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Perfect pairings from the other side of the equation.

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Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.
 
If there is one class of soils that settles the question of if you can taste terroir for me personally, it has to be volcanic soils. Maybe it’s possible that the vines themselves feel the thrill of growing around volcanoes because there just tends to be an energy in wines from volcanic regions that really set them apart. Italy has its fair share of these with many areas boasting volcanic soils running up and down the country, however, the largest active volcano today is Sicily’s Mount Etna. Today we’re going to better get to know this volcanic region (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013) and its grapes a bit better through the wines of Tenuta di Fessina.

Note: The wines in today’s post were provided as media samples. No other compensation was received and all opinions are my own.

This isn’t the first time we’ve explored Sicily or even Mount Etna on this blog. In fact, to get an idea of the difficulties of growing vines on an active volcano, I invite you to check out this post. The volcano definitely affects the vines as well, and it comes through in the flavor of the wines. This quote from an article on Bloomberg.com entitled Boom: Volcanic Wines Are Heating Up Around the Globe describes the effects on the wines:
 
Wines from the several types of volcanic soils—lava, pumice, ash, basalt, and more—can vary widely, but most share complex aromas, mouthwatering high acidity, and salty, savory, earthy flavors. The porosity of these soils stores more water, which contributes to the wines’ characteristic freshness and exuberance.
 
Personally, I often register a lot of minerality from volcanic wines. Sometimes it comes across as a salty factor as mentioned above, other times there’s flintiness to the wine, or even smoke or full-on charcoal, and sometimes it’s a mix. As a lover of high-acid wines myself, I definitely appreciate and love the freshness that tends to go hand-in-hand with volcanic wines.

There are some additional bonuses to volcanic soils as well. For one thing, that pesky louse, phylloxera,  doesn’t do well in volcanic soils, so that’s one headache growers don’t have to worry about, and vines can even remain on their own rootstock. A lot of volcanic areas are on terrains that are difficult to mechanize, which means that they have to be worked by hand. While that particular aspect might make life harder on growers, it can work out to be a benefit for consumers since care must be taken while tending to the vines.

Of course, there is more to “terroir” than just soil. The weather, climate, elevation, and other aspects of the terrain, as well as many other factors all certainly have a part to play, but this is one soil that IMHO makes itself known. The volcano affects other aspects of the terroir as well.  The crags and slopes of any mountain help to create many microclimates. On Mount Etna, this is anything  but constant. Etna is an effusive volcano, which means that it's releasing gas and erupting on a pretty regular basis, rather building up pressure for many years before then having a huge explosive eruption. This is ultimately less devastating, but it also means that the landscape is being reshaped on a regular basis.

Etna currently stands at 3,326 m / 10,912 ft (some sources give the height at  3,350 m / 10,990 ft, and in truth, it’s actually constantly changing given the ash and lava), and you can probably guess that the elevation has a cooling effect. The highest of Etna’s vineyards are among the highest in Italy and even the world, and more and more winemakers are experimenting with planting vines at higher altitudes here.

Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.
 
The vineyards on the volcano curve around its eastern side which faces the Mediterranean, running between the towns of Randazzo on the north side and Santa Maria Licodia on the south side. Vineyard areas on different parts of the mountain have different microclimates. The north side of the volcano is colder, windier, and even gets a fair amount of snow, while the south is sunnier but also gets more rain.

The interplay between the mountain and the sea is also important. Growers celebrate the way the water from the sea reflects light back up to the vines. Most of Sicily has no issue with ripening grapes given it’s warm climate, but this effect is beneficial for those vines that keep creeping further up the volcano.  

Sicily’s climate, in general, is pretty ideal for growing grapes. In addition to being warm and fairly dry, it’s also petty breezy which makes it a lot easier to keep vines healthy and free from many diseases and molds. That makes it a lot easier to grow grapes sustainably without the use of sprays. A big bonus!


TENUTA DI FESSINA


Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.


