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Perfect pairings from the other side of the equation.

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One recent evening I found myself staring into my pantry trying to figure out what to make for dinner. We’d been gone for a couple of weeks, so things were a little bare. However, I had a cold bottle of Saint Roch Vieilles Vignes and Côtes de Roussillon Blanc that needed a pairing.

A random packet of shrimp ramen kept staring at me. Yeah, ramen ––  like the type you kept around in college. Not even to be put remotely in the same class as ramen from a proper ramen shop, I can’t recall the last time I’d had one of these little blocks of noodles. Nonetheless, it seemed to be saying, “Don’t underestimate me! ” I’d tasted the wine and thought it would be a solid match for Asian flavors, as long as they weren’t too sweet or too spicy.

‘Alright then ramen, let’s have some fun.’

All the same, I thought we could do better than just pouring boiling water on the noodles, so I scrounged around for bits and pieces to create something a little more interesting. The results, which we’ll come back to in a moment, were not half bad. 



ROUSSILLON SNAPSHOT


The wine that was in search of a pairing is a white wine from the Roussillon region of France. This isn’t the first time we’ve stopped in Roussillon on this blog – I invite you to take a look at this post for a more in-depth look at the region, but here are some points to recap and summarize:
  •  Roussillon is located in southwestern France and it’s a part of the larger region of Occitanie. It was formerly part of the combined region of Languedoc-Roussillon, and you’ll most often still find sections of wine stores by that name. However, these two were combined with Midi-Pyrénées in 2016 to create the new administrative region of Occitanie. That’s all definitely a little confusing, just know it’s still a pretty recent change. 

Map courtesy of Sud de France.
  • It definitely has its own personality. Despite long being combined with other regions, this area is pretty distinctive. For one thing, since it is right up against the border with Spain, it’s heavily influenced by its culture, particularly that of Catalonia, as well as that of France. This can be seen in the language, the food, and even the grape varieties grown.

  • Mountains, ocean, and rivers, oh my. Roussillon is pretty small, but it has an extremely varied landscape. The overall area is shaped like an amphitheater that opens to the Mediterranean Sea to the East and is surrounded by three groups of mountains, or massifs: the Corbières to the North, the Pyrenees with the Mont Canigou to the West and the Albères to the South. There are also three major rivers: the Agly, the Têt and the Tech. All of this creates a lot of distinctive terroirs. 

  • Sustainability. Roussillon has the highest percentage of organic and biodynamic vineyards in France by acreage. Those ideal growing conditions makes working in these ways that much easier.
  • Bask in the fabulous Meditteranean climate of France’s sunniest region! It’s sunny and hot, with around 320 sunshine days per year, but the ocean and strong winds help keep things from getting too extreme and the vines disease free. The area also typically gets enough rain in late fall and winter to provide the grapes with enough water during the hot summers. It’s pretty ideal for growing grapes. 

  • It’s pretty tiny. The region represents 2% of the national production in volume.

  • Red, white, rosé, dessert –– all the types of wine are here. They produce stills wines, but for most of the last century that were best known for their dessert wines. They still produce at least 80% of France's Vins Doux Naturels (Fortified Sweet Wines). 
 These account for about 20% of the production in the region, with dry, still wines continuing to grow in importance.
  •  25 different grape varieties are grown in the region. Combine that with the varied terroirs and styles of production, and you get a really diverse range of wines despite the region’s small size.

  • Côtes du Roussillon, the AOP/AOC of today’s wine, spans over 118 communes in the Eastern Pyrenees (the western part of region is basically to mountainous for grape vines) and covers 12 000 acres. Wines under this category are always a blend of at least 2 grapes. Grapes grown are as follows.

    • Rosé and red wines: Black Carignan, Black Grenache, Lladoner Pelut, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre. Macabeu and grey Grenache (for rosés only). 
 
    • White wines: white and grey Grenache, Macabeu, Tourbat or Malvoisie du Roussillon, Roussanne, Marsanne, Vermentino.



THE WINE


Today’s wine is the Saint Roch Vieilles Vignes and Côtes de Roussillon Blanc 2017, an estate run by Jean-Marc and Eliane Lafage. The Lefage’s also own Domaine Lafage, where they farm 160 hectares of vines located just south of Perpignan, the capital of French Catalonia. With Spain so close, Jean-Marc also consults on several projects on the other side of the border.




