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A bottle of bubbly from Jansz Tasmania, pairs beautifully with a tartine topped with lobster, leeks, and mushrooms.


I’ve been taking a summer vacation from the blog for a few weeks, and as I’m reemerging this week, I think it’s only appropriate to toast with a bottle of bubbly. 

Today we’re going way, way, way Down Under. We’re picking up our exploration of Australian wine, and we’re going about as far south in the country as you can go to Tasmania. Australia’s Island State is known for its Devils, gorgeous scenery, and incredibly clean air. It’s also a pretty ideal place to make sparkling wine – so let’s go ahead and pop a bottle!

Cheers!


An Intro to Tassie Wine

Map borrowed from WineFolly.com


Tassie wines are still somewhat undiscovered gems. They represent less than 1% of Australia’s wine production, but they’re known for their quality, and as a result, this is one Australian winemaking region where demand outpaces supply. 

Despite the production numbers being small, winemaking history goes back to the early days of Australia’s European settlement. Its first vineyards were planted in 1823 – which gives it a potential claim over the Hunter Valley, which is generally cited as Australia’s oldest region. The issue is that after its early start, winemaking on the island pretty much dried up for about a century starting in the second half of the 1800s and then reemerged in the 1950s, so it hasn’t been continuous. 

Tasmania is way down south – located between the southern parallels of  40° and 44° latitude, about 150 miles (240 km) off the coast of Victoria. As you can probably imagine, things get can get chilly around these parts, so the grapes they focus on as pretty different from much of the rest of mainland Australia. Rather than Shiraz, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon which like the heat, we see grapes that like the cool maritime climate take center stage here. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay take the top spots for plantings, and those are followed by Sauv Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. (We saw this in the Yarra Valley* in Victoria, and now we’re even farther south.) 

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay also happen to be the grapes most traditionally used for traditional method sparkling wines, and much like Champagne, cooler climates tend to be perfect for making bubbly as the grapes retain lots of crisp acidity. Lo and behold, Tasmania has developed a reputation for making some of the country’s best sparkling wines. Moreover, Australia’s first sparkling wine was made in Tasmania in 1826.

Tasmania’s landscape is dominated by dolerite-capped mountains which give the island its complex geography with many varying terroirs and micro-climates. Most notably, the mountains on the western side create a rain shadow that blocks the majority of rain from hitting the island’s seven major growing areas: North West, Tamar Valley, Pipers River, East Coast, Coal River Valley, Derwent Valley, Huon Valley / d'Entrecasteaux Channel. 


Thanks to the shifting and colliding of continents, plus volcanoes, and the movements of bodies of water, Tasmania’s soils are incredibly diverse. If you have a few minutes to geek out, check out this video for a mind-bending look at their geology.


The Wine: Jansz Premium Cuvée Brut Tasmania 



Alcohol: 12%  | Price: $19.99 (Purchased at K&L) 

Jansz Tasmania has been solely focused on sparkling winemaking since 1986. Champagne house Louis Roederer saw similarities between the climate in the Pipers River region, where the original vineyards are located, and that of Champagne, and they decided to partner with the owners of Heemskerk Wines to create Tasmania’s first premium, traditional method sparkling wine house. The Hill-Smith family purchased the property in 1998 and they’ve established it as one of the most highly regarded family-owned sparkling wine houses in Australia. 

The winery’s name pays homage to Tasmania’s namesake, the Dutch explorer Abel Janszoon Tasman who first sighted the island in 1642. When the vineyards were first established in 1975, they were named after Tasman’s ship, the Heemskerk. 

Image borrowed from Jansz's website.

The Pipers River region has a maritime climate but also gets a lot of sunshine hours, making it excellent for grape-growing. Cool winds from the Bass-Strait also helps to moderate temperatures in the vineyards from becoming too extreme both in the summer and winter, resulting in a long, cool, sunny growing season that allows the grapes to ripen slowly and develop their flavors.  The Janz vineyards here sit on a bed of free-draining red basalt soils, which also adds to the minerality of the wines. 

