So many bottles so little time!

On New Year’s Eve – while very much in a New Year’s Eve state of mind – I found myself verbally stumbling to describe to a friend what I find most exciting about wine right now. Honestly, I’m not sure what words I actually managed to get out, but let’s pretend I said something like this: I absolutely love that it’s possible to have an adventure via good bottles from all over the world. Better yet, those adventures can easily be had for between $15-$25.

Godforsaken Grapes: A Slightly Tipsy Journey through the World of Strange, Obscure, and Underappreciated Wine by Jason Wilson describes exactly what I’d wanted to convey. It’s is an entire book dedicated to adventures through the wine glass and the literal adventures the love of wine can lead to. 




The book takes its name from a tirade by Robert Parker where he refers to a lot of lesser known varieties as “godforsaken grapes.” However, as Wilson points out, there are currently 1,368 known varieties (and likely way more), but 80% of the world’s wine is made from only 20 grapes. Why limit oneself? I see things very much as he does:

Or perhaps maybe you’re like me, and you’re excited about new experiences and learning new things. Every new grape you’ve never tasted before, after all, offers the chance to taste a new flavor. (pg 21)

That's without even considering the importance of biodiversity on an environmental level. 
 
In the quoted tirades, Parker also goes off on the sommeliers, etc who recommend them as elitists, among other things.  As a regular drinker of these wines, I both laughed and took umbrage at Parker’s description, because one of my personal key reasons for drinking them is affordability. Of course, not every wine in the book falls into that $15-$25 price range, but many of the “Strange, Obscure, and Underappreciated Wine” grapes he describes can be easily found at that pricepoint, and for this very reason, quite a lot of them end up on our wine racks. (More on that in a bit.)

From a reader’s perspective, I personally had such a good time reading this book because I could really relate to Wilson’s journey. Moreover, a lot of the grapes he describes have become very familiar to me. I’ll admit that I took geeky pleasure in the fact that I’ve tried a good majority of the grapes he discusses in the book. However, more than just the glee of reveling in super-nerdom, reading about his explorations of these lesser-known grapes was like reading about friends. Other grapes are more recent acquaintances, and reading about them makes me excited to get to know them better. For others who might not already be in the deep end of the wine geek pool, I think this would still be a fun read that could inspire one to try new wines as it’s also about exploration and travel. 

Of course, most American wine drinkers don’t start their wine journey drinking wines made from grapes like Kékfrankos, Lagrein, or anything with an umlaut. (Per Wilson, we Americans are generally afraid of any grape with an umlaut. People, please don’t let grammar keep you from good wines! 😉)  Like most people in the US, I started with the more common grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Syrah, mostly red in my case at the time, and mostly from California since we were living in LA during our 20’s. Argentina, Chile, and Australia also made it into the mix – but still generally from the grapes we all know. A few family members (my brother-in-law Dave is particular), however, did start to introduce us to wines from Europe and I got a glimpse of the meaning of “terroir.” I started to study wine seriously when we moved to New York and eventually began working in the field, at which point I learned and internalized the classic regions. I was working at Wine Spectator, so I had access to some pretty amazing stuff and got an awesome wine education. In between the classics, I also got to start to get to know some more obscure regions and grapes as well.

I still love all the classics, but once we moved back to California, I no longer had the same access on a regular basis and the price tags on a lot of those renowned regions just don’t work for everyday - at least not on our budget. So, I started to look elsewhere, and now we drink wines from an amazing number of grapes and regions. I know I’m also lucky to have fairly easy exposure to all kinds of wines that would be hard to find elsewhere. The East Bay has an amazing number of wine bars and stores offering up all kinds of interesting wines. I realize it's more difficult in other markets.
 

One of my favorite pictures Greg took on our trip to Porto is of these Rabelo boats that historically shipped the wines up and down the Douro River.

Beautiful views at Achaval Ferrer in Mendoza.

After I passed my CMS Certified exam, I remember commenting to Greg that my world of wine had grown exponentially in the process of studying for it. I don’t think I even realized then how much bigger it would get or where that would take me/us. In the book, Wilson takes the reader through some of the amazing places his own wine journey has led him to, including impossibly high Swiss mountainside vineyards, all through Germany and Austria, Portugal, and Slovenia. I haven’t hit anywhere near the number of places Wilson has gone, but already wine has taken me to many areas I would not have otherwise thought to go to: the Golan Heights, Cahors, a remote town in Catalunya, Mendoza, and many countryside hilltops in various parts of Italy . . .  Ok, the Italian countryside would have been a draw anyways, but wine gave us the chance to speak to people we never would’ve had a chance to meet.

I went to several amazing wineries in the Golan Heights including Château Golan, where winemaker Uri Hetz makes extremely compelling wines.

