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Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.
 
If there is one class of soils that settles the question of if you can taste terroir for me personally, it has to be volcanic soils. Maybe it’s possible that the vines themselves feel the thrill of growing around volcanoes because there just tends to be an energy in wines from volcanic regions that really set them apart. Italy has its fair share of these with many areas boasting volcanic soils running up and down the country, however, the largest active volcano today is Sicily’s Mount Etna. Today we’re going to better get to know this volcanic region (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013) and its grapes a bit better through the wines of Tenuta di Fessina.

Note: The wines in today’s post were provided as media samples. No other compensation was received and all opinions are my own.

This isn’t the first time we’ve explored Sicily or even Mount Etna on this blog. In fact, to get an idea of the difficulties of growing vines on an active volcano, I invite you to check out this post. The volcano definitely affects the vines as well, and it comes through in the flavor of the wines. This quote from an article on Bloomberg.com entitled Boom: Volcanic Wines Are Heating Up Around the Globe describes the effects on the wines:
 
Wines from the several types of volcanic soils—lava, pumice, ash, basalt, and more—can vary widely, but most share complex aromas, mouthwatering high acidity, and salty, savory, earthy flavors. The porosity of these soils stores more water, which contributes to the wines’ characteristic freshness and exuberance.
 
Personally, I often register a lot of minerality from volcanic wines. Sometimes it comes across as a salty factor as mentioned above, other times there’s flintiness to the wine, or even smoke or full-on charcoal, and sometimes it’s a mix. As a lover of high-acid wines myself, I definitely appreciate and love the freshness that tends to go hand-in-hand with volcanic wines.

There are some additional bonuses to volcanic soils as well. For one thing, that pesky louse, phylloxera,  doesn’t do well in volcanic soils, so that’s one headache growers don’t have to worry about, and vines can even remain on their own rootstock. A lot of volcanic areas are on terrains that are difficult to mechanize, which means that they have to be worked by hand. While that particular aspect might make life harder on growers, it can work out to be a benefit for consumers since care must be taken while tending to the vines.

Of course, there is more to “terroir” than just soil. The weather, climate, elevation, and other aspects of the terrain, as well as many other factors all certainly have a part to play, but this is one soil that IMHO makes itself known. The volcano affects other aspects of the terroir as well.  The crags and slopes of any mountain help to create many microclimates. On Mount Etna, this is anything  but constant. Etna is an effusive volcano, which means that it's releasing gas and erupting on a pretty regular basis, rather building up pressure for many years before then having a huge explosive eruption. This is ultimately less devastating, but it also means that the landscape is being reshaped on a regular basis.

Etna currently stands at 3,326 m / 10,912 ft (some sources give the height at  3,350 m / 10,990 ft, and in truth, it’s actually constantly changing given the ash and lava), and you can probably guess that the elevation has a cooling effect. The highest of Etna’s vineyards are among the highest in Italy and even the world, and more and more winemakers are experimenting with planting vines at higher altitudes here.

Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.
 
The vineyards on the volcano curve around its eastern side which faces the Mediterranean, running between the towns of Randazzo on the north side and Santa Maria Licodia on the south side. Vineyard areas on different parts of the mountain have different microclimates. The north side of the volcano is colder, windier, and even gets a fair amount of snow, while the south is sunnier but also gets more rain.

The interplay between the mountain and the sea is also important. Growers celebrate the way the water from the sea reflects light back up to the vines. Most of Sicily has no issue with ripening grapes given it’s warm climate, but this effect is beneficial for those vines that keep creeping further up the volcano.  

Sicily’s climate, in general, is pretty ideal for growing grapes. In addition to being warm and fairly dry, it’s also petty breezy which makes it a lot easier to keep vines healthy and free from many diseases and molds. That makes it a lot easier to grow grapes sustainably without the use of sprays. A big bonus!


TENUTA DI FESSINA


Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.


Silvia Maestrelli is the woman behind today’s wines. She comes from an entrepreneurial Florentine family. She apparently brought that entrepreneurial spirit with her when she moved to Etna in 2006 and she started Tenuta di Fessina in 2007 after falling in love with the land. She brought on consultants and collaborators, including winemaker Federico Curtaz, to help her build her project. The volcano plays an important to her vision and winemaking philosophy as she says, “I look up to Mount Etna like a daughter would look up to a mother.”

Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.

It also literally has shaped the vineyards. The winery is based in Rovitello and has seventeen acres of vineyards there (2,200 feet), as well as six acres between Milo and Santa Maria di Licodìa (3,280 feet). The vineyards in Rovitello are located between two ancient semicircular lava flows of the past that act like walls that isolate the vineyard, much like a French "clos."

