I’ve been taking a summer vacation from the blog for a few weeks, and as I’m reemerging this week, I think it’s only appropriate to toast with a bottle of bubbly. 

Today we’re going way, way, way Down Under. We’re picking up our exploration of Australian wine, and we’re going about as far south in the country as you can go to Tasmania. Australia’s Island State is known for its Devils, gorgeous scenery, and incredibly clean air. It’s also a pretty ideal place to make sparkling wine – so let’s go ahead and pop a bottle!

Cheers!

An Intro to Tassie Wine

Map borrowed from WineFolly.com

Tassie wines are still somewhat undiscovered gems. They represent less than 1% of Australia’s wine production, but they’re known for their quality, and as a result, this is one Australian winemaking region where demand outpaces supply. 

Despite the production numbers being small, winemaking history goes back to the early days of Australia’s European settlement. Its first vineyards were planted in 1823 – which gives it a potential claim over the Hunter Valley, which is generally cited as Australia’s oldest region. The issue is that after its early start, winemaking on the island pretty much dried up for about a century starting in the second half of the 1800s and then reemerged in the 1950s, so it hasn’t been continuous. 

Tasmania is way down south – located between the southern parallels of  40° and 44° latitude, about 150 miles (240 km) off the coast of Victoria. As you can probably imagine, things get can get chilly around these parts, so the grapes they focus on as pretty different from much of the rest of mainland Australia. Rather than Shiraz, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon which like the heat, we see grapes that like the cool maritime climate take center stage here. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay take the top spots for plantings, and those are followed by Sauv Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. (We saw this in the Yarra Valley* in Victoria, and now we’re even farther south.) 

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay also happen to be the grapes most traditionally used for traditional method sparkling wines, and much like Champagne, cooler climates tend to be perfect for making bubbly as the grapes retain lots of crisp acidity. Lo and behold, Tasmania has developed a reputation for making some of the country’s best sparkling wines. Moreover, Australia’s first sparkling wine was made in Tasmania in 1826.

Tasmania’s landscape is dominated by dolerite-capped mountains which give the island its complex geography with many varying terroirs and micro-climates. Most notably, the mountains on the western side create a rain shadow that blocks the majority of rain from hitting the island’s seven major growing areas: North West, Tamar Valley, Pipers River, East Coast, Coal River Valley, Derwent Valley, Huon Valley / d'Entrecasteaux Channel. 

Thanks to the shifting and colliding of continents, plus volcanoes, and the movements of bodies of water, Tasmania’s soils are incredibly diverse. If you have a few minutes to geek out, check out this video for a mind-bending look at their geology.

The Wine: Jansz Premium Cuvée Brut Tasmania 

Alcohol: 12%  | Price: $19.99 (Purchased at K&L) 

Jansz Tasmania has been solely focused on sparkling winemaking since 1986. Champagne house Louis Roederer saw similarities between the climate in the Pipers River region, where the original vineyards are located, and that of Champagne, and they decided to partner with the owners of Heemskerk Wines to create Tasmania’s first premium, traditional method sparkling wine house. The Hill-Smith family purchased the property in 1998 and they’ve established it as one of the most highly regarded family-owned sparkling wine houses in Australia. 

The winery’s name pays homage to Tasmania’s namesake, the Dutch explorer Abel Janszoon Tasman who first sighted the island in 1642. When the vineyards were first established in 1975, they were named after Tasman’s ship, the Heemskerk. 

Image borrowed from Jansz's website.

The Pipers River region has a maritime climate but also gets a lot of sunshine hours, making it excellent for grape-growing. Cool winds from the Bass-Strait also helps to moderate temperatures in the vineyards from becoming too extreme both in the summer and winter, resulting in a long, cool, sunny growing season that allows the grapes to ripen slowly and develop their flavors.  The Janz vineyards here sit on a bed of free-draining red basalt soils, which also adds to the minerality of the wines. 

