricots, peach,  flowers, dried tropical fruits, and candied citrus laced with spice. The wine had a velvety texture with acidity for lift. 


Find additional details on this wine here. 



The Cheese


Finally, let’s get to the cheeses we tried and how they fared with the wines. 


The cheeses above are described in the tasting notes below, following the order of the top row first, moving from left to right, then the bottom row in the same order.




Feletto a Latte Crudo


This is raw milk cheese.

To the touch: We could feel a little bit of oil on the skin of this smooth cheese

On the nose: Milky but a little pungent with a bit of acid, butter, and a touch of earthiness like buttered little mashed potatoes, and a bit of fresh grass.

On the palate: The cheese had a creamy texture with a little saltiness that lifts at the end. It had a slightly cooked aspect like butter that was just starting to brown. It had long-lasting flavor.


Wine pairings: The Tonidoro was a solid match. It was clean and refreshing, however,  the minerality becomes a bit steely – perhaps an extra-dry would be a little better, rounding it out



Capra al Fieno 


Goat cheese with a little herb on the rind.

To the touch: Firmer, crumbly texture  with a slight bit of oiliness, 

On the nose: This was less creamy than the last cheese, with more herbal and earthy components,  plus a little bit of barnyard funk.

On the palate: There was a little bit of sweetness, salt, mild acidity, mild hints of herbs, and cooked vegetal notes, but not bitter. It had less intense aromas on the palate than on the nose, but balanced combo, and has a long taste. 


Wine pairings: This cheese worked very nicely with the Marzemiano. It had the richness to match the cheese, and enough freshness to balance it out. The intensities matched well. This did not work well with the Brut – the wine turned bitter with the cheese.



Capra Ubriaco al Traminer 


A goat’s milk cheese. This is a “drunken” cheese that is buried in the marc of Traminer grapes. Drunken cheeses were first written about in 1534, but the technique became a necessity during wartime when cheesemakers needed to hide their cheese from invading soldiers. 


To the touch: The texture of this cheese was slightly tacky and less oily than the previous two.

On the nose: There was a fruity element like pineapples and dried apricots, aromas of cooked milk, caramel, and a woodsy pine note. 

On the palate: There was a little acidity, plus a salty element, particularly on the back end. It had a long and persistent finish. It had a crumbly texture in the mouth with little hints of crystalization (this is known as tyrosine crystals), but it also melts in the mouth. 


Wine pairings: The Marzemiano enhanced the saltiness and herbal notes in the cheese, and the wine’s fruitiness came to the forefront.



Bufala Ubriaco al Glera


A buffalo milk drunk cheese using the marc of Glera (aka the grape of Prosecco).  

To the touch: The cheese had a slightly tacky texture.

On the nose: There were woodsy aromas, along with notes of grappa, particularly near the rind, along with hints of light spice.

On the palate: This cheese had a creamy texture in the mouth that melted at the end. There were sweet and salty elements with a touch of pleasant bitterness that rises on the finish. Flavors were more intense near the rind,  where there were also hints of flowers on their stems. It was very complex with a bit of piquancy. 


Wine pairings: In this case, the cheese is stronger than the Marzemiano, although it became a little less intense while bringing out notes of light spice in the wine. It also worked with the Piera Dolza, although the combination brought out more herbal notes in the wine and the cheese.



San Pietro in Cera d’Api 


This 100% cow’s milk cheese is wrapped in beeswax on the outside. The beeswax adds perfume to the cheese, and it also changes the texture of the cheese by helping to retain humidity.

To the touch: The cheese had a crumbly texture and even looked a bit like a honeycomb.

On the nose: The aromas of beeswax definitely come out, as well as notes of caramel, honey, flowers, and yogurt

On the palate: The cheese was salty up front, as well as a little bit spicy. Flavors of candied pineapple came up in the middle of the palate, along with hints of flowers and candied citrus. 

It had a good amount of acidity on the finish. It had a crumbly, with some crystals, but eventually melted in the mouth.  


Wine pairings: I thought this was a perfect match with the Piera Dolza, and they just melded together in a beautiful way. They had matching intensities, and the combination brought out a little more saltiness in the cheese.



We also had two cheeses made by the students in a cheesemaking school run out of the dairy.   


