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Perfect pairings from the other side of the equation.

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There’s a lot of love in the air around here right now.

As you know, Valentine’s just passed, then a couple of days later Greg and I celebrated our 12th wedding anniversary!

We’ve always kept Valentine’s pretty chill. Even before our wedding anniversary landed right after it, we usually opted to celebrate it a day or two before or after to avoid crowded restaurants, or we’d order in on the actual day. We’re even more low key about it now.

Nonetheless, I still like to mark the day with something a little special. A cheese and charcuterie spread is one of my favorite ways to spend a Date Night In, and that’s exactly what we did. (Let’s be honest, I’ve shared more than one of these on this blog. Check out a few others at the end.) While Valentine’s Day has now passed, hopefully, this will serve as inspiration for some tasty Date Nights In of your own. Of course, that date doesn’t have to be with a partner. Make a date to hang out with buds or fam and spread the good vibes around!


Our cheese and charcuterie spread, clockwise from left: R & G Cheese Makers Eclipse ash-ripened goat cheese, a basic Manchego, Brooklyn Cured Uncured Sweet Soppressata, R & G Cheese Makers Goat's Milk Camembert, Journeyman Meat Co. Romano - Palmer Finnochiona Italian Salame with Fennel and Fennel Pollen.

Food is definitely my love language, and on this particular evening, I decided to express it by baking the bread. I’m a big fan of the No-Knead Bread recipe developed by Jim Lahey, of Sullivan Street Bakery. You do need to start things a few days in advance, but it is so soooo easy and the results are really fantastic. A while back a friend gave me a sourdough starter, so now I make this sourdough version from the NYT Cooking. (That’s behind a paywall, so here is another version that isn’t, although I haven’t tried this recipe yet.) Of course, you can keep things easy and buy a loaf – treat yourself to a good one.

Bread ✔
Cheese ✔
Charcuterie ✔

Now for the wine. I’d recently been sent a media sample bottle of Paula Kornell Blanc de Noirs Napa Valley 2017 (SRP $50, 12.5% abv) and what better day to pop it open than on Valentine’s Day?! Paula Kornell launched her namesake brand in 2019, and the 2017 wines were the inaugural vintage!


This is a new label, but one with a lot of history behind it. Paula grew up with sparkling wine as the family business. Her father Hanns, was the third generation of a winemaking family in his native Germany. He was forced to leave his home after being released from a concentration camp during WWII, and eventually made his way to California. He and his wife, Marilouise, were eventually able to buy the historic Larkmead Estate and established Hanns Kornell Champagne Cellars in Napa Valley in 1958.

Paula worked in father’s winery, and once the winery closed in 1992, she went onto work in varied and prestigious roles in the California wine world including as general manager of several wineries, as well as serving as chair of Napa Valley Wine Auction (now Auction Napa Valley), and president of the board of directors for Napa Valley Vintners. She started a wine consulting company in 2014 and her own ultimately the Paula Kornell wine label. I’d say all of this make this wine a good lead into Women’s History Month next month as well!





On the nose, I picked up notes of ripe lemons and gold apples. On the palate, the apples were a mix of gold and green, which were joined by baked pears, strawberries, and stone fruits accented by sweet spice notes. There were also light floral notes of honeysuckle and chamomile, and tiny savory hints of thyme and salted almonds.

This is a traditional method sparkling wine and is made up of 98% Pinot Noir, and 2% Chardonnay and aged for 20 months on the lees. The winery also recommends it paired with prosciutto, Époisses, figs, chicken liver pâté, anchovy pizza, or a goat cheese omelette.
 

By coincidence, shortly after Valentine's I had the chance to attend a reception for Paul Kornell, during which I also got to try their California Brut, as well as a special bottling. All were delicious. The California Brut is great value buy with an SRP of $22. I have sample bottle waiting for me, so we may be revisiting it soon.

* * * * *

I think it might be a requirement that one has chocolate on Valentine’s Day, and I was more than happy to comply. I baked up these Fudgy Nutella Brownies. They were off the hook!

You might notice that this is in a pie shape rather than in typical brownie bars. A couple of pans have gone missing around here, but I wasn’t about to let that keep us from good brownies, so into the pie dish the batter went. This picture also doesn't do justice to how good they were. They look dry in this pic, but they weren't in the least. These were also ribbons of chocolate hazelnut deliciousness running throughout.

Ruby port is an ideal pairing for dark chocolate desserts. The rule of thumb with dessert pairings is that you want the wine to be sweeter than the dessert, if not the wine will taste kind of sour. Keeping with this point, I personally find that they tend to work better with darker and denser chocolate desserts, rather than milk chocolate and/or less dense chocolate desserts. While these brownies were still pretty sweet, the bitter edge of the dark chocolate helped offset the sweetness and they worked solidly with the wine.

