February is all about the love. 

There’s Valentine’s Day of course. My husband and I also celebrate our wedding anniversary a couple of days after that. I love love and I’ve written several posts in the past in honor of both of those days. But as celebrating Galentine’s Day on February 13th has increasingly gained traction, February has also become a time for women to celebrate our female friendships. I actually met my childhood best friend on Valentine’s Day, so for me, the two things have been tied together as of way back. So, today I thought I’d raise a glass in honor of Galentine’s Day and all my girlfriends, even if we’re about a week past it. 

Image borrowed from Bustle.com

I’m lucky to have several groups of awesome women in my life, without whom it would’ve been REALLY hard to get through the last couple of years. I’ve been feeling sentimental lately (and a bit cooped up) and have been going through memories of good times with some of these ladies. Many of these memories are centered around food and wine, and today I thought I’d share one of them. 

Last September, a group of my besties decided to rent an AirbnB in Windsor, California for what was basically just a big adult girls’ sleepover. While we were in Sonoma County, and we did make an obligatory stop at Ridge Vineyards in Lytton Springs  (it’s a group favorite), this weekend wasn’t about wine tasting. It was the first time this group was able to all get together in person since the start of the Zombie Apocalypse, so this was mostly about just getting to hang around a pool together without kids or partners, and laugh and ride the wonderful emotional roller coaster that is an extended period of time with a big group of ladies. It was also a chance to be responsibly irresponsible and drink and eat too much. 

Most of our group at Ridge. A couple of other members of the group met us later at the house.

As is often the case in these types of scenarios, I offered to run point on cooking lunch and dinner on our pool day. (Don’t ask me to do breakfast – I’m NOT a morning person.) My friend Selin had picked up some beautiful branzino at Costco for the occasion, and I picked up a few more things at the grocery store, and with her and a couple of others as sous chefs, I prepared a very pretty and tasty spread, if I do say so myself. The best part is that this was incredibly easy. When I say easy, it was EASY – this lunch was prepared while chaos was going on around all around me, and as you might guess, while being just a wee bit tipsy. 

The branzino were simply stuffed with a mix of garlic, herbs, and lime and grilled on the BBQ. We added some roasted zucchini and a salad as sides, and the lunch feast was served. A non-recipe follows, but it really about as simple as that.  My friend Dee brought a magnum of Palmer & Co. Champagne for the occasion – because nothing says it’s a party like a mag of Champers! 

Champagne Palmer & Co. Blanc de Blancs

Winery at Champagne Palmer & Co. Image borrowed from promotional materials.

Champagne Palmer & Co was established in 1947 by seven grower-families with the common goals of “harmony, balance and the pursuit of excellence.” All of Palmer’s vineyards in the Montagne de Reims subregion of Champagne are classified as Premier Cru or Grand Cru. This represents more than 500 acres and over 50% of their vineyard area. The rest of it lies in the Côte de Sézanne area, the Côte des Bar and the Marne Valley, for a well-rounded selection. 

The company is also committed to sustainable winegrowing and winemaking. In 2019 they inaugurated a new, state-of-the-art HQE (High Environmental Quality) certified winery near their vineyards in Montagne de Reims. The winery incorporates a wide set of techniques and technologies to be as sustainable as possible including a gravity-flow system that utilizes the slope of the land and a water purification system that uses plants’ root systems to clean wastewater. 

For more details on the winery and its innovations, check out this interview by Jill Barth of L’Occasion with Rémi Vervier, managing director of Champagne Palmer & Co. for Forbes.

The Blanc de Blancs we enjoyed on our girls’ weekend is made up of 100% Chardonnay. Their B de B wine is typically aged on the lees for 5 years, and 8 to 10 years in the case of the Magnum. Find additional details on the wine here.

I did not take a proper tasting note for this wine – I was having too good a time during this lunch for note-taking. However, in my memory, it had bright fruit with lots of lemon mixed with some round stone fruit notes, hints of white flowers, and minerality on the finish. It paired beautifully with the food and hysterical laughter. 

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The rest of the members of the French Winophiles (#Winophiles) blogging group are exploring Wines of Romance this month. Check out the rest of their posts to keep the love going.  

