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Last year we spent Thanksgiving weekend with our good friends and Corona-pod buddies Lucy and Drew. The feasting was not limited to just one day. We were only four people, but we collectively cooked for a full house as this group tends to go a little over the top. This meant LOTS of leftovers and many opportunities for leftover makeovers. PLUS, lots of wines pairing to go with it all. 




Last year I started an intended tradition of sharing the previous year’s feast and pairings. Given the copious amount of food last year, I’ll also be sharing all of those ideas to use up your leftovers as well!

Also, check out my Thanksgiving Pairing Guide Round Up.


Note: This post contains sample bottles. No other compensation was received and all opinions are my own. 



THE FEAST





The menu for the day included:


  • Rolled turkey with sausage stuffing wrapped in bacon. Drew ordered this out, and we all focused on the rest
  • Herbed mushrooms, similar to how my mom makes them 
  • Cornbread stuffing with chiles and green onions 
  • Potatoes Gregoire topped with cheddar and green onions 
  • Brussels sprouts tossed in bacon jam 
  • Butternut squash with brown butter and crispy sage
  • Pan de Jamón, Venezuelan bread stuffed with ham, raisins, and olives)
  • Black bottom oatmeal pie and custard apple custard pie with whipped cream




The feast day wines:



(Mind you, we didn’t actually finish all of these that night.)


While we cooked and noshed on apps we enjoyed J Winery Brut Russian River Valley, Kivelstadt Cellars The Family Secret Indian Springs Ranch Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma Valley 2018, and Twill Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir Molly's Vineyard Willamette Valley 2019. These are all great crowd-pleasers that will pair happily with lighter fare. Plus, it’s a celebratory day, so gotta have some bubbly!


Domaine Ostertag Pinot Gris Alsace 2012 was our bridge wine leading into dinner as it also works easily with most of the dishes on the table, but particularly dishes with a hint of sweetness like the butternut squash, and the the bit of age on this one only helped align the flavors. I think it also matches nicely with slightly richer dishes. 


Pinot Noir is a Thanksgiving classic because of its ability to match with many dishes in the feast. New World version, in particular, have the fruit to work with a lot of those tricky, slightly sweet dishes too, but they also tend to have a savory, herbal quality that works with those flavors as well. Our selection was from Melville Winery Estate Pinot Santa Rita Hills 2010. Scribe Winery’s St. Laurent Carneros 2017 played a similar role, but from an unexpected grape, so it’s a fun choice for those who want to try something a little different.    


We all enjoyed a little L. Garnier Chartreuse as a digestif to make it all go down easier. 





Makeover 1 -Turkey Sandwiches



Well, obviously. They’re always a must after Thanksgiving.  .  . However, these might’ve been a little bit extra. Drew torched the slices of rolled turkey stuffed with sausage, layered on lardo, and piled it all on slices of challah bread. These were particularly delightful with a little mustard. Given that this was a pretty indulgent sandwich, a simple green salad on the side was definitely called for. 


We took a break from vino for lunch. 





Makeover 2 – Steak, Potatoes, and Veggie Gratin



We took a little break from turkey with dry-aged steak which Drew prepared sous vide finished with herbs and butter. On the side, we had a second round of Potatoes Gregoire, because they're just awesome as is. 


The actual leftover makeover came into play with the veggies. I turned the Brussels sprouts and butternut squash into a gratin. 



You can easily turn most leftover veggies into a gratin with this non-recipe formula: Make a bechamel, melt in cheese, pour it all over veggies in a baking dish, sprinkle a little more cheese on top along with some bread crumbs, then bake it all at 350° F until its all bubbly and browning on top.





We this round of feasting we enjoyed Thee & Thou El Rucio Grenache and Syrah Santa Ynez 2017 while cooking and to start. It’s medium-bodied, with both ripe fruit and freshness, and very versatile. It’s great on its own and with food, particularly the gratin in this case. 


The steak could certainly take a bigger wine, so stepped things up to Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006, which worked beautifully with the meatiness.  


The boys had a little Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky at some point along the way. We also had some Kopke White Port Colheita 2003 as a digestif. 