Actually, before I ever got into studying and working in wine, we’d gone tasting in the Mexico, the Okanagan Valley in Canada, and the Finger Lakes, as well as some better known regions. My very first “tasting” experience, as far as I can recall, was actually in Missouri when I was a kid. We were on a family day trip when a tornado was spotted approaching the town we were visiting. Everyone was told to take shelter in a large, old winery in town where we all waited for the tornado to pass by.  I was pretty literally protected by obscure wine  . . . and my brother and I got thimble-sized pours to try. It’s quite possible that I owed Bacchus a debt from very early on, and so he chose to slowly pull me into his service.

Tasting room at Clos de l'Obac in Priorat.

I think these more obscure grapes and regions make my life better on a much more day-to-day level as well though. As I mentioned, these types of wines are often available and wallet-friendly prices, and I think we drink better, more interesting wines on a regular basis thanks to them. These wines are also usually much less expensive on restaurant wine lists as well. 

Fleurie is one of the Crus of Beaujolais, made from the grape Gamay. The wines are super versatile. This one is by  Chanson and enjoyed at The Hidden Vine in San Francsico.

Light to Medium bodied reds like the Fleurie above and this Trousseau by Harrington Wines make a great choice at restaurants because they pair easily with a wide variety of foods, which is useful when everyone is ordering different dishes. This bottle was enjoyed at Mägo, one of our favorite spots in Oakland at the moment.

Right now our everyday wine rack (yes, I have multiple wine racks and they are partly categorized by purpose/occasion) contains bottles of Baga, Kerner, Albariño, Furmint, Ribolla Gialla, Riesling, Counoise, Trousseau, Grüner Veltliner, as well as blends from Slovenia and Lebanon. All kinds of light to medium bodied reds from places like the Loire Valley, Austria, Germany, Beaujolais, and northern Italy are usually up there too, but we tend to go through those fast and we need to stock back up. The majority of these cost me under $20. (Sadly, tariffs could soon change this.) 

All of these bottles from obscure grapes and/or regions were purchased in that $15 - $25 range.

As a bonus, in the process of buying and drinking these wines, my brain gets pushed out of my otherwise insulated American bubble to think about the wider world, including many places that probably wouldn’t have otherwise crossed my mind, connecting me to them for a brief moment. What a gift.

I’d really love to challenge everyone to push a little past their comfort zones and try something new in 2020. This doesn’t have to be a huge leap. I know not everyone wants to jump in the deep end. That’s totally fine. It took me a while to get there as well. But maybe think about trying a grape out of your usual scope – maybe that means grabbing a Grenache or Gamay rather than a Pinot Noir, or an Albariño instead of Sauv Blanc. Or try a grape you already know you like, but from a different region than you’d normally buy it from. You also don’t have to go quite so obscure in terms of location. There are tons of wonderful regions in the US that aren’t as well known either, and I’ve been seeing better and better examples of wine from these “other” US regions.  Even here in California, there are plenty of places to explore, like the Santa Cruz Mountains, Lodi, Lake County, and Santa Barbara, which might be a lesser know, but aren’t all that hard to find and make delicious wine.




Exploring these wines might actually help you save some $$$ too. (Tariffs pending.) Or you might even get inspired to go on your own wine adventures.

Bottle of classic and obscure grapes and regions mixed together at a wine geeky gathering.

I know wine can be intimidating, especially when the grapes are hard to pronounce and/or you’re diving into wines or areas you’re unfamiliar with. Many obscure wines do require a little context or explanation as well. I’m, therefore, going to include some tips. They’re actually pretty useful for finding good wine in general.

Tips For Finding and Exploring Interesting Wines

1.  Set an initial price point of $15 to $25.

If you go too low, it’s more likely you’ll run into mass market bottles with less typicity. (I always say there’s a difference between inexpensive and cheap.) At $15 you can start to find lots of quality bottles especially if you enlist a little help (see #2). It's not that there aren't great bottles under that price point, but the odds get better at around the $15 mark. (Good recs can help bring that price point down a bit as well.)

On the flipside, if you don’t like the bottle, you’re not out tooooo much money. Once you have some comfort with a grape or region, you can increase the price point and treat yourself to the higher-end stuff.

(Again, this suggestion is pending resolution on the looming tariffs.)

2. Find a good wine store/wine bar – they can help guide you to new wines you might like.

Tell them what you typically like to drink, but explain that you’re looking to try something new and give them your price point. They should be able to lead you to some love matches. 

Also, when I say a “good” wine store I mean a store where the staff is knowledgeable and provides helpful service. If a staff-person is snooty, that is not good service. Above all, you should feel comfortable. Once you find a place you like, get to know them. They’ll get to know you as well and will be able to hone in and calibrate their recommendations over time.