• Susannah of Avvinare is "Falling In Love All Over Again, With Champagne".
• Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles shares "Finding the right wine for Romance…we chose a trip to the Loire". 
• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla is "Keeping It Spicy: Blackened Salmon + Domaine Lafage Cuvee Nicolas 2018".  
• Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm says "Love is in the Air and We are Spicing Things Up with a Cahors Wine paired with an American Steak".
• Cathie of Side Hustle Wino tells us "Love is on the Table".
• Terri of Our Good Life  sings "Wild Thing, I Think I Love Le Pont Bandol and Wild Caught Orange Roughy" 
• Gwendolyn of Wine Predator dishes up a twofer with "It’s Loveuary! Romance from France: Fun Fondue, Coq a Vin" and "Clink sustainably: Create climate conscious conversations with Bordeaux Wines and Stemple Creek Ranch Beef "

Last year we spent Thanksgiving weekend with our good friends and Corona-pod buddies Lucy and Drew. The feasting was not limited to just one day. We were only four people, but we collectively cooked for a full house as this group tends to go a little over the top. This meant LOTS of leftovers and many opportunities for leftover makeovers. PLUS, lots of wines pairing to go with it all. 

Last year I started an intended tradition of sharing the previous year’s feast and pairings. Given the copious amount of food last year, I’ll also be sharing all of those ideas to use up your leftovers as well!

Also, check out my Thanksgiving Pairing Guide Round Up.

Note: This post contains sample bottles. No other compensation was received and all opinions are my own. 

THE FEAST

The menu for the day included:

• Rolled turkey with sausage stuffing wrapped in bacon. Drew ordered this out, and we all focused on the rest
• Herbed mushrooms, similar to how my mom makes them 
• Cornbread stuffing with chiles and green onions 
• Potatoes Gregoire topped with cheddar and green onions 
• Brussels sprouts tossed in bacon jam 
• Butternut squash with brown butter and crispy sage
• Pan de Jamón, Venezuelan bread stuffed with ham, raisins, and olives)
• Black bottom oatmeal pie and custard apple custard pie with whipped cream

The feast day wines:

(Mind you, we didn’t actually finish all of these that night.)

While we cooked and noshed on apps we enjoyed J Winery Brut Russian River Valley, Kivelstadt Cellars The Family Secret Indian Springs Ranch Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma Valley 2018, and Twill Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir Molly's Vineyard Willamette Valley 2019. These are all great crowd-pleasers that will pair happily with lighter fare. Plus, it’s a celebratory day, so gotta have some bubbly!

Domaine Ostertag Pinot Gris Alsace 2012 was our bridge wine leading into dinner as it also works easily with most of the dishes on the table, but particularly dishes with a hint of sweetness like the butternut squash, and the the bit of age on this one only helped align the flavors. I think it also matches nicely with slightly richer dishes. 

Pinot Noir is a Thanksgiving classic because of its ability to match with many dishes in the feast. New World version, in particular, have the fruit to work with a lot of those tricky, slightly sweet dishes too, but they also tend to have a savory, herbal quality that works with those flavors as well. Our selection was from Melville Winery Estate Pinot Santa Rita Hills 2010. Scribe Winery’s St. Laurent Carneros 2017 played a similar role, but from an unexpected grape, so it’s a fun choice for those who want to try something a little different.    

We all enjoyed a little L. Garnier Chartreuse as a digestif to make it all go down easier. 

Makeover 1 -Turkey Sandwiches

Well, obviously. They’re always a must after Thanksgiving.  .  . However, these might’ve been a little bit extra. Drew torched the slices of rolled turkey stuffed with sausage, layered on lardo, and piled it all on slices of challah bread. These were particularly delightful with a little mustard. Given that this was a pretty indulgent sandwich, a simple green salad on the side was definitely called for. 

We took a break from vino for lunch. 

Makeover 2 – Steak, Potatoes, and Veggie Gratin

We took a little break from turkey with dry-aged steak which Drew prepared sous vide finished with herbs and butter. On the side, we had a second round of Potatoes Gregoire, because they're just awesome as is. 

The actual leftover makeover came into play with the veggies. I turned the Brussels sprouts and butternut squash into a gratin. 

You can easily turn most leftover veggies into a gratin with this non-recipe formula: Make a bechamel, melt in cheese, pour it all over veggies in a baking dish, sprinkle a little more cheese on top along with some bread crumbs, then bake it all at 350° F until its all bubbly and browning on top.

We this round of feasting we enjoyed Thee & Thou El Rucio Grenache and Syrah Santa Ynez 2017 while cooking and to start. It’s medium-bodied, with both ripe fruit and freshness, and very versatile. It’s great on its own and with food, particularly the gratin in this case. 