Makeover 3 - Hangover Hash Brunch



This group has a longstanding tradition of making "Hangover Hash" for brunch at least once during every multi-day gathering. Despite the name, no hangover is actually required and non was involved this time around. 


All that’s required for this non-recipe is that you crisp up some leftover potatoes, sauté and add in onions if you have them, then add in any leftover veggies you think will go well, followed up with any leftover proteins you want –– in this case, we added in steak from the night before, but turkey, ham, or all of the above, work too. Top it all with a fried egg and serve. It never disappoints! 


We also had a side of holiday fruit and yogurt to go along with our hash, since at this point something lighter was definitely needed! I mixed baking spices and a little maple syrup in the yogurt, then added a pinch of ground clove to orange slices and raspberries to give them a holiday feel. It was super yummy and definitely brought the lighter element needed.



Drink up any remnant from bottles, or switch things up in favor of a beer or bloody mary, or just give your liver a break. All good, no judgments.



Makeover 4 - Turkey Pot Pie




Turkey Pot Pie is always a contender for my favorite Thanksgiving leftover makeover. So comforting!


Here’s the non-recipe: Sweat a diced-up onion or shallot until translucent. Add in a couple of diced up cloves of garlic if you want once the onions are nearly cooked, then add in your turkey and any leftover veggies you want to use up that you think will work. I used mushrooms and butternut squash here, and you can also bulk it up with additions like frozen peas. Pour in your leftover gravy, plus a little more chicken or turkey stock or water to dilute it down to a soupy consistency. Feel free to season with herbs and spice. Allow everything to simmer. Pour it all into an oven-safe dish if it isn't already in one. Put your crust on top. I made a biscuit topping to put on top, but to make this even easier use store-bought pie dough or flaky pastry dough. Bake it all at 350°F until everything is bubbly and the topping is golden, and serve. 


If you prefer more of a recipe, find one here. (Plus, you'll find a couple of extra leftover makeovers.)



We were pretty sure that this Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2008 was going to be a good pairing, but it turned out even better than we’d expected. AMAZING combo. I was sure it would work with the mushrooms, but the wine had gained sweet-savory notes in its age that were absolutely beautiful with the squash and sauce as well.






Makeover 5 – Dueling Croquettes



Things got a little competitive for this round of leftover makeovers. Drew and I went head to head in a duel to use up more leftovers.



I made stuffing croquettes out of the cornbread stuffing with chiles and green onions. Here’s the non-recipe: This stuffing was super flavorful, so I didn't feel like I had to do much in terms of flavoring. I added a little shredded cheese plus an egg for binding, then formed the mixture into balls. I rolled the formed balls around in flour, whisked egg, and bread crumbs, then fried them up until crispy.  I served them with cheese sauce and hot sauce.  



 

Drew made arancini with a bit of an Asian spin. These were rice balls with turkey/sausage fried up until crispy – kind of similar to Japanese Spam Musubi, but with the leftover meats instead. He then topped them with seared lardo and a spicy sauce. (I can’t give you a non-recipe since this one wasn’t mine.)



It might've been a dual, but there were no losers here since it was all delicious! (Plus, I think we each think we won.)




We had these with Symington Altano Branco Douro 2019 (sample), which made a lovely pairing for both croquettes. Afterward, we also tried a Quinta da Foz Douro 2017 and it was also delicious. Both of these wines have a balance of richness and brightness to match both the texture of the food and liven up the palate. 






Happy Thanksgiving!



And if you’re looking for ideas for how to use up leftovers, here are a few ideas:
Mushroom, Kale, and Ham Quiche
Turkey Enchiladas
Stuffed Acorn Squash
Post Turkey Day Leftover Makeover Trio 






Vinho Verde is one of my absolute favorite summer wines.


I cannot think of a more perfect beverage for the season. Here are just a few reasons I think it should be in everyone’s summer bottle rotation:

  • It’s super refreshing.
  • Most tickle your tongue with a hint of fizz.
  • It pairs beautifully with fresh summer fare.
  • It tends to be low in alcohol, which makes it perfect for sipping in the afternoon sun without gonking you out.
  • It’s usually very easy on the wallet, so you can crack open bottles freely and keep the wine flowing.
Map courtesy of Wines of Portugal.