I tend towards smaller wine stores, but some larger stores like Costco and Whole Foods often have really solid wine sections with helpful staff as well. This can vary a lot of course, so it’s a question of getting to know the ones in your local area. 

Wine bars are great too of course, because then you try a glass of something new without committing to a bottle. Better yet, look for bars that offer flights where you can try small tastes of lots of things.

3. Go online.

If the wine selection isn’t all that varied in your area, there are lots of great online resources these days. (Provided, of course, that shipping of alcohol is allowed in your state.) A lot of wine stores have online portals and will ship – for example K&L which has a handful of locations in California with lots of wines from all over the world. Wine.com has a solid selection if you're willing to look around a bit and even has a feature where you can speak to a wine consultant to help guide you. There are also solid flash sale sites/apps/email newsletters. I’ve been making a lot of use of Garagiste.com lately – a very informative flash sale newsletter curated by Jon Rimmerman.

4. Pay attention to distributors and importers.

Look on the back of the bottle and you’ll see the name of the importer and/or distributor. After a while, you might notice that a lot of the bottles you gravitate towards are coming from the same ones. A lot of times, these have been curated by a person or team with a point of view. (This is particularly true of smaller and mid-sized companies.) If you start to notice the bottles you buy often are coming from the same importers/distributors, there’s a good chance you line up with their palates. Seek out their wines.

Wilson mentions several good ones in the book, including Terry Theise (who operates through Skurnik) for German and Austrian Wines.

I’m also going to throw a shout-out to Danch & Granger Selections in this realm of more obscure wines. They’re a new company that essentially picked up the mantle when the couple who started Blue Danube (mentioned in the book) retired, and they bring in a lot of wines from Eastern and Central Europe. They're now bringing in the Kékfrankos pictured further up. Eric Danch is also one of the best wine storytellers I’ve ever met, and he makes that gift available online too. His info and tech sheets (both those he wrote for Blue Danube and now for his own company) are just insanely informative. Here’s info for a winery in a monastery in Bosnia – muse on that for a while! The wine is good too.

Useful Books:

• Obviously Godforsaken Grapes for inspiration.
• What to Drink with What You Eat by Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page is a great quick reference guide for how to pair an extensive list of  wines and other beverages. I constantly use this one for inspiration.
• Perfect Pairings and Daring Pairings. The of the two is by Evan Goldstein with recipes by Joyce Goldstein and gives advice and recipes for pairing a lot of the "noble" grapes, along with a few lesser known grapes. Daring Pairing, also by Goldstein falls pretty squarely into godforsaken grape territory, and features recipes written by some of his favorite chefs. 
• Wine Food by Dana Frank and Andrea Slonecker is joyful cookbook that features many beautiful recipes paired predominantly with wines that would fall into this territory.

 

Additional Resources:

• Borderless Wines takes thing to another level by also seeking to creat social impact through sustainable wines from lesser known regions.
• The Seven % Solution yearly events showcase wines made from outlier grapes in California.

 

Posts Related to Godforsaken Grapes:

We're constantly drinking and covering these types of grapes and regions, so a full list would be difficult, however, here are a few posts that might be helpful:

• Thanksgiving Pairing Guide Round-up

• 2 oz Pours: Campsite Dining

I'll be updating this periodically with resources and pairings related to these wines over time, so be sure to check back.

A couple of pairings before departing: 

Grignolino is a lesser known grape from Piedmont, but it's usually more wallet friendly than Nebbiolo, the superstar grape of the region. This one from Agostino Pavia & Figli is paired with risotto.

The rest of the Wine Pairing Weekend blogging group is also exploring Godforsaken Grapes. Thanks so much to Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla for choosing this topic as I really enjoyed the read.

• A North Macedonian Blend: Vranec and Plavec by My Full Wine Glass
• An Unlikely Match: A Thai Favorite + A Qvevri-Aged Wine from the Republic of Georgia by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
• Cesanese, Schioppettino and More Interesting Wine to Try by Cooking Chat
• Falanghina and Lagrein from California? Of course! by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
• Godforsaken Grapes: The Book and Thoughts about Wine by Our Good Life
• Godforsaken Grapes: The Book, The Wine, The Pairing by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Pairing Blaufrankisch from Austria with Dark Soya MarinatedChicken Legs by Chinese Food and Wine Pairings
• Pair Petit Manseng with Asian Food by Asian Test Kitchen
• Pairing the Unpairable: Traditional Turkish Manti and Yogurt with Öküzgözü Rosé by The Quirky Cork
• Saperavi is Super with Khachapuri by Dracaena Wines
• Southwest France: A Pool of Grape Diversity by L'Occasion
• Tasting & Pairing Tannat - #WinePW Exploration of Godforsaken Grapes by The Corkscrew Concierge
• To Try in 2020: Paso Whites– Unexpected Grapes In anUnexpected Region by Wine Predator
• The Forgotten Grapes of Calabria: Gaglioppo of Ceraudo with Salsiccia by Vino Travels
• White Port: A Blend of Grape Varieties Unknown to Many by Grape Experiences

 This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.