The wines are made in traditional method and they've put a little spin on the "Méthode Champenoise" and call their take "Méthode Tasmanoise":

Méthode Tasmanoise is the embodiment of every aspect of our unique place. It goes beyond terroir, beyond winemaking. Méthode Tasmanoise encapsulates our Tasmanian way of life and our respect for our environment, the natural wilderness, our clean air, fertile soils, pristine waters, the untamed oceans. It celebrates our unique crafts and the synergy between our wares and our surrounds. Most of all, Méthode Tasmanoise embraces the people that call our island state their home

The Hill-Smith family owns several wineries around Australia and they are all run sustainably. They lay out quite a few of the details of their practices here. The particular bottling we’re talking about today is certified sustainable and vegan friendly.

We opened the Jansz Premium Cuvée Brut Tasmania NV and were greeted with notes of lemon cream and apple blossom on the nose. On the palate, the wine was crisp and bright with a mixture of crunchy green and gold apples, lemon juice and curd, white peach, a hint of berry, a touch of toast and brown sugar, and lots of salinity.

For the price, this is a lovely bottle of bubbly.


Geeky Details

Blend: 66% Chardonnay and 34% Pinot Noir

Winemaking:  Hand-picking, gentle whole bunch pressing, cool fermentation, 100% malolactic fermentation, complex assemblage, and extended aging on lees after bottle fermentation, all combine to produce a stylish and complex wine. To maximize complexity in the final wine, batches are kept separate during winemaking. Released with a minimum three months of bottle age.

Winemaker: Jennifer Doyle
 
Details are taken from the tech sheet. Additional details can be found here and here. 


The Pairing: Lobster Tartines with Leeks and Mushrooms

In looking up what foods are commonly grown and produced in Tasmania, I discovered that it is one of the world’s leading suppliers of lobster and abalone. Pairing this bubbly with buttery lobster seemed like a perfect way to go! 


Lobster need not be fancy. In this case, I decided to serve it on grilled bread as a tartine, or open-faced sandwich, topped with sautéed leeks and mushrooms that I thought would bring out the wine’s more earthy notes and tease out hints of herbal flavors. In the end, the dish I came up with to pair with this wine is more about assembly rather than any elaborate cooking.

I ran into one tiny snag when I went to the grocery store – no lobster. No abalone either. I found my solution in the freezer section via Luke’s Lobster pre-packaged knuckle and claw meat. It proved quite tasty and very convenient. (I was addicted to Luke’s Lobster rolls when we lived in New York.) I simply thawed the meat and tossed it all in warm, melted butter and heated it gently, then sprinkled it with a bit of included seasoning. 



The only thing on this dish that required real preparation was the leeks and mushrooms, and that only requires only a few ingredients and little attention. Despite this, the combo becomes really saucy and flavorful. I use the same mix in many different ways including to top all kinds of proteins, mixed into a grain bowl, on a sandwich, or in an omelet or quiche. If you add more stock or water it becomes a fabulous base for a soup, and if you stir in a touch of cream when it comes off the heat, it's fabulously completely decadent. 

In this case, as I mentioned, I layered the leeks and mushrooms on slices of buttery grilled bread, along with arugula, and the buttery lobster meat. The pairing was just lovely and worked even better than I’d hoped. The wine would show different facets with each bite. With the buttery sweet lobster meat the plumper, riper fruits note would come out. The char on the bread at times brought out the wine’s toastiness. At other times, earthier and more minerally notes came out to play. Mostly, it was simply delicious and refreshing with the tartines. 

***** 


*****

The rest of the World Wine Travel blogging group (#WorldWineTravel) is exploring the wines from Tasmania, as well as other Aussie Sparklers and Stickies this month. Check out the rest of their posts:

  • Lori is tasting “Tasmanian Sparkling and Egg Rolls” at Exploring the Wine Glass
  • Camilla is showcasing “Tasmania + Hawaii: Celebrating with an Island Wine and Island Eats” at Culinary Adventures with Camilla 
  • Jeff shares how we can “Discover Rutherglen Stickies” at Food Wine Click!
  • Robin is pairing “Sparkling Wine from Jansz Tasmania and a Tassie-inspired seafood curry pie” at Crushed Grape Chronicles
  • Kat has a “Surprise! South Australia Pét-Nat is on the Rise” at The Corkscrew Concierge
  • Susannah is featuring “Tasmanian Chardonnay” at Avvinare
  • Deanna is popping an “Australian Sparkling Wine from Deviation Road” at Wineivore
  • Linda is having “Sparkling Aussie Shiraz as summer draws to a close” at My Full Wine Glass

Additional sources used for this post and extra reading: 
  • WineTasmania.com
  • Oxford Companion to Wine via JancisRobinson.com
  • Wine Searcher
  • How Stuff Works: Ultimate Guide to Tasmanian Wine Regions

A bottle of rich Cremant d'Alsace from Pierre Sparr makes an excellent accompaniment for an elaborate cheese and charcuterie spread.