Vinho Verde is a wine region in northwestern corner of Portugal in the province of Minho. The name Vinho Verde means “green wine,” but it's a reference to the wine's youth, not its color, thanks to the fact that wines are bottled pretty quickly after harvest – within 3 to 6 months. The wines often have a characteristic hint of fizz – not so much to be considered full-on sparkling, but just enough that you can feel it. Originally, this fizz was the result of the wine being bottled so quickly after fermentation that there was still a bit of C02 left in the wine, but nowadays winemakers typically add a bit to the wine as it’s being bottled.

The other likely possible origin of the name is that it could be referring to the color of the region itself, as it is quite verdant indeed. (However, the youthfulness of the wine is the more consistently cited origin of the name Vinho Verde that I've seen.) It’s right on the Atlantic coast and is boarded by the River Minho to the north, on the country's border with Spain, and stretches past the River Douro to the south. It has a cool, maritime climate that is quite rainy, which results in a lush green landscape. 


Photo courtesy of Wines of Portugal.


Despite the beautiful, fertile look of the land, it can actually be tricky to grow grapes well here. Grape vines don't really like a lot of moisture – it can make them over-productive and causes a lot of problems like mold, mildew, rot, and other diseases. Vines in Vinho Verde are often trained upward on Pergola systems, which help guard against the problems all the moisture brings, by allowing the vines to catch the breezes. It also helps farmers make the most of their land, which tends toward small plots, by increasing the density of the vines. Alternatively, many modern vineyards, particularly those with bigger estates, will instead train their vines along wires that help the grapes ripen by soaking in as much sun as possible whenever it makes an appearance.

Here are a few more basics for getting to know the region:

  • The region is best known for its white wines, however, they also make rosé and red wines, although they tend to be harder to find. Full-on sparkling wines are also permitted as of 1999. The region also makes brandy.
  • Vinho Verde wines are typically blends. There are recommended grapes, as well as a wider set of permitted white and red grapes. Each grape brings a different aspect to the blend. For example, Alvarinho, which is highly prized brings minerality, finesse, and fragrance. Loureiro is known for being quite aromatic. The recommended grapes are as follows: 
    • White: Alvarinho, Arinto, Avesso, Azal, Batoca, Loureiro, and Trajadura. Varietal Alvarinho wines are also made in the subregions Melgaço and Monção 
    • Red: Amaral, Azal Tinto, Borraçal, Brancelho, Espadeiro, Padeiro, Pedral, Rabo de Ovelha and Vinhão
  • The region is divided into nine subregions within the DOC of Vinho Verde, which are named after rivers or towns. They are: Monção, Melgaço, Lima, Basto, Cávado, Ave, Amarante, Baião, Sousa and Paiva. Different subregions have particular characteristics and might focus on different grapes depending on their particular climatic variations.

Greg and I spent a brief but wonderful few days in Portugal in 2013, along with one of my besties, Antonella. We didn’t make it to Vinho Verde, but we certainly drank some bottles. Here’s one bottle from Quinta da Aveleda with a seafood spread.
Scenes from a lunch in Lisbon.

 

While these wines are quite versatile, they are particularly wonderful with seafood. This trip to Portugal and Spain also showed us the possibilities of what good tinned fish can be, and we’ve sought out the good versions ever since. These can be particularly nice to have around during the summer when you don’t really feel like slaving away in front of a hot stove.

 

THE FOOD


We’ve recently made our way down to San Diego to see Greg’s parents and we decided to share an easy seafood spread with them combining one dish using tinned fish, and another involving very light cooking, with a line-up of Vinho Verde wines for a little comparative tasting. 



I took inspiration from Chef George Mendes’ My Portugal cookbook for the dishes. The first was a very easy tomato and onion salad with good tinned tuna and herbs. (Adapted below.) You could just as easily swap in another favorite tinned fish option. The next dish involved clams simply cooked in a mixture of garlic, cilantro, and Vinho Verde. (How perfect is that?!) I found it reprinted here. The only change I made was to add shallots in alon. Altogether, everything took these dishes took less than an hour to put together. 