Having vineyards on both sides of the mountain allows Tentua di Fessina to produce excellent expressions of the various indigenous varieties – and they work exclusively with indigenous grapes. Red grapes like Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and the rare variety of Minnella, do well on the north side, while white varieties, do well on the south side. Carricante in particular is able to acquire both minerality and roundness, which complements its structural acidity.
            
I admit that I can’t quite tell from their website and press materials what farming methods they use, but as best I can make out they only intervene in the vineyards when necessary. All farming is done by hand, and as a rule all of Etna is dry-farmed. The age of their vines vary between 70 and 110 years old.

Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.


A little daydream fodder for those of us anxiously awaiting the day we can travel again – the winery has seven guestrooms inside a 17th-century structure on the property.

Image borrowed from the Tenuta di Fessina website.



THE GRAPES

 
Tenuta di Fessina only works with indigenous grapes, so here’s a quick primer on some of the varieties in the wines we’ll be looking at today.

Whites


Carricante: An ancient white wine grape variety that’s believed to have been grown on  to Mount Etna for at least a thousand years. It’s known for having high acidity and often has a marked mineral note in the best examples. As far as fruit notes, you’re likely to find any or all members of the citrus family in your glass, along with hints of herb note. Carricante is the key player in white wines falling under the Etna DOC title. A minimum of 60% is required for standard Etna Bianco, and it’s bumped up to 80% in Etna Bianco Superiore.

Catarratto: This is the most planted grape in Sicily, and it’s rare to find anywhere else. It has tends to have lower acidity than Carricante and show notes of citrus, melon, herbs, and white flowers. You’re also likely to find it in Marsala wines.


Reds


Nero d’Avola: This is Sicily’s  most planted and celebrated red grapes. It tends to make wines with deep color and flavor, juicy acidity, and soft-to-medium tannins. You’ll find fruit notes ranging from bright red strawberries and sour cherries, to darker red and black berry notes. You’re also likely to find red floral notes, as well as sweet spices and licorice. Styles can range from easygoing, to much more serious and brooding bottles that beg for aging.

Nerello Mascalese: This is the second most planted red grape, but it’s popularity has been growing in recent years. It does particularly well in Mount Etna’s volcanic soils. It makes fresh, fruity wines with herbal notes, and lots of earthy minerality.

Nerello Cappuccio:
You’ll usually find this grape blended with Nerello Mascalese as it can help soften some of it edges, as well as adding color and perfume. You don’t find it on its own that often. It too does well on Etna’s volcanic soils, and particularly likes the higher altitudes. It shows cherry notes on the palate, and typically has lots of acidity and tannin.


                            

WINES & PAIRINGS


Over the last few months I’ve had the opportunity to try several wines from Tenuta di Fessina’s various lines, giving me the chance to explore many of Etna’s indigenous grapes as interpreted by one producer.

Here are a few of the wines and pairings we’ve enjoyed. I think you’ll see the volcanic notes play out in the tasting notes through minerality expressed in these wines. Also, you’ll notice that all of the wine names come from Greek and Roman references, which I find fun.

We’ve tried the white, the rosato, and the rosso from the Erse line, which is named for the Greek goddess of dew. These wines are made in a fresh style and are meant to be enjoyed young. The SRP on these is $24.99.

 
We enjoyed the Erse Etna Bianco 2017 (90% Carricante, 10% Catarratto & Minella) with a roast chicken dinner (mentioned here). It showed notes of bright citrus, accompanied by herbs. It rounded out in the mid-palate, before heading into a flinty finish. It was a nice alternative to Chardonnay (my usual roast chicken go-to) since it had that bit of roundness to stand up the chicken. This would also be a no-brainer for grilled seafood dishes thanks to all that minerality and citrus. (Geeky details here.)


 
I’ve really enjoyed the Erse Etna Rosato 2018!  (Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio.) It has a wonderful mix of juicy fruits and substantial structure. It showed bright red fruit notes, orange zest, and a slight hint of herbs. It was also quite structured and finished with a smoky, stony note. I mentioned in this recent post on rosé, that I really enjoyed it with a spread that included collard greens with smoky ham hocks, since the flavors played off of each other really well. I also recently had a bottle over a dinner with friends and tried it with Caprese salad and a light pasta dish that included asparagus with parmesan. It played nicely with everything, even the asparagus which can be tricky at times. I think it would also be a natural match for salumi. (Geeky details here.)

 

Erse Etna Rosso 2016 (90% Nerello Mascalese, 8% Nerello Cappuccio, and 2% Minnella & Carricante) was a medium-bodied and a nice balance of lively red fruits, earthiness, smoke, and a little anise seed. This was perfect with Eggplant Lasagna. (Geeky details here.)
 
Now we have a couple of high-low pizza pairings. Pizza dough has been a big project of mine during these last few months at home. Sometimes after putting in the work, I feel I deserve something a little nicer to go with it!
     