By comparison, we also tried this wine with chocolate pots de crème on another evening. While I tried to limit the sweetness in the custards and also used bittersweet chocolate, the cream lightened up chocolate, and they didn’t pair quite as well together with the Ruby Port as the brownies. Going in a completely different direction, this is also a great pairing with strong cheeses.

We enjoyed the Warre’s Warrior Finest Reserve Port NV (sample bottle, average price $18, 20% abv) with our brownies. The company that would eventually become Warre’s was founded in 1670. The Warrior label first shipped in the 1750’s and has been made ever since, making it the oldest continuously produced brand of Port.

On the nose, this wine shows notes of chocolate-dipped black cherries, dark plums, black licorice,  and a hint of smoke. The same notes continued on the palate, along with raspberry and blackberry candy and tiny a hint of pepper. 

We’re not going to get into all the different types of Port today, as there are quite a few, but very basically Ruby Ports are usually the entry-level Ports. Gateway Ports, if you will. They’re usually bottled with less than three years of age, but are ready to drink as soon as you open them. No need to age these guys further. They’re full of sweet, ripe berry flavors.

This is a Reserve Ruby Port, which means it was aged in cask for longer than the average Ruby – up to 5 years for bottling. (The tech sheet for this one did not specify how long this one was aged.) It’s also usually a blend of higher quality wines than a basic Ruby. There’s also no need age these guys any further either – they’re ready to drink!

No need to worry about finishing these in one sitting either. Ruby Ports (basic or reserve) will keep for 4 to 6 weeks after being opened.

If you want to take a deeper dive into the world of Port, here are a couple of good primer articles for further reading:

  • A Beginner's Guide to Port Wine: The World's Most Famous Fortified Wine on the Spruce Eats
  • and Wine Wednesday: Ruby Port vs Tawny Port on Wine Folly, which includes a video. 

If you're interested in trying variations on the No-Knead Bread recipe, I recommend Jim Lahey's  book My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method.  


As a little bonus, take inspo from the signature cocktail from the the Paula Kornell Reception.


As for our anniversary, we celebrated with a beautiful dinner at Iyasare in Berkely.

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#FBF to our beautiful Anniversary Dinner at @iyasareberkeley. 1. Ika Poppo - marinated & grilled whole squid / tempura tentacles / mentaiko aioli 🦑 2. Iyasare Kakiyage - burdock root / yellow onion / sweet potato / shiitake / shungiku / bonito soy broth / black tiger shrimp 🍠 3. Ocean Umami - Hokkaido scallop / ikura / sea urchin / nori gel / ume / chive oil 🐚 4. Okonomiyaki - shrimp / scallop / squid / cabbage / pork belly / ginger / japanese bbq sauce / mayo 🍤 5. Yasai Yaki - sauteed cauliflower / hachimitsu miso. 🥦 6. Mekabetsu — fried brussels sprouts / black garlic oil / katsuobushi / lemon / shichimi 🍋 7. Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai Southern Beauty. @nanbu_bijin
A post shared by Nicole Ruiz Hudson, DipWSET (@nibblinggypsy) on Feb 28, 2020 at 1:30pm PST



Check out other wine and cheese date nights and posts here: 
  • A Wine & Cheese Night #MadeinFrance 
  • Valentine's Date Night with Broc Cellars Love Red & a Cheese Plate 
  • Champagne Dames, Lamiable Extra Brut, and a Hot Cheesy Mess  
  • Wine, Cheese, and Wine & Cheese Ice Cream from Humphry Slocombe, Domaine Carneros, and Laura Chenel 
  • Bringing Home Cahors with Clos d'Audhuy  
  • Champalou Vouvray Brut and a Very Lazy Cheese Night  
  • Bubbles, Books, & a Bloomy Rind: Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut with a Good Read and a Cheese Board  

This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.




Domaine Chardigny Saint-Amour with Roasted Citrus Salmon with Raspberry and Goat Cheese Salad by Greg Hudson

I’m partial to Valentine’s celebrated in. Like I mentioned in my last post, we usually order in or make something nice rather than have to deal with the craziness of going out on Valentine’s night. Last time, I shared one version of a Date Night In with a cheese and charcuterie spread. This post will be a home cooked version of Valentine’s night in, just in case you were waiting for the weekend to celebrate.

I think there are a couple of things to consider when creating a meal for a romantic evening. It shouldn’t be fussy or complicated. It also should be on the lighter side. Being all stressed out or too full and weighed down works against you later on in the evening romantically speaking. *Wink, wink.* The recipe I created today is ready in less than thirty, stress-free minutes, and it’s beautiful and elegant.