View from Elvio Cogno in Barolo. Photo by Greg Hudson

Hope your 2020 is off to an amazing start!

I’m kicking off the new DECADE by getting back to basics with a cheat sheet of Italian wine essentials. This is not as simple a task as it would appear. Italian wine can be super daunting! With 20 different regions and an astonishing number of grapes (in Native Grapes of Italy Ian D’Agata covers 500 different native varieties, and that isn't close to an exhaustive list), it can be really difficult to know how to begin to get a handle on the wines. That said, the wines are so intertwined with the amazing cuisine and are so captivating that it is well worth the effort.

Let’s see if we can break down the essentials into bite-sized pieces. Consider this your CliffsNotes for Italian wine basics.

Map courtesy of WineFolly.com

LABELING

Naming

Let’s start with the naming of wines in Italy, because even this can be maddening. Wines can be named by the region, the grape, or a combination of both. For the most part, there’s no easy way to parse this out other than just diving in and getting to know them. However, if you see a preposition like di, d’, or della (of or from), things get a little easier as this is usually a combination of the grape and place. For example, Barbera d’ Alba is made of the grape Barbera, coming from the commune of Alba in Piedmont.

The Quality Pyramid(s)

If you’ve ever looked at an Italian wine bottle, you might’ve noticed a little flag of paper wrapped around the capsule with letters like “DOCG” – these are indicative of the quality tier the wine falls into under the Italy’s appellation system. These indicators also will appear somewhere on the labels.

There are four basic tiers:

•    DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) is the top of the Italian wine pyramid. To achieve DOCG status, wines must comply with a very strict set of rules overseeing everything from the grape varieties, production area, grape ripeness/alcohol levels, permitted yields, winemaking procedures, and aging requirements.  These wines are also subject to inspections and official tastings to ensure that they meet the standards of the specific region. 

•    DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) is the next tier down and covers the grand majority of the traditional Italian wine styles. There are also specific sets of regulations overseeing the production of these wines, although they tend to be less strict than those overseeing DOCG wines. That said, DOC’s that show a consistent quality track record can be promoted to DOCG status.  

•    IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica): This classification was added in 1992 as a way to give winemakers some flexibility and room for experimentation. Before then, there was really no way to indicate wines that were of good quality, but fell outside of DOC/DOCG rules. So if you were a winemaker who wanted to play with grapes other than those sanctioned by the region, there was really nowhere on the quality ladder to put the resulting wines. The IGT designation focuses on the region rather than specifics of grapes or winemaking styles. 

•    VdT (Vino da Tavola)/ Vino: This is the most basic level of the Italian wine pyramid. Vino da Tavola translates to “table wine.” Prior to the creation of the IGT category, all the quality experimental/non-traditional wines that fell outside the DOC/DOCG rules fell into this camp. Nowadays, it has been renamed as Vino and it might appear on a label as Vino d’Italia. These tend to be inexpensive and can be a blend of different grapes, regions, and even vintages. These wines will not be labeled with a region or a vintage.


Knowing these tiers can be a very useful tool when picking out a wine. It’s not to say that every DOCG wine will be better than every DOC wine, etc. There are plenty of exceptions. However, if you’re staring at two bottles at a wine store and you know nothing else about either of them, but one is DOC and the other is DOCG, it’s a fair bet that the DOCG wine will be of higher quality because it has been held to stricter standards. 

Aging Tiers and Other Terms

Beyond the overall quality pyramid, different regions might have their own quality pyramids in addition to this, as well as additional terminology. A lot of times these terms will center largely around aging requirements, alcohol levels, and/or classical boundaries. For example, Chianti has the following tiers/classifications, all of which are DOCG :

• Chianti: This is a DOCG, but it covers 38,000 acres of vineyards, which is quite a big area with multiple subzones. 
• Chianti Classico: By comparison, the Classico zone is made up only 17,800 acres of vineyards and essentially follows the original boundaries for the region, which were expanded over time. (Soave/Soave Classico, and Prosecco/Prosecco Superiore DOCG present similar situations.) The wines also require a one-year minimum period of aging before they can be released. 
• Chianti Classico Riserva: These wines are made within the Classico zone, but as a "Riserva," they require aging for two years in barrel, plus an additional three months in bottle.
• Chianti Classico Gran Selezione: Wine must be aged for at least 30 months in oak barrels. This category was created to signify the highest quality standards, and wines must be made from all estate fruit as well. Additionally, Gran Selezione wines might not be made every year. This is a fairly new designation introduced in 2014.