Silvia Maestrelli is the woman behind today’s wines. She comes from an entrepreneurial Florentine family. She apparently brought that entrepreneurial spirit with her when she moved to Etna in 2006 and she started Tenuta di Fessina in 2007 after falling in love with the land. She brought on consultants and collaborators, including winemaker Federico Curtaz, to help her build her project. The volcano plays an important to her vision and winemaking philosophy as she says, “I look up to Mount Etna like a daughter would look up to a mother.”

Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.

It also literally has shaped the vineyards. The winery is based in Rovitello and has seventeen acres of vineyards there (2,200 feet), as well as six acres between Milo and Santa Maria di Licodìa (3,280 feet). The vineyards in Rovitello are located between two ancient semicircular lava flows of the past that act like walls that isolate the vineyard, much like a French "clos."

Having vineyards on both sides of the mountain allows Tentua di Fessina to produce excellent expressions of the various indigenous varieties – and they work exclusively with indigenous grapes. Red grapes like Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and the rare variety of Minnella, do well on the north side, while white varieties, do well on the south side. Carricante in particular is able to acquire both minerality and roundness, which complements its structural acidity.
            
I admit that I can’t quite tell from their website and press materials what farming methods they use, but as best I can make out they only intervene in the vineyards when necessary. All farming is done by hand, and as a rule all of Etna is dry-farmed. The age of their vines vary between 70 and 110 years old.

Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.


A little daydream fodder for those of us anxiously awaiting the day we can travel again – the winery has seven guestrooms inside a 17th-century structure on the property.

Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.



THE GRAPES

 
Tenuta di Fessina only works with indigenous grapes, so here’s a quick primer on some of the varieties in the wines we’ll be looking at today.

Whites


Carricante: An ancient white wine grape variety that’s believed to have been grown on  to Mount Etna for at least a thousand years. It’s known for having high acidity and often has a marked mineral note in the best examples. As far as fruit notes, you’re likely to find any or all members of the citrus family in your glass, along with hints of herb note. Carricante is the key player in white wines falling under the Etna DOC title. A minimum of 60% is required for standard Etna Bianco, and it’s bumped up to 80% in Etna Bianco Superiore.

Catarratto: This is the most planted grape in Sicily, and it’s rare to find anywhere else. It has tends to have lower acidity than Carricante and show notes of citrus, melon, herbs, and white flowers. You’re also likely to find it in Marsala wines.


Reds


Nero d’Avola: This is Sicily’s  most planted and celebrated red grapes. It tends to make wines with deep color and flavor, juicy acidity, and soft-to-medium tannins. You’ll find fruit notes ranging from bright red strawberries and sour cherries, to darker red and black berry notes. You’re also likely to find red floral notes, as well as sweet spices and licorice. Styles can range from easygoing, to much more serious and brooding bottles that beg for aging.

Nerello Mascalese: This is the second most planted red grape, but it’s popularity has been growing in recent years. It does particularly well in Mount Etna’s volcanic soils. It makes fresh, fruity wines with herbal notes, and lots of earthy minerality.

Nerello Cappuccio:
You’ll usually find this grape blended with Nerello Mascalese as it can help soften some of it edges, as well as adding color and perfume. You don’t find it on its own that often. It too does well on Etna’s volcanic soils, and particularly likes the higher altitudes. It shows cherry notes on the palate, and typically has lots of acidity and tannin.


                            

WINES & PAIRINGS


Over the last few months I’ve had the opportunity to try several wines from Tenuta di Fessina’s various lines, giving me the chance to explore many of Etna’s indigenous grapes as interpreted by one producer.

Here are a few of the wines and pairings we’ve enjoyed. I think you’ll see the volcanic notes play out in the tasting notes through minerality expressed in these wines. Also, you’ll notice that all of the wine names come from Greek and Roman references, which I find fun.

We’ve tried the white, the rosato, and the rosso from the Erse line, which is named for the Greek goddess of dew. These wines are made in a fresh style and are meant to be enjoyed young. The SRP on these is $24.99.