Stracchino 

A fresh buffalo milk cheese with mild flavors and a soft creamy texture, with a hint of bitterness on the end. 


Wine pairings: It worked very with the Brut. The wine and cheese brought out each other’s freshness, and the wine evened out the bitter element in the cheese. The creaminess of the cheese and the texture of the wine also matched nicely, and the cheese brought out the minerality in the wine in a nice way. 


Blue Cheese 

This cheese was made with a blend of cow and goat milk. The cheese had some meaty and savory notes of salami and olives, as well as notes of dried fruits like goji berries. It was salty and tangy.  


Wine pairings: The Piera Dolza really changed in the pairing, with the cheese heightening its flavors of honey and marmalade in a lovely way. The Marzemino also worked, but the cheese dominated in the pairing.




 *****

The Italian Food, Wine, Travel blogging group (#ItalianFWT) is exploring Italian wine and cheese this month. Be sure to check out the rest of their posts:

  • Camilla is preparing "A Cheese Board Anchored on a Trio of Italian Cheeses + A Pinot Nero from Alto Adige" at Culinary Cam
  • Jennifer is having “Caprese Paired with Prosecco” at Vino Travels
  • Robin is tasting "Piave, Grana Padano and the wines of Lombardia" at Crushed Grape Chronicles
  • Deanna is drinking "Abbondanza Montelpuciano d'Abruzzo: A Way of Life" at Wineivore
  • Gwendolyn is trying an "Intriguing Italian Alpine Wine and Cheese: Foradori Bio Teroldego Paired with Their Tyrolean Grey Cow Cheese and Taleggio Mushroom Risotto" at Wine Predator
  • Wendy is having "A Perfect Start to a Perfect Evening" at A Day in the Life on the Farm

 A creamy sauce made with braised fennel, orange, pancetta, and shrimp is a decadent match for Duca di Dolle BRT Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut. Plus, discover #WhatsYourProseccoSuperioreStyle and win.

– SPONSORED POST –




It’s always exciting when I conceive of a pairing, and it turns out EVEN MORE delicious than I expected. 


I created this recipe for a partnership with Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG for an Instagram post to help spread the word about a recipe contest that’s currently underway –– scroll down for details. The pairing turned out so well that I just had to share it here as well. 


I’ve shared several posts in the past detailing the Prosecco quality pyramid, check out this post for more background. To put it simply though, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG is the original production zone and historical home of Prosecco. It’s a much, much smaller region than the wider Prosecco DOC area, which spans nine provinces in Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions. By comparison, wine under the Superiore DOCG zone must come from one of 15 small, specific communes. To make a long story short, over time, the Prosecco zone was widened so that producers could grow more grapes to keep up with demand, but the highest quality wine still comes from grapes grown in the steeply hilly terrain of the original, historical growing area. 


My task was to create a recipe to match Duca di Dolle BRT Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut. Many people might realize it, but Prosecco comes in a full range of sweetness levels ranging from Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, and Dry. Here are the details on the grams of residual sugar per liter  for each of these typologies: 


Extra Brut:  0 - 6 g/l

Brut: 0-12 g/l

Extra Dry: 12-17 g/l 

Dry: 17-32 g/l 


This wine is Brut which is intended to be a crowd-pleasing style that can work easily throughout a meal. When comparing it to traditional method sparkling wines, like Champagne, the main flavor difference is that they will not have the toasty, nutty, brioche notes that you’ll find in those wines. The production method used to make these wines, known as the Martinotti or Charmat method, instead highlights the aromatics of the grapes themselves, bringing out the fruit and floral notes, as well as light hints of herbal flavors. The Brut style will show off the more vibrant citrusy aspects of Glera, the grape of Prosecco,  along with lightly herbal notes, all will a fresh, crisp finish. 




Duca di Dolle 





Blend: 90% Glera, 5% Verdiso, 5% Perera  |  Average Price: $10 | Abv: 11.5%


Duca di Dolle is a young, sustainably-minded company owned by the Baccini family. All grapes are grown on their 100-hectare estate (25 hectares are dedicated to vineyards, and 75 are woodlands and meadows) located in Rolle, in the municipality of Cison di Valmarino. The estate also boasts a 16th-century monastery that has been converted to a relais to host guests. 