First up, the Laeneo Sicilia IGT 2017 (SRP $41.99, 100% Nerello Cappuccio). This wine is named for the bacchanal gatherings in honor of Dionysus in ancient Athens – and I am certainly a devotee of Dionysus. This wine showed notes of sour cherries, along with some riper red fruit notes to round it out, a little pepper, herbs, and smoky fennel salami, backed up by a little stone. It actually was a fantastic match with my sausage pizza. (Geeky details here.)


 a'Puddara Etna Bianco with Sficone


And finally, my spotlight wine today is the a'Puddara Etna Bianco 2017 (SRP $65.99). This wine is dedicated to Sicily and the name is a reference from Ovid and to the Pleiades that look over Sicily.



Nose: Grilled lemons, apples, and small white flowers.
Palate: All come back on the palate, but the fruit gets rounder and riper and is joined by notes of stone fruit. It’s complex with hints of herbs, Parmesan cheese rind, as well as flinty stoniness on the finish. It was on the light end of medium-bodied, but with a creamy texture to the midpalate lifted by plenty of fresh acidity, riding through to a flinty, stony finish.

Geeky details taken from the tech sheet.

BLEND: Carricante100%
PRODUCTION AREA: Biancavilla, Contrada Manzudda. The Biancavilla area is characterized by areas composed of small volcanoes and craters from remote eras now extinct, these led to the formation of limestone caves and a terroir composed mainly of clayey particles, lapilli leftovers, sand, and volcanic ash. There are small fractions of potassium, basaltic lavas, and ancient tuffs. The thermal excursion is sudden and wider than the north side, it is such that it reaches 86°F giving, with the fine and sandy skeleton, a vertical elegance and a unique strong minerality, that if combined with the high rates to the genotypic acidity of the indigenous varieties guarantee a very high aging potential for the Carricante, Nerello Mascalese, and Nerello Cappuccio grapes.

VINEYARD PLANTED: 1950
EXPOSITION: South
ALTITUDE: 2950 ft
VINIFICATION: Crushing without de-stemming after careful selection of the grapes in the vineyard and on the sorting belt in the cellar, soft pressing with separation of the musts, cold static decantation
FERMENTATION: direct fermentation in 3500 liter French oak barrels
AGING: Refined on the lees for 6-8 months
Alc: 12.5%

For this pairing, I decided to look to The Heart of Sicily for inspiration. I have a weakness for cookbooks and have way more than I should. In addition to actually buying them, I find it hard to resist them when someone’s giving them away, so I have a bunch that I no longer have a clue where they came from. This happens to be one of those books, but it turns out it was written by Anna Tasca Lanza whose family owns Tasca d’Almerita, another excellent Sicilian winery.  The book is organized by seasons and so I picked two out of the fall section – one to pair with this wine and one to pair with Tenuta di Fessina’s Il Musmeci Etna Rosso Riserva 2012 which I’ll be sharing very soon. 


I decided to adapt a recipe for Sficone, a Sicilian pizza, just because I couldn’t resist. This is a super cheesy version with caramelized onions and a little anchovy mixed in, although you really don’t taste them – they just add a little something to the background. When I say it’s super cheesy, I mean SUPER cheesy. It uses five different cheeses and I think I used maybe half the total quantity called for –– it was still incredibly decadent. We LOVED it! We typically go for thin crust pizzas around here, but couldn’t get enough of this thick, biscuity crust. The pairing was also wonderful. The cheese and a crust brought out the rounder side of the wine, and that hint of anchovy spoke to the salinity in the wine. Meanwhile, the citrus notes in the wine refreshed the palate between each decadent bite. The food and the wine elevated each other in the match, each making the other more luscious. This pizza pairing was on another level. 


 
 
Pizza
dinner, lunch, appetizers
Italian
Servings: 6 large slices or 12 appetizer-sized slice
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson, Recipe adapted from The Heart of Sicily by Anna Tasca Lanza
Print
Cheese Sficone with Onions

Cheese Sficone with Onions

Prep Time: 10 MinCooking Time: 2 Hourinactive time: 50 MinTotal Time: 2 Hours 10 Min
This is a super cheesy Sicilian style pizza. The original recipe called for A LOT – I used about 1/2 to 2/3 of the quantity asked for on this pie. Here I've given a range, so basically use as much as suits you.

