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Côtes du Rhônes are among my most regular everyday go-to’s. They’re kind of the quintessential bistro wine since they tend to not be expensive, are pretty food-friendly, and just generally easy-going. For the same reasons, they fall into a sweet spot for what I’m usually looking for in a weeknight wine. Similarly, if I’m having a party (when parties were a thing) and need to supply wine for lots of people, I’m bound to serve a few bottles of CdR because they tend to be crowd-pleasers, in addition to having those wallet-friendly prices. The Rhône also happens to be one of my very favorite wine regions, so I get to please my own palate as well.


 
Côtes du Rhône is actually quite a large AOP/AOC with 86,000 acres, and as is usually the case in large regions, there is a lot of variety and quite a bit more to know than one might expect. Here are the basics:

  • It covers the whole region. The Côtes du Rhône AOC was established in 1937 and covers the entire Rhône Valley, both north and south. That said, the grand majority of CdR comes from the Southern Rhône.
  • Most Rhône wine is Côtes du Rhône. This is the entry-level appellation for the region, and the majority of the wines released from the Rhône fall under it – over ⅔ according to GuildSomm.com, although I've seen figures of around 50% elsewhere.  
  • CdR’s come in Red, White, and Rosé. The overwhelming amount of wine is red as over 95% of the region’s vineyards are planted with red grapes, which of course can be used for rosé as well. However,  you will find white wines too. Today we’re going to look at an example of each color. 
  • It’s all about the blends. Generally, speaking most wines from the Southern Rhône are blends, and that’s also typically the case for CdR’s. Moreover, there are 21 permitted grape varieties to choose from. 
    • That said, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre (aka GSM) are the star players for the reds, with Grenache usually making up the base of the blend, as it is the most planted grape in Southern Rhône. Cinsault and Carignan also make frequent appearances. 
    • Marsanne, Roussane, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc are common players among the whites. 
  • There are levels. While Côtes du Rhône is the entry point and the base of the region’s quality pyramid, there are few more levels. With each rung you move up the ladder, the quality restrictions get tighter and there is  more regulation of how the wine is made.
    • In 1966 the Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC was added for villages deemed to be producing wines of consistently higher quality. 
    • Next up are the named Côtes du Rhône Villages. These communes get to attach their name on the label. Currently, there are 21, but more are occasionally added. 
    • The Crus sit at the top of the pyramid above all the CdR's. This tier includes all of the Rhône’s most famous appellations like Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côte-Rôtie. There are 8 in the north and 9 in the south. I hope to eventually get to them all, but so far we’ve explored:
      • Crozes-Hermitage (Northern Rhône)
      • Gigondas (Southern Rhône)
      • Ventoux  (Southern Rhône)
      • Rasteau  (Southern Rhône)

 

Famille Perrin


I recently received a set of samples of Famille Perrin’s Côtes du Rhône wines and I thought this would be a great opportunity to explore the range of CdR colors together.

The Perrin stepped into the wine world in 1909, Pierre Traminer bought the famous Château de Beaucastel and then transferred it to his son-in-law Pierre Perrin, a scientist who further developed the property. His son, Jacques, then continued his father’s work and continued expanding the family’s holdings. His sons Jean-Pierre and François now head up the business with the fifth and 6th generations involved in the company as well. They now have a wide range of holdings and wines spanning the entire Rhône pyramid, as well as participation in ventures around the world.

The family is also a leading organic grape grower in the Southern Rhône. The began working with organic farming techniques in 1950, and later biodynamic farming in 1974. They are trying many different techniques at their properties, which now span much further than the
Southern Rhône. Initiatives include an innovative renovation at Château de Beaucastel, as described in the article by Jill Barth on Forbes.com, and Regenerative Farming at Tablas Creek here in California, as described in this post by Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles. Their organically certified Nature Côtes du Rhône line, the red of which is described below, is another example.

THE WINES


For this post, I’m looking at three of their Côtes du Rhône, all of which are pretty classic examples of their respective CdR color and all very good values.
 
These wines were provided as media samples. Please note that no other compensation was received and all opinions are my own.
 

Côtes du Rhône Reserve Blanc 2019


Average Price: $12
Blend: Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier
Alc: 13%
Nose: White flowers, sweet honeysuckle, melon, white peach, and apples jump out of the glass.
Palate: All came back on the palate, and were joined by almonds, lemon cream, and stony minerals. It showed medium acid and medium body.
Find more details on the wine here.