When we opened the Duca di Dolle BRT Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut we were greeted with aromas of white flowers, lemons, white peach, and minerals on the nose. The fresh white flowers and crisp fruit notes continued on the palate, and the minerality turned into pronounced salinity. It was a very elegant and refreshing wine.



Find additional details on this wine here.




The Pairing:  Creamy Fennel Pasta with Orange and Shrimp 


Several ideas wound themselves together when I was conceiving a pairing for this wine. In the past, I’ve had good luck pairing Prosecco Superiore DOCG with Pasta Carbonara, and the Brut style works particularly well with creamy dishes since the bright citrusy notes help to cut through the unctuous quality of these types of dishes. At the same time, I was thinking that the combination of fennel and herbal would highlight the fruity, floral, and herbal notes in the wine. If I brought in a seafood element, like shrimp, it might also serve to tease out more of the wine’s minerality. I decided to put it all together.


I took inspiration from a recipe my husband and I fell in love with a while ago for Fennel Braised in Cream from Gabrielle Hamilton’s Prune cookbook. Through this recipe, we discovered the delicious caramelized flavors that can come from fennel when it’s been cooked slowly and just how magically those flavors can work with cream. 


Putting it all of these ideas together, I decided to chop up the fennel and cook it stove-top and basically treated them like I would onions that were being caramelized, adding orange juice during the cooking process. Toward the end of cooking, I added Parmesan, cream, and shrimp then topped it all with pancetta, and tossed it all with fresh linguini. The results were incredibly decadent. We could not get enough and it was fabulous with the wine! The bright, crisp fruit and saline minerality cut right through the richness of the pasta dish and highlighted the citrus and herbal notes from the orange and fennel.   


Scroll down for the recipe. 



#WhatsYourProseccoSuperioreStyle Recipe Contest



As I alluded to earlier, I created this dish for an Instagram post promoting a contest Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG is having to promote the food friendliness and versatility of the wines, in addition to highlighting the different typologies, or categories. 


There are still a few more days left in the contest period, and it’s open for anyone in the US to participate. Simply put, all you have to do is create a recipe – it can be SUPER simple – and share it on Instagram. 


That’s the basic gist, now here are the detailed instructions: 


·  Post a recipe by 11/13/22 featuring wine from Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG – be sure to check the label! Static images and videos are both fine. The full recipe can be shared via the post, or the post can point to a blog post with the complete instructions.


·  Get to know the typologies. Wines should be from the Extra Brut, Brut Millesimato, or Extra Dry typologies, and let us know why you love that style. Find more details on each at www.prosecco.it/en .


·  A successful entry will: A successful entry will: 

1) Share information on the typology. 

2) Describe why the pairing works. 

3) If you use a glass in the shoot, please be sure it is an all purpose white wine glass – it’s best for releasing the wine’s aromas. 

4) Tag @proseccocv, the respective producer, and @alltheswirl. 

#proseccosuperiore

#proseccoelevated

#coneglianovaldobbiadene

#alltheswirl

#whatsyourproseccosuperiorestyle


MUST BE OVER 21 TO ENTER


A winner for each of the 3 typologies will be announced in December.


******









*****


Check out these posts for more on Prosecco:


  • Three Nights of Prosecco Holiday Fun: Carbonara, Sabering, Friends, with a Side of Pear Endive Spears
  • Cooking to the Wine: Sorelle Bronca Extra-Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG with Poached Chicken with Pears and Gorgonzola
  • The Wide World of Italian Bubblies
  • Wine Geek Thanksgiving
  • Around the World Pét-Nat Party!
  • Italian Wine 101 Cheat Sheet


A trip to Allegrini's Villa della Torre in Valpolicella outside Verona leaves us feeling like Renaissance nobility while sipping Valpolicella, Amarone, and other Veronese wines.


Let’s step into a mansion with beautiful rooms, gardens, and a hidden grotto, all surrounded by vines. Well, of course, you’ll need some wine to sip during your visit. Welcome to Allegrini’s Villa della Torre.