Another term you might see on a bottle that isn't represented here is "Superiore," which can have different meanings depending on the region. In all cases, however, the wine must meet stricter standards to use the term, be it higher alcohol/grape ripeness, more aging, or vineyards from better locations. For more on Italian wine label terminology, see this useful guide on Wine-Searcher.com.

Now that we know the basic quality tiers and terms,  let’s take a look at some of Italy’s regions.

KEY REGIONS

The areas included here were chosen because of either their importance in fame and reputation, or in terms of production. There are so many wonderful regions in Italy worthy of exploration and I’d certainly encourage you to branch out.

 

Tuscany

Tuscan landscape view taken in Montalcino. Photo by Nicole Ruiz Hudson.

Since we’ve already been talking about Chianti, let’s start with Tuscany where it is located. Tuscany is also quite probably Italy’s most famous wine region, thanks to its beautiful rolling landscape and sunny weather. It’s easy to see why it’s so celebrated. Seriously, you see so many romantic pictures and paintings of the region that they can start to seem cliche. Then you go and you see that they weren’t exaggerating one tiny bit. It’s just that pretty.

Located in central Italy, the area generally enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with warmer, temperate coastal areas, and cooler temperatures in hilly, central areas with increased diurnal variations.

Star Grape: Sangiovese

Key Areas: Most of Tuscany’s most famous appellations – Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – have Sangiovese in the leading role. Each of these has their own local variation or clone, but they’re all Sangio. (Sangiovese is also the most planted grape in Italy overall.)

Other Important Players: Vernaccia and Vermentino for white wines. You’ll also find a good amount of Chardonnay. Canaiolo and Colorino are other local red grapes allowed in Chianti in small amounts.

Also Notable: Super Tuscans. The unofficial term for Tuscan wines made from international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. These wines account for the main reason the IGT category was created. They originally fell under the VdT category, but started commanding hefty sums of money and lots of critical acclaim, making the quality pyramid look rather strange.  

Posts & Pairings for Tuscan Wines:
Cooking to the Wine: Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile and Spicy Salami Tomato Pasta
Cooking to the Wine: Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico with Italian Meatloaf  and Pasta Pomodoro 
Exploring Castello di Brolio & On Location Pairings From the Home of Chianti Classico
Cooking to the Wine: Barone Ricasoli Brolio-Bettino Chianti Classico & an Italian Twist on Pulled Pork

View from Brancaia winery. Photo by Nicole Ruiz Hudson

Piedmont

Vineyards at Manzone in Monforte d'Alba in Piedmont. Photo by Greg Hudson.

Located in northwestern Italy, Piedmont is Tuscany’s rival in fame, and it actually has more DOCG’s than any other region in the country. Piedmont, or Piemonte, means “foot of the mountains,” and indeed it’s a hilly region located at the foot of the Western Alps on the border with France, and the Apennine Mountains are to the southeast. The region has a continental climate and it’s colder here than in most of the rest of Italy. It can also get quite a bit of fog, particularly in the valleys. (The pic at the top was also taken in Piedmont and shows some of the fog.) That said, the mountains protect the region from getting a lot of rain.

Star Grape: Nebbiolo

Key Areas: Barolo and Barbaresco are the region’s most famous appellations and are both made from Nebbiolo. (Find less pricey versions from Roero and  under the regional appellation Langhe, among others.)

Other Important Players: I love Nebbiolo, but Piedmont has a wealth of other excellent grapes, most of which are better priced for everyday. Other reds include Barbera (particularly from Asti and Alba), Dolcetto (from Dogliani and Alba), and lesser known but delicious grapes like Freisa. There are excellent white wines are wells from aromatic Arneis and Cortese which is found in the wines of Gavi. This is also the home of the lightly sweet and sparkling Moscato d’Asti.



Posts & Pairings for Piemontese Wines:
Cooking to the Wine: Fontanafredda Barolo and Braised Short Ribs with Mushrooms
Classically Contratto: Beautiful Wines from Italy's Oldest Sparkling Wine House
Contratto Millesimato and Vitello Tonnato Two Ways
8 & $20: Braised Chicken Thighs in Mushroom Sauce

 

Sicily

Passopisciaro Vineyards in Contrada Guardiola, on Mt. Etna, Sicily. Photo courtesy of Sarah H. Bray.

Sicily is Italy’s most southern region and its largest island – actually it’s the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It has the climate to match with lots of sunshine and moderate rainfall. The quality of the region’s wine suffered for a while, but they’ve made concerted efforts to right the ship and now the region is a darling of sommeliers. The region is also 4th in terms of production volume.

