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The wine in this post was provided as a media sample. No other compensation was received.

 

Almost exactly a year ago I shared a post called Napa History with Gamble Family Wines & a Lamb Feast with Friends about a wonderful dinner party we’d had in the Before Times. I invite you to take a look at that post to get to know the winery, but there was one piece of Gamble’s story that I didn’t get to share in that post that I’ve been wanting to come back to since then, and it seems perfect to share during Women’s History Month. 



Mary Ann McGuire, owner Tom Gamble’s mother, played an integral role in the history of Napa Valley as a driving force in establishing the 1968 Napa Valley Agricultural Preserve. I had the chance to speak with Mary Ann a couple of years ago, and then recently had the chance to participate in a virtual tasting with Tom and Mary Ann to delve even deeper into the story. I found her incredibly inspiring. 


 

Mary Ann was born in Oakland – where I currently live – and grew up in the East Bay. In 1960, she married George Gamble, a Napa County cattle rancher, and moved to the valley. The Gambles felt a strong responsibility to be good stewards of the land.

Circumstances would soon galvanize that feeling of connection and duty to the land into action. One has to recall that in the 1960s Napa was not the bucolic yet posh destination it is today – it was still very rural, full stop. However, modernization was coming, but perhaps not in ways that kept an eye on conservation. The US Army Corps of Engineers and the California Department of Transportation were laying down plans that in combination would strip Napa Valley’s waterways and construct a six-lane freeway through Mt. St. Helena that would destroy hundreds of acres of farmland and wildlife. They began to see the negative effects of these plans on the land when in 1965, the Army Corps of Engineers stripped all living vegetation from the banks of Conn Creek which runs through the Gamble Ranch in Oakville.

Mary Ann went to work helping to organize a sizeable coalition to protest the freeway plans and the further river paving. The efforts from Mary Ann and the other participating families (among them, several other famous names tied to historic wineries) were extremely grassroots relying on phone trees and using up shoe leather:

"When we arrived in the Napa Valley, we saw it as a bountiful garden. For 10,000 years, this sacred land was historically cared for by the indigenous inhabitants of Napa, including the Onasatis (Wappo) Peoples. We felt we had the moral imperative to preserve that legacy. We drove house to house, we’d load the kids up and knock-on doors trying to convince people to create a good future for this land,” says Mary Ann.


Saving the land also required grit, determination, and audacious courage. Mary Ann adds:

“One day I looked out my car window, and I saw these huge earth movers had returned and were tearing up the land by the river. I reacted instinctively,” says Mary Ann. “I parked right in front of the bulldozers and I said, ‘I'm not moving my car and if you don’t leave, I will call every newspaper and every mother in this valley and they are going to bring their babies down here and we're going to sit in front of your bulldozers.’ They left pretty quickly.”

Photo credit to Napa Valley Agricultural Preserve's website, via Jarvis Communications.

Their efforts were successful but additional threats to the valley were soon to follow. On the plus side, the families in the valley now had a framework for how to proceed, and the group she had helped form would become the core behind the establishing Napa Valley’s Ag Preserve. After their experiences with the river paving and highway initiatives, the group began to pay careful attention to how development was transforming areas of Los Angeles and the Santa Clara Valley, and several key figures in the group, including Jack and Jamie Davies of Schramsberg, began championing the idea of an agricultural preserve in 1967.

The group got to work writing a zoning proposal, petitioning the community, and speaking at meetings of the Napa Valley Board of Supervisors. The work came to fruition when the Napa Valley Agricultural Preserve was enacted with the passage of Ordinance # 274 in 1968.


Photo credit to Napa Valley Agricultural Preserve's website, via Jarvis Communications.


The landmark set of zoning laws that formed the Ag Preserve, as well as the Ag Watershed lands, established agriculture as the highest and best use of the land in Napa County, with the goal to protect agriculture in the region for future generations. It was the first zoning ordinance of its kind in the US.