 
We enjoyed the Erse Etna Bianco 2017 (90% Carricante, 10% Catarratto & Minella) with a roast chicken dinner (mentioned here). It showed notes of bright citrus, accompanied by herbs. It rounded out in the mid-palate, before heading into a flinty finish. It was a nice alternative to Chardonnay (my usual roast chicken go-to) since it had that bit of roundness to stand up the chicken. This would also be a no-brainer for grilled seafood dishes thanks to all that minerality and citrus. (Geeky details here.)


 
I’ve really enjoyed the Erse Etna Rosato 2018!  (Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio.) It has a wonderful mix of juicy fruits and substantial structure. It showed bright red fruit notes, orange zest, and a slight hint of herbs. It was also quite structured and finished with a smoky, stony note. I mentioned in this recent post on rosé, that I really enjoyed it with a spread that included collard greens with smoky ham hocks, since the flavors played off of each other really well. I also recently had a bottle over a dinner with friends and tried it with Caprese salad and a light pasta dish that included asparagus with parmesan. It played nicely with everything, even the asparagus which can be tricky at times. I think it would also be a natural match for salumi. (Geeky details here.)

 

Erse Etna Rosso 2016 (90% Nerello Mascalese, 8% Nerello Cappuccio, and 2% Minnella & Carricante) was a medium-bodied and a nice balance of lively red fruits, earthiness, smoke, and a little anise seed. This was perfect with Eggplant Lasagna. (Geeky details here.)
 
Now we have a couple of high-low pizza pairings. Pizza dough has been a big project of mine during these last few months at home. Sometimes after putting in the work, I feel I deserve something a little nicer to go with it!
     

First up, the Laeneo Sicilia IGT 2017 (SRP $41.99, 100% Nerello Cappuccio). This wine is named for the bacchanal gatherings in honor of Dionysus in ancient Athens – and I am certainly a devotee of Dionysus. This wine showed notes of sour cherries, along with some riper red fruit notes to round it out, a little pepper, herbs, and smoky fennel salami, backed up by a little stone. It actually was a fantastic match with my sausage pizza. (Geeky details here.)


 a'Puddara Etna Bianco with Sficone


And finally, my spotlight wine today is the a'Puddara Etna Bianco 2017 (SRP $65.99). This wine is dedicated to Sicily and the name is a reference from Ovid and to the Pleiades that look over Sicily.



Nose: Grilled lemons, apples, and small white flowers.
Palate: All come back on the palate, but the fruit gets rounder and riper and is joined by notes of stone fruit. It’s complex with hints of herbs, Parmesan cheese rind, as well as flinty stoniness on the finish. It was on the light end of medium-bodied, but with a creamy texture to the midpalate lifted by plenty of fresh acidity, riding through to a flinty, stony finish.

Geeky details taken from the tech sheet.

BLEND: Carricante100%
PRODUCTION AREA: Biancavilla, Contrada Manzudda. The Biancavilla area is characterized by areas composed of small volcanoes and craters from remote eras now extinct, these led to the formation of limestone caves and a terroir composed mainly of clayey particles, lapilli leftovers, sand, and volcanic ash. There are small fractions of potassium, basaltic lavas, and ancient tuffs. The thermal excursion is sudden and wider than the north side, it is such that it reaches 86°F giving, with the fine and sandy skeleton, a vertical elegance and a unique strong minerality, that if combined with the high rates to the genotypic acidity of the indigenous varieties guarantee a very high aging potential for the Carricante, Nerello Mascalese, and Nerello Cappuccio grapes.

VINEYARD PLANTED: 1950
EXPOSITION: South
ALTITUDE: 2950 ft
VINIFICATION: Crushing without de-stemming after careful selection of the grapes in the vineyard and on the sorting belt in the cellar, soft pressing with separation of the musts, cold static decantation
FERMENTATION: direct fermentation in 3500 liter French oak barrels
AGING: Refined on the lees for 6-8 months
Alc: 12.5%

For this pairing, I decided to look to The Heart of Sicily for inspiration. I have a weakness for cookbooks and have way more than I should. In addition to actually buying them, I find it hard to resist them when someone’s giving them away, so I have a bunch that I no longer have a clue where they came from. This happens to be one of those books, but it turns out it was written by Anna Tasca Lanza whose family owns Tasca d’Almerita, another excellent Sicilian winery.  The book is organized by seasons and so I picked two out of the fall section – one to pair with this wine and one to pair with Tenuta di Fessina’s Il Musmeci Etna Rosso Riserva 2012 which I’ll be sharing very soon. 