 

Back in 2018, Greg and I took a magical road trip around central and northern Italy. We visited many wineries, and I’ve been slowly sharing those experiences here over time. Every single one of our visits was wonderful, but perhaps none with more majestic vibes than Villa della Torre in the Valpolicella region, not far outside of Verona. Stepping into this space, you can easily imagine yourself as a part of the Veronese nobility attending a glamorous party during the Renaissance. Sampling the wines doesn’t hurt one bit. 


Note: Our visit was comped as I’m a member of the wine industry. No other compensation was received and all opinions are my own.

VALPOLICELLA CHEAT SHEET

Before jumping into details on our visit, let’s take a quick look at the region. It’s one of Italy’s most famous regions, and wine has been made here since the time of the ancient Greeks. Today wines span a wide gamut in styles and prices. Amarone is its most celebrated style today, but interestingly, the region was historically best known for sweet wines. 


Map borrowed from Winefolly.com

Location: Valpolicella is a red wine region in Veneto, in northeastern Italy. As mentioned, it’s an easy drive from Verona, which makes a great base point from which to explore the area. The region then stretches westwards towards Bardolino and Lake Garda. 


Sunset in Verona.

This is a generally hilly region, with vines growing in a series of valleys descending from the pre-alpine Lissini Mountains north of Verona and into the plains further south. As is often the case, the best wines tend to come from the hillier sections. Three valleys – Fumane, Marano, and Negrare – form the historical center of the region and make up the Classico zone. You’ll find this designated on labels as Valpolicella Classico DOC.  


Grapes: Valpolicella’s wines are traditionally blends. Here are 5 grapes to know, although a few others are permitted:


  • Corvina - This is the region’s star player and is regarded as both the finest and the most traditional. It must make up 45-95%. It’s known for its sour cherry flavor and light, smooth tannins. The name comes from the word corvo for “blackbird” or “crow.”

  • Corvinone - It was previously thought to be a clone of Corvina, but as implied by the name, the bunches and the grape are bigger. In 1993, genetic testing proved that it was in fact a distinct variety. It can replace up to 50% of the Corvina requirement. 

  • Rondinella - This grape is invited to the party because it’s reliable and prolific. It’s fairly resistant to diseases in the vineyard, so it can be useful, but it’s not particularly well-regarded for its quality. (Our guide at Allergrini, Elisa, mentioned that they’d phase it out if they could.) It must make up 5% to 30% of the blend. It can bring herbal and floral aromas to the blend. The name of the grape comes from the word for “swallow”.

  • Molinara - This grape has a fairly non-descript flavor profile, and while it’s still allowed, it’s no longer mandatory and it has fallen out of fashion. It does tend to have a lot of freshness and acidity, which can be useful, but the grape doesn’t have much structure otherwise, and it has a tendency to oxidize easily. The name comes from an old word for “flour mill.”
  • Oseleta - This is an indigenous grape that is starting to make a resurgence. It has lots of structure and tannins thanks to its very small, compact, thick-skinned berries. Continuing the theme of most of these grapes, the name means “little bird.” We were told that they used to be planted for birds to eat.

 

4 Key Styles: This is where things get interesting. One of the distinguishing features of the Valpolicella region is the wide range of styles made with the grapes, which range from light and easy drinking, to very deep and brooding. Let’s take them in ascending order of intensity:


  • Valpolicella DOC (Plus Classico and Superiore)- These tend to be light to medium-bodied with light tannins and the characteristic sour cherry flavor. They can be made in nouveau style, like Beaujolais, which will be similarly light and fruity, and can even take a light chill. In general, Valpolicellas tend to not be expensive, and they’re incredibly versatile for food pairing purposes. Without knowing anything else about a producer, look for wines from the "Classico" zone for your best bet on quality. The term “Superiore” requires that wines be aged for a minimum of one year in wood and that they reach a minimum alcohol level of 12%.
  • Valpolicella Ripasso DOC - These are sometimes referred to as “baby Amarones” because they sit in between Valpolicella and Amarone in weight and style. This style came into being in the late 20th century, so it really hasn’t been around all that long. It’s made by taking the pomace (grape skins and seeds) left over from a fermentation of recioto or Amarone and adding it to a baa tch of Valpolicella wines to macerate together. This helps to beef up the structure, complexity, flavor, and color of the wines by boosting the alcohol level, glycerine, tannins, and other phenolic compounds. It also takes on some the flavor characteristics of the dried grapes used in Amarone and recioto. Ripasso essentially means “re-pass,” for that second pass over those grape skins.

  • Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG – Grapes used for Amarone are first dried out for weeks of even months via the appassimento method, concentrating and intensifying the flavors of the juice. Most passito wines you find in Italy and elsewhere are dessert wines, but Amarone wines are vinified dry. These wines are deep, dark, intense, and complex. They can also be pricey – not surprising given the amount of work that goes into them. Given that these are the region’s most famous wine, it’s somewhat surprising that they didn’t emerge as a commercial style until the late 20th century. For a more in-depth look at the style and its history, check out this post. 

  • Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG – These wines are made in the exact same way as Amarone, but they’re generally sweet instead of dry. Winemakers halt the fermentation before all of the sugars are converted into alcohol. The wines have flavors of raisin, figs, dried cherry, and lots spices, but they can develop savory flavors over time. Similar to Amarone, they can age for a looong time. Interestingly, while there isn't a lot of recioto made these days, it is the style the region was historically best known for. 

Infographic borrowed from Winefolly.com


Wines that fall outside these regulations, fall under the appellation of Veronese IGT. 

 

It should be noted that white wines are also made in the area, but these fall under the various Soave appellations. 



A VISIT TO ALLEGRINI’S VILLA DELLA TORRE



The Allegrini family has been active in Fumane and Valpolicella Classica since the sixteenth century. The company as it is today is the legacy of Giovanni Allegrini, who has since passed it on to his son and daughter, Franco and Marilisa, along with Silvia, the daughter of his late son, Walter. It continues to be family-run today.


Allegrini's winemaking style blends together modern innovation and traditional methods. They were among the first to limit yields in their vineyards, and they do not use chemicals. 




They’ve built modern facilities in which to dry their grapes in a controlled environment. They also experiment with styles and techniques in their winemaking, and make quite a few wines that fall outside the prescribed DOC/G regulations, such as making single-varietal wines. 


Allegrini built a modern facility in which to dry their grapes for Amarone so as to preserve freshness and avoid botrytis and other molds. Corridors between the stacks allow for ideal ventilation, and the crates are designed to do the same.



Like the family, the house has a long history and is an excellent example of Italian Renaissance architecture. The house was commissioned by Giulio della Torre, an intellectual and humanist, and a member of a rich and powerful Venetian family. Construction began in 1490.









Nowadays, it is the base for Allgrini’s hospitality programs. Giovanni Allegrini purchased vineyards nearby starting in 1967, and Marilisa purchased the villa a little over a decade ago for its current use. This make complete sense, as in addition to being intriguing and beautiful, it is conveniently located near both their vineyards and winemaking facilities. They host parties and events at the villa, as well as cooking classes, and there are even bedrooms that have been restored and are available for overnight stays.



We arrived at the villa on a beautiful morning, before setting off with Elisa, our guide, to see the rest of the operation including their estate vineyards and some of their winemaking facilities. Afterward, we sat down to taste some of their wines accompanied by a selection of bites to sample alongside them. Once we’d wined and dined, we had the chance to explore the house and the grounds.

 

The fireplaces at Villa della Torre are key features that helped make the house famous. The gigantic sculptures are carved from individual, single blocks of stone.


 


 
The mysterious grotto at Villa della Torre may or may not have been used for pagan rituals that were popular during the Renaissance. 
 



For a more in depth, virtual tour of the villa, check out this article.




THE WINES


Tasting line-up at Allegrini



Valpolicella Classico 2017 


Blend: 70% Corvina, 30% Rodinella | Average Price: $15


Winemaking: The grapes undergo soft pressing, then fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Aging is carried out in steel, then wines spend 2 months in the bottle.

Find additional details here.  (Note that the wine has a different label in the US)


Tasting Notes: This wine showed aromas of bright sour cherry with light flowers and a hint of spice on the nose. Candied strawberries and raspberries joined on the palate. It was light, fresh and bright with very light tannins


Pairings: Drink as an apperitiff, pair with white meat, pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil, soup with vegetables, and even fish.