Here are a few other points shared by Napa Valley Growers pertaining to the importance of the Ag Preserve:

  • Planted vineyard land makes up 9 percent of Napa County land totaling around 45,000 acres 37,100 acres of land (7.3% of the County) are protected in perpetuity through Conservation Agreements between landowners and the Land Trust of Napa County
  • Nationally, we lose nearly 40 acres of farmland every hour due to urban sprawl; however, not one acre of Ag Preserve zoned land has been lost to urban use since its adoption
  • According to the American Farmland Trust, an acre of agricultural land on average produces 58 times fewer GHG emissions than an acre of urban use.


The Ag Preserve celebrated its 50th Anniversary in 2018 and Napa would definitely not be the same without it. It has not been without controversy throughout its history for the restrictions it places on landowners, business, and development. It is also gets chipped away at fairly regularly, so it does regularly need defending. However, while visitors to Napa might find it frustrating that there aren’t more hotels available and other similar inconveniences in which the Ag Preserve does have a part to play, we can also thank it for making sure those beautiful views of vineyards and other farmlands weren’t long ago paved over for other uses.

Mary Ann, who is now 81 years old, continued to remain involved in the Napa Valley community in the decades after the Ag Preserve was established, getting involved not only in preservation efforts, but also in the arts, as well as religious and cultural efforts. She was on the founding board of the Napa Valley Performing Arts Center and was  a driving force in restoring and reopening the historic Opera House in downtown Napa, among many other projects.
 
As you can probably imagine, Mary Ann’s work couldn’t help but influence her son, Tom. He, and by extension Gamble Family Wines, has continued to be involved in sustainability efforts in Napa as well. He helped draft both Napa Green and the Fish Friendly Farming Initiative. He is also incredibly active in the Napa Valley Vintners and the Napa Valley River Restoration Project, taking up the mantle of stewarding the land he grew up on.


Tom Gamble. Photo courtesy of Jarvis Communications.

In a time when it’s really easy to be cynical about the difference one person or even a small group can have on their community and the world around them, hearing Mary Ann’s story left me feeling inspired and hopeful. I’ll leave you with one more quote from Mary Ann:

“You have to see the planet as one, as interrelated,” says Mary Ann. “What happens in the South Pole is happening to us, what happens in the rain forest happens to us. What happens in the country affects the cities, what happens in the cities affects the country. It cannot be us and them, we are interrelated, interdependent, we are one.”

Flowers outside of May Ann Gamble's house.


The Pairing

I’ve had the chance to taste and enjoy many of Gamble’s beautiful wines, but the perfect wine to showcase in this post is the one dedicated to her,  the Gamble Family Vineyards Mary Ann Mt. Veeder 2016. Tom Gamble describes his inspiration for the Mary Ann bottling on their website:

“It is with great pride that I name this wine after my mother, Mary Ann. She lives her life with loving elegance, which belies a firmness of resolve. In the face of life’s challenges, both attributes have been tested. Neither has wavered. Wine inspires and evokes memories. Marrying Merlot’s femininity and opulence with Cabernet Franc’s firm tannins and structure creates a wine that will only grow more elegant with time. As has my mother, Mary Ann.”


The Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes (there’s also a splash of Cab Sauv) for this wine were grown on Mt. Veeder, which enjoys a very different micro-climate than the valley floor. The vineyards are about the fog line and as a result grapes get lots of sunshine while maintaining acidity thanks to the elevation, as well as lots of minerality from the rocky slopes. Wines from this area tend to be powerfully structured, and I often get a hint of a pine note from wines from this area.

 


All of this held true for this wine, which I don’t think I’d have pinned as Cab Franc and Merlot in a blind tasting given that structure. I asked Greg what he thought the wine was before revealing the blend, and he guessed Syrah because it reminded him a little bit of the Northen Rhône. I could absolutely see what he meant as the wine’s structure, stony minerality, herbal profile, and black pepper notes all were a bit reminiscent of the French region, but with that ripe California fruit character.

 

On the nose, the wine showed notes of black cherry, currants, red plums, espresso, and black pepper. These were joined on the palate by that pine note I often get from Mt. Veeder, olives, bay leaf, chocolate, spices, and lots of hard stones like granite. The wine was medium+ to full bodied, with medium + tannin, and plenty of acidity to buttress the structure. I think this wine could age for a quite a while yet. While it was lovely now, it almost seemed a little too young, even after allowing it to open up and breath for a while.