This bottle was provided as a media sample. As usual, all opinions are my own and no other compensation was received. 

We’ve started an accidental trend of bringing bottles of Cremant d’Alsace on vacations. Last year I shared two bottles that went on the road with us, and we recently continued the tradition by taking a bottle of Pierre Sparr Cremant d'Alsace Brut Reserve to share with friends at the Culinary Cabin in Tahoe. 


Our trips to the Culinary Cabin are epic feasts that go on for days. Occasionally, our friends Lucy and Drew invite us, along with a few other friends, to their family’s vacation house for little getaways that basically turn into cooking camp where we all switch off making amazing meals. In addition, there are often some pretty delicious cheese hours – happy hour, but with cheese. Our friends Dee and Drew joined in on the most recent trip, and these two turn out some phenomenal cheese spreads. (That’s not a typo, they’re both Drews. We refer to them as Northern Drew and Southern Drew respectively based on where in the state they live.) When combined with the tidbits and extra treats that the rest of us added in, the cheese hours were taken to another level this trip. 


In addition to a slew of cheeses, we also had quite a bit of charcuterie, condiments, and other goodies like olives on the table. On the night we opened the bottle of Pierre Sparr, Northern Drew also conjured up a couple of extra appetizers with the other guys as sous chefs to enjoy including crispy chicken skin, roasted mushrooms, and saucy tomatoes with grilled bread. There were also  two pots of rillets on the table, one made of rabbit and one of the pork rillets I shared in this post.  (I can now affirm that these freeze quite well.)  In the end, this cheese hour was so abundant that it completely did away with the need for dinner. 

  


Pierre Sparr Cremant d'Alsace Brut Reserve

12.5% ABV | Average Price: $21 



I’ve shared quite a few bottles of Cremant d’Alsace here over time, so I’m not going to go into a long description here, but very simply put, Cremant in sparkling wine that is made in the style of Champagne (aka traditional method or méthode traditionnelle) that come from regions other than Champagne. In this case, the wine comes from Alsace in northeastern France. 

Image borrowed from Pierre Sparr's website.

Maison Pierre Sparr has a long history spanning many generations. The family’s winemaking origins date back to 1680 under Jean Sparr. Starting in 1785, François Pierre Sparr began increasing the vineyard holdings. Jump ahead a few generations, and Charles Sparr turned his attention to developing the business, trade, and winery’s wine aging practices. His son, Pierre, became the head of the company at the age of 20 and developed the business further, and became a pioneer in estate bottling in Alsace. His motto was: “invest, progress and maintain.”

Map borrowed from WineFolly.com.

Alsace was one of the French regions most devastated by the World Wars due to its location right on the border with Germany. The domaine’s vineyards were completely destroyed during WWII. Pierre Sparr worked very hard to rebuild the domaine back to its previous prestige. His sons René and Charles continued the work and increased the vineyard holding and developed European markets for the company. The winery is now in its 9th generation in the family, and they have Corinne Perez as the current winemaker.

Today the domaine owns 15 hectares of vineyards, and they source from an additional 130 hectares supplied by well-experienced winegrowers. I couldn’t find much on the winery’s vineyard practices, however, their site does note that they do not use chemical fertilizers and they limit their yields for quality control. 

Image borrowed from Pierre Sparr's website.

Their Cremant d'Alsace Brut Reserve is a blend of 80% Pinot Blanc and  20% Pinot AuxerroisGrapes for this wine are whole-cluster pressed, with the varieties being handled separately. The wine is fermented and held in stainless steel tanks, then the still wines are blended and bottled, and then the wine spends 12-16 months on the lees before release. Find tech sheet on this wine here and here for additional details.

I found this to be a rich style of Cremant d’Alsace with lots of baked pear and apple notes. On the nose, there were pretty floral notes as well. On the palate, there were also flavors of toasted nuts and honeyed mead-like notes, at the front, and then move into fresher notes of lemon towards the mid-palate and finish. There was a creamy feel to the texture of this wine. 