 

Côtes du Rhône Reserve Rosé 2019


Average Price: $12
Blend: Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah
Alc: 13%
Nose: Cherry blossoms, tart cherries and strawberries.
Palate: The flowers and juicy red fruits were rounded out by a lightly creamy texture. Medium acidity and medium body.
Find more details on the wine here.

 

Côtes du Rhône Nature Rouge 2018


Average Price: $13
Blend: Grenache, Syrah
Alc: 14.1%
Nose:  A bouquet of herbs and flowers, with berries and rosehips.
Palate: Crushed berries, pepper, and pencil lead. It reminded me of brambly raspberry and blackberry bushes at the edge of a forest. Medium body, medium + acidity, and medium/medium + tannins.
The grapes for this wine are certified organic by Ecocert.
Find more details on the wine here.


THE PAIRINGS & HOW THEY WORKED



Our friends Dee and OWD visited the Rhône Valley last year, back when we could travel, although they focused on the Northern Rhône. 
 

I asked Dee to send me some pics of their adventures. These pics are of Cornas in Northern Rhône, where the landscape is more mountainous, and the weather and soils are bit different, but it still gives a bit of an idea of the rugged, rocky terrain.

Dee picked up this little recipe booklet for me put out by Inter-Rhône and I thought it would be fun to pick a couple of recipes to try and then see how each of the wines worked with them.


 
I chose a mushroom terrine with grape compote and a braised pork dish flavored with preserved lemon and rosemary. I made a meal out each and served the dishes with the wines over two nights, however, these were originally intended to be an appetizer and a main dish respectively. I’ve adapted each bit from the original. Here’s a little about each and how they worked with the wines.

 

Mushroom Terrine with Grape Compote and Cheese

 

While this is written as a terrine, which is certain to be the more elegant presentation, I kind of prefer the creamier texture of pâté, and you can easily go either way with this recipe. For the pâté-like texture (which is the direction I went), just use an immersion blender on the mushrooms, or run them through the blender. 
 
While the grape preparation is referred to as a compote, the grapes actually retained their shape fairly well, so they're more like glazed grapes. To turn this into a complete meal, I served it with a salad and sourdough bread I’d baked. I also had some Moses Sleeper cheese – a creamy, bloomy rind cheese that’s just a little funkier than a basic brie-style IMHO – so I included it in the spread.

  • Greg and I agreed that the rosé was the MVP in this spread. Regardless of the composition of the bite, it seemed to work quite well.
  • The red was the runner up. It worked with the mushrooms and wasn’t too bad with bites involving the cheese or even the compote, which could be tricky at times due to its sweetness.
  • The white version worked solidly well with bites that had mushrooms and cheese, as well as with the salad. It definitely did not work with the grape compote.

 

Braised Pork with Preserved Lemon, Rosemary, and Fennel



I love the flavor components in this dish, however, preserved lemon is an intense flavor and I shouldn’t have used as much as the recipe indicated. The way it was, it kind of took over, particularly in the leftovers after the flavors had sat together overnight. I’ve written it here the way I should’ve made it, with the quantity drastically reduced, as well as making a couple of other adjustments. My grocery store also didn't have pork loin, as requested by the recipe (and it would've been my preference), so I had to adjust for tenderloin. I give instructions for both below. I served it all with Israeli couscous and a salad.
  • The overall winner was the white CdR. It was refreshing with the pork and the food resonated well with the lemon and herb flavors in the wine.
  • Greg and I were split on the other two wines. I preferred the rosé, which I thought was refreshing, and matched the weight of the food. Greg felt it brought out a melon note in the wine that he didn’t care for.
  • He preferred the red as a close runner up, and the choice was particularly close for bites that were predominantly pork. I have to say that I was surprised – I didn’t expect the red to work with the flavors in the dish at all, and I had to agree that it wasn’t half bad.
To me, there is a floral note in fennel, and in turn, the dish brought out the floral notes in each of the wines. 
 

Mushroom Terrine with Grape Compote
Print

Mushroom Terrine with Grape Compote

By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson, Adapted from recipe by Inter-Rhône
Prep Time: 15 MinCooking Time: 45 Mininactive time: 8 HourTotal Time: 9 Hour

Ingredients:

For the Mushroom Terrine
  • 1.5 to 1.75 lbs of mixed mushrooms (The original recipe recommends porcini and a couple of different types of chanterelles. I used a mix of various kinds including a high percentage of cremini.)
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 3 shallots, finely diced
  • 3 to 4 garlic, finely diced
  • 1 bunch of parsley, chervil, or half a bunch of each, chopped
  • 5 sprigs tarragon (or substitute in 1 tsp dried), chopped
  • 1 cup cream
  • 1 packet of gelatin
  • Salt, to taste
  • Pepper, to taste
For the Grape Compote
  • 2 Tbsp butter
  • 1 Tbsp vinegar
  • 1 Tbsp sugar
  • 1 lb grapes, rinsed and dried (The original recipe recommends Muscat or Chasselas, but I used regular red table grapes here.)