In my mind, I had plans of making a beautiful handmade pasta topped with a meaty sauce to go with this wine, but life, time, and laziness got in the way. Moreover, once I opened and tasted it I was struck by that Old World earthiness as well as the herbal notes, and thought I'd steer the dish in that direction instead. I decided to create a one-pot lentil dish using lots of veggies, herbs, mushrooms, and shredded pork, since we had quite a bit on hand after our recent Pork Showdown. You can easily swap in any other protein you have available or leave it out altogether for a hearty vegetarian dish (be sure to swap in mushroom or veggie stock in this case as well). 


This is definitely a filling dish on its own that doesn’t need anything else, but I decided to serve it with some potatoes roasted with rosemary and Parmesan, and roasted carrots, which I like to get really roasty-toasty so that they’re all caramelized on the outside and super sweet on the inside.

The food and wine matched really nicely, and the homey, nurturing dish seemed appropriate to go with a wine inspired by one really impressive mother and activist.

The beautiful iridescent Aura Wine Glasses in these photos were provided by Dragon Glassware as samples. I've partnered with Dragon Glassware as an ambassador. Click here to get the glasses for yourself and use the code "NICOLE10" for 10% off. (I might receive commission through the links at no cost to you.)

Geeky Details

Taken from the wine’s tech sheet.

Average Price: $75.  

Composition: 54% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot, 11% Cabernet, Sauvignon
Appellation: Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley
Vineyard and Winemaking: The south-west facing Cabernet Franc slope was harvested on October 4. The northeast facing Merlot slope was left hanging a few days longer. Fermentations peaked at a moderate 80 F helping to preserve the delicate mountain flavors, balanced with gentle tannin extraction. The Merlot and Cabernet Franc were blended together just prior to bottling. The Merlot’s opulent dark fruit is a perfect foil for the Cabernet Franc’s firm tannic structure and red fruit character. A splash of Cabernet Sauvignon added even greater complexity.
Cooperage: 45% new French oak
Cellaring: 20 months in barrel
Alcohol: 14.2%
TA: 0.60 g/100ml
pH: 3.69


 
 
Servings: 6 to 8
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson
Lentil Pot with Mushrooms and Pork

Lentil Pot with Mushrooms and Pork

Prep Time: 10 MinCooking Time: 45 Mininactive time: 30 MinTotal Time: 1 H & 25 M
I used leftover pork here, but feel to swap in any other protein of your choice or leave out completely for a vegetarian version.

Ingredients

  • 1 onion, diced
  • 2 to 3 medium carrots, sliced
  • 1 celery stalk, finely minced
  • 3 to 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 ½ cups sliced mushrooms
  • 1 cup lentils, rinsed
  • 2 ¼ cup chicken stock or water, or as needed
  • 2 to 3 rosemary sprigs
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 ½ cups cooked shredded pork
  • Olive oil
  • Salt
  • Pepper

Instructions

  1. Season onions, carrots, and celery seasoned with salt and pepper and sweat in a large pan or pot (I used a 3.5-quart braising pan) with a generous pour of olive oil over medium to medium-high heat until vegetables are starting to soften – about 10 minutes. If at any point the vegetables start to brown, add a little water to slow down the cooking. Add the garlic and the mushrooms, toss, and continue to cook for another couple of minutes.
  2. Mix in the lentils followed by the chicken stock or water, rosemary, bay leaf, and another generous pinch of salt and pepper. Raise the heat and bring it to a boil, then immediately turn down the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered for about 30 minutes, or until the lentils are cooked through. Add more water or stock as needed to the pan.
  3. Add the pork (or other protein) to the pan and continue to cook for another few minutes until warmed through and the vegetables and lentils are all tender. Season with additional salt and pepper as need.
  4. Remove the rosemary and bay leaf, then serve warm.