I decided to adapt a recipe for Sficone, a Sicilian pizza, just because I couldn’t resist. This is a super cheesy version with caramelized onions and a little anchovy mixed in, although you really don’t taste them – they just add a little something to the background. When I say it’s super cheesy, I mean SUPER cheesy. It uses five different cheeses and I think I used maybe half the total quantity called for –– it was still incredibly decadent. We LOVED it! We typically go for thin crust pizzas around here, but couldn’t get enough of this thick, biscuity crust. The pairing was also wonderful. The cheese and a crust brought out the rounder side of the wine, and that hint of anchovy spoke to the salinity in the wine. Meanwhile, the citrus notes in the wine refreshed the palate between each decadent bite. The food and the wine elevated each other in the match, each making the other more luscious. This pizza pairing was on another level. 


 
 
Pizza
dinner, lunch, appetizers
Italian
Servings: 6 large slices or 12 appetizer-sized slice
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson, Recipe adapted from The Heart of Sicily by Anna Tasca Lanza
Print
Cheese Sficone with Onions

Cheese Sficone with Onions

Prep Time: 10 MinCooking Time: 2 Hourinactive time: 50 MinTotal Time: 2 Hours 10 Min
This is a super cheesy Sicilian style pizza. The original recipe called for A LOT – I used about 1/2 to 2/3 of the quantity asked for on this pie. Here I've given a range, so basically use as much as suits you.

Ingredients

For the dough
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup semolina flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 (¼ ouce) package of dry yeast
  • 1 cup warm water
  • 1 egg
  • 2 Tbsp butter, diced
For the toppings
  • 2 medium onions, thinly sliced or diced (pick your textural preference, I went with diced)
  • Olive oil, as needed
  • 4 anchovy fillets, minced, or 1 tsp anchovy paste
  • 8 oz fresh mozzarella, sliced
  • ½ cup to 1 cup shredded Emmentaler
  • ½ cup to 1 cup shredded Gouda
  • ¼ to ½ cup grated Parmesan
  • ⅛ to ¼ cup grated Pecorino or Caciocavallo
  • 2 to 3 Tbsp dried oregano
  • Breadcrumbs, for topping
  • Salt, to taste
  • Pepper, to taste

Instructions

  1. Combine the flours in a bowl with the salt. Make a well in the center, then add the yeast, water, egg, and butter. Work the dough until it begins to come together, then blend in a mixer using the dough hook attachment for about 10 minutes, until the dough becomes smooth and elastic. Alternatively, turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead by hand. It’ll initially be wet, then start to become smooth after 3 to 4 minutes, and smooth and elastic after 10 to 15 minutes. Allow the dough to rest for about 15 minutes so that it’s easier to work with.
  2. Sauté the onions in a generous amount of olive oil over medium heat until they begin to turn golden and lightly caramelized – about 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the anchovies or anchovy paste and season with salt and pepper.
  3. Oil a 9 x12-inch rimmed baking sheet drizzled with olive oil. Roll out the dough and shape to fit the pan. Spread the onion and anchovy mixture. Place the slices of mozzarella across the pizza, follow with the Emmentaler and Gouda, then Parmesan and Pecorino –– use as much cheese as is to your liking. Sprinkle the oregano and bread crumbs on top. Press the ingredients into the dough, cover with a kitchen towel, then put it in a warm spot and allow it to rise until doubled, about 45 minutes.
  4. Preheat oven to 400°F.
  5. Place the Sficone in the oven and bake until the cheese has melted and the crust is golden brown underneath – about 35 to 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand for 15 minutes, then cut into pieces and serve.
https://www.sommstable.com/2020/10/exploring-etna-with-tenuta-di-fessina.html
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*****
 