This was generally a very friendly wine when it came to pairing. I can’t think of anything it clashed with on our extensive cheese and charcuterie table. Sparkling wines in general tend to pair well with fried foods, and following in that tradition, this wine paired really well with the crispy chicken skins. It also matched particularly well with the two types of rillets spread on grilled buttery bread, managing somehow to both mirror the richness of these meaty spreads, and then cleanse and lift the palate at the finish. Sweet items that you tend to find on a cheese plate like fruit, jams, confitures, and mostarda can be tricky to pair with dry wines in general, but this wine worked better than most in my experience, perhaps thanks to the richness of the fruit and the nutty flavors. This was particularly true when these sweeter items were accompanied in a bite with savory charcuterie or salty cheese. 

The wine worked generally well with most cheeses, but as there were too many on the table to discuss them all individually, I’ll just spotlight one that I really enjoyed with the wine – Brillat-Savarin Affine. We’ll take a closer look at the cheese momentarily, but I really enjoyed how these two worked together. Similar to how the wine worked with the rillettes, the wine matched the cheese’s decadent texture, but then refreshed the palate at the close of a sip.


See this post for more on Cremant in general and this post for more on Cremant d’Alsace specifically. For more on the region of Alsace, check out this post. 


Brillat-Savarin Affine

Brillat-Savarin Affine is a bloomy-rind, soft-ripened triple cream cow's milk cheese that is soooooooooo silky, creamy, and delicious that Dee refers to it as the “unicorn cheese.” 


This version comes from Fromagerie Delin and they give the following description of the cheese and its history on their site: 

This cream-enriched cheese has a rich and varied history. In fact, it was to pay tribute to Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826), an illustrious figure in the French Revolution and above all a lover of fine gourmet foods, that Henri Androuet had the idea of naming a cheese after him around 1930.

It is a soft cheese made from a lactic curd that has been enriched with cream before maturing. It can be eaten fresh, in which case the softness and creaminess will dominate with creamy notes and a hint of acidity and freshness.

With the maturing process, its attractive bloomy rind appears after a few days and will give it a more assertive character. But once again, it is the creaminess and suppleness of the cheese that are the dominant characteristics. Nuances of hazelnut and mushroom coming from the rind complement the creaminess, imparting all its aromatic complexity.

Brillat-Savarin has been a PGI since 2017, with a production area extending from the south of the Ile-de-France to Burgundy. We are fortunate to have a production site in both these areas. You’ll really be able to taste the difference.


I think it can occasionally be hard to find – adding to why Dee calls it the “unicorn cheese,” but you can find this version here.

In terms of flavor, I found it to be mild in flavor with a pleasant sour tang, but the true joy of the cheese is the luscious texture. As I mentioned, It was a lovely match with our bottle of Pierre Sparr Cremant.


Cheese this good has a tendency to disappear!


*****

For more Crémant wines with pairings, check out:
  • Crémants for Going Out and Staying In
  • 2 oz Pours: 16 French Wine Values
  • Three Off-the-Beaten-Path Pairings for Holiday Cheese & Charcuterie Platters
  • On the Road with Crémants d'Alsace

For more on Alsace, check out: 

  • Alsace-A-Palooza Part 1: The Wines
  • Alsace-A-Palooza Part 2: Flammekueche & Cheese
  • Alsace-A-Palooza Part 3: Chicken with Riesling and Veggie Sides
  • Cooking to the Wine: Zind Humbrecht Pinot Blanc with a Leek & Bacon Tart
  • 2 oz Pours: Favorite Pairing Moments

Both Pierre Sparr’s website and VinsAlsace.com have many more pairing ideas for wines from the region – check out their websites for more inspiration. 

I received two additional bottles of Cremant d’Alsace as samples for participation in this month’s French Winophiles event. Sadly, Greg and I got stranded on vacation on the east coast with COVID (luckily not too bad) and the other bottles are waiting for me at home. Perhaps the bottles of Cremant were a lucky charm on previous trips, as we had managed to avoid the plague up until now.