Jean-Marc decided to buy Chateau Saint Roch with his father in mind. Jean-Marc comes from a family of seven generations of winemakers, and the first five generations had always lived in Maury. His father, in particular, loved this region and always wanted to live in a farmhouse in the middle of the vineyards (as opposed to in town) of Maury. Jean-Marc as well grew up, worked his first vineyard, and made his first wine there. Clearly, there was a lot of sentimentalities attached to this village, so, when an opportunity presented itself to buy the Chateau Saint Roch property, he jumped on it.

Both of the Lafage properties are family-run with lots of different, experimental cuvées. On the Domaine Lafage site, Jean-Marc describes the dynamic:  “My focus is on the vineyards, and Eliane is queen of the cellar, but we decide on the blends together.” He later adds, “My mother and father are still actively involved in greeting our customers, and in running the cellar door, and while Eliane and I take the most important decisions, it is really important to emphasize that we have a fantastic team who work with us, rooted in the culture of the Roussillon, and are devoted our success. Our children Léa and Nicolas, even though they are still very young, have already started to show some interest in the life of the property.”

Maury has historically been known for its Vins Doux Naturels, but this is a still, dry wine made predominantly of Grenache Blanc, along with some Roussanne. On the nose, a fruit bowl of aromas drew me in with notes of white peach, apricots, pears, green melon, grapefruit, and flowers. On the palate, the rounder fruit notes like white peach, tangerine, and ripe lemons hit up front. Then things moved into more puckery citrus notes like lime and grapefruit, along with a few sprigs of herbs, finally moving into a lightly minerally finish. It’s medium-bodied, starting off round and finishing quite crisp, and has medium acidity that remains bright.

It’s really a very sunshiny wine that would be perfect for sipping outside on sunny days, but it also seemed like it would be very food-friendly, fitting many different scenarios at the table.


THE PAIRING


We already know this particular bottle was destined for an off-beat ramen pairing. Rather than make a standard ramen soup though, I decided to make a stir-fry. I had shrimp in the freezer, and since we had “shrimp-flavored” ramen, they were the first item I grabbed to add to the mix. I also gathered up bacon, carrots I turned into zoodles, peas, corn, spinach. Soba noodle soup base combined with the shrimp flavor packet created the flavoring. Some fried eggs and Togarashi topped things off.




It was just a big, crazy mix of bits and pieces. This combination (other than the number of vegetables) might seem like high/drunk people food, but you know, it was super tasty. The wine made a refreshing complement to the food, going down super easy!

I might have to start stocking ramen packets more regularly.




For more ideas for playing with ramen see:
  • Ramen Hacks: 30+ Easy Ways to Upgrade Your Instant Noodles 
  • 14 instant ramen hacks that will make it taste even better  



OTHER POSSIBILITIES


The winery recommends this wine to enjoy during relaxing moments with your friends, as an aperitif, or with fish, shellfish, and white meats. Sushi is particularly recommended and I can absolutely see that working.

The last time I explored a white wine from Roussillon, we paired it with salmon and I think this wine would work quite well there too, and vice versa.


Find more pairing suggestions at Wines of Roussillon.


THE GEEKY DETAILS


Taken from the tech sheets on the winery and distributor's websites.

Blend: Grenache Blanc 80%, Roussanne 20%
Average Age of Vines: 50 years
Farming: Practicing organic, dry farmed, hand-harvested
Soil: Clay limestone, gravel
Altitude: 200 meters
Winemaking: Fermented in tank. Cold skin maceration. Fermentation at 16 °.
Aging: 5 months in concrete, with a small percentage aged in French oak demi-muids


MONEY TALK


I bought this for $17.99 on Wine.com and I say have at it! I’d say that’s a very Solid Value, and the fact everything is done by hand and the land is farmed conscientiously just about pushes this into Overachiever territory.  (Also, find it elsewhere on Wine Searcher.)


*****

Ramen
dinner
Servings: 2
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson
Print
Shrimp Ramen Stir-fry with Bacon and Eggs

Shrimp Ramen Stir-fry with Bacon and Eggs

Prep Time: 15 MCooking Time: 20 MTotal Time: 35 M
This is really a non-recipe, so take this more as guidelines. Specific quantities are not needed. It’s all to your taste and feel free to add or take away items as desired.