Palazzo della Torre Veronese 2017


Blend: Corvina 40%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 25%, Sangiovese 5% | Average Price: $18


Winemaking: This wine is basically their answer to a ripasso wine, but it uses a variation of the apassimemto technique. The wine is produced via the technique of double fermentation: most of the grapes are vinified at harvest, while the remaining part is left to partially dry (appassimento). In January the wine produced, blended with the crushed grapes, begins a second fermentation. It then ages in second use French oak barriques for 15 months, in large barrels for 2 months and is fine-tuned for 7 months in the bottle. It can evolve  for 10 to 12 years in bottle

Find additional details here.


Tasting Notes: The wine showed notes of licorice, hints of bitter herbs, bramble, and black cherry.  It was quite velvety on the palate, with hints of vanilla and spice, dark cherries, red plums, and white pepper.


Pairings: Pasta with ragu, carbonara, or all'amatriciana. Roast beef. Medium-aged cheeses. Sweet and sour flavors, mushrooms, pumpkin and Amarone risotto.



La Grola Veronese 2015 


Blend: 90% Corvina, 10% Osiletta | Average Price: $33


Winemaking: Meant to demonstrate how a modern wine with depth and structure can be made in the regions without the appassimento techniques. Can age a very long time. Fermentation takes place in steel tanks with periodic daily pumping over. The wine ages in second use French oak barrels for 16 months and in large Slavonian barrels for 2 months, followed by ageing in the bottle for 10 months

Find additional details here.


Tasting Notes: Pomegranate, sour cherry, juniper, fennel, red licorice, a hint of smoke, moist tobacco hit on the nose. All of these come back on the palate, but there is a mix of fresh and baked fruit notes, balsamic herbs, and a little spice. This is a more rustic style than the previous wines. 


Pairings: Medium-aged cheeses, duck, pheasant, game, and mushrooms.



La Poja Corvina Veronese 2012


Blend: 100% Corvina | Average Price: $116


The name of the wine means “the falcon.” 


Winemaking: This wine come from grapes planted at the top of the La Grola vineyard, from a limestone plot, overlooking Lake Garda a few kilometers away. The grapes are picked in the last phase of the harvest. After maceration on the skins for about 25 days, the wine ages in new barriques for 20 months and for 8 months in large Slavonian barrels, followed by bottle ageing for 10 months.

Find additional details here. 


Tasting Notes: Plush fruits, plum, juniper, cedar, a hint of mint, and spice rose from the glass on the nose. Rich pomegranates, red plums, raspberry sauce, hints of herbs, spice, and dusty cocoa joined on the palate. This wine had a lot of finesse and elegance. 


Pairings: Gamey meats, aged cheeses, or as an after-dinner drink with a cigar. 



La Poja Corvina Veronese 2010


Blend: 100% Corvina | Average Price: $98


Tasting Notes: This vintage showed lots of juniper, mint, and tobacco, as well as black cherry, dark plum, and spice on the nose. Cherry sauce, raspberry, licorice, chocolate, and balsamic herbs joined in on the palate. Luxurious and could still age longer. 


Pairings: In addition to those shared for the 2012, lamb, and could even work with mint jelly thanks to those aromas on the nose.



Amarone Classico 2014 


Blend: Corvina 45%, Corvinone 45%, Rondinella 5%, Oseleta 5% | Average Price: $80


Winemaking:  The best grapes, harvested in the upper hillsides, are left to dry in the drying facility for about 4 months. After a soft pressing, the wine ferments in steel tanks and ages in new barriques for 18 months, in large barrels for 7 months, and in the bottle for about 14 months. 

Find additional details here.


Tasting Notes: Complex aromas of tobacco, kirsch, currants, dried mint, and black licorice draw you in on the nose. These flavors are joined by dark chocolate, spices, and medicinal herbs on the palate. Very velvety. 


Pairings: Really good with aged cheeses, braised meats, polenta, bollito mixto with pearà sauce (see below), a typical Veronese sauce made with bone marrow, pepper, and broth.



Snacks accompanying our tasting at Allegrini.


Allegrini also has additional lines, as well as properties in Tuscany. We tasted some of their Poggio al Tesoro wines from Bolgheri, which were also very good, but I’m going to limit myself to the wines from Valpolicella here so that we’re not here all day.