Principal/Star Grapes: Catarratto (white) and Nero d’Avola (red) are the first and second most planted grape varieties.

Key Areas: Etna DOC covers Mount Etna – the slopes of this volcano makes for very interesting vineyard area. Currently, the island’s only DOCG is Cerasuolo di Vittoria which is located in the southeastern section of the island and is made of Nero d’Avola and Frappato.

Other Important Players: This is another region with many very interesting grape varieties. Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio form a small part of the overall production, but are key grapes on Mount Etna. Other key white grapes include Grillo and Inzolia. In addition to dry still wines, Marsala, the island’s famous fortified wine, is also made of these two grapes along with Cataratto, of which there is a lot on the island at varying levels of quality. (A total of ten different grapes are permitted for Marsala.) Of course, you’ll also find the international varieties here, as in most places.



Posts & Pairings Related to Sicily:
Cooking to the Wine: Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Sicilia Rosso with Creamy Eggplant and Tomato Zoodles
A Passion for Sicily with Passopisciaro: An Interview with Sarah H. Bray, Part 1
A Passion for Sicily with Passopisciaro: An Interview with Sarah H. Bray, Part 2
8 & $20: Creamy Chicken and Vegetable Crepes
8 & $20: Chicken and Spinach Lasagna Rolls

Veneto

Landscape from iLatium Morini (producers of Valpolicella, Amarone, and Soave.) in Veneto, outside Verona. Photo by Greg Hudson

Moving back up the boot again to the northeastern quadrant. It produces the most wine in terms of volume than any other Italian wine region. It is also the home of several, completely distinct styles of wine. Here is a quick run-through of a few:

Valpolicella and Amarone: The grapes for the region of Valpolicella are Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, and Oseleta, and typically make for easy-drinking wines. Amarone della Valpolicella uses the same grapes, but makes a very different style. The grapes for Amarone are dried a bit to concentrate the flavors. The wines are dry, but have raisin-like flavors which is an interesting juxtaposition. (Dessert wines are also made using grapes dried in this way, but are called Recioto della Valpolicella.) The area is within an easy 30 minute drive from Verona.

Soave: Crisp white wines based on the grape Garganega. Look for those labeled Classico for more serious versions produced from the original zone that is made up of mostly hillside vineyards. In addition to dry wines, Soave can also be made in Recioto styles.

Prosecco: Bubbly wines made from the semi-aromatic Glera grape, typically via the tank method. Prosecco vineyards begin just outside Venice. The classic heartland of the region, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, is situated in the hills about 30 to 40 minutes from the city.

Other Important Players: There is a ton of Pinot Grigio planted in Veneto, as is the case throughout northeastern Italy. The region of Bardolino, located next to Lake Garda, makes wines from the same grapes as Valpolicella. Veneto shares the area of Lugana with Lombardy, and while the area is not well known, it makes wonderful wines from the grape Turbiana (aka Verdicchio, Trebbiano di Lugana). Pinot Nero, Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Cab Franc, and Carmenere are all here too.

Posts & Pairings Related to Veneto:
Cooking to the Wine: Inama Soave Classico with Brown Butter and Herb Crayfish Rolls
The Sweet Side of ILatium Morini: Sette Dame Recioto di Soave Classico with an Old-Fashioned Strawberry Cake
Cooking to the Wine: Sorelle Bronca Extra-Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG with Poached Chicken with Pears and Gorgonzola
Three Nights of Prosecco Holiday Fun: Carbonara, Sabering, Friends, with a Side of Pear Endive Spears
One Afternoon in Lugana at Podere Selva Capuzza
8 & $20: Chicken Paillard Salad With a Fresh White
8 & $20: Buffalo Chicken Meatball Sliders
8 & $20: Arctic Char With Orange-Scented Fennel and Onions
8 & $20: Lamb Chops with Mint Gremolata and Minty Mashed Peas
8 & $20: Chicken Breasts with Pesto 'Zoodles'
8 & $20: Shrimp Wontons and a Bright White
Entertaing with 8 & $20 with a Side of Travel Memories: Lamb Chops with Mint Gremolata and Minty Mashed Peas

Puglia

Puglia (sometimes pronounced Apulia by English speakers) is a long, skinny region that make up the heel of the boot. The warm, Mediterranean climate and terroir of the region make it ideal for grape-growing, and it is extremely productive – in 2018, it came in second after Veneto in terms of production by volume. The majority of the wine produced here is still cheap bulk wine, but there have also been moves to improve quality in recent years.