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***** 
The rest of the French Winophile Blogging Group (#Winophiles) are exploring French Grape outside of France, hosted by Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla, you can read her invitation post here . I love the idea of the topic, and I admit that I've been meaning to share posts exploring Malbec, Carignan, and Mourvedre (among others) around the world, but given that it's Women's History Month and we'll soon be celebrating Earth Day next month, I couldn't resist sharing this story, even if the wine is made up of the more classic French Grapes we already know and love. Be sure to check out the rest of the group's posts:
  • Allison & Chris at AdVINEtures share French Grapes Around the World: Chardonnay in BC's Okanagan Valley .
  • Andrea of The Quirky Cork declares Ooo la la! French Grapes in Turkey!
  • Gwendolyn of Wine Predator pours West Coast “Bordeaux” Blends with Beef Bourguignon.
  • Jeff of FoodWineClick! takes A Reluctant Look at French Grapes Outside of France .
  • Jill of L'Occasion features Rhône Grapes in Paso Robles .
  • Lauren of The Swirling Dervish goes Beyond Champagne: Pinot Meunier Shines in a Varietal Wine from Two Shepherds .
  • Melanie of Wining with Mel offers French Grapes Around the World: Spotlight on Niagara Gamay 
  • Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings examines Elevating French grapes outside France at Texas's William and Chris Vineyards .
  • Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles looks at Roussanne 9009 km from Home .
  • Susannah of Avvinare posts Petit Manseng Flourishes In Virginia .
  • Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm is Exploring Malbec Outside of France Paired with Pineapple Teriyaki Salmon .
  • And host Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla surveys Gamay Around the Globe: From Burgundy to the Willamette Valley + Mussels, Pici, and A Bottle from New Zealand .

  •  


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    Earlier this year I got the chance to explore the wines of Moldova for the first time. It was a lot of fun trying new grapes and dishes I loved. This weekend marked Moldova National Wine Day (Oct 3rd and 4th this year) and I had the chance to celebrate at home with a few more wines from this Eastern European country. 

    Photo courtesy of Wine of Moldova. A national wine day celebration on a typical year. This year, of course, celebrations will be held at home.


    I decided to choose two new recipes and try them with two of the bottles I received as samples.  For more background on Moldova and its wine history, I invite you to check out my post from earlier this year, so that we can just get right down the wine and food today.

    Photo courtesy of Wine of Moldova.

    Note: These bottles in today's post were received as samples. No other compensation was received and all opinions are my own.

    THE GRAPES


    There are few grapes in these wines you might not recognize –– the first two are new to me too –– so let’s get to know them real quick.
     

    Feteasca Alba


    This variety has been cultivated for centuries in this region and appears to be a very ancient grape. It makes fine, delicate wines with floral aromas with stone fruit and tropical notes with a fairly light body. It’s used to make sparkling, dry, and sweet wines. This is one of three “maiden” grapes, as that’s the meaning of the word Feteasca.  Feteasca Alba is the “white maiden.” (It’s also one of the parents of Feteasca Regal, the “royal maiden,” which we got to know last time.)


    Feteasca Neagra

     
    The third maiden in the trio is the Black Maiden. It’s over 2000 years old and probably originated around the Prut river valley in southwestern Moldova. It is capable of producing high-quality reds, with typical aromas of wild cherry and violets, concentrated berry fruit, and good structure. It can be found in dry, semi-dry, and sweet styles. This grape also has lots of anthocyanins, which are antioxidants, which basically makes this health food of course.


    Saperavi


    Saperavi is a dark-skinned, pink-fleshed grape variety originally from Georgia (the country) and its been gaining in popularity here for the last few years. It’s a teinturier grape, which means that the juice and flesh are also tinted red in addition to the skin – which is pretty rare. It does well and is grown throughout Eastern Europe. You can probably guess that it has lots of color, it’s also got lots of acidity and tannin. You expect flavors of dark berries, cherries, smoke, leather, spices, and tobacco.



    THE WINES


    I opened one white bottle and one red to try this weekend with two dishes selected. 

     

    Castel Mimi Feteasca Alba Codru 2018


    Blend: 100% Feteasca Alba | $18.99 | 13.% Alc

    Castel Mimi was founded in 1893 by Constantin Mimi, a politician who went on to dedicate his life to wine. He decided to apply what he’d learned of  winemaking on his travels through Western Europe, planted vine cuttings at his own estate near the village of Bulboaca, and thus created the first chateau in Moldova. In 1940 Castel Mimi became state property and was later turned into an industrial wine factory during Soviet rule. While the wine factory remained in use and was expanded, the chateau was largely inactive for fifty years. However, in 2011 an ambitious restoration project was launched to renovate the mansion and its original facade has now been completely restored. The winery’s tourist area is open to guests and includes a royal courtyard with gardens, a grand square with dancing fountains, an events hall, a spa, a swimming pool, and a  a summer terrace and picnic areas. You can even stay overnight in one of seven chalet-style cottages.