The wines are made in traditional method and they've put a little spin on the "Méthode Champenoise" and call their take "Méthode Tasmanoise":

Méthode Tasmanoise is the embodiment of every aspect of our unique place. It goes beyond terroir, beyond winemaking. Méthode Tasmanoise encapsulates our Tasmanian way of life and our respect for our environment, the natural wilderness, our clean air, fertile soils, pristine waters, the untamed oceans. It celebrates our unique crafts and the synergy between our wares and our surrounds. Most of all, Méthode Tasmanoise embraces the people that call our island state their home

The Hill-Smith family owns several wineries around Australia and they are all run sustainably. They lay out quite a few of the details of their practices here. The particular bottling we’re talking about today is certified sustainable and vegan friendly.

We opened the Jansz Premium Cuvée Brut Tasmania NV and were greeted with notes of lemon cream and apple blossom on the nose. On the palate, the wine was crisp and bright with a mixture of crunchy green and gold apples, lemon juice and curd, white peach, a hint of berry, a touch of toast and brown sugar, and lots of salinity.

For the price, this is a lovely bottle of bubbly.

Geeky Details

The Pairing: Lobster Tartines with Leeks and Mushrooms

In looking up what foods are commonly grown and produced in Tasmania, I discovered that it is one of the world’s leading suppliers of lobster and abalone. Pairing this bubbly with buttery lobster seemed like a perfect way to go! 

Lobster need not be fancy. In this case, I decided to serve it on grilled bread as a tartine, or open-faced sandwich, topped with sautéed leeks and mushrooms that I thought would bring out the wine’s more earthy notes and tease out hints of herbal flavors. In the end, the dish I came up with to pair with this wine is more about assembly rather than any elaborate cooking.

I ran into one tiny snag when I went to the grocery store – no lobster. No abalone either. I found my solution in the freezer section via Luke’s Lobster pre-packaged knuckle and claw meat. It proved quite tasty and very convenient. (I was addicted to Luke’s Lobster rolls when we lived in New York.) I simply thawed the meat and tossed it all in warm, melted butter and heated it gently, then sprinkled it with a bit of included seasoning. 

The only thing on this dish that required real preparation was the leeks and mushrooms, and that only requires only a few ingredients and little attention. Despite this, the combo becomes really saucy and flavorful. I use the same mix in many different ways including to top all kinds of proteins, mixed into a grain bowl, on a sandwich, or in an omelet or quiche. If you add more stock or water it becomes a fabulous base for a soup, and if you stir in a touch of cream when it comes off the heat, it's fabulously completely decadent. 

In this case, as I mentioned, I layered the leeks and mushrooms on slices of buttery grilled bread, along with arugula, and the buttery lobster meat. The pairing was just lovely and worked even better than I’d hoped. The wine would show different facets with each bite. With the buttery sweet lobster meat the plumper, riper fruits note would come out. The char on the bread at times brought out the wine’s toastiness. At other times, earthier and more minerally notes came out to play. Mostly, it was simply delicious and refreshing with the tartines. 

***** 

*****

The rest of the World Wine Travel blogging group (#WorldWineTravel) is exploring the wines from Tasmania, as well as other Aussie Sparklers and Stickies this month. Check out the rest of their posts:

• Lori is tasting “Tasmanian Sparkling and Egg Rolls” at Exploring the Wine Glass
• Camilla is showcasing “Tasmania + Hawaii: Celebrating with an Island Wine and Island Eats” at Culinary Adventures with Camilla 
• Jeff shares how we can “Discover Rutherglen Stickies” at Food Wine Click!
• Robin is pairing “Sparkling Wine from Jansz Tasmania and a Tassie-inspired seafood curry pie” at Crushed Grape Chronicles
• Kat has a “Surprise! South Australia Pét-Nat is on the Rise” at The Corkscrew Concierge
• Susannah is featuring “Tasmanian Chardonnay” at Avvinare
• Deanna is popping an “Australian Sparkling Wine from Deviation Road” at Wineivore
• Linda is having “Sparkling Aussie Shiraz as summer draws to a close” at My Full Wine Glass

Join me for a conversation with Kristin Olszewski, creator of Nomadic Wines, a line of conscientiously made canned wines. Then stay for a casual rooftop brunch of smoked salmon sandwiches with herbed goat cheese spread paired with Nomadica’s Sparkling Rosé Monterey 2018 in support of the Bâtonnage Forum mentorship program. 