Ingredients

For the dough
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup semolina flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 (¼ ouce) package of dry yeast
  • 1 cup warm water
  • 1 egg
  • 2 Tbsp butter, diced
For the toppings
  • 2 medium onions, thinly sliced or diced (pick your textural preference, I went with diced)
  • Olive oil, as needed
  • 4 anchovy fillets, minced, or 1 tsp anchovy paste
  • 8 oz fresh mozzarella, sliced
  • ½ cup to 1 cup shredded Emmentaler
  • ½ cup to 1 cup shredded Gouda
  • ¼ to ½ cup grated Parmesan
  • ⅛ to ¼ cup grated Pecorino or Caciocavallo
  • 2 to 3 Tbsp dried oregano
  • Breadcrumbs, for topping
  • Salt, to taste
  • Pepper, to taste

Instructions

  1. Combine the flours in a bowl with the salt. Make a well in the center, then add the yeast, water, egg, and butter. Work the dough until it begins to come together, then blend in a mixer using the dough hook attachment for about 10 minutes, until the dough becomes smooth and elastic. Alternatively, turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and knead by hand. It’ll initially be wet, then start to become smooth after 3 to 4 minutes, and smooth and elastic after 10 to 15 minutes. Allow the dough to rest for about 15 minutes so that it’s easier to work with.
  2. Sauté the onions in a generous amount of olive oil over medium heat until they begin to turn golden and lightly caramelized – about 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the anchovies or anchovy paste and season with salt and pepper.
  3. Oil a 9 x12-inch rimmed baking sheet drizzled with olive oil. Roll out the dough and shape to fit the pan. Spread the onion and anchovy mixture. Place the slices of mozzarella across the pizza, follow with the Emmentaler and Gouda, then Parmesan and Pecorino –– use as much cheese as is to your liking. Sprinkle the oregano and bread crumbs on top. Press the ingredients into the dough, cover with a kitchen towel, then put it in a warm spot and allow it to rise until doubled, about 45 minutes.
  4. Preheat oven to 400°F.
  5. Place the Sficone in the oven and bake until the cheese has melted and the crust is golden brown underneath – about 35 to 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand for 15 minutes, then cut into pieces and serve.
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*****
 
For more on Sicily, check out these posts:
  • Cooking to the Wine: Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Sicilia Rosso with Creamy Eggplant and Tomato Zoodles
  • A Passion for Sicily with Passopisciaro: An Interview with Sarah H. Bray, Part 1  
  • A Passion for Sicily with Passopisciaro: An Interview with Sarah H. Bray, Part 2  

*****
 
The rest of the Italian Food, Wine, Travel (#ItalianFWT) blogging group is exploring Italian wines from volcanic regions. Explore these fascinating areas by checking out their posts here:
  • Camilla at the Culinary Adventures with Camilla features A Single-Varietal Carricante, an Etna Exclusive, & Lapsang Souchong-Braised Duck Legs.
  • Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm declares Grapes Grown in Volcanic Soil Produce a HOT Wine!!!
  • Gwendolyn of Wine Predator has you Meet Mt Etna’s Volcanic Wines: Sicily’s Tenuta Monte Gorna and Tenuta di Fessina with Pairings.
  • Lynn at Savor the Harvest writes about Volcanic Wine in the Veneto.
  • Terri at Our Good Life shares Ashes to Ashes: Volcanic Wine and Sicilian Lentil Soup.
  • Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles offers Mount Etna – The Awesome Power of Active Volcanos, and Yes, Red Wine with Fish.
  • Linda at My Full Wine Glass discusses the wines of Benanti – Capturing the Soul of Mount Etna Wine.
  • Susannah at Avvinare is Exploring the Colli Berici in the Veneto.
  • Cindy at Grape Experiences shares Personality, Elegance, Value: Tenuta Tascante Ghiaia Nera 2017 from Etna DOC.
  • Nicole at Somm's Table is Exploring Etna with Tenuta di Fessina
  • Jen, our host, at Vino Travels posts Fried Eggplant Topped with Fresh Tomatoes and Ricotta Paired with I Custodi Etna Rosso.
 

Additional reading and sources used for this post

  • Wine Enthusiast: A Beginner’s Guide to the Wines of Sicily 
  • The Tasting Panel: 10 Things to Know About Sicilian Wine 
  • Forbes: How Volcanic Soils Halted A Winemaking Scourge On Sicily’s Mount Etna 
  • NY Times: Etna Fumes and Spews, but the Winemaking Goes On
  • Wines of Sicily
  • Food & Wine: Volcanic Wine 101: What You Need to Know About This Booming Category 
  • What makes the wines of Etna so special? 
  • Saveur: 10 Fantastic Sicilian Wines
  • JJ Buckley:Volcanic Soils and their Effect on Wine 
  • Wine; Tasted!: The Contrada system on Mount Etna 
  • Wine-Searcher.com

 

This post contains affiliate links, including these Amazon links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you. 

 


We're getting back to basics with a cheat sheet of Italian wine essentials. Italian wine can be super daunting when you're first starting out thanks to the number of grapes and regions, but we'll try to break down the essentials into bite-sized pieces by looking at labeling terms and key regions including Tuscany, Piedmont, Sicily, Veneto, Puglia, and Emilia-Romagna. Consider this your CliffsNotes for Italian wine basics.
View from Elvio Cogno in Barolo. Photo by Greg Hudson

Hope your 2020 is off to an amazing start!