*****

The rest of the French Winophiles are discussing Cremant d'Alsace this month, hosted by Jill Barth of L'Occasion. Be sure to check out the rest of their posts for more pairing ideas: 

  • Cremant Wine Battered Perch; Michigan and French Classics Collide on A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • A Thai Green Curry Lesson + Willm Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé on Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • Crémant d’Alsace: An Elegant Sparkling Wine from France on Grape Experiences
  • Crémant d’Alsace - Exploring the Nuances of France’s 2nd Favorite Sparkling Wine on Crushed Grape Chronicles
  • Crémant d'Alsace: A Candidate for Your House Bubbly on Food Wine Click!
  • Crémant d'Alsace Paired with Summer Fish Menus on Always Ravenous
  • Crab Crêpes Compliment Crémant d'Alsace for Summer #Winophiles on Wine Predator
  • Cheese Hour at the Culinary Cabin with Pierre Sparr Crémant d'Alsace Brut Reserve on Somm's Table
  • Porch Sipper of the Year: Crémant d’Alsace on Keep the Peas
  • Crispy Fishwich + an Organic Cremant d'Alsace from Charles Bauer on Wineivore
  • Try This Traditional French Sparkler For Modern Drinkers on L’Occasion

  • Today we're exploring Old World and New World versions of an aromatic grape that was once all the rage, but isn't so well known in the modern world: Malvasia. While it might masquerade around in different forms and under different names, it's effusive, quite perfumed, and has a lot to say.


    This post contains wines that were provided as samples. No other compensation was received for this post and all opinions are my own. It also contains affiliate links from which I might gain a commission at no cost to you.


    Imagine you’re walking through an orchard. This orchard has not one, but many fruit trees – peaches, apples, pears, and oranges. You’re holding a bouquet of flowers as you walk, and notes of honey and ginger also waft your way as you walk. This is kind of what it’s like to sniff a glass of Malvasia. 

    Well  . . . it depends on the glass of Malvasia. This is one of those ancient grapes that has moved around and changed quite a bit, so it’s hard to generalize. Rather than just one grape, it’s really a family of grapes, but it’s a family that also has a lot of pretenders. According to Ian D’Agata in Native Grape of Italy, in Italy alone, there are eighteen official varieties that have Malvasia in the name. Some of them are genetically related but many aren’t. It appears to be one of those names that got doled out a lot throughout Italy whenever a grape in one spot bore a passing resemblance to a grape in another. Originally, the word is thought to have come from the name of the medieval Greek port Monemvasia, through which dessert wines made from the grape were commonly passed en route to various destinations throughout Europe. (The grape was commonly thought to have come from Greece, but that theory has largely been discredited.) 

    Monevasia was eventually conquered by the Venetians and became an extremely important trading port for the city-state. The Venetians exported so much of the wine that many wine shops, taverns, and street names were named after it. As a result of all of this Malvasia flowing throughout Europe, the wine earned international acclaim and was in extremely high demand. Legend has it that in 1478, George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, was found guilty of treason for plotting against his brother King Edward IV of England, and when given the option of how to die, chose to be drowned in a butt of Malmsey (Malvasia) wine. The scene is captured in Shakespeare’s  Richard III.


    Carnival of venice 2020 onderkokturk 01
    Image borrowed from Wikipedia.com

    Despite Malvasia’s renown as a wine worth dying for in the 1400s, it’s not at all surprising if you haven’t heard about it in the modern world. Maybe it took a cue from its association with Venice, because this is a grape that has a tendency to masquerade. In addition to Italy, you’ll find it grown all around Europe, but you might not recognize the name as it has tons of different synonyms. On top of that, it’s often a part of white blends in regions where you might not see the name at all like in white versions of Chianti in Tuscany and in white Rioja in Spain. It’s also grown in the US. 

    In addition to moving around quite a bit, this grape is also made in many different styles – dry, still, sparkling, and sweet. There are even red versions of the grape –– so basically, all of the styles of wine. It’s used to make vin santo in Tuscany and passito wines in many places in southern Italy and its islands. In Portugal, it is used in making white Port, as well as Maderia, where it goes by the name of Malmsey (a personal favorite). 

    Today we’re going to take a closer look at still examples from Collio in northern Italy and from near Santa Barbara in California, alongside a couple of different pairings. Both of today’s bottles today were very expressive and aromatic in a way that jumped right out of the glass. They’re the type of wines that tend to lend themselves to pairing well with very flavorful foods, so I tried them with dishes from a couple of different cuisines and flavor palates. 

    While the wines had a lot in common with each other, there were also the differences you’d expect to find in an Old World/New World comparison. To be more specific, the Italian version showed more minerality and the bottle from California showed riper fruit notes. I should say, even riper fruit notes, because the Italian version certain wasn’t lacking on this point. 