For more on Sicily, check out these posts:
  • Cooking to the Wine: Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Sicilia Rosso with Creamy Eggplant and Tomato Zoodles
  • A Passion for Sicily with Passopisciaro: An Interview with Sarah H. Bray, Part 1  
  • A Passion for Sicily with Passopisciaro: An Interview with Sarah H. Bray, Part 2  

*****
 
The rest of the Italian Food, Wine, Travel (#ItalianFWT) blogging group is exploring Italian wines from volcanic regions. Explore these fascinating areas by checking out their posts here:
  • Camilla at the Culinary Adventures with Camilla features A Single-Varietal Carricante, an Etna Exclusive, & Lapsang Souchong-Braised Duck Legs.
  • Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm declares Grapes Grown in Volcanic Soil Produce a HOT Wine!!!
  • Gwendolyn of Wine Predator has you Meet Mt Etna’s Volcanic Wines: Sicily’s Tenuta Monte Gorna and Tenuta di Fessina with Pairings.
  • Lynn at Savor the Harvest writes about Volcanic Wine in the Veneto.
  • Terri at Our Good Life shares Ashes to Ashes: Volcanic Wine and Sicilian Lentil Soup.
  • Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles offers Mount Etna – The Awesome Power of Active Volcanos, and Yes, Red Wine with Fish.
  • Linda at My Full Wine Glass discusses the wines of Benanti – Capturing the Soul of Mount Etna Wine.
  • Susannah at Avvinare is Exploring the Colli Berici in the Veneto.
  • Cindy at Grape Experiences shares Personality, Elegance, Value: Tenuta Tascante Ghiaia Nera 2017 from Etna DOC.
  • Nicole at Somm's Table is Exploring Etna with Tenuta di Fessina
  • Jen, our host, at Vino Travels posts Fried Eggplant Topped with Fresh Tomatoes and Ricotta Paired with I Custodi Etna Rosso.
 

Additional reading and sources used for this post

  • Wine Enthusiast: A Beginner’s Guide to the Wines of Sicily 
  • The Tasting Panel: 10 Things to Know About Sicilian Wine 
  • Forbes: How Volcanic Soils Halted A Winemaking Scourge On Sicily’s Mount Etna 
  • NY Times: Etna Fumes and Spews, but the Winemaking Goes On
  • Wines of Sicily
  • Food & Wine: Volcanic Wine 101: What You Need to Know About This Booming Category 
  • What makes the wines of Etna so special? 
  • Saveur: 10 Fantastic Sicilian Wines
  • JJ Buckley:Volcanic Soils and their Effect on Wine 
  • Wine; Tasted!: The Contrada system on Mount Etna 
  • Wine-Searcher.com

 

This post contains affiliate links, including these Amazon links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you. 

 


 

It’s easy to love rosé in the summertime and I know summer has drawn to a close. We're now well past Labor Day, but I’m definitely not one of those to put away the pinks after the summer is over –– and it’s actually still quite warm out in California anyway! In any case, rosés are just too useful for pairing purposes to be benched the entire rest of the year.

Rosés fit into a space where they’re able to pair with lots of different dishes that are otherwise tricky to work with precisely because they straddle the color lines of wine – much like orange wines and light reds. My experiment with Côtes du Rhônes of different colors that I shared last week was a great reminder that pinks are a great bet when you don’t know what to pair with a dish.

Today, I thought I’d share a broad round-up of rosés, along with some of these situations where they often come to the rescuce, and a look at why they work. In looking through pictures, I’ve found that there are a few broad categories where I tend to reach for rosés again and again, and they’re categories of food that we tend to eat all year round.

Note: Some wines in this post were provided as media samples. No other compensation was received and all opinions are my own. 

 

Light Meats


Chicken, pork, and other meats and poultry that are on the lighter end of the spectrum can work with a broad range of toppings and sauces. Light and bright preparations can be overpowered by, or even downright clash with big reds. It’s actually a better bet to pair to the sauce or toppings where these lighter meats are involved. Rosés, however, pretty much take the guesswork out of the pairing, because they’re likely to work solidly well regardless of the topping – they typically have the freshness to work with even a lemony dish, but can also often stand up to a more intense preparation, particularly if you pick a style with a little more structure. 