MORE VALPOLICELLA PAIRINGS


Much like Pinot Noir or Gamay, Valpolicella is a good wine to grab when you have to pair one wine with lots of different foods at once or when you don’t what you’ll be having. Its light to moderate tannins and medium body allow it to work with everything from fish to meat.


For these very reasons, we ordered several bottles while we were in Verona with dinners that had multiple components or courses. It also never hurts that these wines tend to be reasonably priced. 


We enjoyed a bottle of Zenato Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2016 with Risotto all'Amarone and other delicious dishes at Antica Bottega del Vino. This is a MUST stop in Verona for winelovers. This spot's history dates back to the XVI century. The wine list is a giant tome and quite amazing to look through.


We had an incredible dinner at Locanda di Castelvecchio. We went here on Elisa's recommendation to enjoy bollito misto and roasted meats. Bollito misto is a feast of boiled meats that's typical of northern Italy. The meats are served with a selection of sauces alongside the meats. In Verona, pearà sauce is a key accompaniment to the dish and we fell in love with the stuff. It's made with bread crumbs, bone marrow, stock, olive oil and black pepper.  We enjoyed it with Tenuta Chiccheri Valpolicella Superiore 2011, which worked easily with all of the different cuts and styles of meat.

Valpolicella is also one of my favorite wines to have with pizza and it’s a great pick to go with meatballs and burgers too. 


Sausage pizza with Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2017


This Allegrini Valpolicella 2020 paired deliciously with a meatball sandwich on ciabatta with tomato sauce and mozzarella.


Also check out this 8 & $20 recipe for Lamb Chops with Mint Gremolata and Minty Mashed Peas I created a while back for Wine Spectator that pairs with Allegrini's Valpolicella. You can also find a few more details here. 


*****

For more posts related to our Italian road trip check out:

  • Exploring Castello di Brolio & On Location Pairings From the Home of Chianti Classico
  • Cooking to the Wine: Barone Ricasoli Brolio-Bettino Chianti Classico & an Italian Twist on Pulled Pork  
  • Classically Contratto: Beautiful Wines from Italy's Oldest Sparkling Wine House
  • Contratto Millesimato and Vitello Tonnato Two Ways
  • One Afternoon in Lugana at Podere Selva Capuzza 
  • The History of Amarone at Cantina Valpolicella Negrar, and Domìni Veneti Amarone Classico with Decadent, Braised Lamb Shanks    
  • The Sweet Side of ILatium Morini: Sette Dame Recioto di Soave Classico with an Old-Fashioned Strawberry Cake 
  • Cooking to the Wine: Pezzuoli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro with Antipasto Pizza 
  • Brunello, a Book, and a Boston Butt: Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino with Italian Braised Pork
  • An Afternoon at CastelGiocondo
  • Lunching and Tasting at Fattoria dei Barbi
  • Touring & Dining at Marchesi di Barolo 


*****


The rest of the Italian Food, Wine, and Travel (#ItalianFWT) blogging group is exploring the wines of Valpolicella this month. Check out the rest of their posts:

 

  • Cam of Culinary Adventures with Camilla is serving up Fagioli all’Uccelletto + Allegrini's 2019 Valpolicella
  • Cindy of Grape Experiences is Romancing the Menu: Valpolicella, Classic Lasagna and “Letters to Juliet”
  • Jennifer of Vino Travels shares Cooperatives In Valpolicella with Cantina di Soave
  • Nicole of Somm's Table adds Allegrini: Feeling Posh in Valpolicella at Villa della Torre.
  • Gwendolyn of Wine Predator...Gwendolyn Alley posts Wine Media Conference 2022: A Family Reunion in Italy with Ca’ dei Frati 2016 “Pietro dal Cero” Amarone della Valpolicella.
  • Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm writes Le Calendre Valpolicella; Romance is not just for special occasions.

 

Additional sources used for this post and extra reading:

  • Tavole della Valpolicella
  • Wine-searcher.com 
  • The Oxford Companion to Wine via jancisrobinson.com 
  • Vinepair.com: Valpolicella 101 
  • Wineanorak.com: The wines of Allegrini, Veneto, Italy 
  • Wineinsiders.com: Valpolicella 
  •  Tasteoftheseacoast.com: Marilisa Allegrini, Owner and Ambassador of Allegrini Estates
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Somm's Table 2017