Instructions:

For the Mushrooms
  1. Rinse mushrooms, trim off the woody ends of any mushrooms that have them, then slice up mushrooms.
  2. Sweat shallots in the olive oil in a large pan over medium/medium-high heat until beginning to turn translucent, then add in the garlic and continue to cook for about 30 seconds. Add in the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. As the mushrooms begin to release cooking juices, spoon out about ¼ cup of the juices, and set aside. Cook the mushrooms until they’ve softened and the majority of the remaining liquid has been cooked off.
  3. Optional: For a terrine with a creamier, paté-like texture, blend the mushroom with an immersion blender (or regular blender).
  4. Sprinkle the gelatine in the reserved mushroom liquid and let stand for 1 minute. Add the mushroom-gelatine mix to a small saucepan along with the cream, whisking until the gelatin is fully dissolved, then reduce the liquid by about ⅓ over medium-high heat.
  5. Add the mushroom-cream sauce to the mushroom mixture, along with the chopped herbs. Taste and adjust seasoning. Pour the mixture into a terrine dish or small casserole dish. Weigh the terrine down with a board or a plate. Store in the fridge and allow to set for at least 8 hours.
For the Grape Compote
  1. Melt butter in a deep pan, then add in the vinegar, sugar, and grapes. Toss everything to dissolve the sugar and coat the grapes well. Cook for about 5 minutes, then set aside to cool.
  2. Serve the terrine and with the grape compote.
https://www.sommstable.com/2020/09/all-colors-of-cotes-du-rhone-with-famille-perrin.html
mushrooms, terrine, pate
appetizer
French
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator

 

 

pork, braise, fennel
dinner
French
Servings: 4 to 5
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson, Adapted from recipe by Inter-Rhône
Print
Braised Pork with Preserved Lemon, Rosemary, and Fennel

Braised Pork with Preserved Lemon, Rosemary, and Fennel

Prep Time: 10 MinCooking Time: 60 MinTotal Time: 1 H & 10 M
Serve with a side of Israeli couscous as shown here, potatoes, or rice.

Ingredients:

  • 2 to 2.5 boned pork loin or tenderloin (however, note the two will require different cooking times)
  • 1 to 2 Tbsp butter
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • Juice of 1 to 2 lemons
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 Tbsp honey
  • 6 sprigs rosemary
  • 6 bulbs fennel, quartered
  • 1 preserved lemons, sliced
  • Salt, to taste
  • Ground pepper, to taste

Instructions:

  1. Heat butter and oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the pork and brown on all sides, then place on a separate plate and set aside.
  2. Reduce the heat in the pan to low, then add garlic and cook until it’s beginning to turn fragrant and lightly golden (1 to 2 minutes), then add in the honey, lemon juice, sprigs of rosemary, and 6 oz of water. Stir to combine, allow the mixture to come to a boil, then immediately reduce to a simmer. Add in the fennel and the preserved lemons, along with a generous pinch of salt and pepper.
  3. If you’re working with a pork loin, add it back to the pot now, cover, and cook over very gentle heat for 50 mintues to 1 hour 15 minutes (the final internal temperature should be between 145° F medium-rare) and 165°F for medium to medium well). If you’re working with pork tenderloin, the cooking time will be at the lower range of this, about 50 minutes.
  4. When the pork is cooked through to the desired temperature and the fennel is tender, remove from the pot. Taste and adjust seasoning. Allow the pork to rest for about 5 minutes, then slice and serve with the fennel and lemons and a little jus spooned on top.
https://www.sommstable.com/2020/09/all-colors-of-cotes-du-rhone-with-famille-perrin.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator




*****
Check out these previous posts and recipes related to the Rhône:
  •  A Simple Spring Lamb Feast with Maison Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage 
  • Cooking to the Wine: Les Vins de Vienne Gigondas with Gratinéed Shepherd's Pie  
  • Cooking to the Wine: Clos de Trias Ventoux with Bacon-Cheddar-Teriyaki Burgers  
  • 5 Nights of Rasteau  
  • 8 & $20: Braised Lamb Shanks and Lentil Stew  
  • 8 & $20: Ham Steaks with Peach-Tomato Succotash
  • A Wine & Cheese Night #MadeinFrance
  • French Wine 101 Cheat Sheet 
 And for a bonus pairing idea,  I've found that CdR Blancs tend to be quite good with Asian cuisines that aren't super spicy,  like this one from Guigal we had with Laotian take-out.