I’m kicking off the new DECADE by getting back to basics with a cheat sheet of Italian wine essentials. This is not as simple a task as it would appear. Italian wine can be super daunting! With 20 different regions and an astonishing number of grapes (in Native Grapes of Italy Ian D’Agata covers 500 different native varieties, and that isn't close to an exhaustive list), it can be really difficult to know how to begin to get a handle on the wines. That said, the wines are so intertwined with the amazing cuisine and are so captivating that it is well worth the effort.

Let’s see if we can break down the essentials into bite-sized pieces. Consider this your CliffsNotes for Italian wine basics.
Map courtesy of WineFolly.com


LABELING

Naming

Let’s start with the naming of wines in Italy, because even this can be maddening. Wines can be named by the region, the grape, or a combination of both. For the most part, there’s no easy way to parse this out other than just diving in and getting to know them. However, if you see a preposition like di, d’, or della (of or from), things get a little easier as this is usually a combination of the grape and place. For example, Barbera d’ Alba is made of the grape Barbera, coming from the commune of Alba in Piedmont.

The Quality Pyramid(s)

If you’ve ever looked at an Italian wine bottle, you might’ve noticed a little flag of paper wrapped around the capsule with letters like “DOCG” – these are indicative of the quality tier the wine falls into under the Italy’s appellation system. These indicators also will appear somewhere on the labels.

There are four basic tiers:

•    DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) is the top of the Italian wine pyramid. To achieve DOCG status, wines must comply with a very strict set of rules overseeing everything from the grape varieties, production area, grape ripeness/alcohol levels, permitted yields, winemaking procedures, and aging requirements.  These wines are also subject to inspections and official tastings to ensure that they meet the standards of the specific region. 

•    DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) is the next tier down and covers the grand majority of the traditional Italian wine styles. There are also specific sets of regulations overseeing the production of these wines, although they tend to be less strict than those overseeing DOCG wines. That said, DOC’s that show a consistent quality track record can be promoted to DOCG status.  

•    IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica): This classification was added in 1992 as a way to give winemakers some flexibility and room for experimentation. Before then, there was really no way to indicate wines that were of good quality, but fell outside of DOC/DOCG rules. So if you were a winemaker who wanted to play with grapes other than those sanctioned by the region, there was really nowhere on the quality ladder to put the resulting wines. The IGT designation focuses on the region rather than specifics of grapes or winemaking styles. 

•    VdT (Vino da Tavola)/ Vino: This is the most basic level of the Italian wine pyramid. Vino da Tavola translates to “table wine.” Prior to the creation of the IGT category, all the quality experimental/non-traditional wines that fell outside the DOC/DOCG rules fell into this camp. Nowadays, it has been renamed as Vino and it might appear on a label as Vino d’Italia. These tend to be inexpensive and can be a blend of different grapes, regions, and even vintages. These wines will not be labeled with a region or a vintage.


Knowing these tiers can be a very useful tool when picking out a wine. It’s not to say that every DOCG wine will be better than every DOC wine, etc. There are plenty of exceptions. However, if you’re staring at two bottles at a wine store and you know nothing else about either of them, but one is DOC and the other is DOCG, it’s a fair bet that the DOCG wine will be of higher quality because it has been held to stricter standards. 

Aging Tiers and Other Terms


Beyond the overall quality pyramid, different regions might have their own quality pyramids in addition to this, as well as additional terminology. A lot of times these terms will center largely around aging requirements, alcohol levels, and/or classical boundaries. For example, Chianti has the following tiers/classifications, all of which are DOCG :
  • Chianti: This is a DOCG, but it covers 38,000 acres of vineyards, which is quite a big area with multiple subzones. 
  • Chianti Classico: By comparison, the Classico zone is made up only 17,800 acres of vineyards and essentially follows the original boundaries for the region, which were expanded over time. (Soave/Soave Classico, and Prosecco/Prosecco Superiore DOCG present similar situations.) The wines also require a one-year minimum period of aging before they can be released. 
  • Chianti Classico Riserva: These wines are made within the Classico zone, but as a "Riserva," they require aging for two years in barrel, plus an additional three months in bottle.
  • Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: Wine must be aged for at least 30 months in oak barrels. This category was created to signify the highest quality standards, and wines must be made from all estate fruit as well. Additionally, Gran Selezione wines might not be made every year. This is a fairly new designation introduced in 2014.

Another term you might see on a bottle that isn't represented here is "Superiore," which can have different meanings depending on the region. In all cases, however, the wine must meet stricter standards to use the term, be it higher alcohol/grape ripeness, more aging, or vineyards from better locations. For more on Italian wine label terminology, see this useful guide on Wine-Searcher.com.

Now that we know the basic quality tiers and terms,  let’s take a look at some of Italy’s regions.