Ingredients:

  • A packet of shrimp ramen
  • Bacon
  • Spiralized carrots
  • Peas
  • Corn
  • Soba soup base (This has bonito in the mix, which I thought worked nicely with the shrimp flavors, but you can also substitute in soy sauce.)
  • Peanut oil or toasted sesame oil
  • Shrimp
  • Spinach
  • Eggs
  • Togarashi or sriracha, for serving

Instructions:

  1. Boil water. Pour over the ramen noodles to soak until just reconstituted – about 2 minutes. Drain and aside.
  2. Cook bacon in a large pan until browned on both sides. Remove the bacon and set aside.
  3. Add the ramen noodles and the spiralized carrots to the pan with the bacon fat and toss to coat. Add the peas, corn, soba soup base, and a light drizzle of the peanut oil. Toss all to combine, then add the shrimp and the spinach and continue cooking until the shrimp is opaque and cooked through and the spinach is wilted.
  4. Meanwhile, fry eggs in a separate pan.
  5. Tear up the bacon into small pieces and toss in with the noodles.
  6. Serve noodles in bowls, topped with fried eggs, with Togarashi chili powder or sriracha sauce on the side for a kick.
https://www.sommstable.com/2020/07/fun-with-ramen-saint-roch-cotes-du-roussillon-blanc.html
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Created using The Recipes Generator

Photo credit on all food and wine pics: Greg Hudson.


Check out these additional posts related to Roussillon:
  • Cooking to the Wine: Domaine de Majas Côtes Catalanes Blanc with Butter Poached Salmon and White Asparagus
  • Cooking to the Wine: Gérard Bertrand Grand Terroir Tautavel Grenache-Syrah-Carignan with Saucy Lamb Loin Chops 
  • 2 oz Pours: 16 French Wine Values 

*****
The rest of the French Winophiles Blogging Group is exploring the wines of Roussillon. If you see this post early enough, feel free to  join our Twitter chat on Saturday, July 18th. You can follow us using the hashtag #Winophiles at 8 am PDT, 11 am EDT.  Lynn from Savor the Harvest is hosting this month, check out her preview post here.

And here are the rest of the group's offerings: 
  • Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm pairs American Bay Scallops with French Roussillon Blanc.
  • Cindy at Grape Experiences shares A Perfect Al Fresco Lunch in Roussillon: Domaine d’Aussières Chardonnay 2018 and Creamy Crab Quiche.
  • Jeff from Food Wine Click! presents Banyuls Pet-Nat with Treats à La Buvette.
  • Allison and Chris from ADVineTURES discuss Domaine Lafage Cuvée Centenaire: The Essence of Rousillon.
  • Melanie at Wining With Mel tells us about her Adventures in Roussillon White Wines.
  • Linda from My Full Wine Glass explains A Roussillon Blanc Turns My Thoughts Toward Chicken.
  • Gwendolyn at Wine Predator give us Testimony to Potential: Chapoutier’s Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Blanc Paired with Halibut.
  • Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles talks about Snow Capped Pyrenees to the Mediterranean Sea – Exploring the Stunning and Diverse Roussillon Wine Region.
  • Cathie from Side Hustle Wino shares Why You Will Love the White Wines of Roussillon.
  • Lauren at The Swirling Dervish tells us about Biodynamics and the Butterfly Effect: A Labor of Love in Roussillon.
  • Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla offers A Summer Pairing: Salade Niçoise + Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Blanc 2017.
  • Susannah from Avvinare pours Muscat de Rivesaltes – A Marvel from Roussillon.
  • Katrina from Corkscrew Concierge hosts An Exploration of Roussillon White Wines.
  • Terri at Our Good Life writes about Summer Love and White Wines from Roussillon.
  • Payal at Keep the Peas whips up Northern Thai Food and a Roussillon Muscat.
  • Here at Somm's Table we're having Fun with Ramen & Saint-Roch Cotes du Roussillon Vieilles Vignes Blanc.
  • And host Lynn of Savor the Harvest offers Distinctive Roussillon White Wines for your Buy List.

Additional sources used for this post:  
Wines of Roussillon  
The Oxford Companion to wine via JancisRobinson.com  
Sud de France  
Wine-Searcher  


This post contains affiliate links, including these Amazon links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.
Gérard Bertrand Grand Terroir Tautavel Grenache-Syrah-Carignan with Saucy Lamb Loin Chops


Several years ago now, when I  was still living in New York and working at Wine Spectator, I had the great pleasure of attending a media event at which I had the chance to meet Gérard Bertrand. 

Me with Gérard Bertrand along with my friends/ex-coworkers Gillian Sciaretta and Emma Balter, circa March, 2015..