Nomadica’s Sparkling Rosé Monterey 2018 paired with smoked salmon sandwiches. Note that this wine was received as a media sample. No other compensation was received, and as always, all opinions are my own.

If you’re not on the canned wine bandwagon, it’s really time to rethink things and get over those pre-conceived notions. Canned wines are perfect for packing for hikes, picnics, or hanging by the water, and there are some really wonderful options out there, made by innovative, quality-conscious producers. It gets even better when buying the cans supports a good cause. 

I helped to organize the first two years of Bâtonnage Forum, a day-long event “stirring up the conversation on women in wine.” In 2020 it went virtual as Bâtonnage://Connect. Shortly after the conference, they also introduced a mentorship program pairing up women at different levels in their careers. While I didn’t attend, the 2021 forum was a hybrid affair with virtual panels and an in-person tasting event. 

It’s still possible to support the cause,  and as a bonus, you can drink well at the same time. This year Bâtonnage partnered up with Nomadica Wines to offer a canned sparkling rosé of Pinot Noir to benefit the mentorship program – 100% of proceeds go directly to the program. Like the rest of Nomadica’s wines, the grapes for this one are sustainably farmed, and the wine is made via low intervention methods, with minimal sulfur, is completely dry, and vegan. And of course, the wine is delicious with tangy notes of bright strawberries, raspberries, with a bit of white peach and delicate fizz.  

Nomadica’s founder and CEO ​​Kristin Olszewski has quite an impressive profile. She was on her way to a pre-med degree when she switched paths and decided to pursue wine instead. She worked as a sommelier at an impressive list of restaurants including Osteria Mozza, Husk, F10 Creative, and Straight Wharf, and is currently the Beverage Director at Gigi’s in Los Angeles. She was also named as one of Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40 this year. 

I had a chance to talk to Kristin over email to get to know both her and Nomadica Wines a little better. 

Here’s our conversation.

 

*****

You earned degrees in Sustainable Agriculture and Gender Studies, so with hindsight, in some ways, it seems like the journey to creating a line like Nomadica was preordained. However, you nearly went down a very different road. You were on your way to a pre-med degree and applying to med-school when wine drew you in. What was it about wine that enamored you and called you down this path?

I’ve always worked in restaurants with inspiring Beverage Directors - smart, talented, interesting people who taught me how to love wine. I didn’t grow up in a family that drank wine, but once I began to learn that great wine didn’t need to be expensive (and wasn’t just for the ultra-wealthy), I was hooked. Wine is the perfect marriage of farming, storytelling, romance (and a little party). 

I love that mix of factors too!

You’ve worked at a pretty impressive list of restaurants. What have you loved and what have you found challenging about working as a sommelier and then wine director? How has your time on the floor influenced the wines in your brand?

My favorite thing about working the floor is the exhilaration of service, the thrill of getting a table who was originally intimidated to talk to a sommelier into their new favorite bottle of wine, and also having regulars become friends. It can be challenging from a lifestyle and health perspective. The long nights… I used to try and ensure I had commitments (a hike with a friend, coffee date, etc.) that incentivized me to get home early and take care of myself! 

That’s really smart and it’s so important to prioritize wellness. On the other hand, that exhilaration from service must be quite the rush since you’re continuing to work in restaurants even now. Has it been a challenge to start your own brand while maintaining the demanding hours of restaurant work? (I’d imagine the last year provided a bit of a break on that front.) How have you juggled the two?

It has been so difficult. I’m very lucky to work with great people at Gigi’s who are incredibly accommodating of my travel schedule and hectic existence. I know I’m a little crazy but as a buyer, you have the opportunity to taste so much wine! It’s truly the thing I’m most passionate about and tasting a beautiful wine really enhances my day. 

I’ve never worked in fine dining, but feel the exact same way – a beautiful wine can be completely enchanting.

I admit that I love the convenience of canned wines, but it took me a while to come around to them. I read that you too were skeptical about canned wines in the beginning. What brought you around and won you over?