    Tasting note: White peach, lots of blooming flowers, light fresh herbs, and a mix of lemon and grapefruit hit on the nose and continued on the palate. The wine’s texture was light, but round in the middle, following through to a crisp finish accented by light minerality and bright acidity.


    Radacini Ampre Saperavi, Feteasca Neagra, Merlot 2018


    Blend: 70% Saperavi, 20% Feteasca Neagra, 10%  Merlot  | $19.99  | 13% Alc.

    Sadly, I couldn’t find out much about Radacini other than that it’s a about a decade old.

    Tasting notes: Warm fruit sauce of spiced cherries, raspberries, and plums hit on the nose with a touch of cinnamon. The warmth is still there on the palate, but it’s combined with more tart notes of sour cherry and pomegranates mixed with a little tobacco and tea leaf. It was medium-bodied, with lots of acidity, and tannins that gripped but came to a silky finish.



    THE FOOD


    Moldova and Romania share quite a bit of history, food, and culture, so like last time I looked to the cuisines of both for inspiration.


    Mamaliga with Mushrooms

    I kept coming across mamaliga as a favorite dish in Moldova. It’s very similar to Italian-style polenta, and I love polenta, so this was an easy choice. I found this recipe for Mamaliga with Shiitake Mushrooms on a blog called Maya’s Kitchen. The mushrooms are seasoned with nutmeg, which is a different flavor route than I typically go with them, but it sounded warm and inviting in autumnal way. It was!

    I followed the recipe pretty much as presented other than these minor changes:

    • I used polenta instead of cornmeal. Most recipes I looked at for mamaliga called for polenta, so I don’t see this a big change. (See this article from the Kitchn for the technical differences.)
    • I swapped in chicken stock for the bouillon and water.
    • I used half Shiitake and half cremini mushrooms to save a few bucks. 
    • We had some leftover dry salami, so I chopped it up and tossed it in for extra meatiness. It’s not necessary at all, but an easy way to use up protein leftovers if you have some hanging around. 
    • I’d read in several places that Mamaliga is often served with sour cream. I love sour cream, so I served some on the side.

    How The Wines Paired


    The red blend was the hands-down winner. The flavors matched together perfectly; in particular, the nutmeg in the dish brought out the spice notes in the wine in a beautiful way. The wine got deeper and more velvety in the combo. A seamless match.

    The Feteasca Alba didn’t clash, but the combo was just ok. The wine was refreshing, but didn’t improve in the match. Greg noted that the food took the stuffing out of the wine a bit. I found that didn’t happen as much when a little bit of the sour cream was involved. 

     

    A quick update/addition: The leftovers of this dish made a delicious, cozy brunch when topped with an egg. All kinds of yum!


    Oven-Baked Pearl Barley Pilaf with Chicken and Mushrooms

    I found this recipe for Oven-Baked Pearl Barley Pilaf with Chicken and Mushrooms from Olive Magazine out of Carpathia: Food from the heart of Romania by Irina Georgescu, which sounded like a flavorful one-pot meal. I made only a few minor changes, but since the recipe is written for a British audience, I’ve adapted it here using ounces and pounds, etc.


    How The Wines Paired

    This was a much closer competition between the two wines, although I ultimately preferred the refreshing white wine in this case. I thought the match also helped further round out the mid-palate of the wine and gave it a little more flesh. Greg, on the other hand, forgot to pay attention this round and happily sipped away at the red wine while we watched a movie with dinner. I thought the red was quite nice too, but the tannin fought a bit with the chicken, although in a very minor way.

    chicken, one-pot, casserole
    dinner
    Romanian
    Servings: 4 to 6
    By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson, adapted from recipe by Irina Georgescu on OliveMagazine.com .
    Print
    Oven-Baked Pearl Barley Pilaf with Chicken and Mushrooms