KEY REGIONS


The areas included here were chosen because of either their importance in fame and reputation, or in terms of production. There are so many wonderful regions in Italy worthy of exploration and I’d certainly encourage you to branch out.

 

Tuscany

Tuscan landscape view taken in Montalcino. Photo by Nicole Ruiz Hudson.


Since we’ve already been talking about Chianti, let’s start with Tuscany where it is located. Tuscany is also quite probably Italy’s most famous wine region, thanks to its beautiful rolling landscape and sunny weather. It’s easy to see why it’s so celebrated. Seriously, you see so many romantic pictures and paintings of the region that they can start to seem cliche. Then you go and you see that they weren’t exaggerating one tiny bit. It’s just that pretty.

Located in central Italy, the area generally enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with warmer, temperate coastal areas, and cooler temperatures in hilly, central areas with increased diurnal variations.

Star Grape: Sangiovese

Key Areas: Most of Tuscany’s most famous appellations – Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – have Sangiovese in the leading role. Each of these has their own local variation or clone, but they’re all Sangio. (Sangiovese is also the most planted grape in Italy overall.)

Other Important Players: Vernaccia and Vermentino for white wines. You’ll also find a good amount of Chardonnay. Canaiolo and Colorino are other local red grapes allowed in Chianti in small amounts.

Also Notable: Super Tuscans. The unofficial term for Tuscan wines made from international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. These wines account for the main reason the IGT category was created. They originally fell under the VdT category, but started commanding hefty sums of money and lots of critical acclaim, making the quality pyramid look rather strange.  

Posts & Pairings for Tuscan Wines:
  • Cooking to the Wine: Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile and Spicy Salami Tomato Pasta
  • Cooking to the Wine: Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico with Italian Meatloaf  and Pasta Pomodoro 
  • Exploring Castello di Brolio & On Location Pairings From the Home of Chianti Classico
  • Cooking to the Wine: Barone Ricasoli Brolio-Bettino Chianti Classico & an Italian Twist on Pulled Pork  
  • Brunello, a Book, and a Boston Butt: Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino with Italian Braised Pork  
  • An Afternoon at CastelGiocondo  
  • A Stop at Brancaia and a Pizza Night 
  • Lunching and Tasting at Fattoria dei Barbi
View from Brancaia winery. Photo by Nicole Ruiz Hudson

Piedmont

Vineyards at Manzone in Monforte d'Alba in Piedmont. Photo by Greg Hudson.

Located in northwestern Italy, Piedmont is Tuscany’s rival in fame, and it actually has more DOCG’s than any other region in the country. Piedmont, or Piemonte, means “foot of the mountains,” and indeed it’s a hilly region located at the foot of the Western Alps on the border with France, and the Apennine Mountains are to the southeast. The region has a continental climate and it’s colder here than in most of the rest of Italy. It can also get quite a bit of fog, particularly in the valleys. (The pic at the top was also taken in Piedmont and shows some of the fog.) That said, the mountains protect the region from getting a lot of rain.

Star Grape: Nebbiolo

Key Areas: Barolo and Barbaresco are the region’s most famous appellations and are both made from Nebbiolo. (Find less pricey versions from Roero and  under the regional appellation Langhe, among others.)

Other Important Players: I love Nebbiolo, but Piedmont has a wealth of other excellent grapes, most of which are better priced for everyday. Other reds include Barbera (particularly from Asti and Alba), Dolcetto (from Dogliani and Alba), and lesser-known but delicious grapes like Freisa. There are excellent white wines are wells from aromatic Arneis and Cortese which is found in the wines of Gavi. This is also the home of the lightly sweet and sparkling Moscato d’Asti.



Posts & Pairings for Piemontese Wines:
  • Cooking to the Wine: Fontanafredda Barolo and Braised Short Ribs with Mushrooms
  • Classically Contratto: Beautiful Wines from Italy's Oldest Sparkling Wine House
  • Contratto Millesimato and Vitello Tonnato Two Ways
  • 8 & $20: Braised Chicken Thighs in Mushroom Sauce
  • Marenco Pineto Brachetto d'Acqui and a Simple Strawberry Treat 
  • The Wide World of Italian Bubblies  
  • 5 Nights of Barbera
  • An Anniversary Celebration with La Spinetta Vürsù Gallina Barbaresco and Braised Spatchcocked Duck
  • Cozy Date Night In with Gnocchi with Easy Pork Ragù
  • Touring & Dining at Marchesi di Barolo
  • A Deep Dive into Nebbiolo at the Culinary Cabin

 

Sicily

Passopisciaro Vineyards in Contrada Guardiola, on Mt. Etna, Sicily. Photo courtesy of Sarah H. Bray.