The steak could certainly take a bigger wine, so stepped things up to Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006, which worked beautifully with the meatiness.  

The boys had a little Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky at some point along the way. We also had some Kopke White Port Colheita 2003 as a digestif. 

Makeover 3 - Hangover Hash Brunch

This group has a longstanding tradition of making "Hangover Hash" for brunch at least once during every multi-day gathering. Despite the name, no hangover is actually required and non was involved this time around. 

All that’s required for this non-recipe is that you crisp up some leftover potatoes, sauté and add in onions if you have them, then add in any leftover veggies you think will go well, followed up with any leftover proteins you want –– in this case, we added in steak from the night before, but turkey, ham, or all of the above, work too. Top it all with a fried egg and serve. It never disappoints! 

We also had a side of holiday fruit and yogurt to go along with our hash, since at this point something lighter was definitely needed! I mixed baking spices and a little maple syrup in the yogurt, then added a pinch of ground clove to orange slices and raspberries to give them a holiday feel. It was super yummy and definitely brought the lighter element needed.

Drink up any remnant from bottles, or switch things up in favor of a beer or bloody mary, or just give your liver a break. All good, no judgments.

Makeover 4 - Turkey Pot Pie

Turkey Pot Pie is always a contender for my favorite Thanksgiving leftover makeover. So comforting!

Here’s the non-recipe: Sweat a diced-up onion or shallot until translucent. Add in a couple of diced up cloves of garlic if you want once the onions are nearly cooked, then add in your turkey and any leftover veggies you want to use up that you think will work. I used mushrooms and butternut squash here, and you can also bulk it up with additions like frozen peas. Pour in your leftover gravy, plus a little more chicken or turkey stock or water to dilute it down to a soupy consistency. Feel free to season with herbs and spice. Allow everything to simmer. Pour it all into an oven-safe dish if it isn't already in one. Put your crust on top. I made a biscuit topping to put on top, but to make this even easier use store-bought pie dough or flaky pastry dough. Bake it all at 350°F until everything is bubbly and the topping is golden, and serve. 

If you prefer more of a recipe, find one here. (Plus, you'll find a couple of extra leftover makeovers.)

We were pretty sure that this Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2008 was going to be a good pairing, but it turned out even better than we’d expected. AMAZING combo. I was sure it would work with the mushrooms, but the wine had gained sweet-savory notes in its age that were absolutely beautiful with the squash and sauce as well.

Makeover 5 – Dueling Croquettes

Things got a little competitive for this round of leftover makeovers. Drew and I went head to head in a duel to use up more leftovers.

I made stuffing croquettes out of the cornbread stuffing with chiles and green onions. Here’s the non-recipe: This stuffing was super flavorful, so I didn't feel like I had to do much in terms of flavoring. I added a little shredded cheese plus an egg for binding, then formed the mixture into balls. I rolled the formed balls around in flour, whisked egg, and bread crumbs, then fried them up until crispy.  I served them with cheese sauce and hot sauce.  

Drew made arancini with a bit of an Asian spin. These were rice balls with turkey/sausage fried up until crispy – kind of similar to Japanese Spam Musubi, but with the leftover meats instead. He then topped them with seared lardo and a spicy sauce. (I can’t give you a non-recipe since this one wasn’t mine.)

It might've been a dual, but there were no losers here since it was all delicious! (Plus, I think we each think we won.)

We had these with Symington Altano Branco Douro 2019 (sample), which made a lovely pairing for both croquettes. Afterward, we also tried a Quinta da Foz Douro 2017 and it was also delicious. Both of these wines have a balance of richness and brightness to match both the texture of the food and liven up the palate. 

Happy Thanksgiving!

And if you’re looking for ideas for how to use up leftovers, here are a few ideas:
Mushroom, Kale, and Ham Quiche
Turkey Enchiladas
Stuffed Acorn Squash
Post Turkey Day Leftover Makeover Trio 

Join me for a conversation with Kristin Olszewski, creator of Nomadic Wines, a line of conscientiously made canned wines. Then stay for a casual rooftop brunch of smoked salmon sandwiches with herbed goat cheese spread paired with Nomadica’s Sparkling Rosé Monterey 2018 in support of the Bâtonnage Forum mentorship program. 

Nomadica’s Sparkling Rosé Monterey 2018 paired with smoked salmon sandwiches. Note that this wine was received as a media sample. No other compensation was received, and as always, all opinions are my own.