View this post on Instagram

#TakeoutTuesday: #ChampaGarden is one of our favorite local spots – the rice ball salad is always a go-to and I love the fried wrapped spring rolls! A bottle of @domaineguigal #cotesdurhoneblanc made a delicious pairing with recent dinner ordered in. . If you can, be sure to support your local restaurants during this difficult time.

A post shared by Nicole Ruiz Hudson, DipWSET (@nibblinggypsy) on Apr 21, 2020 at 12:49pm PDT


 
*****
 
The rest of the French Winophiles blogging group are exploring various aspects of Côtes du Rhône, hosted by Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla. If you happen to see this post early enough, join our twitter chat at 8am Pacific Saturday 9/19/20 by following the hashtag #Winophiles.
  • A Côtes du Rhône from Franck Balthazar and A Deconstructed Pairing by Robin on Crushed Grape Chronicles
  • A Côtes du Rhône Tasting by Payal on Keep the Peas
  • All the Colors of Côtes du Rhône with Famille Perrin by Nicole on Somm's Table
  • A Trio of Côtes du Rhône Pairings by Cam on Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • A Window Into Chateau-Neuf-Du-Pape Through Maison M. Chapoutier by Susannah on Avvinare
  • Back on the Rhône Again by Cristy.
  • Beef Tongue Stew with a Côtes du Rhône Gigondas by Wendy on A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • Côtes du Rhône and Clearwater Camping: Charcuterie in God’s Country by Terri on Our Good Life
  • Côtes du Rhône: Essential French Wines by Jill Barth on L’Occassion
  • Lamb Meatballs Paired with Côtes du Rhône by Jane Niemeyer on Always Ravenous
  • Leaning Savory with a 2016 Alain Jaume Côtes du Rhône by Linda Whipple on My Full Wine Glass
  • Rhone Roam #3: Crozes-Hermitage Is Syrah, Condrieu Equals Viognier Paired with Fall Fish #Winophiles by Gwendolyn Alley at Wine Predator
  • Rhône Wine with Brisket by David Crowley at Cooking Chat
  • Turkey Does the Côtes du Rhône by Andrea Lemiux at The Quirky Cork
  • What the Heck is Côtes du Rhône Villages? by Mel at Wining with Mel
 
Additional sources used for this post and further reading:
Wine Enthusiast: What is Côtes du Rhône?
WineFolly: The Guide to Côtes-du-Rhône Wine w/ Maps 
The Oxford Companion via JancisRobinson.com  
Wine-searcher.com 
Vino Vest: Cotes du Rhône (History, Top Wines, Prices, How to Buy) 
 
 
This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.
 

 
I’ve only been to Texas once. We went to a friends' wedding in Marfa, a town in way, way, way, West Texas.

Such a spectacular setting for a wedding!

At the time, I didn’t know anything about the town, but art lovers will know it as a famous art destination. It’s the home of notable artistic sites like the Chinati Foundation and Prada Marfa. 

Untitled concrete works by Donald Judd at the Chinati Foundation.
If I had preconceived expectations of the trip, they were shattered. Everyone local we spoke to seemed to have at least three jobs; those they had to make money, and then art(s) they practiced. The town is almost an art installation in itself and almost seemed out of time. 


For me it also reflected a romantic ideal of “Texasness,” even if it’s extremely different (to my understanding) from many other places in modern Texas. This might be why it’s been used as a filming location for movies like There Will Be Blood and No Country for Old Men. That and the dramatic, expansive vistas. 


I was sent a couple of samples by
Texas Fine Wines from Duchman Family Winery for this month’s Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) event celebrating Texas wine. The winery is located near Austin, which isn’t  really near Marfa at all, but in a weird way, drinking these bottles kind of reminded me of that trip: whatever I was expecting of these wines, they weren’t it. I’ve had wines from Texas before –some good, some bad– but most of them have been on the big, intense side. These wines had fruit that reflected the warm climate, but they weren’t over-the-top intense. They were elegant, and yet also spoke of the rustic terroir. This is particularly true perhaps the Aglianico I received, which I’ll be focusing on today.

But before we get to the wine, let’s talk about Texas wine country. You might be thinking, they make wine in Texas?!” – yeah, actually they make wine in all 50 states. Texas actually is the 5th in the US in terms of production, and its history dates back to the mid 1600’s when wine was made here by Franciscan priests.

