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A bottle of Shiraz from Hope Estate and a meat pie bring back happy memories from time spent in Australia.


Once upon a time, in 2009, Greg and I spent four months in the land down under. Greg took advantage of a study abroad program while in business school and spent a semester at the University of New South Wales (UNSW) in Sydney. I quit my job and went with him. They were four of the best months of my life.


He arranged his schedule to give us plenty of time for exploring while we were in Sydney, and I’d spend the days he was in class wandering Sydney on my own. When the schedule allowed for more time, we’d rent a car and go road trips to branch out further. On top of that, the other students at the business school, the Australian Graduate School of Management (AGSM), were a very welcoming, interesting, and fun lot. They planned many events and excursions that we were able to join in on. Among these was a wine tasting tour of the Hunter Valley, which is only a couple of hours north of Sydney. 


On that particular excursion, one winery stood out from the rest – Hope Estate. It was definitely our favorite of the day. We were also distinctly aware that we’d been a bit tipsy by the time we got there, as it was the last stop in a long day, so it was possible that our preference had been set thanks to the extra good vibes we were feeling by that point in the day. However, we’d brought back several from the trip, and our favorite was borne out as we tried the wines again back at our flat over the next few weeks – this time with clearer heads. 


Hope Estate back in 2009


This was all before I’d dived into the wine life, but the name stuck with me – it is a fairly easy one to remember. I’ve recently seen an occasional bottle from the estate pop up at local wine stores and on Wine.com, which has been a fun blast from the past. 



A Brief History of the Hunter Valley 


Map borrowed from Winefolly.com


We’ll be talking about the Hunter Valley again soon, so I’m going to break up the discussion on the region into two parts. Today we’ll take a look at its history. 


The Hunter Valley is Australia’s oldest winemaking region. This makes sense, given the region’s proximity to Sydney, where the first Europen arrived and established the first penal colony. Prior to their arrival, the Wonnarua  ("people of the hills and plains") inhabited the upper Hunter region for at least 30,000 years. The Worimi held the northeastern shores, and the Awabakal were located around the southeastern shores. 

 

The Hunter River was first spotted by European settlers in 1797 by accident. Lieutenant John Shortland was on a search for escaped convicts when he spotted the river. The Hunter Valley went on to become a valuable source of timber and coal for steamships. A land route to the area wasn’t discovered until 1820. By 1823, there were already about 20 acres of vineyards planted along the Hunter River in what is now the Dalwood /Gresford area between the towns of Maitland and Singleton.  


James Busby, the 'godfather' of viticulture in both Australia and New Zealand, changed the game in the 1830s. He returned to New South Wales after an extensive tour studying European wine regions with around 500 (pre-phylloxera) vine cuttings. Busby’s brother-in-law William Kelman took up one of the first official land grants at Kirkton on the Hunter River using a replica set of these cuttings. By 1840 the Hunter Valley’s vineyard area had boomed to 500 acres (200 hectares) and its reputation as a wine-growing region had been established. 


The Pokolbin area, the region Hope Estate is in, had established itself as a quality zone by 1930. Sadly, war and economic turmoil slowed down further expansion. Things wouldn’t pick up again until the second half of the 20th century, but there are now over 150 wineries in the Hunter Valley.



Hope Estate Basalt Rock Shiraz


Hope Estate. Image borrowed from the Hope Estate website.


It would appear that Hope Estate has expanded quite a bit since we visited. In addition to wine, they have spirits, beer, and a 20,000-seat amphitheater that hosts major concerts. Maybe I didn’t see it or just didn’t notice because of my tipsy state, but there wasn’t anything so grand in my memories. 


Hope Estate was established in 1994 by Michae Hope, a former pharmacist who gave up his career to make wine. He and his wife Karen purchased their first vineyard at Broke in the Hunter consisting of 30 acres of vines on a 250-acre property. They then purchased a winery in 1996 and the first vintage of Hope Estate was released in 1997. Additional vineyards have been added since, including in Victoria and Western Australia, and a new winery followed in 2006. All of the wines are made from estate-grown grapes  in their Hunter Valley headquarters



I ordered a bottle of the Hope Estate Basalt  Rock Shiraz 2018 from Wine.com ($16.99) and I opened it the same it arrived. I was honestly a little worried about the wine because it arrived on a very hot day and it tasted a little off when we first opened it. (Wines can get “cooked” if they spend time in extreme heat.) Luckily, it improved quite a bit once we cooled the bottle down a little bit and allowed the wine to breathe. It’s a good reminder that serving temperature can make a big difference – the ideal range for big red wines is generally considered to be around 63°-68°. 