If you’re not on the canned wine bandwagon, it’s really time to rethink things and get over those pre-conceived notions. Canned wines are perfect for packing for hikes, picnics, or hanging by the water, and there are some really wonderful options out there, made by innovative, quality-conscious producers. It gets even better when buying the cans supports a good cause. 

I helped to organize the first two years of Bâtonnage Forum, a day-long event “stirring up the conversation on women in wine.” In 2020 it went virtual as Bâtonnage://Connect. Shortly after the conference, they also introduced a mentorship program pairing up women at different levels in their careers. While I didn’t attend, the 2021 forum was a hybrid affair with virtual panels and an in-person tasting event. 

It’s still possible to support the cause,  and as a bonus, you can drink well at the same time. This year Bâtonnage partnered up with Nomadica Wines to offer a canned sparkling rosé of Pinot Noir to benefit the mentorship program – 100% of proceeds go directly to the program. Like the rest of Nomadica’s wines, the grapes for this one are sustainably farmed, and the wine is made via low intervention methods, with minimal sulfur, is completely dry, and vegan. And of course, the wine is delicious with tangy notes of bright strawberries, raspberries, with a bit of white peach and delicate fizz.  

Nomadica’s founder and CEO ​​Kristin Olszewski has quite an impressive profile. She was on her way to a pre-med degree when she switched paths and decided to pursue wine instead. She worked as a sommelier at an impressive list of restaurants including Osteria Mozza, Husk, F10 Creative, and Straight Wharf, and is currently the Beverage Director at Gigi’s in Los Angeles. She was also named as one of Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40 this year. 

I had a chance to talk to Kristin over email to get to know both her and Nomadica Wines a little better. 

Here’s our conversation.

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You earned degrees in Sustainable Agriculture and Gender Studies, so with hindsight, in some ways, it seems like the journey to creating a line like Nomadica was preordained. However, you nearly went down a very different road. You were on your way to a pre-med degree and applying to med-school when wine drew you in. What was it about wine that enamored you and called you down this path?

I’ve always worked in restaurants with inspiring Beverage Directors - smart, talented, interesting people who taught me how to love wine. I didn’t grow up in a family that drank wine, but once I began to learn that great wine didn’t need to be expensive (and wasn’t just for the ultra-wealthy), I was hooked. Wine is the perfect marriage of farming, storytelling, romance (and a little party). 

I love that mix of factors too!

You’ve worked at a pretty impressive list of restaurants. What have you loved and what have you found challenging about working as a sommelier and then wine director? How has your time on the floor influenced the wines in your brand?

My favorite thing about working the floor is the exhilaration of service, the thrill of getting a table who was originally intimidated to talk to a sommelier into their new favorite bottle of wine, and also having regulars become friends. It can be challenging from a lifestyle and health perspective. The long nights… I used to try and ensure I had commitments (a hike with a friend, coffee date, etc.) that incentivized me to get home early and take care of myself! 

That’s really smart and it’s so important to prioritize wellness. On the other hand, that exhilaration from service must be quite the rush since you’re continuing to work in restaurants even now. Has it been a challenge to start your own brand while maintaining the demanding hours of restaurant work? (I’d imagine the last year provided a bit of a break on that front.) How have you juggled the two?

It has been so difficult. I’m very lucky to work with great people at Gigi’s who are incredibly accommodating of my travel schedule and hectic existence. I know I’m a little crazy but as a buyer, you have the opportunity to taste so much wine! It’s truly the thing I’m most passionate about and tasting a beautiful wine really enhances my day. 

I’ve never worked in fine dining, but feel the exact same way – a beautiful wine can be completely enchanting.

I admit that I love the convenience of canned wines, but it took me a while to come around to them. I read that you too were skeptical about canned wines in the beginning. What brought you around and won you over?

My partner brought me a high-end Pinot Noir she’d convinced a winemaker to sell her for the can and it tasted AMAZING. I really went in wanting to hate it and my brain broke when I smelled that glass (I always pour my cans into the glass). Additionally, when I discovered the increased recyclability and insanely reduced shipping emissions, I was sold. 

That’s a great tip and I completely agree – whenever possible, I also pour canned wines into a glass.

Let’s move on to the Nomadica wines! The website notes that you choose grape varieties specifically for the can. What are you looking for in a grape to present in this format?

I source bright, fresh wines as those tend to be the best out of can. We also look for universally appealing flavor profiles. I always think to myself, “If I had this at a wedding, would everyone love it?”