This Arnot-Roberts Touriga Nacional Rosé 2018 (Avg price $29) a fun, New World take on a Portuguese grape. It had notes of orange blossoms, a mix of citrus, peaches, cherries, and tart strawberries, with light herbal notes. It's light on it's feet and had plenty of freshness, but had a little tannic grip on the finish. We had with fried chicken take-out and I thought it worked really well with the chicken itself as well as with the savory sides. Admittedly, it didn't work as well with sweeter sides like yams. 



This Tenuta di Fessina Erse Etna Rosato 2018 (sample) is great choice for richer chicken and light meat dishes because it's a bit fuller and more structured than other rosés. It has notes of juicy cherries, accompanied by orange zest and herbs, and definitely has a little tannin. It worked really well with a spread of chicken, rich collard greens, and cornbread. I particularly liked it with the collard greens with their mix of vegetal and smoky, meat notes.


Sausages are regular weeknight go-to's around here, and they definitely fall into this middle-weight meat camp, particularly chicken sausages. I also often pair them with vegetables of different kinds and rosé works easily with lots of veggies as well. Here are three cases: Chateau de Berne Cotes de Provence Inspiration 2018 (sample, avg. price $20) worked beautifully with a sausage dish alongside kale, tomatoes, and lentils; Côte West Mounts Vineyard Rosé of Counoise 2018 ($25) had bright notes of tangerines, pink grapefruit, peaches and strawberries and worked nicely with chicken sausage and braised cabbage with cornbread croutons; Domaine du Pegau Pink Pegau Rosé 2016 is a bit of a richer style of French rosé and paired up nicely with a creamy sausage casserole. 


Hearty Seafood Dishes


The rule of thumb dictates the white wines are the go-to’s when seafod is involved, since the tannins in red wines tend to clash with the proteins and oils in seafood, even while the work magically with those in meats.  This isn’t a hard and fast rule, and there are definitely lots of reds that can work quite well with certain seafood dishes. However, if you’re not sure which ones are likely to work, but you have a seafood dish that seems to be begging for something a little deeper than a light white, once again rosé is a good bet.

Three delicious seafood and rosé pairings from three local wineries: Lusu Cellars Single Leaf Cellars El Dorado Rosé 2016 with a citrus roasted salmon and Brussels sprouts with bacon; another rosé from Côte West (they make three) this one of Zinfandel ($22) with BBQ seasoned salmon with broccoli; Vinca Minor Carignan Rosé Redwood Valley 2019 ($25, sample) with sheet pan shrimp with roasted peppers and onions (although you can't see them clearly).



Light Pasta, Pizzas, and Quiche


Pasta and pizzas that have lighter toppings are in a similar boat to the situations described above. The carbs give them some richness, but the toppings might not have the heft to stand up to a bigger red wine. Pinks are once again an easy choice. 

Rosés from Provence tend to be light, crisp, minerally, with light floral notes. I think they tend to go well with pasta dishes that are veggie-driven and that have lots of savory herbal notes, like this Chateau de Berne Cotes de Provence Emotion Rosé 2017 (sample, avg. price $17) which was paired with fusilli with mixed summer squash and Parmesan.

 
 
This Tablas Creek Vineyards Patelin de Tablas Rosé 2018  (sample, avg. price $23) is made here in California, but very much with French sensibility. California's sunshine leads to riper fruit. The result here is that while the wine is made with the French style in mind, it's a little rounder than the version from Provence above. It made a delicious match for a richer chicken ragu on black bean pasta with lots of herbs.

Just for fun, I'll share this Instagram story I shared a while back with emoji tasting notes.




We also often have spaghetti squash around here in place of pasta, but similar ideas apply. The Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Rosé 2017 (avg. price $18) was lovely with the spaghetti squash topped with chicken, kale, herbs, and Parmesan, while a bottle of Birichino Vin Gris Rosé 2019  (avg. price $18) from here in California, with notes of stone fruits, sweet cherries, guava, lots of flowers, and a savory finish of herbs and stones, was tasty with a comparatively richer plate of Spaghetti Squash Carbonara.