Once the wine had a chance to open up, it showed notes of blackberry, plum, bay leaf,  and charcoal on the nose. On the palate, the fruit was juicy with just a touch of jamminess. Savory touches of bay leaf, cedar, olives, and black pepper joined in on the mid-palate, softened by a touch of vanilla, and there was a hint of stony charcoal hint on the finish. It was reminiscent of Rhône Syrah in style, but with riper fruit notes. It was medium + in body with balanced acidity.



Geeky Details


Taken from the tech sheet. 


Alcohol: 14%     

Blacked: 100% Shiraz 

Winemaking:  Estate Grown – 100% Family Owned - The Basalt Block is located in the Hunter Valley among the hills of the Broken Back Mountain Range. The range was formed by volcanic activity leaving the red soil rich with basalt. This mineral-rich soil produces the finest quality, low-yielding grapes which Hope Estate winemakers use to make this single vineyard wine. Matured in new and old French hogsheads for 13 months. 



The Pairing: Aussie Meat Pies


While in Oz, we developed a taste for the meat pies that are so ubiquitous there. They’re inexpensive, portable, and delicious – what’s not to love?! Food trucks, street carts, and food stalls everywhere sell these hand-held pies filled with beef in gravy. You might find different flavor variations and additions to the filling; for example, in addition to the classic, I often liked mushroom and curry flavors as well. The pies are often served topped with mushy peas, or you might drizzle on ketchup or hot sauce. 




Greg and our friends Marc and Dan eating meat pies in the CBD.



I thought I’d recreate the memory to pair with this wine. I’d originally intended to go all in and make individual hand-held pies, but it was crazy hot out on this particular day and it got to me, so I decided to cut myself a break and make a single large pie in the end. Hand-held pies will have to wait for another occasion.  


I looked at quite a few recipes for meat pies before creating my own. I noticed many recipes used a combination of short-crust for the bottom shell, and flaky puff pastry for the top and I decided to go this route, but other versions choose to just use one or the other. I made the short-crust but used store-bought puff pastry. (Making puff pastry is a headache I do not need, thank you very much!) Feel free to go with what appeals to you. 



I also made mushy peas to go with the pies. I often forget how easy it is to make this and how satisfying the results are. Heat a bag of thawed frozen peas in a pot, add a bit of flavoring, then mash them up using an immersion blender or food processor – that’s it! A little sriracha was the final topper to the ensemble.  


The wine paired nicely with the meat pies. To be honest, it worked best with the pie alone, without the hot sauce or the peas, but the combo is just too good to pass up. 













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The World Wine Travel (#WorldWineTravel) blogging group is exploring the wines of New South Wales this month. Be sure to check out their posts:

  • A Scruffy Shiraz with Urban Smoked Short Ribs by FoodWineClick!
  • Chili de Moira + Beelgara Winery Estate Shiraz 2017 by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • Yellow Tail Wine is from NSW, Who Knew?? by A Day in the Life on the Farm

Additional sources used for this post and extra reading:

  • Winecountry.com
  • Wine-searcher.com
  • Jancisrobinson.com
  • HunterValley.com
  • Sydney.com
  • Australia.com
  • HunterValley.com
  • HunterValleyTourSydney.com
  • Kazzit.com


Isn’t it the BEST when something you’ve been really looking forward to actually manages to top your expectations?! I can’t say it happens all the often, but our visit to Bodegas Emilio Moro was definitely beyond expectation.

I’d become a big fan of Emilio Moro’s wines while I was working at Wine Spectator in New York and always relished the chance to get to taste their wines, particularly their top-tier wines like Malleolus de Valderramiro and Malleolus de Sanchomartín. These were out of my usual price point, but I always found seductively delicious with their deep dark fruit flavor, spices, and silky texture.

José Moro, the company’s president, happened to be pouring when I stopped by the winery’s table at Wine Spectator’s Wine Experience in 2013. (The Wine Experience is big tasting event where selected wineries from around the world are invited to pour for the public and partake in panel discussions.) I took the opportunity to mention how much I loved the wines and that I was planning to visit Spain later in the year. He was extremely kind, gave me his card, and went on to help me arrange a visit to the winery.