    Oven-Baked Pearl Barley Pilaf with Chicken and Mushrooms

    Prep Time: 20 MinCooking Time: 90 MinTotal Time: 1 H & 49 M

    Ingredients

    • 1 whole chicken, divided into 8 pieces
    • 2 onions, sliced
    • 8 oz package, pearl barley
    • 3 celery sticks, diced
    • 1 carrot, diced
    • 1 red pepper, diced
    • 14 oz can diced tomatoes
    • 8 to 10 oz crimini mushrooms, sliced
    • 16 oz chicken stock
    • 2 Tbsp butter
    • flat-leaf parsley a small bunch, roughly chopped (optional)
    • Cooking oil
    • Salt, 2 tsp or to taste
    • Pepper, 1 tsp, or to taste

    Instructions

    1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
    2. In a large oven-safe pan or Dutch oven, heat the oil and brown the chicken pieces on all sides until well-browned. Transfer to a plate. In the same oil, cook the onions for 10 minutes over medium heat until they begin to char. Add the pearl barley and coat the grains well with the oil, and cook for a few more minutes.
    3. Add the chopped tomatoes, mushrooms, stock, season with salt and pepper, and stir gently. Add the dark-skin pieces of chicken back in, then cover the pan.
    4. Put the Dutch oven in the oven. After 10 to 15 minutes, add the light-skin chicken pieces to the pan. Continue to cook for another 30 to 35 min, then uncover the pot and cook for another 10 minutes or until the barley is tender and most of the liquid has been absorbed. Roughly chop the butter and dot the pieces around over the top.
    5. Remove the pot from the oven, taste, and adjust seasoning as needed. Sprinkle with parsley, if using, and serve.
    https://www.sommstable.com/2020/10/celebrating-moldova-wine-day.html
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    *****

    The bloggers of the newly minted World Wine Travel Group (#WorldWineTravel) have also been celebrating Moldova's National Wine Day. Check out their posts to see how they've been celebrating:

    • Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares “Two Indigenous Moldovan Grapes – Fetească Albă and Fetească Neagră – Paired With Colțunași Harnici (Hard-Working Dumplings)” 
    • Wendy from A Day In The Life On The Farm is “Celebrating the Food and Wine of Moldova” 
    • David from CookingChat has “Food Pairings for Moldavan Wines” 
    • Lori from Exploring the Wine Glass shares “Sitting Down with Master of Wine Caroline Gilby to Discuss Moldovan Wine” 
    • Terri from Our Good Life shares “Moldova Wine Day Celebration!” 
    • Linda from My Full Wine Glass is “Celebrating ‘My Wine Day’ and the little country that could” 
    • Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles shares “Moldovan Wine – moving forward while not losing track of the authentic grapes of their past” #WorldWineTravel 
    • Susannah from Avvinare writes “You say Feteasca and I’ll Say Moldova” 
    • Jennifer at Vino Travels tells us about “Eye Openers to the Wines of Moldova” 
    • Melanie from Wining With Mel is “Exploring new territory with Moldovan wines” 
    • Jeff from foodwineclick asks the question “Are Local Grapes the Future of Moldovan Wines?” 
    • Lynn at Savor the Harvest I share “Moldovan Native Wine Grape Discoveries” #WorldWineTravel 
    • Jill from L’Occasion discusses “Wines of Moldova: Worth the Adventure” 
    •  Payal from Keep the Peas pairs “Kashmiri Yakhni Pulao and Moldovan Wine” 
    •  Rupal at Syrah Queen shares “Celebrate Moldova National Wine Day – Exploring Native Varieties” 
    •  Liz Barrett from What’s In That Bottle shares “Moldova National Wine Day is Here!” 
    • Pinny from Chinese Food And Wine Pairings tells us about “Celebrating Moldova National Wine Day with Chinese Food” 
    • Gwendolyn from Wine Predator shares "Meet Moldova: 2018 Purcari 1827 Rara Negra de Purcari Vin Sec Rosu Paired with Pizza #WorldWineTravel " 
    • Deanna at Asian Test Kitchen tells us about "Meatless Moldovan Food and Wine" #WorldWineTravel


    Additional sources used for this post:

    • Wine of Moldova Enotourism Guide
    • Wine-searcher.com 
    • Wineparadigm.com 

     

    This post contains affiliate links, including the following Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.