He was very charming, quite handsome, and had a calm aura about him. He’s also very, very tall. More importantly, it was also very clear that he was also quite passionate and driven about his wines and the care of the land his vineyards are on. He had just released his book Wine, Moon, and Stars, and I was gifted a signed copy as a guest of the event. 






I’ve kept it since, always intending to read it — there were cross-country moves, work, life, blah, blah, blah. When the Winophiles blogging group dedicated this month to Gérard Bertrand’s wines, I decided it was the perfect time to grab the book off the shelf.

In the book, Bertrand takes you through his early years when he had the chance to grow up amongst the vines and learn from his father Georges. He goes onto to describe his time as a rugby player, eventually coming back to run the family vineyards whole-heartedly. He ultimately made the decision to convert his operation to biodynamics (we’ve talked a lot about biodynamics lately, see this post for an explanation), as he quickly saw a big difference amongst the vines grown in this way. All of his estates in Languedoc-Roussillon (now a part of the Occitanie) are now farmed using biodynamic practices (some might still be in transition toward certification). This is no small feat — Bertrand’s is a large operation.
According to this article in Forbes, he’s now the second largest importer of French wine into the U.S.  I think this is a case of a bigger producer who is trying to do things right.

Admittedly, the writing meanders a bit, but the passion for the lands, the wine, and a general joie de viviré really come through in the pages. It’s clear he finds something deeper in a beautiful wine beyond it just being an enjoyable beverage:

Sometimes, the great flux of emotions leads to a mystical experience. You don’t need faith to get there, but it certainly helps. If you reach the message, you will experience the inner peace, serenity, love, and harmony. You are ready to commune with the spirit of the wine, to understand its very essence. Inevitably it takes time and practice to do this, along with a certain level of knowledge. But the most important thing is the capacity to be delighted. (p. 83)

Definitely lofty, but I must say that I’ve had a few experiences like this where a wine has moved me on this deeper transcendent level and it is special. I also have to admit that studying wine has helped me to better appreciate it. However,  I love that he boils it down to delight as the most important factor. In the end all you really need is to want to be delighted and be open to it. If you are, delight can happen everyday.


Gerard Bertrand Clos d'Ora in front of several of his other bottlings.
A few of the beautiful, higher end Gérard Bertrand wines I got to try at the event, including the Clos d'Ora which is among his top end wines. This wine is a  blends of Carignan, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Grenache.
The Aigle Royal Pinot  Noir comes from the Haute Vallée de l'Aude winemaking region, which ranges between 250 and 500 metresabove sea leve. Pinot, which isn't a typical grape for this area, is grown at the highest reaches of the estate.

 

THE WINE & PAIRING


On that note, let’s move on to the delights of eating and drinking. Bertrand makes it very clear that he values the combination of the two together:

As a true lover of food and wine, I love matching one with the other, particularly through studying recipes. The interaction of the two needs to be total, one building on the other through osmosis to create a symphony. (p. 81)

I couldn’t agree more! This interaction is what keeps me going!





On this occasion, Greg and I opened a bottle of Gérard Bertrand Cotes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel Grand Terroir 2015. Bertrand says Tautavel has a “special power.” It’s is in the hilly, northern portion of Roussillon, situated between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean sea. He says:

Tautavel is a wonderful terroir that is translated through the grenache noir, carignan and syrah that grow upon it. It is the very paucity of these soils that is the source of its power. Meager schist aboundsand forces the roots of the vines to reach down deep into the earth. It is in the balance between that which is visible–the plant, the leaves, the fruit–and that which is invisible–it’s deep root system burrowing down through the rocks in the hunt for the slightest hint of water–that the vine finds its best expression. (p. 177)

Quick tangent: The region also has a claim to fame beyond wine. Starting in 1961, over 120 human fossils were discovered in the Arago Cave. These turned out to be from between 690,000 and 300,000 years old. This lead to one of the oldest examples of homo erectus, known as Tautavel Man, thought to be 450,000 years old.

Back to the wine, on the day we opened it, the wine showed notes of raspberry and herbs, mostly garrigue with a hint of menthol on the nose. On the palate, the raspberries were ripe, with black currants, and blackberry. The garrigue came back, with some notes of rosemary, and black pepper on the finish. Greg also got hints of sage and licorice. There was also notes of pencil lead, violets, and spice that became more integrated with air and the quality of the fruit was very pure. It had medium acidity that was nonetheless pretty fresh, and had chalky tannins.

