I needed comfort food. I was a little under the weather and not
feeling great on the day we popped open this Chianti Classico. I wanted yummy,
cozy food and that definitely informed the menu choices on this particular day.
Chianti is a great option on which to base a comfort food dinner because the
wines of the region tend to go so well with all of those fantastic Italian
flavors that almost immediately make us feel taken care of.
It’s also a region with a really long history. Grand Duke Cosimo
Medici III first demarcated this Tuscan region in 1716. Barone Bettino Ricasoli
set the foundation for the modern style of Chianti in 1872 with the
recommendation that Sangiovese be the basis of the wine, with the use of a
little Canaiolo to soften Sangio’s edges. Canaiolo was usually used as the base
of the wine, but a wide range of local grapes, including several white wines
grapes (Trebbiano and Malvasia), were originally used in the blend. It took
until the end of the 19th century for the Barone’s recommendations to gain wide
footing. However, Ricasoli’s ‘formula’ won out in the end.
The region’s reputation has taken some punches during this long
history. When it was ultimately codified in 1967 under the DOC system, a much
larger area was included than the Grand Duke had suggested way back in 1716.
This included a lot of vineyard areas that were less than spectacular. There
also wasn’t much control on yields and there was a lot of mass-market
production going on. The “fiasco”–those straw-covered, bulbous bottles you
often now see used as decoration in so many neighborhood Italian joints–became
the symbol for the cheap image of associated with Chianti from the 60’s through
the 80’s.
Eventually, the region got its act together again and decided to
refocus on quality and get their rep back in order. The Classico zone was
upgraded to DOCG status in 1984 (as was Chianti). It essentially covers the
original area between Siena and Florence that the Grand Duke originally laid
out. There have also been tweaks to the production rules and the recipe of
grapes allowed over time. Altogether, Chianti has won its reputation back.
Nowadays, the Chianti DOCG recipe calls for 70-100% Sangiovese.
Local varieties Canaiolo and Colorino can make up the remainder of the blend.
Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet are also now allowed, although Cab may not exceed a
maximum of 15%. The white grapes are out of there. In Chianti Classio DOCG must
be made up of 80% Sangio.
It’s also worth knowing that there are several additional subzones
that can add their names to Chianti: Rùfina, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi,
Colline Pisane, Colli Aretini, and Montalbano, and Montespertoli. Of these,
Rùfina is usually considered to be the most consistent in quality.
THE PAIRING
Today’s wine is the Borgo Scopeto Chinati Classico 2013. This property is right outside Siena. It was the residence of the Sozzini family for five centuries. It was carefully restored and is now a spectacular looking hotel. (Waiting for my invite and ready to pack my bags at any time!)
Chianti’s flavor profile is characterized by red and black cherry
fruit notes, along with savory wild herbs and spice, and tends to show Sangio’s
racy acidity and well-structured tannins. Classico will tend to show more of
this structure, whereas basic Chianti can be on the lighter, fruitier side.
The Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico showed a lot of traditional
characteristics. On the day we opened this bottle Greg and I noted black cherry
fruit notes, maybe a little persimmon–the fruit notes showed at various stages,
some on the fresher side, as well as some more sauced and cooked notes. There
was tarragon, oregano, and other mixed savory herbs, black tea, and tomato
leaf. There were light spice notes of clove and a little orange rind. The wine
opened up considerably in the glass when we tasted it, allowing the fruit notes
to open up and flesh out and for the spice notes to integrate. We definitely
decanted the rest of the wine about an hour before dinner later that night. (I
learned my lesson after our experience with the Douro and Octopus.)
Like I said, I really wanted comfort food, so my mind basically
went straight to meatballs or meatloaf. Greg seconded the meatloaf idea, so we
decided to give it an Italian spin incorporating some of the herb notes we
picked up in the wine and served it topped with and quick and easy tomato and
onion sauté.
The meal was rounded out with a batch of Potatoes and Leeks, based
on a recipe by Chef André Soltner, that I’d made earlier in the week. When I
was in culinary school, I used to volunteer helping out during the recreational
classes the school gave. I picked up this recipe during one such recreational
class lead by André Soltner, who happens to be one of the deans at ICC. It has
become one of our absolute favorite ways to enjoy potatoes. It’s a chunkier
twist on mashed potatoes, but so much easier to make, and the potatoes get
soooooo much flavor from the leeks and onions they’re cooked with.
I’d expected then wine to become brighter alongside the tomatoes
in the food. Interestingly, it actually became darker and broodier, with more
of the tobacco, spice, and notes of licorice and light pepper emerging from the
wine. The wine did really open and the fruit really smoothed out after getting
some air. Some darker fruit notes joined the party as well. On the whole, this
was exactly the kind of homey, comforting dinner I was looking for, and it was
backed with full support from Greg as well.
We had actually previously had this wine a few months ago when my ‘sister
from another mister,’ Antonella, was visiting. One night we decided to stay in
and cook. Part of Anto’s family is of Italian origin and she gave me a tutorial
on how her family prepares Filetto di Pomodoro (or fillet of tomato) and
served it on penne with a little prosciutto kicker. It’s a simple dish and we
had such a lovely evening in. The wine worked well in that case too, so I’ve
gone ahead and included that recipe at the end as well.
THE GEEKY DETAILS
I couldn’t find the exact blend, but the varietals are fermented
separately for 6 days, and the wine is left in contact with the skins for
another 10 days. Couldn’t find any details on the wood aging either–details are
pretty scant on the tech sheet
MONEY TALK
I bought this wine from Wine.com where it’s currently listed at
$14.99. I thought it was a really solid representation of the category at a
really good price. At that price, this is a great House Wine.
OTHER POSSIBILITIES
Given those broodier notes that came out with the food, I think
this could work well with braised and stewed meat as well. Or try it with this
Spicy Salami Tomato Pasta I made a while back. On the wine side, I think a
Barbera would also most likely make a very nice match.
I've recently revisited this recipe and share additional pairing and serving ideas on Nibbling Gypsy's Instagram.