Principal Grapes and Key Areas: It’s hard to pick just one or two star grapes for this region, since it’s a long and varied, making a ton of wine, but that also is still differentiating itself. Sangiovese is the region’s most planted grape. In the northern part of the region you’ll also see a lot of other grapes typical of central Italy like Montepulciano (not to be confused with the town of Montepulciano in Tuscany). Primitivo (aka Zinfandel in the US) is another important grape in the region and is the star in the region’s first DOCG, Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale. There is also dry Primitivo di Manduria, but it remains a DOC. Negroamaro is the star of many of the region’s southern DOC’s, such as Salice Salentino. There is also quite a bit of Nero di Troia. In terms of white grapes, there’s a lot of high-yielding Trebbiano, which contributes to the bulk wine production. Verdeca is a rare white grape now found almost exclusively in central Puglia in the towns of Taranto and Bari. The international grapes are all here as well, and have also often been a big part of the bulk wine production. The area also makes quite a bit of Vermouth.

Emilia-Romagna

This is another fertile wine region but in north-central Italy, surrounded by Tuscany, Liguria, Lombardy, and Veneto and the Adriatic Sea to the east. It’s a large region and in 2018, it was the third most prolific region after Veneto and Puglia.

Star Grape: Lambrusco (actually, a group of grapes)

Key Areas: There are several DOC’s in the region focusing on Lambrusco and representing different styles: Salamino di Santa Croce, di Sorbara, Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Reggiano, and Modena which encompasses the whole province of Modena.

Other Important Players: Malvasia is an important white grape for the region and is often also used to make lightly sparkling wine. Trebbiano, Barbera, Bonarda, Sangiovese, and the internationals are all here as well.

Pairings & Posts Related to Emilia-Romagna:
Cooking to the Wine: Pezzuoli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro with Antipasto Pizza


I will be updating this from time to time with wine recs, pairing ideas, and additional post links as I cover more of these regions in depth.



The rest of the Italian Food, Wine, Travel (#ItalianFWT) is also getting back to Italian wine basics and thinking about how they'd introduce friends to Italian wines. Check out their posts here:

• Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares “Sips and Eats Around the Boot: A Primer to Italian Wines and Pairings”
• Lynn at Savor the Harvest shares “Introducing the Diversity of Italian Wine”
• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “Ringing in the New Year with Loved Ones and Prosecco“
• Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings shares “Sharing Lugana DOC – Winter Whites With Friends #ItalianFWT #luganawines“
• Marcia at Joy of Wine shares “The World of Italian Wine: Where Do I Begin?“
• Gwen at Wine Predator shares “4 To Try in 2020: Italy’s Franciacorta, Fruili, Chianti, Mt. Etna“
• Cindy at Grape Experiences shares “Why the Wines and Food of Custoza DOC are Some of Veneto’s Many Pleasures”
• Susannah at Avvinare shares “Three Noble Red Grapes that Help to Navigate the Italian Peninsula”
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass shares “What exactly IS this Italian grape?”
• Jen at Vino Travels shares “The Beginnings to Understanding Italian Wine”
• Kevin at Snarky Wine shares “Cutting Your Teeth on Italian Wines”
• Katarina at Grapevine Adventures shares “3 Grapes to Get a Beginner’s Taste of Italian Wine”
• Jeff at Food Wine Click! shares “Italian Wine 101 – Start Your Journey Here”

Additional resources used for this post and extra reading:
The Oxford Companion to Wine via JancisRobinson.com
Wine-Searcher.com  
Italian Wine Central: Top Ten Most Planted Grape Varieties in Italy
Italian Wine Central: Wine Production by Region The Culture Trip: 5 Italian Wine Regions You Should Know
La Gazzetta Italiana: A Tour of Italy's Top Wine Regions
Food Republic: The Five Italian Wine Grapes You Need to Know  
Wine Folly: The Best Italian Red Wines for Beginners  and The Five Best Italian Wines Beginners Must Try



This post contains affiliate links, including the following Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.

Happy New Year!

Let’s end the year on a slightly fancy note!

In anticipation for this evening’s festivities, I thought I’d share one more quick post with some pairing ideas with a little bit of flare, perfect for a celebratory evening like New Year’s Eve . . . or an afternoon when you’re just feeling like kicking things up a notch. We actually had this spread one afternoon at the Culinary Cabin over the summer.


As I’ve shared in previous posts, weekends at our friends’ Culinary Cabin are dedicated to extravagant culinary feasts with our buds. One summer afternoon, Drew, who always takes hosting to another level, decided to put together a gorgeous platter of crudo for a happy hour spread.