     



    In my last post, I shared an interview with Cristiana Tiberio, the badass winemaker of Azienda Agricola Tiberio. Today we’re going to take a closer look at one of her wines –the Tiberio Pecorino Colline Pescaresi 2016 – and we’re bringing it home to the table.

    Pecorino is one of those white wine grapes that I realize most people don’t know, but it’s very much in line with what many people are looking for in a bottle of white wine. It’s crisp, it’s minerally, it’s refreshing. It also has the ability to be really interesting. . . and it has a great comeback story.

    It’s not surprising that it’s not that well known. Let’s be honest, I know a lot of you are thinking ‘Pecorino? I thought that was a cheese.’ I’m pretty sure I had that same thought the first time I heard of it. You’d also be right, there is a cheese called Pecorino – and I couldn’t resist including it in today’s recipe. However, it is also a wine grape that is grown predominantly in Italy’s Marche and Abruzzo regions. According to Ian D’Agata in Native Wine Grapes of Italy, the grape got its name from sheepherders who ate them off the vines as snacks while accompanying their flocks around the countryside. Other sources suggest that the sheep themselves ate the grapes. Either way, it seems there is at least a thin thread linking the wine with the cheese. (Sorry guys, it’s hard for me to resist a cheesy tangent.)

    The grape’s obscurity has largely to do with the fact that it nearly went extinct. It’s an ancient grape that had been grown for hundreds of years. However, it’s not a very productive grape and many growers replaced it with far crappier varieties that gave higher yields. However, Pecorino’s weakness is also its strength. The fact that its vines don’t produce that many grapes also means that the grapes that are produced tend to have higher flavor concentration.

    All the same, growers ripped up most of these vines and Pecorino was commonly thought to be completely gone by the middle of the 20th century. Then a few remaining vines were discovered in the 1980s and the grape made a pretty remarkable comeback. The grape can largely thank two producers as its heroes for bringing it back from the brink of death – Guido Cocci Grifoni of Cocci Griffoni in the Marche and Luigi Cataldi Madonna of Cataldi Madonna in Abruzzo.

    The Tiberio family happened to be good friends with Cataldi Madonna. In 1999, Cristiana and Antonio Tiberio discovered a few rogue vines mixed in with others on their property. Once they figured out what they actually had on their hands, Cristiana went to Cataldi Madonna and learned everything she could from him about the grape. The Tiberios began cultivating the grape and Cristiana eventually developed her own style with the wine.




    Cristiana with her Abruzzese Shepherds Quarmari and Frida in the vineyards. Photo courtesy of Cristiana.


    In my conversation with Cristiana for my last post, I asked her what customers could expect from a bottle of  Pecorino.  She noted it’s often likened to a fuller-bodied Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s also very much its own grape and very evocative of the Mediterranean. She shared, “I love its energy, with beautiful depth balanced by the minerality. An authentic Pecorino has herbal flavours of sage, thyme, rosemary, and always a little zest of lemon.” You might also find apple and pear flavor, as well as light floral notes, and lots of minerality. Pecorino will also tend to be high in alcohol, and it is also high in glycerol, both of which add to the body of the wines, but all of this is balanced by high acidity as well.


    Tiberio vineyards. Photo courtesy of Cristiana Tiberio.



    THE WINE & PAIRING


    Cristiana noted the Pecorino is generally a very food-friendly wine, but when I asked for her pairing recommendations to go with the 2016 bottling of her wine, she had a great recommendation: “My favorite food pairing for my Pecorino, especially for an aged vintage is a chickpea soup with saffron. Pecorino has a long creamy texture able to support and to match the flavour of saffron and the legumes expanding the length of these flavours and at the same time to add lift with its minerality.”

    On the day we opened the wine, Greg and I picked up notes of pears, apples, and lemon. There were savory herbal notes, as well as tasty hints of cheese rind. The same notes continued on the palate along with some fleshier stone fruit notes, and even some faint tropical fruit notes of pineapple as it warmed in the glass. The wine gave a savory impression overall, with lots of herbs (Greg likened it to sourgrass), that hint of salty cheese, little white flowers that are just starting to dry, and hints of toasted almond skin.