 

This crab mac and cheese with bacon (recipe on NibblingGypsy.com ) is definitely decadent. These two rosés from Vital in Washington  (sample, $19)  and Twill Cellars in Willamette Valley,  Oregon ($20)  both had a lightly creamy texture which rounded out fruity palates and made excellent matches for the rich dish.

Vital winery is an interesting project. They're a non-profit in support of better healthcare for vineyard and cellar workers. 

All of the wines in  Poe Wine's Ultraviolet line are go-to's for me as they're great values hovering just around $15. This 2018 rosé was no exception and was delicious with butternut squash and bacon pizza.

Quiche is a similar case to a lot of the dishes mentioned above. It's got richness, but the flavor could easily be overpowered by a big red. A rosé matches the weight of the dish well without overwhelming it. This Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Rosé Franschhoek Valley, South Africa 2018 (sample, avg price $14) was ideal with a quiche stuffed with onions, cauliflower, and mushrooms.


Mexican and South American Cuisines


These cuisines are a slightly different case. Here you often have many different flavors occurring in one dish. You might have steak, but it’s flavored with lots of bright citrus, plus lots of herbs a veggies. Alternatively, you might have light meats or seafood combined with richer elements like beans. Rosés tend to be able to bridge these different flavors. One note, if you have a dish with lots heat, you might want to opt for a fruitier rosé as it will help tame the heat better.


These nachos were fully loaded with all kinds of toppings. The Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Mourvedre Rosé 2018  (sample, avg. price $13) was up to the challenge. Mourvedré's smoky character came through and matched beautifully with the steak included in this fabulous mess we made one night at the Culinary Cabin.


 

The old pairing adage "what grows together goes together" definitely held true for this bottle Las Nubes Bodegas y Vinedos Jaak Rose Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico 2018  of ordered to go with a spread at Calavera Mexican Kitchen& Bar in Oakland.


While we were in San Diego visiting my in-laws recently, my mother-in-law made a version of Ajiaco, a traditional Colombian chicken stew we’d had during our wedding week in Medellin  – a long time ago now! I opened a bottle of Jaimee Motley Wines Mondeuse Rosé 2019   (sample, $24 ) to go with it.  It made such a lovely pairing as the brightness of the wine worked really well with the citrus and tomato notes in the dish, and as it's a bigger style of rosé (at least when compared to the light Provençal styles) it also worked really well with richer elements in the dish. This meal also brought back lots of happy memories in the process. Fun fact, the grapes for this wine come from the Rorick Heritage Vineyard we visited in this post.
 



Asian Cuisines


Similar elements are at play with Asian cuisines which also often have many different spices and flavor components at work in a dish or on the table at one time. Off-dry Rieslings (or other off-dry white wines) or a fruity bubbly like Prosecco tend to be my preference with sweeter dishes or more firey cuisines like Sichuan, but I often enjoy rosés with cuisines that aren’t toooooo sweet or spicy and still have many flavors in the mix. It’s likewise a good option if off-dry wines just aren’t to your taste. In general, I’d again recommend fruitier styles to work with dishes with some heat in the mix.

KPOP Wine Rosé of Barbera Testa Vinayard, Medocino County 2018 was a lovely combination of fresh and savory and made a delicious match for a crazy noodle stir-fry I made out of bool kogi with a bunch of bits and pieces and a mix of sauces. 
 
LVE Legend Vineyard  French Sparkling Rose NV (avg. price $17)  made a refreshing partner to our favorite Laotian take-out.
 
Both  Weingut Leitz Pinot Noir Rose Rheingau, Germany 2019  (I usually see this for around $18) and Tessier's Femme Fatale Rosé 2019 are lively, playful rosés with tangy fruit notes and are regular favorites of mine and made delicious matches for not-too-sweet, homemade takes on Pad Thai. Read more about Tessier's winemaker Kristie Tacey in this interview post here.)