Fast forward a couple of months to the day Greg and I were passing through Ribera del Duero. We were in a rather dejected state when arrived at Bodegas Emilio Moro. I love the wines of Ribera del Duero, but we only had time to visit two wineries due to the extremely aggressive travel schedule we’d given ourselves. I’d chosen the wineries carefully, but our first stop of the day was TERRIBLE. Without delving too deeply into the details, I don’t mind telling you that said visit was at Bodegas Tinto Pesquera. It’s been many years now, and this still holds the title for the worst winery visit we’ve ever had by a wide margin. It's too bad as it's a historical winery in the region, and I’d previously been a fan of the wines, however, I have not bought a bottle since.

Younger versions of Greg and I during our visit to Emilio Moro. Note: Our visit was comped as I'm a member of the wine industry. As always, all opinions are my own.

By contrast, the warm hospitality we received at Emilio Moro was like a balm to our bruised spirits. The woman who greeted us and gave us a tour was so lovely and gracious. (I’ve sadly lost all my notes from this trip, so I no longer have her card with her name.) I’d met José Moro just the one time which was very brief, and yet we felt like we were treated like old friends from the reception we received on his behalf, as he was out of town on that day. In addition to the tour of the winery and tasting, we also had the chance to have a wonderful lunch at the winery’s restaurant. At the end of the visit, our spirits had been completely restored!

It’s was so typical of this trip to experience such highs and lows back to back. This visit at least was a definite high.

RIBERA DEL DUERO

 

Before I get into the winery’s history and our lunch there, let’s get to know Ribera del Duero a bit.

Map courtesy of WineFolly.com

This wine region is located on a barren plateau in Castilla y Leon in Northern Spain. The name translates to the riverbanks of the Duero, and it follows its namesake river for 70 miles between Valladolid and Aranda, and about two hours north of Madrid. 

 

Map courtesy of Ribera y Rueda

The growers of Ribera Del Duero have a tough climate to contend with. They’re fairly inland, so the climate is continental and swings between long, cold winters and short, intense summers. The altitude (600 m/2,000 ft) helps to cool things off at night in the summer, stretching out the ripening process, leading to grapes with intense color and flavor.


As is the case with a lot of Spain, Tempranillo is the star grape of the region – here it’s called Tinto Fino or Tinto del País – but the conditions and style here create wines with a very different profile than those of Rioja. (I think it’s really interesting to try these side by side.) Wines here tend to be much deeper, darker, more full-bodied, and more structured than those of Rioja. Historically they’ve also used more French oak, whereas Rioja used more American oak which added to the stylistic differences between the two regions, although nowadays you can find plenty of examples wines of wines using either in the latter.

The permitted blending grapes also vary a bit. Red wines must be made up of at least 75% Tempranillo, but you’re likely to find a little splash of Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, as well as Garnacha included in the mix. (Albillo is the only permitted white grape.) One tends to think of the use of these international grapes as a modern thing, but the tradition here goes back a ways as Vega Sicilia, the region’s most iconic winery, has used Cabernet since 1864.

Infographic courtesy of Ribera y Rueda

The region’s winemaking history dates back to ancient times and it received its D.O. (Denominación de Origen) in 1982, although I’ve always felt that it deserves DOCa status (the top tier) along with Rioja and Priorat. It’s possible that I’m biased because it is the first Spanish red wine region I fell in love with. This might have something to do with the fact that, IMHO, the wines have a lot of crossover appeal for lovers of big California reds. If you love Cali Cabs, these wines have a similar ripe fruit character and structure, although typically with more earthy and minreally elements mixed in. If you’re a New World red drinker looking to dip a toe into Old World wines, I think these wines are a great place to start.



BODEGAS EMILIO MORO


The history of Bodegas Emilio Moro goes back three generations. The first two, both named Emilio, grew grapes and sold them on the bulk market. In 1988, José Moro, took a big gamble and invested the family’s savings into buying winery equipment and the modern company was born. Today he runs the winery in Pesquera del Duero along with his brother Javier.

The family owns 200 hectares of their own vineyards, and they also control another 200 hectares via agreements with other growers. You can find the names of the family’s best-known vineyards on their bottlings:

  • Resalso, which was planted the year the 2nd Emilio Moro was born (1932) and has deep, cool soil. This is also their youngest vineyard.
  • Valderramiro has the winery’s oldest bush vines and is the birthplace of their great single-estate wine Malleolus de Valderramiro.
  • Sancho Martin has excellent ripening conditions and produces wines with strong tannic structure and marked acidity. These tend to be particularly good for aging.