    The Food 

    Over the course of two evenings, we paired our bottles with a couple of very different dishes. On our first evening, I made a Spicy Jerk Potato & Pineapple Hash with Shrimp. I adapted the recipe from one I found on the BBC’s Good Food website below. I absolutely love the combo of big flavors here, but it's a type of dish that’s often tricky to pair with wine thanks both to the heat of the jerk seasoning as well as the sweetness of the pineapples. I thought Malvasia might be up to the task. 


    On the second evening, I made Wenchang Chicken and Rice (aka Hainanese Chicken and Rice). I think of this dish from the island province of Hainan, China, as a comforting meal, which could be viewed as more simple, since it involves poaching a chicken in a ginger-infused broth, both of which are then served over rice. It’s certainly a bit more subtle in comparison to the Jerk Hash. That said, it does still have a mix of flavors including ginger, white pepper, and chiles. This version from Saveur also gets an extra vibrant pop from a sauce made with calamansi. I thought the ginger and citrus sauce would resonate well with Malvasia. 

    Wenchang Chicken might not be the most photogenic of dishes (or maybe it's just my rendition), but it is super soothing and soul-satisfying.

    Both wines worked solidly well with both dishes, but each wine won a round of competition, as we’ll see below.

    If you’re looking for additional pairing suggestions for Malvasia, a round-up of recommendations from around the internet includes: Cajun Dishes such as etouffee and gumbo, moo shoo pork, pad Thai, salads with fruits like a Waldorf salad, fruit kabobs or fruit-based salsas, seafood dishes, Gorgonzola pizza with walnuts and pears, seasoned vegetable dishes, and a chicken sandwich with gravy. Basically, much like Riesling or Gewurztraminer, this is a good contender whenever you have foods that have intense seasonings or if you have a dish with widely different elements to bridge together.


    The Wines

    Both of today’s wineries can be found in the Slow Wine Guide. If you’re interested in wines that are conscientiously made, Slow Wine is a great resource when looking for wineries from Italy and the US “that respect and reflect their local terroir and practice sustainable methods that benefit the environment.” 

    For more on the Slow Food & Wine movement check out this post from Gwendolyn of Wine Predator.

    Venica & Venica  Pètris Malvasia Collio 2018


    ABV: 13.5% | Average Price: $21 (this bottle was gifted to me by a friend)

    This wine comes from the region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy, right up against the Slovenian border. This region is very hilly (collio is derived from the Italian word colli meaning “hills”) and it experiences maritime influences as well since the Adriatic coast lies just 25 kilometers away. (For more on Friuli, see this post.)  It’s also only about an hour and a half from Venice, so it’s not surprising that this grape would have taken up residence here. The version of Malvasia we find here is Malvasia Istriana (which is truly genetically part of the family), and it’s been at home here since at least the 13th century. Malvasia is part of the traditional white blend of the region, along with Ribolla Gialla * and Friulano. 

    The Venica family has had their winery in the region since 1930. They’ve made sustainability a key focus of their operation and have laid out many of their practices on their website, including the methods to prevent wasting water and recycling raw materials. You can also find a full sustainability report on their website. 

    Tasting Notes: On the nose, there was a bouquet of flowers with honeysuckle and orange blossoms, which were joined by fruit notes of baked pears and apples, apricots, melons, and orange zest. On the palate, these notes were joined by beeswax, ginger, and creamsicle, with traces of minerality. The wine was textured, with medium acidity (which is typical for the grape), but balanced with a dry finish. 

    Additional details on the 2019 vintage of this wine can be found here. 

    Pairings: We particularly loved this wine with the Wenchang Chicken and Rice. The notes of ginger and citrus were echoed in the wine. Both the food and the wine had an interesting blend of delicacy with a pop of vibrant flavors and they matched each other beautifully on this level.

    The wine wasn’t a bad match with Jerk Hash, but the intensity of those flavors did drown out the flavors of the wine a bit.



    Lepiane Malvasia Bianca Happy Canyon 2019


    ABV: 13.9% | Price: $28 (sample)

    I spoke with winemaker Alison Thomas and wrote the Lepiane entry for the 2021 Slow Wine Guide. It’s a testament both to her wines and to Coravin that the bottle that I tasted from for that guide was still showing beautifully when I finally actually opened it earlier this week! (It was stored in a wine fridge, which I’m sure helped preserve it, but it is also the reason that the wine was out of mind for so long.) I really dig her wines and previously shared her Barbera in this post. I think she does a really great job with Italian varieties in California. Her wines have a way of both showing the typicity of the grape and their California-ness at the same time. 