The wine was polished and classic. We decided to keep the pairing pretty classic as well: seared lamb chop loins seasoned with herbs and black pepper to resonate with these notes in the wine. A simple gravy topped things off. As accompaniment, I made Trader Joe’s Harvest Grains prepared with lamb stock. The final component was roasted zucchini prepared simply tossed in olive oil with salt, pepper, and some simple seasoning in the oven at 425°F for about 25 minutes.




Lamb loin chops in a pan, being prepped, with herbs and garlic.


The wine and lamb made a beautiful pair. Greg noted that the spice notes in the wine came out more with the food. The wine really highlighted the lamb meat as well as the black pepper and rosemary notes in both the food and the wine.


Gérard Bertrand Grand Terroir Tautavel Grenache-Syrah-Carignan with Saucy Lamb Loin Chops.

OTHER POSSIBILITIES


On their website, they recommend serving this wine with grilled peppers, pork with
caramel sauce, rabbit with prune or matured cheeses.

Once upon a time, I paired Gérard Bertrand’s Fitou in an 8 & $20 for WineSpectator.com with Lamb Kebabs and an Israeli Couscous Salad. I’m sure this wine would make a great pairing as well. I also featured a Bertrand wine in 16 French Wine Values.

For other wine options, pick medium to full bodied reds with herbal notes. 


For more red wines from Languedoc-Roussillon and ideas on how to pair them, check out: 
Kicking Off 2018 with Corbières and Minervois 

 

THE GEEKY DETAILS


Taken from the tech sheet.

GRAPE VARIETIES: Grenache, Syrah and Carignan

WINEMAKER’S NOTES: 
Most of the grapes are picked by hand. They are sorted twice, on the
vine and then in the winery.
Vinification is traditional and the grapes are de‐stemmed prior to
maceration, which lasts between three and four weeks. Pressing is then
carried out, followed by malolactic fermentation.
33% of the wine is matured in barrels for 9 months, with the rest left in
vats.


Alch: 15%



MONEY TALK


I’ve always appreciated that Gérard Bertrand wines tend to provide good price to quality ratio, regardless of price point – I buy them somewhat regularly for this reason. This one is definitely fits right into this description. At $16.99 (purchased on Wine.com), this wine is definitely an Overachiever.




Our year got off to a really quiet start. Greg was wrestling a flu, which kept us grounded and away from New Year festivities. Getting sick is unusual for him. Even more unusual is the fact that I didn’t catch a full-blown version as well. Sick or not, we still had ourselves some tasty eats to create cozy evenings in, even if we weren’t in tip top shape.

We happened to have some bottles from the Languedoc to keep us company the first week of 2018. The wines were sent as samples for this month’s look at Languedoc with the French Winophiles. Specifically, we’re looking at Corbières and Minervois. (While the wines were sent as samples, all opinions are my own.)

The Languedoc is a great region. It’s a go-to for us here at home, as well as when dining out. The region borders the Mediterranean in the south of France. It is a large and diverse region. On the one hand, it has a lot in common with the Rhône and Provence, which also border the Mediterranean. On the other hand, you’re likely to find a wider selection of grapes here–definitely Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault, as well as many of the big international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and quite a few others.

There’s a lot of innovation in the area and there are many good values to be found. However, there’s a lot of schlock to wade through as well. It’s helpful to have some key names to fall back on. Corbières and Minervois are two appellations that have established their reputation for quality, making it a bit more likely that you're getting a solid option when you see these names on the bottle.



Sentinelle de Massiac Minervois 2015 with Lentil Soup 

We started the year with the Minervois. There’s a tradition in my family of having lentil soup on New Year’s Day. Greg’s family has a similar one of starting the year with black-eyed peas and collard greens. Last year I elaborated on our fam’s tradition and wrote up a version of the recipe on Nibbling Gypsy. I made it again this year, although I swapped in some leftover butternut squash in for the potatoes. Lentils are very typical of Southern France, so I figured this was a good opportunity to open one of the bottles.

Minervois gets it name from the village of Minerve and it got its appellation status in 1985. Since then the wines have continued to improve over time thanks to lots of investments into winery equipment and better vineyard management. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, which must collectively make up at least 60% of the blend in Minervois. (Mourvèdre and Syrah must account for at least 20% of the blend.) Carignan and Cinsaut can make up the remainder.