The winery’s philosophy is to try to main a balance between tradition, innovation, and social responsibility. They use sustainable farming methods and dry farm their vineyard, believing that irrigation changes the characteristics of the fruit and prefer to showcase the personality of each vintage.
 

The family has worked hard to preserve the particular clone of Tempranillo that is found in their vineyards. They have been working with the University of León to obtain a pure version of this clone that is free of viruses and pathogens. You can see tasting notes for a wine from this clone below.
 


In addition to Emilio Moro, the Moro family also owns the Cepa21 winery in Ribera del Duero and D & D in Portugal’s Douro region. (You might’ve already guessed, but Douro is the Portuguese name for the Duero, so same river.)

FEAST AT THE BODEGA

The lunch we enjoyed at the winery after the tour was not particularly elaborate or fancy. It focused on showcasing products local tothe area and everything was simply presented and prepared, however, everything was well executed and really delicious. Both Greg and I remember this as one of our favorite meals of the entire trip.

White asparagus is typical of the region. These had a lovely buttery texture unlike anything I've experienced from asparagus before. 
A charcuterie selection is always welcome in our book!

Roast lamb is a specialty of Ribera del Duero– in fact, they consider themselves the roast lamb capital of the world. It works out perfectly then that their wines pair so well with lamb. The picture doesn't do justice to how good this was.

Creamy flan with caramel sauce for dessert.


The winery still offers this experience with the same/similar menu. I highly recommend taking advantage if you find yourself in the area.

A fun detail to look for on Emilio Moro's bottles – they all features pictures from the family's history.
 

We enjoyed the Finca Resalso 2012, Emilio Moro 2010, and the Malleolus 2009 with our lunch that day, but as I mentioned, I lost my notes from this trip. However, I was able to unearth tasting notes for their wines for similar vintages.

These wines are all 100% Tempranillo. Click on the names for more info.

Clon de la Familia 2010
Average Price: $447    
Nose: Smoke and game, char, tobacco, dark licorice, sweet spice, blackberry, and plum.    
Palate: Blackberry, plum, black cherry, Dutch chocolate, espresso bean, smoke, tobacco, and baking spice. Brooding and complex.

Malleolus de Sanchomartin 2010
Average Price: $148
Nose: Blackberry, Black cherry, red plum, dark raspberry, red flowers, baking spice, moist tobacco, licorice, and cocoa.    
Palate: Silky blend of plush back and tart, dark red fruits, dipped in chocolate, with light hints of orange peel, red flowers, baking spice, licorice. Modern style.  

Malleolus 2010
Average Price: $47    
Nose: A little bacon, blackberry, tapenade, and coffee.    
Palate: Blackberry, and mocha flavors. Still a little young (at the time of tasting years ago) and tannins were little rough to start but opened up and smoothed out with air.

The winery also makes more affordable wines as well. The Finca Resalso usually runs right around $20. I recently opened a bottle that I bought for $18 at Whole Foods.

Finca Resalso 2019
Nose: Black cherries, red plums, and white pepper.
Palate: Similar fruit notes were joined by smoke, pencil lead, and a few flower petals. Simple but bright and rich. It does also benefit from getting a bit of air, so I recommend decanting if you can. Besides the pairing below, this would make a good burger wine.


Lamb and Camembert Pockets for Pi Day


I love Pi Day. When we lived in NY my girlfriends and I would sometimes have a Pi Day potluck with both savory and sweet pies. It was always a lot of fun!

Somehow, this year it would have completely got away from me if not for reminders from these ladies on our group text chain. I wavered between pie ambitions and laziness. As we were out of a lot of things, laziness won out. That said, I could not let the day go by without making something to celebrate the day.

I found I had puff pastry dough in the freezer and I decided to make use of it. I also had lots of lamb ragu leftover after making Instant Pot Lank Shanks and some leftover Camembert. These all came together to create very easy individual pies. It’s a great way to use up the leftovers of many saucy meat dishes. I’d recommend keeping the leftovers chilled as you’re forming to the pies so that it’s easier to work with and the meat will get saucy as the pies bake in the oven. Similarly, I’d also recommend cutting up the cheese into portions and then stick them in the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes so that it also melts more slowly in the oven. A non-recipe for the pies follows. 

 

For something so simple, they were sooooooooo good! It was hard to keep from eating them all. Seeing as how lamb work so well the wines of Ribera del Duero, I used this an excuse to open the Reslaso and the wine worked beautifully with the pies! This meal definitely punched above its weight class in every way given the minimal effort that went into putting it togehter. 