That makes sense, now let’s talk about where those grapes come from. Nomadica pairs with carefully selected small producers to create the wines you release. What are you looking for in the producers you work with?

I look for sustainable farming practices, no pesticide usage in vineyards, no chemical additions of any kind done in the cellar. I’m also very grateful to really enjoy all the people I work with. Working with great humans truly does make life better. 

100%! All of Nomadica’s wines are made via low-intervention methods. Are there particular considerations for making low-intervention wines in cans?

None different than low-intervention wine in bottle! ;) We source from growers who practice sustainable farming, no chemical intervention in the cellar. I’m not a sulfur purist by any means, but you really don’t need it in the can so we don’t use it. 

That’s interesting regarding sulfur and cans – it does make sense.

The artwork on the various cans is really beautiful. How do you see the art integrating with the wine in each can, and with the brand as a whole? How do you search out the artists you work with? 

Something I noticed when working the floor is that so many wine-drinkers lack the language with which to describe their own tastes in wine - but they know what they like. As a sommelier, I used to work off of unconventional poetic imagery to break through that barrier (and make it less intimidating) rather than discussing the levels of tannin, etc. At Nomadica, because we don’t have that ability to talk directly to our customers all the time, we thought it would be fun to describe the flavor of the wine visually. Cue in the art! Each can acts as a tasting note for the wine inside. 

I love that!  Tell me about the artwork on this specific can by Alisha Sommer.

I wish I could take credit for selecting it but the incredible women of Batonnage were responsible for selecting it! Our entire team *loved* the photograph. Alisha’s also an incredible writer. I think Alisha has this distilatory (is that a word) quality to her work, it’s as though someone is handing you the purest form of an emotion. 

It’s really arresting. I also love the tasting notes for this wine you share on the website, particularly when you describe it as “eating raspberries inside of a waterfall.”  What’s the story of this rosé?

Growing up in Western Massachusetts, summertime always involved picking wild raspberries and swimming in rivers! When I tasted our Sparkling Rose for the first time, it immediately brought me back to that memory. I love how pure the fruit is in a California rosé while still having all that freshness and acidity one wants on a hot day! This pinot noir from Monterey, CA is the perfect expression of that. 

Any favorite pairings for this wine?

It's just *so* crushable. It pairs well with ceviche, fish tacos, burgers, fried chicken, raw salads, Mediterranean foo. I honestly think it's one of our most versatile wines! 

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In keeping with the go-anywhere spirit of canned wines, I decided to enjoy the can I received during a rooftop brunch. I wanted to keep the food similarly low-stress and portable, so I made smoked salmon sandwiches on Trader Joe's Everything Ciabatta Rolls layered with thick slices of heirloom tomatoes and a super simple herbed goat cheese spread. 

Obviously, this sandwich took inspiration from a NY bagel platter, but the ciabatta rolls have a softer, fluffier texture. Of course, you can substitute in whatever type of bread or bagel you prefer. I also thought the herbed goat cheese spread brought a little something special to the party and elevated the sandwich. It also worked beautifully with the wine and helped tie the sandwich and the wine together in a harmonious way. Paired with a sunny day, it all made for a wonderful weekend morning. 

cheese, spread

brunch, appetizer, sandwich spread

Servings: varied

By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson

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Herbed Goat Cheese Spread

Prep Time: 5 MinCooking Time: 5 MinTotal Time: 10 Min

This cheese spread is super simple and can easily be adapted to suit your tastes. It’s also a non-recipe, which means that you don’t need to be beholden to exact quantities.

Ingredients

• 4-oz log of goat cheese (Feel free to use a larger log and adjust the rest of the ingredients as needed. Or, if you don’t like goat cheese, you can also use cream cheese, or use a combination of the two)
• Picked thyme, starting with about 1 Tbsp (use less or more to suit tastes)
• Chopped chives or green onions, starting with about 1 Tbsp (use less or more to suit tastes)
• Heavy cream, start with 2 Tbsp and add in as needed, (you can also substitute sour cream or plain yogurt)
• Salt, to taste
• Pepper, to taste

Instructions

1. Add all ingredients to a bowl and use an immersion blender to combine until you reach a creamy, spreadable texture, adding more cream gradually as needed. Adjust seasonings as needed.
2. You can also use a food processor or mix by hand.

https://www.sommstable.com/2021/08/rooftop-brunching-with-nomadica-rose-and-q-and-a-with-Kristin-Olszewski.html

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