One might be intimidated to make crudo at home, but it’s actually pretty easy. (I admit I haven’t made crudo myself, but have made poke, for which all the same general rules apply.) Here are a few basic guidelines:

1. The key rule is to get really fresh fish from a reputable fishmonger. The fish should look firm, fresh, and smell like the sea – briny, not fishy. It’s a good idea to tell the fishmonger that you’re planning to use the fish for a raw preparation so they can best guide you toward the freshest product. You can also ask them to clean it for you.
2. Your knife should be SUPER sharp so that it can make really clean slices. It should go through that fish like butter. 
3. The fish should be dry and really cold to encourage easy slicing. 
4. Slice the fish at a 45° angle, aiming to make the pieces about ¼” pieces. Rinse you knife in really cold water in between slices. 
5. Have fun with toppings, but no need to go crazy. You want to let the fish shine.
   

If you’re still a bit intimidated by the idea of making crudo, here are two good guides from Bon Appetit and Food & Wine. As well, here is a basic blueprint recipe from NYT Cooking to get you started.



Drew made two different versions.The first was sea bass which he topped with lemon juice, red onion, cilantro, and jalapeño slices. A little lemon zest, a bit of olive oil, salt and pepper finished things off.

The second preparation was for tuna. He topped that off with a bourbon barrel-aged soy sauce (a good aged soy sauce of your choice will be just fine), cilantro stems, green onion, lime zest, and sriracha. The olive oil, salt, and pepper finished things off here as well. 



A crudo top tip from Drew: For fish which is discolored by acid—which is most clear-fleshed fish—put the acid on the plate under the fish. You still get all the flavor and presentation is that much better!


Such beautiful creations deserved an equally beautiful wine to accompany them. We popped open a bottle of Delamotte Brut Rosé Champagne NV (SRP: $92.99)  to have alongside the delicious crudo.

This bottle was a media sample. As always, all opinions are my own, and no other compensation was received.

Founded in 1760 by François Delamotte, Delamotte is the 5th oldest houses in Champagne. It has changed hands many times in its more than 250 years. From the Delamotte family, it sold to the Lanson family (who later started the house bearing their name). In 1988, Delamotte joined forces with the celebrated champagne house Salon under the umbrella of parent company, Laurent-Perrier. Today, Delamotte and Salon are still sister companies, sharing headquarters in Le Mesnil under the direction of Didier Depond. On years where the Salon is not produced, many of their contracted grapes are used in some of Delamotte’s wines.

All of Delamotte’s wines are made in stainless steel only and go through malolactic fermentation. The rosé of Pinot Noir for the Delamotte Brut Rosé is made by the traditional saignée method, which is actually unusual in Champagne. The blend for the wine is 80% Pinot Noir, sourced from Grand Cru vineyards of Bouzy, Ambonnay, and Tours-sur-Marne, on the southeast slopes of the Montagne de Reims The remaining 20% of the wine is Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur Oger.

The wine showed notes of tart strawberries – just a hint underipe, with a little green on the tops – cherry and tangy citrus. The was a little smokiness to hit, finishing with a flinty minerality.

The wine was good with the sea bass crudo, but it shined brightest alongside the tuna. It resonated well with the Asian-inspired flavors of that preparation, and more of the cherry and berry notes came to the forefront. It felt like a seamless match. 


If you’re feeling super extra, check out this recipe for Drew’s 4-Layer Caviar Dip  for another decadent treat.

Here are a few more previous bubbly posts to cap off my month of sparklers:
Bubbles, Books, & a Bloomy Rind: Moët & Chandon Impérial Brut with a Good Read and a Cheese Board
Champalou Vouvray Brut and a Very Lazy Cheese Night
Around the World Pét-Nat Party!
Wine, Cheese, and Wine & Cheese Ice Cream from Humphry Slocombe, Domaine Carneros, and Laura Chenel
Cooking to the Wine: Sorelle Bronca Extra-Dry Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG with Poached Chicken with Pears and Gorgonzola
The Ladies of Laurent-Perrier and an Anniversary Toast
Champagne Dames, Lamiable Extra Brut, and a Hot Cheesy Mess
Crémants for Going Out and Staying In (Psst! They're Your New All-Purpose Bubblies!)
Classically Contratto: Beautiful Wines from Italy's Oldest Sparkling Wine House  
5 Champagne Toasts
The Big 10, Champagne, Burgundy, and #OTBN
Three Nights of Prosecco Holiday Fun: Carbonara, Sabering, Friends, with a Side of Pear Endive Spears
8 & 20: Salmon and Goat Cheese Gougères 
 8 & 20: Buffalo Chicken Meatball Sliders
 8 & 20: Saffron-Tomato Chicken Croquetas

I hope you have a happy and safe start to 2020!


Details on the winery and winemaking taken from the Delamotte section of Vineyard Brand's website as well as brand sheets, and  But First, Champagne by David White.


This post contains affiliate links, including the following Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.