 
 
lamb, pies, savory pies, easy
non-recipe, leftover makeover
American, French
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson
Lamb and Camembert Pockets

Lamb and Camembert Pockets

Prep Time: 30 MinCooking Time: 20 MinTotal Time: 50 Min
This is a tasty non-recipe (so no set quantities) to make when you have leftovers of a meaty ragu.

Ingredients

  • Store-bought puff pastry dough, thawed
  • Lamb Ragu (or meat sauce of your choosing), chilled
  • Camembert (Feel free to experiment with other cheeses – I think goat cheese would also be very good here.)
  • Any additional seasonings you desire – I added a bit of smoked paprika to the ragu I’d previously made.

Instructions

  1. Cut the Camembert into pieces and chill in the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes to firm up. (Note: If you’re experimenting with other cheeses, you might not need to worry about chilling firmer versions.)
  2. Preheat oven to 425°F.
  3. Unfold the pastry dough and cut into desired sizes. I found it easiest to simply cut along the creases where the dough had been folded to form 6 long strips.
  4. Spoon and spread chilled ragu on one half of the pastry strip, making sure to maintain about a ½ inch border from the edge. Layer pieces of cheese on top of the ragu.
  5. Fold the pastry over the filling so as to cover it. Use a fork to pinch the edges of the pockets together and seal them.
  6. Place the formed pockets on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
  7. Bake the pockets in the oven until golden brown – about 10 to 15 minutes.
  8. Remove the pockets from the oven and allow them to set for a few minutes, then serve hot.
https://www.sommstable.com/2021/03/a-phenomenal-feast-at-emilio-moro.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator

*****
Explore other posts related to our Iberian Road Trip:
  • One Day in Haro 
  • On a Hilltop in Priorat  
  • Toasting Lucky Number 13 with Clos Mogador Nelin White Priorat 
  • Cooking to the Wine: Passagem Douro Reserva with Spiced Wine Braised Octopus 
 
 

The rest of the World Wine Travel group (#WorldWineTravel) will be exploring Castilla y Leon this month, co-hosted by Alison on AdVINEtures and Lynn of Savor the Harvest. You can read the invitation post on Lynn's blog.   

Be sure to check out the rest of the group's posts:  
 
  • Allison of AdVINEtures declares Ribera del Duero: Spain’s Rising Star.
  • Co-host Lynn of Savor the Harvest introduces us to Unconventional in Castilla y Leon – Ismael Gozalo and MicroBio Wines.
  • Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla pairs Patatas a lo Pobre + Losada Bierzo 2017.
  • Steve of Children of the Grape explores Hemingway and the Plains of Spain.
  • Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm explains why Abadia Retuerta Seleccion Especial is indeed a Special Selection.
  • Terri at Our Good Life is Exploring Castilla y Leon Through Wine and Food.
  • David at Cooking Chat tempts us with his Steak Picado Recipe with Ribera del Duero Wine.
  • Jeff of Food Wine Click! reveals A Different Take on Castilla y Leon.
  • Martin of ENOFYLZ Wine Blog discusses Mesmerizing Mencia – The Star Grape of Bierzo; 2018 Raúl Pérez Ultreia St-Jacques.
  • Lisa The Wine Chef reveals Castilla y Leon, Home of Spain’s Best Kept Secret: Wine, Dine and Stay in an Luxe 12th Century Abbey Overlooking World-Class Vineyards.
  • Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles shares Rueda and Verdejo Just Keep Rolling with the #1 White Wine in Spain!
  • Nicole at Somm's Table tells us about A Phenomenal Feast at Emilio Moro.
  • Linda at My Full Wine Glass discusses Rueda Verdejo – A Crisp White Alternative to Sauvignon Blanc.
  • Susannah at Avvinare is Exploring Rueda’s Signature Grape, Verdejo.
  • Lauren at The Swirling Dervish shares Dominio del Pidio Albillo: Tasting an Unusual Spanish White Wine in Miami.
  • Gwendolyn at Wine Predator posts Cristina Forner Leads Marques de Cacerés: Her Verdejo from Rueda with Barbacoa Tacos.
 
Additional reading and sources used for this post:
  • Ribera y Rueda 
  • Wine-searcher.com 
  • Sevenfifty Daily 
  • JancisRobinson.com 
  • Winefolly.com
  • Guildsomm.com 
  • Vineyards.com: Emilio Moro
  • Skurnik.com 
 
 
This post contains affiliate links, including these Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you
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Somm's Table 2017