Finally, I know the Portuguese highly value a good loaf of bread, so baked a simple round of sourdough using a sourgdough version of the No-Knead Bread recipe. (Such a fan of this recipe for its really high ROI! So good for very little work.)




THE WINES


We opened three bottles to compare. We enjoyed all three, all were very refreshing, and they all went very well with the food. However, we definitely had a favorite – and on this occasion, we were all in agreement! The best part is that the prices for these wines topped out at about $13, so it’s pretty hard to go wrong. 





Quinta de Raza ‘Raza’ Vinho Verde 2019


The unanimous group favorite!

Quinta da Raza is a family-owned winery located in the subregion of Basto in the Tamega River Valley with mountains to the west. This river runs northeast to southwest, which is unusual as all the other rivers in the region run from east to west. These factors all help reduce the influence of the Atlantic winds, resulting in a comparatively less rainy microclimate. Bottom line, these vines get more time in the sun than many others in Vinho Verde.

We definitely could taste that sunshine in this wine as it had a rounder mouthfeel and had riper fruit notes than the other two wines. Flowers, pears, apples, and citrus notes greeted us on the nose. On the palates, we found the characteristic light Vinho Verde spritz, followed bu bright lemon, grapefruit, and tangy peach. It had juicy acidity with flavor that really popped in the mouth.

When sipped with the food, the wine brought out a fleshy, meaty quality in the clams, and elevated the herbal notes on the tuna dish is a nice way.


Blend: Arinto, Azal, Trajadura
Alc: 11.5%
Soils: Granite with areas of schist and clay.
Farming: Sustainable
Winemaking: Stainless steel fermentation.
Average price: $11. Purchased for $13 at Bay Grape.
Additional details here and here.
 

Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde 2019


This is one of the more easily available and reliable brands around. They’re actually the biggest exporter of Vinho Verde in Portugal. The company has been owned by the Guedes family for 5 generations, since its founding in 1870. Today, the company is run by António Azevedo Guedes and Martim Guedes. In addition to Vinho Verde, the company also produces wines in the Douro and Bairrada.

This was the stoniest of the three wines. It showed white flowers on the nose, along with notes of green apple and lime. All notes continued on the palate, along with hints of herbs on the finish. It was light and crisp and worked like a squeeze of lemon with the food.

Blend: Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura and Aza
Alc: 9.5%
Soils: Granite and sand.
Farming: Sustainable.
Average Price: $9 (Can’t quite recall where I bought this one.)
Additional details here. 



Broadbent Vinho Verde NV


This is a project from wine expert and importer Bartholomew Broadbent, son of wine critic Michael Broadbent. Broadbent Selections imports a variety of wines from different places where they work with partners in the respective regions to create the wines. For his Vinho Verde, the goal stated on the website is “to produce the most reliable and traditional of all Vinho Verdes and to resolve the usual whine that Vinho Verde never tastes like it tastes in Portugal.”  It’s made as a NV wine and is produced at Quinta de Azevedo in the Barcelos commune using grapes from a variety of partner growers. They ship the wines in refrigerated containers to help preserve freshness. I tend to find them widely available at stores like Whole Foods (where I purchased this bottle) and on Wine.com. They’re easily recognizable from their colorful labels and tend to hover around $10.

This wine was crisp, clean, direct, and fresh, mostly focusing on the primary fruit notes of grapefruit, lemon, and green apple. It was generally the second favorite in the group.

Blend: 50% Loureiro, 40% Trajadura, & 10% Pedernã
Alc: 9%
Average price: $9. Purchased for about that Whole Foods, and also available at Wine.com .
Additional details here. 
 