Sicily is Italy’s most southern region and its largest island – actually it’s the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It has the climate to match with lots of sunshine and moderate rainfall. The quality of the region’s wine suffered for a while, but they’ve made concerted efforts to right the ship and now the region is a darling of sommeliers. The region is also 4th in terms of production volume.

Principal/Star Grapes: Catarratto (white) and Nero d’Avola (red) are the first and second most planted grape varieties.

Key Areas: Etna DOC covers Mount Etna – the slopes of this volcano makes for very interesting vineyard area. Currently, the island’s only DOCG is Cerasuolo di Vittoria which is located in the southeastern section of the island and is made of Nero d’Avola and Frappato.

Other Important Players: This is another region with many very interesting grape varieties. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio form a small part of the overall production, but are key grapes on Mount Etna. Other key white grapes include Grillo and Inzolia. In addition to dry still wines, Marsala, the island’s famous fortified wine, is also made of these two grapes along with Cataratto, of which there is a lot on the island at varying levels of quality. (A total of ten different grapes are permitted for Marsala.) Of course, you’ll also find the international varieties here, as in most places.



Posts & Pairings Related to Sicily:
  • Cooking to the Wine: Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Sicilia Rosso with Creamy Eggplant and Tomato Zoodles
  • A Passion for Sicily with Passopisciaro: An Interview with Sarah H. Bray, Part 1
  • A Passion for Sicily with Passopisciaro: An Interview with Sarah H. Bray, Part 2
  • 8 & $20: Creamy Chicken and Vegetable Crepes
  • 8 & $20: Chicken and Spinach Lasagna Rolls 
  • Exploring Etna with Tenuta di Fessina 
  • Use Whatcha-got- Eggplant Lasagna

Veneto

Landscape from iLatium Morini (producers of Valpolicella, Amarone, and Soave.) in Veneto, outside Verona. Photo by Greg Hudson

Moving back up the boot again to the northeastern quadrant. It produces the most wine in terms of volume than any other Italian wine region. It is also the home of several, completely distinct styles of wine. Here is a quick run-through of a few:

Valpolicella and Amarone: The grapes for the region of Valpolicella are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, and Oseleta, and typically make for easy-drinking wines. Amarone della Valpolicella uses the same grapes, but makes a very different style. The grapes for Amarone are dried a bit to concentrate the flavors. The wines are dry, but have raisin-like flavors which is an interesting juxtaposition. (Dessert wines are also made using grapes dried in this way, but are called Recioto della Valpolicella.) The area is within an easy 30 minute drive from Verona.

Soave: Crisp white wines based on the grape Garganega. Look for those labeled Classico for more serious versions produced from the original zone that is made up of mostly hillside vineyards. In addition to dry wines, Soave can also be made in Recioto styles.

Prosecco: Bubbly wines made from the semi-aromatic Glera grape, typically via the tank method. Prosecco vineyards begin just outside Venice. The classic heartland of the region, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, is situated in the hills about 30 to 40 minutes from the city.

Other Important Players: There is a ton of Pinot Grigio planted in Veneto, as is the case throughout northeastern Italy. The region of Bardolino, located next to Lake Garda, makes wines from the same grapes as Valpolicella. Veneto shares the area of Lugana with Lombardy, and while the area is not well known, it makes wonderful wines from the grape Turbiana (aka Verdicchio, Trebbiano di Lugana). Pinot Nero, Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc, and Carmenere are all here too.

Posts & Pairings Related to Veneto:
  • Cooking to the Wine: Inama Soave Classico with Brown Butter and Herb Crayfish Rolls
  • The Sweet Side of ILatium Morini: Sette Dame Recioto di Soave Classico with an Old-Fashioned Strawberry Cake
  • Cooking to the Wine: Sorelle Bronca Extra-Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG with Poached Chicken with Pears and Gorgonzola
  • Three Nights of Prosecco Holiday Fun: Carbonara, Sabering, Friends, with a Side of Pear Endive Spears
  • One Afternoon in Lugana at Podere Selva Capuzza
  • 8 & $20: Chicken Paillard Salad With a Fresh White
  • 8 & $20: Buffalo Chicken Meatball Slider
  • 8 & $20: Arctic Char With Orange-Scented Fennel and Onions
  • 8 & $20: Lamb Chops with Mint Gremolata and Minty Mashed Peas
  • 8 & $20: Chicken Breasts with Pesto 'Zoodles'
  • 8 & $20: Shrimp Wontons and a Bright White
  • Entertaining with 8 & $20 with a Side of Travel Memories: Lamb Chops with Mint Gremolata and Minty Mashed Peas 
  • The History of Amarone at Cantina Valpolicella Negrar, and Domìni Veneti Amarone Classico with Decadent, Braised Lamb Shanks 
  • The Wide World of Italian Bubblies 
  • Allegrini: Feeling Posh in Valpolicella at Villa della Torre
  • Duca di Dolle BRT Prosecco Superiore with Creamy Fennel Pasta with Orange and Shrimp (Sponsored Post)

Puglia

Puglia (sometimes pronounced Apulia by English speakers) is a long, skinny region that makes up the heel of the boot. The warm, Mediterranean climate and terroir of the region make it ideal for grape-growing, and it is extremely productive – in 2018, it came in second after Veneto in terms of production by volume. The majority of the wine produced here is still cheap bulk wine, but there have also been moves to improve quality in recent years.