    Alison’s career has blended a love of science and an appreciation of enjoying time at the table that she picked up from her parents. She found a way to bring it all together in wine and in the process she spent quite a bit of time working in amazing wineries in both Italy and California before starting her own project. 

    The grapes for this wine come from the Happy Canyon sub-region of the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County. Happy Canyon is a tiny and young AVA, having achieved its status in 2009. It’s in the eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley and it has rolling hills with a rocky mix of mineral-rich soils that tend to give concentrated wines. It also gets hot here – 100°F days are not unusual in the summer. Thankfully, those temperatures plummet by 40 to 50 degrees at night, and mornings can be foggy. That wide diurnal shift in temperature is a magic combo that leads to ripe grapes with lots of flavor, but with enough acidity to keep them from tasting flabby. This wine is a perfect example – it tastes like sunshine on a spring day but has a bit of tanginess to show it still has a spring in its step. 

    Tasting Notes: There are lots of flowers on the nose – jasmine, orange blossoms, and vanilla – along with tropical fruits like pineapple and mango, as well melons, apples, and peaches. That heady mix of fruit continued on the palate. This is an opulent wine with lots of texture, and while the acid’s medium, there’s enough to keep everything bright and lifted. All of that ripe fruit gives the perception of a bit of sweetness. 

    Additional details on the wine can be found here. 

    Pairings: We dug this with the Jerk Hash. All of those concentrated fruit flavors were able to stand up nicely to big flavors in the food. Not an easy feat. The wine also provided a refreshing counterpoint to the spice. 

    It also worked well with the Wenchang chicken, however, the intensity of the fruit with all of its tropical notes felt a little less balanced with the lighter flavors in that dish. 


     

    *****


    *****

    More Malvasia

    Here are a few more bottles of Malvasia we've had and enjoyed, to keep an eye out for. 

    Paul Lato Boogie Nights Malvasia Bianca Ballard Canyon 2016, Laventura Malvasia Rioja 2014, and Day Wines Mamacita Petillant Naturel Willamette Valley NV includes Malvasia as part of the blend.

    And a pairing for  Rodaro Malvasia Colli Orientali del Friuli Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
    View this post on Instagram

    A post shared by Nicole Ruiz Hudson (@nibblinggypsy)

    And for more posts in which Malvasia makes a cameo, check out:

    • 2 Italian White Wine Blends Born in California
    • Rock'n Wines in Arizona's High Desert: Caduceus Primer Paso with Herby Orange Pork Chops
    • Exploring Castello di Brolio & On-Location Pairings From the Home of Chianti Classico

    *****

    Thes rest of the Italian Food, Wine, Travel (#ItalianFWT) blogging group will be exploring Slow Wines from Italy. Be sure to check out their posts: 

    • Jennifer shares “Slow Wine and Food of Madrevite” on Vino Travels .
    • Deanna delights with "Montenidoli Il Templare White Wine + Wood Fired Pizza" on Wineivore
    • Camilla offers "Buono, Pulito, e Giusto: Lemon-Stuffed Chicken, Preserved Lemons, and an Umbrian Chardonnay" at Culinary Adventures with Camilla.
    • Nicole goes on "Old World/New World Explorations of Malvasia"
    • Wendy does "Spezzatino d'agnello and a G.D. Vajra Albe" for A Day in the Life on the Farm.
    • Terri pairs "Grassfed Meatballs and Caiarossa Toscana" on Our Good Life.
    • On Wine Predator, we argue that "Organic Famiglia Febo Deserves to be in Slow Wine Guide Italy"


    Additional sources used for this post and extra reading:
    • Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours
    • Oz Clarke: Grapes & Wines: A Comprehensive Guide to Varieties and Flavours 
    • Native Wine Grapes of Italy by Ian D'Agata
    • The Oxford Companion to Wine via JancisRobinson.com
    • Wine-searcher.com
    • Winetraveler.com: Malvasia Grape Varieties & Wine Profile
    • Heart of the Desert: Malvasia Bianca – A Wine with Ancient Origins
    • Vinepair.com: Getting to Know Happy Canyon, One of Southern California’s Tiniest AVAs
    • thedrinksbusiness.com: On this day 1478…death by Malmsey




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