Salad
Seafood
Portuguese
Servings: 4
Adapted by: Nicole Ruiz Hudson from recipe by George Mendes in My Portugal
Print
Tuna, Tomato, and Onion Salad

Tuna, Tomato, and Onion Salad

Ingredients:

  • 2 lbs heirloom tomatoes in a mix of sizes and colors
  • 1 medium white onion, very thinly sliced
  • Sherry and/or date vinegar, to taste
  • 8 ounces good-quality tuna packed in olive oil
  • Fresh oregano, chopped, 2 Tbsp or to taste
  • Thyme or lemon thyme leaves, 2 Tbsp or to taste
  • Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste
  • Salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground pepper, to taste
  • Maldon sea salt or fleur de sel, to taste

Instructions:

  1. Core the tomatoes and cut into slices or halve in the case of smaller tomatoes. Place tomatoes in a bowl. Salt liberally and set aside for at least 10 minutes.
  2. Place the onion slice in a bowl and douse liberally with vinegar and sprinkle with salt. Set aside for at least minutes.
  3. Arrange the tomatoes and onions on a platter. Break the tuna into chunks and sprinkle over the vegetables along with some of its oil.
  4. Sprinkle the herbs over the tuna and vegetables. Drizzle additional sherry vinegar and olive oil over the platter to taste. Top with freshly ground pepper and finish with Maldon sea salt.
https://www.sommstable.com/2020/08/vinho-verde-and-simple-seafood-feast.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator
 
For a dish like this it really pays to use a really good quality tinned fish. On this occasion, I used this version from Olasagasti, which I admit is a little pricey. Typically, I would probably use something along the lines of this one by Tonnino.




For another option, check out this 8 & $20: Tuna Steaks with Tomato-Basil Orzo.
And for a Portuguese red, see  Cooking to the Wine: Passagem Douro Reserva with Spiced Wine Braised Octopus. 
 
Here's one more pairing idea for Vinho Verde (added after the fact). We recently also had a bottle of Gazela Vinho Verde  paired with spicy seafood and veggie takeout from our favorite Sichuan place. Spicy foods can be tricky to pair, but this wine worked because the low alcohol level didn't feed the burn, and the crisp citrus flavors and hint of fizz refreshed the palate.
 

View this post on Instagram

A recent #takeouttuesday from #spices3 of lots of Sichuan seafood paired w @gazelawine #vinhoverde. Vinho Verde is one of my very favorite summer wines and this week I’ve been exploring them over on @thesommstable. Check it out at https://bit.ly/2Cen8ba. (Link also in the Somm’s Table bio) . . . . .

A post shared by Nicole Ruiz Hudson, DipWSET (@nibblinggypsy) on Aug 11, 2020 at 10:21pm PDT


 

*****
 
The rest of the Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) is exploring the wines of Vinho Verde this month, hosted by Cindy of Grape Experiences. Be sure to check out the rest of the group's posts:
  • Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares Foods from Around the World Paired with Pink Wines from Portugal. 
  • Liz of What’s In That Bottle? is thrilled with Va Va Va Vinho Verde: the Portuguese White That Wows. 
  • Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles answers What is Vinho Verde? 5 things I didn’t know about this perfect summer wine. 
  • Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm savors Tomato Poached Cod with Vinho Verde Wine. 
  • Linda at My Full Wine Glass realizes that Distinctively ‘Laurel' Vinho Verde Delivers with Seafood and Salad. 
  • Payal at Keep the Peas is pairing Sem Igual Vinho Verde with Peixe Caldine. 
  • Gwendolyn at Wine Predator says Vinho Verde: A Green Wine That’s White from Portugal Paired with Tuna, Tomato, Basil, Orzo.
  • Martin at ENOFYLZ Wine Blog is Pairing Maria Papoila Vinho Verde with Summer Pizza. 
  • Susannah at Avvinare explains how Vinho Verde Meets Homemade Sushi. 
  • Terri at Our Good Life savors Scallops, Smashed Peas and a Great Vinho Verde. 
  • Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairing achieves A Successful Hunt Down of a Red Vinhao Escolha from Vinho Verde DOC. 
  • Cindy at Grape Experiences has been reminiscing upon last fall’s work trip where she spent A Morning Visit to Quinta da Aveleda in Vinho Verde.


Additional sources used for this post:
  • Wines of Portugal
  • Vinho Verde 
  • Wine-searcher.com 
  • The Oxford Companion via Jancisrobinson.com 
  • Guildsomm.com 
  • VinePair: 7 Things You Need To Know About Vinho Verde 
  •  Winefolly.com: 101 Guide To Vinho Verde Wine from Portugal


 This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.


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Somm's Table 2017