I could only find a bit of info on the Sentinelle de Massiac Minervois 2015, but apparently it’s certified organic and is made up of about ⅔ Syrah, with about a ⅓ Carignan. (I’m not certain if that breakdown carries over for every vintage.)  The Chateau traces its origins back to the Roman Empire, but the estate was burned to the ground during the French Revolution. Bernard Bourdouresques and his family took over and revived the estate.

The wine had notes of dark, brambly forest fruits–blackberries and raspberries–with a little red plum and baking spice. It ended up making a really nice match for the soup. Despite the dark fruits, it was pretty medium-bodied, so it didn’t overpower the soup, and the brambly, herbal qualities matched up nicely with the same herbs in the soup. It also opened up nicely with time (so decant it if you have time) and made for a really nice, easy drinking weeknight wine. (WineSearcher.com has the average price on this listed at $13.)



Domaine de Fontsainte Corbières 2016 with Lamb and Saucy Mushrooms

A few days later we had a chance to get into the Corbières. I made a giant boneless lamb leg that ended up being for just the two of us–thanks to sickness and all. (The recipe for this one will be coming soon to Nibbling Gypsy, but this reworking could be done with just about any roast.) It was obviously way more than two people could eat, so we had TONS of leftovers–and I love a leftover makeover. A few pretty simple twists made a whole new feast.

I’d made gravy to go with the lamb. I also had some mushrooms, which I sautéed simply with garlic and thyme in olive oil. I then added the leftover gravy (you can thin this out with stock or wine if desired) to make saucy mushrooms. I also made cauliflower steaks, which I find to be really beautiful. This recipe on AllRecipes.com basically captures what I did, although I roasted them at 425°F, since I like the cauliflower to be a little more toasty. I also added thyme to the cauliflower as well, as I figured there would be likely to be herbal notes to pick up in the wine.

To finish things off, I simply sliced the lamb leg into thick pieces that I seared in a pan to reheat them. I then served the lamb along with the cauliflower steaks and topped it all with the mushrooms.





Corbières is just south of Minervois in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountain. The soils of the area are largely based on schist and it is known for making rich wines. It’s a large area and has varied terroirs. In Corbières AOC, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache must make up at least half the blend in the red wines. Carignan, which was once dominant, must now not make up more than half.

Photo Credit on this and the lamb pictures: Greg Hudson.

The Domaine de Fontsainte Corbières 2016 comes from a spot near Boutenac in an area known as “The Golden Crescent” that is known for being one the sunniest spots in the region. The vineyards have a south-southeast exposure and are protected from harsh winds be a large forest. At the same time, sea breezes help the grapes maintain a fresh balance. The Romans surrounding a thermal spring built the first vineyards on the estate. The spring was later named after Saint Siméon, a local patron saint. So Fontsainte is the “saint’s fountain.” The Laboucarié’s family has been making wine here since the seventeenth century and developed a reputation for quality.

Here are some quick additional details taken from Kermit Lynch’s (their importer) website:

• 60% Carignan, 30% Grenache Noir, 10% Syrah   
• Grenache and Syrah are de-stemmed by hand; Carignan goes through carbonic maceration
• Silica, clay, limestone (gravelly with large galets, or rounded stones)
• Grapes are hand harvested
• Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled vats for 14 days
• Wine rests for 6 months before being racked into barrel
• Wine aged for 6 months in French oak barrels


Similar to the Minervois, this Corbières had brambly forest fruits with thyme and other herbs. Here the fruits were a bit darker though with more blackberries than raspberries, and some dark plums and spice. (This somewhat surprising, since the Minervois had more Syrah.) It was plush, without being overbearing, and particularly velvety once it had a chance to open up. It was perfect with the lamb and it really picked up the herbal and spice notes in the food. I think this is an excellent value find–WinerSearcher.com has the average price listed at $14.

I think was a bit partial to the Corbières, but both of these wines would make great House Wines–perfect for everyday drinking.


*****

As I mentioned, the rest of the French Winophiles are also exploring Corbières and Minervois this month. Be sure to check out their posts as well, as there are sure to be quite a few delicious things on the menu.


  • Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm: A Classic Pairing; Revisiting Languedoc
  • Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla: Conquering Cassoulet Alongside the 2014 Minervois le Chateau d’Albas 
  • Martin from ENOFYLZ Wine Blog: What Grows Together, Goes Together – Slow Cooker Cassoulet Paired With Affordable Occitanie Wines #Winophiles 
  • Michelle from Rockin Red Blog: Spending January in Languedoc Drinking Wine and Eating Cassoulet 
  •  Jeff from FoodWineClick: Let’s Make Occitanie and Cassoulet Household Words 
  • Jane from Always Ravenous: Hearty Red Wines of Corbières and Minervois Paired with Cassoulet 
  • Lynn from Savor the Harvest: Corbières and Minervois – Where Syrah and Carignan Shine 
  • David from Cooking Chat: Chicken Cassoulet Paired with Languedoc Wine 
  • Rupal from Journeys of a Syrah Queen: Staying Warm the French Way – Cassoulet and Wine 
  • Liz from What’s in that Bottle: Let’s Learn About Wines from Languedoc #Winophiles 
  • Amber from Napa Food and Vine: A Tale of Two Wines 
  • Susannah from Avvinare: Mas Du Bousquet - An Unexpected Find From Minervois 
  • Gwendolyn from Wine Predator: Cassoulet Domesticates the Wild Wines of Minervois and Corbières 
  • Jill from L’Occasion: Eat, Drink, Travel the South of France: Minervois and Corbières 
  • And at The Swirling Dervish: Warming Up with the Wines of Corbières and Minervois


Here are a few more 8 & 20 recipes featuring Languedoc wines:

French Onion Soup and Filet Mignon With Onion Sauce
Lamb Kebabs With Israeli Couscous Salad
Beet Risotto with Herbed Chicken Tenders





Additional resources used for this post:  

WineSearcher.com
JancisRobison.com


I’m always looking for the wine deals; good wines at a good price. It definitely helps to know where to look and Languedoc-Roussillon is definitely one of my go-to regions for wine values.

However, I have to admit that I typically go for the reds and rosés, and usually more Languedoc than Roussillon. So when the French Winophiles decided to explore this region this month, I thought I’d buck my own tendencies and get a white wine from Roussillon. (I recently covered a few other wines from the Languedoc in 2 oz Pours: 16 French Wine Values , as well as a couple I had on a recent trip to Chicago here.)

Languedoc and Roussillon are lumped together as a wine region, but these were once independent regions and are actually pretty different in character. (Actually, now the entire region also falls under the larger department of Occitainie, which also encompasses the Midi-Pyrénées in the South West.) Languedoc’s identity is essentially French, whereas Roussillon has had a lot of Spanish influence. Between the 13th and 17th centuries it was ruled by Majorca and by Aragón, and there is a lot Catalan culture as the region is located on the eastern side of the Pyrenees. Spain’s Cataluña is just on the other side of the mountain range.

That brings up another difference; Languedoc is mostly coastal and flat, whereas Roussillon is pretty mountainous, as you can probably guess. They also have a really sunny climate with an average of 325 days' sunshine a year and frequent winds, according to Jancis and the Oxford Companion. (At the same time, a lot of the Pyrenees remain snow covered throughout the summer.) Despite all that sun, this region was slow to embrace modernization, even temperature control techniques that can really protect the wine against the effects of all that heat. They’re now making up for lost time and pushing ahead.

Roussillon was traditionally really well known for its dessert wines–vins doux naturels–particularly those from Banyuls and Rivesaltes. Like a lot of the rest of Southern France, the reds are dominated by Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre–the S and M must constitute at least 20%. But today we’re talking about the whites. Much like the region, the white grapes are a mix of those you’ll see in Southern France and in Spain: Grenache Blanc, Maccabéo, Tourbat, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Vermentino/Rolle. (The last 3 have to make up 20% of any white blend.)  

THE PAIRING

Today’s wine is the Domaine de Majas Côtes Catalanes Blanc 2016 and this Domaine’s story is an underdog story. They’ve definitely had to roll with punches. Most of the wine in Roussillon is still dominated by co-ops and it can be really hard for the “little guys” to survive on their own. For better or worse, the co-ops often dictate how things are be done and they’ve often lead things astray. They also charge high fees.

This estate was founded by Alain Carrère and his wife Agnès in 1992. His father had also been a grapegrower in the area before him. Alain decided that selling grapes off to the co-ops was no longer an option. He started his own small estate on 2 hectares of land, but soon inherited over 20 more from his father. This was a blessing and a curse, as it was difficult to suddenly have to sell so much more wine, especially on a local level.

He struggled for a long time. Then he struck a deal with a French supermarket chain that offered to buy his entire production. Another double-edged sword. He now had an easy place to sell his wine, but it came with a lot of strings. The supermarket gave strict guidelines on how the wine was to be made and how it should taste–and that was mass market. The wines didn’t have character or a sense of place.