My partner brought me a high-end Pinot Noir she’d convinced a winemaker to sell her for the can and it tasted AMAZING. I really went in wanting to hate it and my brain broke when I smelled that glass (I always pour my cans into the glass). Additionally, when I discovered the increased recyclability and insanely reduced shipping emissions, I was sold. 

That’s a great tip and I completely agree – whenever possible, I also pour canned wines into a glass.

Let’s move on to the Nomadica wines! The website notes that you choose grape varieties specifically for the can. What are you looking for in a grape to present in this format?

I source bright, fresh wines as those tend to be the best out of can. We also look for universally appealing flavor profiles. I always think to myself, “If I had this at a wedding, would everyone love it?”

That makes sense, now let’s talk about where those grapes come from. Nomadica pairs with carefully selected small producers to create the wines you release. What are you looking for in the producers you work with?

I look for sustainable farming practices, no pesticide usage in vineyards, no chemical additions of any kind done in the cellar. I’m also very grateful to really enjoy all the people I work with. Working with great humans truly does make life better. 

100%! All of Nomadica’s wines are made via low-intervention methods. Are there particular considerations for making low-intervention wines in cans?

None different than low-intervention wine in bottle! ;) We source from growers who practice sustainable farming, no chemical intervention in the cellar. I’m not a sulfur purist by any means, but you really don’t need it in the can so we don’t use it. 

That’s interesting regarding sulfur and cans – it does make sense.

The artwork on the various cans is really beautiful. How do you see the art integrating with the wine in each can, and with the brand as a whole? How do you search out the artists you work with? 

Something I noticed when working the floor is that so many wine-drinkers lack the language with which to describe their own tastes in wine - but they know what they like. As a sommelier, I used to work off of unconventional poetic imagery to break through that barrier (and make it less intimidating) rather than discussing the levels of tannin, etc. At Nomadica, because we don’t have that ability to talk directly to our customers all the time, we thought it would be fun to describe the flavor of the wine visually. Cue in the art! Each can acts as a tasting note for the wine inside. 

I love that!  Tell me about the artwork on this specific can by Alisha Sommer.

I wish I could take credit for selecting it but the incredible women of Batonnage were responsible for selecting it! Our entire team *loved* the photograph. Alisha’s also an incredible writer. I think Alisha has this distilatory (is that a word) quality to her work, it’s as though someone is handing you the purest form of an emotion. 

It’s really arresting. I also love the tasting notes for this wine you share on the website, particularly when you describe it as “eating raspberries inside of a waterfall.”  What’s the story of this rosé?

Growing up in Western Massachusetts, summertime always involved picking wild raspberries and swimming in rivers! When I tasted our Sparkling Rose for the first time, it immediately brought me back to that memory. I love how pure the fruit is in a California rosé while still having all that freshness and acidity one wants on a hot day! This pinot noir from Monterey, CA is the perfect expression of that. 

Any favorite pairings for this wine?

It's just *so* crushable. It pairs well with ceviche, fish tacos, burgers, fried chicken, raw salads, Mediterranean foo. I honestly think it's one of our most versatile wines! 

*****

In keeping with the go-anywhere spirit of canned wines, I decided to enjoy the can I received during a rooftop brunch. I wanted to keep the food similarly low-stress and portable, so I made smoked salmon sandwiches on Trader Joe's Everything Ciabatta Rolls layered with thick slices of heirloom tomatoes and a super simple herbed goat cheese spread. 

Obviously, this sandwich took inspiration from a NY bagel platter, but the ciabatta rolls have a softer, fluffier texture. Of course, you can substitute in whatever type of bread or bagel you prefer. I also thought the herbed goat cheese spread brought a little something special to the party and elevated the sandwich. It also worked beautifully with the wine and helped tie the sandwich and the wine together in a harmonious way. Paired with a sunny day, it all made for a wonderful weekend morning. 

 This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.

THE WINE & PAIRINGS

OTHER POSSIBILITIES

THE GEEKY DETAILS

MONEY TALK

A couple more shots just to tempt you.