This pairing for Chateau de Berne Inspiration Côtes de Provence Rosé 2019 (sample) came as a bit of surprise. We'd made meatballs in  Japanese curry with roasted broccoli and grabbed this bottle on a slight gamble. It paid off and the typically light rosé with notes of underripe strawberries, peach, pink grapefruit, with herbs on the finish got rounder and fruitier with the food.

 

 

Of course, rosés are perfectly paired with bright, sunny days  on their own as well, but that nearly goes without saying. August Kessler Pinot Noir Rosé Rheingau Germany 2019  (sample)  and CARBONISTE'S Sea Urchin Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir 2019($28) are two I've kicked back with on more than one occasion.


The main take away here is that rosés can bridge lots of flavors and textures in foods we enjoy year round, so don’t put them away permanently during the chillier months. Moreover, these same qualities make them perfect for holiday spreads where you have all kinds of dishes on the table at once!

Just a few more pinks to look out for: Cattleya 'Alma de Cattleya' Rose of Pinot Noir Sonoma County, Mountain Tides Wine Co. Clements Hills Rosé California, Unti Vineyards Rosé Dry Creek Valley, and A Tribute to Grace Rose of Grenache Santa Barbara County.



*****


As I've been writing this post, fires are once again raging across Napa and Sonoma. Many historical wineries have been burned to the ground or having sustained damage, including Shramsberg whose Brut Rosé I was just enjoying over the weekend with my friend Kristie, whose rosé is mentioned above. California is certainly not alone. I've heard that Twill Cellars, also mentioned above, has suffered major losses in Oregon. 

I'm certain these aren't the only ones, as the fires are continuing to burn here and many don't know the extent of damage as of yet. 

Certainly, this is not what I had in mind when I set out to write a post on rosé, which for me is almost always a wine that goes with happy times, but this is where climate change has left us and it's terrifying. 

If you're inclined to help, this page has a list of resources for California's wildfire relief and the American Red Cross is collecting funds for fires affecting all of the Western states. Buying wines from affected wineries directly benefits them as well.


For more pink inspiration, check out these posts and recipes related to rosé:

  • 2 oz Pours: Warm Weather Vibes 
  • 2 oz Pours: 16 French Wine Values  
  • 2 oz Pours: Looking at the World Through Rosé Colored Glasses  
  • 2 oz Pours: Campsite Dining  
  • Cooking to the Wine: Ultimate Provence Urban Rosé with Herbed Sous Vide Chicken Breasts and Roasted Eggplant Sheet Pan 
  • Trekking Out with Canned Wines  
  • Crémants for Going Out and Staying In (Psst! They're Your New All-Purpose Bubblies!)  
  • The Ladies of Laurent-Perrier and an Anniversary Toast  
  • Memories of New Zealand’s South Island with Waipapa Bay Wines (#WinePW)  
  • Thanksgiving Pairing Guide Round-Up  
  • Just a Little Bit Fancy: Delamotte Brut Rosé Champagne & Crudo  
  • Cooking to the Wine: Clos Cibonne Tibouren Cuvée Tradition Rosé & Savory Citrus Chicken with Couscous  
  • Marenco Pineto Brachetto d'Acqui and a Simple Strawberry Treat 
  • Cheese, Charcuterie, Ciabatta & Praesidium Cerasuolo 
  • All the Colors of Côtes du Rhône with Famille Perrin 
  • Exploring Etna with Tenuta di Fessina  
  • 8 & $20: Seared Scallops With Creamy Cheddar-Jalapeño Corn 
  • 8 & $20: Beet Risotto with Herbed Chicken Tenders
  • 8 & $20: Turkey and Strawberry Salad with Baked Goat Cheese 
  • 8 & $20: Pork Flautas with Guacamole and Rosé 
  • 8 & $20: Roasted Spaghetti Squash Carbonara 
  • 8 & $20: Salmon and Goat Cheese Puffs 
  • Sunday, December 31, 2017 4-Layer Caviar Dip with Potato Chips and Other Happy New Year's Appies!  


 

This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.

 

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Somm's Table 2017