Things got worse. Eventually, the bulk prices the supermarket was paying no longer paid the bills. Alain ultimately met and partnered with another winemaker, Tom Lubbe, who was making organic wines at Domaine Matassa. With Tom’s guidance, the estate was converted to organic agriculture. They also reduced the amount of sulfur used in the cellar and eliminated commercial yeast. They put the emphasis on highlighting the terroirs, which are largely schist, volcanic stone, and limestone. They grow predominantly Carignan, but also Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Syrah, Chenanson, Macabeu, Rolle and Chardonnay. Today’s wine is a blend of Macabeu (Macabeo), Rolle (Vermentino), and Carignan blanc.

While these grapes might seem somewhat unfamiliar, this wine is a utility player. It’s really easy to drink and very approachable. Greg and I picked up notes of peaches, melon, and herbs on the nose. There were more green notes on the palate with green melon, green apple, white peaches, a little kiwi, and lemon with a hint of the rind thrown in. There was also a little bit of cheese rind, which might be coming from the fact that wine spends sometime on it’s lees. There was a little pavement-like stoniness and more green herbs–Greg called it sourgrass, as well as a little parsley. The acidity was medium/medium+ and it had a lovely rounded mouthfeel. This is a good wine to please lovers of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc alike.

This wine could go with any number of things–like I said, it’s a utility player–but I kind of wanted to play with it’s balance of creaminess and fresh flavors. That said, it was also a weeknight and it’s been crazy around here. I thought I’d keep things simple and put a twist on something I’ve made a million times–salmon with a butter sauce (although, I like to extend the butter with olive oil). The best laid plans . . . but we’ll get to that.

I thought I’d give slight nods to the region’s mixed Spanish and French roots. The French part was easy if subtle–I just tossed in some herbs from Southern France. Greg and I developed an appreciation for white asparagus while travelling around Spain. I happened to have a jar of good quality white asparagus on hand. In Spain we’d had asparagus lightly poached in butter and olive oil–perfect. (The liquid in the jar also made an excellent extender for the sauce.)

While I like poached salmon, I also love crispy salmon skin. Often, when I make salmon at home, I sear it on the skin-side first, then poach it in a sauce on the second side. Today this turned out to be my downfall and the skin stuck to the pan. Fine. This also happens with enough frequency that I’ve learned to scrape up the skin when this happens, sear it or broil it separately, then use it as a garnish. On this evening, I did just that: I crumbled it up and tossed it on a hearty salad I made on the side.

Sadly, my troubles were not over. When I went to poach the second side of the salmon, the albumen went so crazy white that you’d think I’d coated it in egg white. It was perfectly cooked inside, but it did not look particularly attractive. Oy vey.

Greg suggested we flake it all up. I figured it couldn’t look less attractive. I also decided to try to gussy it up with some microgreens I happened to have on hand. On top of that, I’d also roasted some lemon slices to pick up the citrus notes and they did help aesthetically. I really like the flavor of the roasted lemons, however, Greg finds the rinds a bit too mouth-puckering.  In the end, it did look better than before we flaked it up, but it was also a little reminiscent of a Fancy Feast commercial.

To avoid these problems, you could just decide to not screw around with the skin, remove it, and poach the whole thing. You could also sear the skin separately from the start, or poach the fish flesh-side down and sear the skin under the broiler. If you get to this point where you feel like you have to flake the salmon up, you could always toss the whole thing with pasta. I’d already made a big salad though, and it had gotten late on me, so we decided just to go with it as it was.

Ah well. It was still delicious and it went as beautifully with the wine as we’d hoped. It picked up creaminess of the sauce, as well as the lemon flavors. The round texture was good match for the salmon and the wine lightened the palate with its freshness.


THE GEEKY DETAILS

From the importer’s website:

Grapes: 45% Macabeu, 45% Rolle, 10% Carignan blanc
Vinification: fermented and aged in concrete on its lees.
Soil: Clay and limestone
Age of Vines: 35
Yields: 38 hl/h

MONEY TALK

WineSearcher.com has the average price on this bottle at $17. I picked it up at Bay Grape for about $15. Given its versatility, this makes a hell of a House Wine.


OTHER POSSIBILITIES

Not going to lie. While this made a beautiful match with this dish, any number of whites would work quite well. And like I said, I think this wine would go wonderfully with many, many things. Go and mix it up. Let us know what works for you.

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Somm's Table 2017