Of course, the wine should reflect the mood as well; the wines of Saint-Amour literally have love written all over them. What’s in the bottle grooves with the mood too. The wines tend to be light, floral, full of spiced berry flavors, and lots of minerality.

Saint-Amour is one of the ten Beaujolais Crus. I discussed three of the other Crus in this previous post. See that post for more detail about the region as a whole, but here is a quick recap. The grape of Beaujolais is Gamay, which might best known for making fun, fruity light Beaujolais Nouveau. The ten Crus, however, are communes that have established a reputation for quality and each has its own personality. These wine are less likely to rely on carbonic maceration (or it’s used on a smaller percentage of the wine) and are more likely to be made in a classic Burgundian style. Across the board, the Crus tend to make really wonderful, food friendly wines, that are definitely worthy of serious exploration.



THE PAIRING

Domaine Chardigny  Saint-Amour A la Folie 2016  by Greg Hudson
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I first tried the Domaine Chardigny Saint-Amour A la Folie 2016 when we poured it for a tasting at Bay Grape and I knew it would be perfect for a Date Night–it smells like a lovely bouquet!

The day I opened it at home with Greg we picked up lots of raspberries lightly spiced with white pepper and cloves and violets on the nose. The berries and spice continued on the palate and were joined by cherries and floral potpourri,  as well as a stony core. It was medium bodied, with bright, medium plus acidity, and a really light tannic grip. Even though this wine is medium in weight, it really opened up with time–the fruit got rounder and more supple.

Given that medium body and the light tannins, this seemed like a great red wine candidate to pair with fish, which automatically helps to keep the whole dish light. We opted for salmon, since it is a bit meatier. Alongside the salmon, I decided to serve it with a green salad adorned with raspberries, as well as almonds and goat cheese. I added a pinch of clove and white pepper to the dressing to bring out the spice notes in the wine.

The salmon preparation is based on a recipe by Mark Bittman that I absolutely love for its simplicity and deliciousness. Roasted citrus adds brightness, while butter adds richness and it’s so incredibly fast and easy!

I also added a little bit of balsamic glaze (purchased ready-made at Trader Joe’s) to perk up and add brightness to the food. It did just that, however, I will say that the vinegar shuts down the flavors in the wine. Use it sparingly as a garnish and mix it in with the rest of the food to keep it from flattening out the wine.

Altogether, it was a fresh and easy pairing. It comes together without breaking a sweat, won’t leave you feeling weighed down, and worked beautifully together.



Roasted Citrus Salmon with Raspberry and Goat Cheese Salad, Photo Credit: Greg Hudson

Roasted Citrus Salmon with Raspberry and Goat Cheese Salad, Photo Credit Greg Hudson

 

GEEKY DETAILS

Saint-Amour got its name from the legend of a Roman soldier who converted to Christianity and  escaped death. He started a monastery nearby and was later canonized as Saint Amateur. Amateur means “lover” in French, but without the romantic/sexual bent. Nonetheless, as you can probably guess, the wines of Saint-Amour gets really popular right around Valentine’s Day.

Saint-Amour is one of the smallest Crus and it’s also the furthest north–it’s just south of Pouilly-Fuisse and Saint-Veran in Burgundy. (It actually even overlaps area a bit with Saint-Veran.)  Despite being so far north, it has a few things going for it that actually help the grapes in this area ripen more easily than in some of the Crus further south. There are hills to the west that help to block the area from heavy weather systems. Warms winds arise from the hilly area that help keep the grapes dry and disease free.  Saint-Amour itself if also pretty hilly, and those hills help position the vines to get maximum sun exposure, which helps ripen those grapes.

The soils here are also more diverse than in a lot of the rest of Beaujolais. You definitely find the granite that is common to a lot of the Beaujolais Crus, but you also find schist, clay, alluvium, and more. The diverse soils in this Cru give its distinct minerality. The La Foile vineyard, where today’s wine come from, has a mixture of ancient alluvial igneous rocks. (See more details on the soils and Domain Chardigny’s vineyards here.)

Domaine Chardigny is a family owned vineyard with a long history. Brothers Pierre-Maxime and Victor-Emmanuel Chardigny took control in 2014 and immediately set about converting the vineyards to organic farming–the family was already farming sustainably.

Victor is the youngest brother. He got a degree in Enology and Viticulture and now oversees the vineyards and winemaking. Pierre-Maxime is the oldest brother and has a business degree, so handles that side of the operation, but also works in the vineyard and cellars. There is also a middle brother–Jean-Baptiste–who isn’t currently working on the family business because he’s managing the Macon vineyards over at Domaine Leflaive. So there is some serious winemaking talent in the fam.