Apparently, the entire wine drinking world today owes a collective debt of gratitude to a Texan. In the late 1800’s T.V. Munson of Denison, Texas established a vineyard in which he conducted research, experimented, bred vines, and also had a commercial nursery. He had one of the greatest private plant breeding programs ever developed. Here, he was able to make his most important contribution to the wine world.

Just at this time, Europe’s vineyards were being decimated by phylloxera. T.V. worked with the French wine industry to develop the phylloxera resistant rootstocks that would save the industry. Once they figured out that the problem was due to a pesky insect, and that American rootstocks were resistant, the work of grafting vitis vinifera vines onto resistant rootstocks occurred here. Munson organized dozens of workers and land owners to collect dormant cuttings for shipment to southern France. These vines became the breeding stock for the rootstocks that saved Europe’s industry!



Map borrowed from this site.

Today, Texas is home to over 400 wineries and over
4,550 acres planted under vine. It has eight AVA’s, the largest of which is the Texas Hill Country. It has two sub-regions, Bell Mountain and Fredericksburg in the Texas Hill Country. The others are Escondido Valley, Mesilla Valley, Texas Davis Mountains, Texas High Plains, and Texoma.

 

THE WINE & PAIRING

 

Duchman Family Winery is located in the Texas Hill Country, but sources most of its fruit from the Texas High Plains AVA, where temperatures are a bit cooler. This area is generally developing a reputation as one of Texas' best areas for fine wine. The winery was founded in 2004 by Drs. Lisa and Stan Duchman. They love Italian grape varieties and saw similarities between the climate and weather patterns of parts of Italy and parts of Texas, in particular the Texas High Plains. They hired a viticultural consultant, Bobby Cox, and winemakers, Dave Reilly (current head winemaker) and Mark Penna, to make the dream a reality.

Today, we’re looking the Duchman Family Winery Aglianico Oswald Vineyard 2015. Aglianico is grape from southern Italy that tends to make really big, bold wines that are high in tannin and acid. We’ve explored Aglianico from its home country before on the blog, so invite you check that out here.

(BTW: If you’re wondering how to pronounce it, listen in here.)

The choice to plant Aglianico in Texas makes a lot of sense to me, since it’s a grape that likes to be warm and dry. I expected deep, dark juice to pour out when we opened the bottle, much like what I’m used to from Italy; instead it was considerably lighter and more translucent in the glass than I thought it’d be. I was intrigued. 



Disclosure: While these wines were provided as media samples, all opinions are my own and no other compensation was received.

Greg and I picked up notes of dusty cherries, warm earth, pomegranate, orange rind and flowers on the nose. We got similar notes on the palate, along with bramble, dried herbs, cola, cloves, and quite a bit of earthiness that was kind of silty with a mix of sand and stones. On the palate the cherries were somewhat dried, and Greg also picked up on some dried apricot notes, which clicked for me once he said it. It had medium, but perceptible acidity, and medium, chalky tannins. The wine is high in alcohol, but didn’t feel overpowering — it felt more medium bodied, although it rounded out and felt fuller once it had gotten some air. Besides the earthy notes, there was also a good amount of delicacy and finesse to the wine.

Given that we were having a wine from Texas, I thought it’d be fun to make a brisket. After tasting the wine though, we decided that my normal ideas brisket didn’t seem quite right. (Maybe if I had a smoker  . . .) This wine was talking of Texas and Italy, mixing a little of both, and still kind of doing its own thing.

I decided to make the brisket in our Instant Pot, for easier weeknight cooking. I found this recipe on the Spruce Eats, which served as a blueprint, but then I applied flavors we thought would work after tasting the wine.  I also served us some roasted vegetable and salad on the side.

The result was fantastic. Greg thought the tannin came out to play a little more in the match, but in a good way. I thought the combo teased out more savory tobacco and herb notes in the wine. Altogether, it was a pretty seamless combo. Bonus, the brisket leftovers are delicious in lots of different ways!

I also received a bottle of Roussanne from Duchman, which I also really enjoyed, and shared in a pairing with Chicken with Lemon and Leeks on Nibbling Gypsy.



OTHER POSSIBILITIES



Look for medium to full bodied red wines with a balance of fruit and earthiness to pair with this dish. I’m thinking Barbara or Temporarily might make other good options.

I think this wine would be pretty versatile, but keep it savory. It liked the meat, tomatoes, and herbs in this dish.

 

THE GEEKY DETAILS


I couldn’t find a tech sheet, so we’ll keep this short and sweet today. Alcohol is 14.4%.

 

MONEY TALK


This bottle is priced at $30 on their website, which I think is a Solid Buy.


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Somm's Table 2017