Principal Grapes and Key Areas: It’s hard to pick just one or two star grapes for this region since it’s long and varied, making a ton of wine, but that also is still differentiating itself. Sangiovese is the region’s most planted grape. In the northern part of the region, you’ll also see a lot of other grapes typical of central Italy like Montepulciano (not to be confused with the town of Montepulciano in Tuscany). Primitivo (aka Zinfandel in the US) is another important grape in the region and is the star in the region’s first DOCG, Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale. There is also dry Primitivo di Manduria, but it remains a DOC. Negroamaro is the star of many of the region’s southern DOC’s, such as Salice Salentino. There is also quite a bit of Nero di Troia. In terms of white grapes, there’s a lot of high-yielding Trebbiano, which contributes to the bulk wine production. Verdeca is a rare white grape now found almost exclusively in central Puglia in the towns of Taranto and Bari. The international grapes are all here as well, and have also often been a big part of the bulk wine production. The area also makes quite a bit of Vermouth.


Posts & Pairings Related to Puglia:
  • Two Sides of a Coin: Primitivo and Zinfandel (with Ribs Two Ways)
 

Emilia-Romagna

This is another fertile wine region but in north-central Italy, surrounded by Tuscany, Liguria, Lombardy, and Veneto and the Adriatic Sea to the east. It’s a large region and in 2018, it was the third most prolific region after Veneto and Puglia.

Star Grape: Lambrusco (actually, a group of grapes)

Key Areas: There are several DOC’s in the region focusing on Lambrusco and representing different styles: Salamino di Santa Croce, di Sorbara, Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Reggiano, and Modena which encompasses the whole province of Modena.

Other Important Players: Malvasia is an important white grape for the region and is often also used to make lightly sparkling wine. Trebbiano, Barbera, Bonarda, Sangiovese, and the internationals are all here as well.

Pairings & Posts Related to Emilia-Romagna:
  • Cooking to the Wine: Pezzuoli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro with Antipasto Pizza 
  • The Wide World of Italian Bubblies  
  • The Lighter Side of Lambrusco



I will be updating this from time to time with wine recs, pairing ideas, and additional post links as I cover more of these regions in depth.


*****

The rest of the Italian Food, Wine, Travel (#ItalianFWT) is also getting back to Italian wine basics and thinking about how they'd introduce friends to Italian wines. Check out their posts here:
  • Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares “Sips and Eats Around the Boot: A Primer to Italian Wines and Pairings”
  • Lynn at Savor the Harvest shares “Introducing the Diversity of Italian Wine”
  • Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “Ringing in the New Year with Loved Ones and Prosecco“
  • Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings shares “Sharing Lugana DOC – Winter Whites With Friends #ItalianFWT #luganawines“
  • Marcia at Joy of Wine shares “The World of Italian Wine: Where Do I Begin?“
  • Gwen at Wine Predator shares “4 To Try in 2020: Italy’s Franciacorta, Fruili, Chianti, Mt. Etna“
  • Cindy at Grape Experiences shares “Why the Wines and Food of Custoza DOC are Some of Veneto’s Many Pleasures”
  • Susannah at Avvinare shares “Three Noble Red Grapes that Help to Navigate the Italian Peninsula”
  • Linda at My Full Wine Glass shares “What exactly IS this Italian grape?”
  • Jen at Vino Travels shares “The Beginnings to Understanding Italian Wine”
  • Kevin at Snarky Wine shares “Cutting Your Teeth on Italian Wines”
  • Katarina at Grapevine Adventures shares “3 Grapes to Get a Beginner’s Taste of Italian Wine”
  • Jeff at Food Wine Click! shares “Italian Wine 101 – Start Your Journey Here”


Additional resources used for this post and extra reading:

  • The Oxford Companion to Wine via JancisRobinson.com
  • Wine-Searcher.com  
  • Italian Wine Central: Top Ten Most Planted Grape Varieties in Italy
  • Italian Wine Central: Wine Production by Region The Culture Trip: 5 Italian Wine Regions You Should Know
  • La Gazzetta Italiana: A Tour of Italy's Top Wine Regions
  • Food Republic: The Five Italian Wine Grapes You Need to Know  
  • Wine Folly: The Best Italian Red Wines for Beginners  and The Five Best Italian Wines Beginners Must Try



This post contains affiliate links, including the following Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.


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