This wine is matured in a combination of concrete, stainless steel, and neutral oak barrels.



MONEY TALK

The suggested retail price on this wine is $26 and it makes a beautiful Date Night Wine not only for it’s ideally named area of origin, but also for it’s beautiful aromatic nose and bright palate.

 

OTHER POSSIBILITIES

This wine should be pretty versatile and would make a great choice when dining out and need to accommodate multiple and diverse dishes. Beaujo Crus are a go-to for this purpose.

If you’d like to pair another red with this salmon the key factors are to focus on finding a wine with medium minus to light tannins that won’t class with the fish. Bright acidity will also help the wine stand up to all the citrus in the dish. A lighter Pinot Noir would be an easy swap. A number of white wines should also work easily with this dish. You can definitely head toward to the fuller end of the white spectrum, but be sure to pick something with a lot of freshness.

If you try a pairing you love, please share!




Photo Credit Greg Hudson

I have to be honest with you all – I’m really not big on going out for Valentine’s Day. Greg and I do celebrate it every year, but we’re more likely to order in or make something nice for ourselves. Our wedding anniversary also happens to be just a couple of days later, so we save the big dinner out for that celebration. Fewer people are likely to be out anyways, so it always feels way more chill. (Funny enough, this used to be our custom even before we got married.)

Pizza and take-out sushi are among our favorites for Valentine’s Day, but this year we went with cheese and charcuterie. Honestly, of all the cuisines and foods I love, cheap or fancy, a simple cheese and charcuterie plate might be my absolute favorite thing. I think it’s what I’d have for my last meal. Bring on the cheese!!!

This year I’m working on Valentine’s evening (tonight) so we had ourselves a little date night in a fews days ago. Greg grilled slices of baguette in duck fat while I tossed together a salad. Then we laid out all the goodies–cheeses, prosciutto, pork rillettes, almonds, and chocolate to top things off. 



Photo Credit Greg Hudson

To pair with this bounty, I bought us a bottle one of the most perfectly named bottles of wines for the occasion – Broc Cellars Love Red North Coast 2016. Happily, the name isn’t just a marketing gimmick. The wine is legit. 

The wine is legit, but how perfect is that label? Photo credit on all photos but this one to Greg Hudson.

Broc Cellars is an urban winery in Berkeley, California and for me the wines fall into the natural wine camp. (This is a debatable point for sure, depending on how you define this, but not going to get into it now.) Winemaker Chris Brockway sources all of his grapes from biodynamic or organic vineyards, uses all native yeasts for his fermentations, and keeps sulfur to a minimum. He also tends to pick the grapes for his wines early to preserve acidity. In my experience with his wines they tend to be fun and just a hint funky.

The Love Red is no exception. It’s a blend of Carignan, Syrah, and Valdiguié. If you’re unfamiliar with Valdiguié, it’s a grape that originated in the Languedoc, but now is only seen in small quantities. For a while it was confused with Gamay in California, until DNA testing discovered its true origins. Nonetheless, it was allowed to be referred to as Napa Gamay until 1999. The mix up should tell you a little something about how it tastes though – Valdiguié tends to make light, fruity wine.


Photo Credit Greg Hudson

The wine kind of tastes like a Beaujolais and a Côtes du Rhône got together and had a baby. This kind of makes sense from the grape blend and makes even more sense when you look at the winemaking. The Valdiguié undergoes carbonic maceration, much like a Beaujolais. The Carignan and Syrah, on the other hand go through standard fermentation in stainless steel. The wine is then aged for eight months in neutral French oak barrels. (You can find more details on the tech sheet here.)  

Greg called it “Rhoney”, so maybe it falls a little more into that camp than the Beaujo side. It had notes of really tart red cherries and a whole mix of red and blue berries that are all a little candied. There are light hints of dried and bitter herbs in mix, a little bit of spice, and a whiff of funk on the nose. It’s super juicy with lots of acidity and light tannins. It’s super easy to drink–definitely Gulpable.

The wine also went pretty easily with just about everything on the cheese board. It paired with all the charcuterie and all but the funkiest cheese–a Shropshire Blue. I got this at Bay Grape for $21. Broc Cellars also makes a white and rosé Love blend, in addition to this red. It’s a great pick for an chill Date Night In.

Happy Valentine’s Day Everyone!

Stay tuned for another date night wine with later this week.
And if you want more cheesiness, check back on another wine and cheese night here



Photo Credit Greg Hudson
Photo Credit Greg Hudson




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Somm's Table 2017