    Cristiana had mentioned that Pecorino tends to not be super aromatic, but will be more complex and full-bodied on the palate. Pretty much echoing this sentiment, Greg commented that the “depth of flavor is bigger than you’d expect on the nose.”

    I suspect that several of these flavors, like the cheese rind and toasted almond skin, were coming from the fact that this wine was now a few years old, but I found them to be very attractive and added to the complexity. I’d be curious to age a bottle further to see where it goes.

    Since Cristiana’s pairing recommendations sounded so delicious, we kept them in mind as we tasted the wine and built our pairing around it. The complexity of flavors and the body and texture of the wine also suggested it could handle quite a mix of flavors. What we ended up with was a kind of deconstructed seafood stew. Rather, it was a stew with seafood served on top. I opted for a simply prepared combo of cod and shrimp.

    The breadth of flavors was really concentrated in the stew coming from first from saffron and herbs. I also happened to have some bits of ham and salami hanging around that I thought would work, so I tossed them in. This is totally optional, so to my pescatarian friends, feel free to leave it out. For my vegetarian friends, go ahead leave off the seafood – the stew is plenty flavorful on its own. 





    That salty cheese note made it so that I really couldn’t resist the temptation to incorporate some Pecorino cheese into the pairing as well. Moreover, it is a pairing recommendation I saw more than once for Pecorino wines in general. As you might guess, the region does have a tradition of making this class of these cheeses known as Pecorino Abruzzese. Hey, “what grows together, goes together.”

    It was a delicious combo, with flavors in the food and wine mirroring and rounding each other out. The wine was a really refreshing counterpoint to the food, while simultaneously matching the richness of the stew. I think this would be a great option for a dinner party because you could easily make the stew in advance (it’d probably taste even better), and just make the seafood right as you’re about to serve. Feel free to swap in other seafood options as well –– pretty sure this wine would easily match whatever you decide to swap in.


    OTHER POSSIBILITIES


    The importer’s website also recommends pasta, legumes, white meats, cheeses. Other recommendations I found include steamed white fish with ginger and chicken thighs with roasted red pepper and onion. This article I found about Pecorino cheese includes recipes for cacio e pepe and fava con pecorino – I think they’d all work beautifully together.

    If you’re looking for other wines to pair with this dish, look for full-bodied white and rosé wines with savory notes. Options such Soave Classico, Pinot Bianco, or Lugana could work nicely. If you’re making the stew on its own or a less delicate fish like salmon or trout, savory light-bodied reds should work as well.

    Maybe grab one from each category from Tiberio’s line-up and report back!


    THE GEEKY DETAILS


    Tiberio farms sustainably and all of their wines are made with free-run juice and native yeasts.

    The Sorting Table’s website
    (importer) has a very detailed tech sheet for this wine. Here are just a  few of the basics:

    Grape Variety:  100% massal selection Pecorino
    Total area under vine:  3 hectares
    Altitude:  350 meters a.s.l
    Soil composition:  Limestone with marly-gravel subsoil
    Average vine age: 16
    Vinification:  No press, just free run juice
    Alcoholic fermentation:  In stainless steel tanks
    Malolactic fermentation:  None
    Aging:  Six to eight months in tanks and another three to four months in bottle. (Per Vinous.com)
    Technical Information
    Alcohol:  13.5%

    If you really want to geek out and take a closer look at Pecorino, and its progression in Tiberio’s vineyards, I highly recommend checking out this article by Ian D’Agata for Vinous.com. By total coincidence, I happened to attend a seminar he was giving in SF over the weekend (so in between these two posts). It struck me that he mentioned Tiberio’s wines several times throughout the day even though the day’s topic didn’t have anything to do with Abruzzo. More specifically related to this article, in Native Wine Grapes of Italy he notes her as an expert on the Pecorino grape and highlights the Tiberio, Cataldi Madonna, and Cocci Griffoni as the three best examples of the wine in Italy.


    MONEY TALK


    I believe I got my bottle from Wine.com. They currently have the 2018 available for $24. (The average price across all vintages on WineSearcher.com is $21.) I think that’s a great price for such a thoughtfully made bottle that also happens to be a benchmark for the variety, making this wine an absolutely Solid Value and probably an Overachiever as well. 



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    Somm's Table 2017