Somm's Table

Perfect pairings from the other side of the equation.

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I generally try to keep politics out of this blog, but I must admit that I was quite euphoric on January 20, 2021. Not just euphoric, but also relieved like a huge weight had begun to lift. As a woman of color living in Oakland, I was also feeling a measure of pride that a woman of color born here had stepped into the vice president’s office. I know many of my friends felt the same way, regardless of their ethnicity. My all-lady tasting group decided to have a zoom party to celebrate the occasion.

We all decided that we’d each make or order in food that celebrated Kamala Harris’ background in some way, and we’d toast with wines that honored her in some way as well. (We also all wore RBG T-shirts I’d bought this small group for the holidays.) I decided I’d make an Indian curry and paired it with a really fresh sparkling wine made by a young black winemaker here in the Bay Area. Funny enough, 3 of the 4 of us on the Zoom call had wines from Bodkin Wines. Bubbles are their calling card, although they do make other styles, and I think most of us really felt that this occasion called for sparklers. (My friend Maura went in a different direction, opting instead for a wine from Rock Wall Wine Company in Alameda since Kamala Harris is a member of their wine club.)

Maura and Adriana joined me in sharing pairings in Three Takes On Theopolis Symphony. Our friend Marlene, who was on this call but was away during this photo, sells Bodkin's wines and arranged for Chris to virtually join our tasting group, although I wasn't able to join that particular meeting.

It was a really joyful celebration, even if we couldn’t get together in person.


BODKIN WINES


The first time I recall one of Bodkin’s wines really getting my attention was at a GuildSomm “Backroads of California” Masterclass in 2017. I don’t think it was the first time I’d had one of their wines, because I know we carried them periodically while I worked at Bay Grape, but at this particular tasting it really stood out to me. Most of the wines we tasted were good, as they’d been carefully selected and even included several favorites, but Bodkin’s Cuvee Agincourt Brut Blanc de Sauvignon Blanc ($25) stood out to me for its verve and its freshness. It was clean, crisp, and fun. The fact that their wines are very reasonably priced has allowed me to continue to enjoy them from time to time.

Bodkin was founded in 2011 by Iowa native Chris Christensen. Per their website, “His passion for aromatic wines and winemaking led him to create America’s first Sauvignon Blanc with bubbles.” Although Chris continues as the winemaker, in 2013 he was joined by Andrew Chambers as “Co-head Honcho,” and now they both live and work in Sonoma County.


Image borrowed from Bodkin's website.

Chris actually joined my tasting group virtually one evening, as last year we occasionally organized zoom tastings with a few winemakers. I sadly had to miss that particular event, which is really too bad as not only do I really enjoys his wines, but I’m also very drawn to the nerdy Shakespeare references all over his website. Specifically, the allusions are to Henry V and “bodkin” refers to the type of arrowhead used by Henry V’s forces in the epic Battle of Agincourt (also the cuvée name of that sparkling Sauv Blanc I mentioned). The company’s motto is “We few, we happy few,” which is a quote from the play’s famous St. Crispin's Day speech, and the red cross that’s the company’s logo is also a reference to the cross Henry’s men wore. I’ll turn down the nerdiness now, but it’s just to say that this all appeals to my Shakspeare-loving, former-English-major heart and I hope to get another chance to meet him.

It’s also clear that he’s a guy with grit and a sense of humor. Chris was featured in San Fransico Chronicle’s 2017 Winemakers to Watch, and the article shares this quote:

I love sparkling wine and I love Sauvignon Blanc, and if that makes me less of a man, so be it,” he laughs. “I grew up biracial in Iowa in the ’80s. I’m secure in who I am.

THE WINE & PAIRING

On Inauguration Day I opened a bottle of Bodkin’s The Fearless Blanc de Blanc ($25). I already had it on hand and it seemed to fit the occasion perfectly. This wine is a blend of  75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Gris, 5% Chennin Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Blanc, with the majority of the grapes coming from Suisun Valley in Solano County, located between San Francisco and Sacramento. The dosage is kept to just  2.5g/L.

To be completely honest, I'm not sure if I purchased this bottle or if I got it from my friend Marlene, who reps these wines. Both have definitely happened, but I suspect this particular wine came from Marlene. I even see Bodkin wines offered fairly regularly offered on Wine.com, at least in CA.

On the nose, the wine showed notes of gold and green apples, lemon, and white flowers. These were joined on the palate by lime and grapefruit notes – a citrus cocktail. It was very refreshing and generally steely, but there was a little roundness in the mid-palate to round things out.

The wine worked very well with my Inauguration Day curry. My dish was basically a blend of two recipes I found on Food & Wine and Indian Healthy Recipes, along with a little improvisation. It was made up of cauliflower, tomatoes, coconut milk and savory spices. I also added shredded chicken, because I happened to have some on hand and welcomed the protein, but it’s definitely not needed if you prefer to go meat-less.


The wine counter balanced the flavors in the food in a nice way, and helped cleanse the palate after each complex, savory bite. 


Curry, Cauliflower
dinner
Indian
Servings: 6 to 8
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson
Cauliflower Curry

Cauliflower Curry

Prep Time: 10 MinCooking Time: 35 MinTotal Time: 45 Min
This is a very easy curry that comes together quickly. Don’t stress if you don’t have all of these spices. Feel free to omit things or get playful with what you have available., as that’s basically what I've done here. I added shredded chicken because I had some on hand, but it definitely doesn't need it, so feel free to leave it out to go meatless. Similarly, feel free to add potatoes, sweet potatoes, or other vegetables, as well as herbs like cilantro. Serve over rice.

Ingredients

  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 medium head cauliflower (about 1 pound), cut into large florets (about 4 cups)
  • 1 large onion, diced
  • 1 tablespoon ground coriander
  • ½ teaspoon turmeric
  • 1 teaspoon garam masala
  • ¼ teaspoon dried red-pepper flakes
  • ¼ teaspoon asafoetida powder (optional)
  • 1 14.5-oz can diced tomatoes
  • 1 13.5-oz can coconut milk
  • 1 teaspoon salt, or as needed
  • 1 to 2 cups shredded chicken (optional)
  • 1 cup frozen petite peas
  • Cooking oil, as needed
  • (Optional additions: potatoes, cilantro)

Instructions

  1. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat, then once hot, add the cumin seeds to the dry pan. Toast the seeds until starting to turn fragrant and lightly browned, about 1 minute, shaking the pan often to stir the seeds. Once toasted, move the seeds to a mortar, then roughly crush with a pestle.
  2. In a large deep frying pan, heat the oil over moderate heat. Add the cauliflower and cook, stirring frequently, until the cauliflower starts to soften and brown lightly, about 5 minutes. Transfer the cauliflower temporarily out of the pan. (Alternatively, you can start the cauliflower by roasting it in the oven at 425°F.)
  3. If needed, add more oil to the pan, then add the onions, and sweat until starting to soften and beginning to turn translucent. Add the spices to the pan and stir. Once everything is beginning to turn fragrant, return the cauliflower to the pan, then add the tomatoes, the coconut milk, and the salt and stir well to combine. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, then stir in the shredded chicken (if using) and cook, lightly covered, until everything is tender, about 15 minutes. Add the peas and continue cooking, uncovered, until the peas are tender, about 2 to 5 minutes longer.
  4. Serve the curry over cooked basmati rice.
https://www.sommstable.com/2021/02/an-inauguration-day-toast-with-bodkin-and-cauliflower-curry.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator


 

*****

The rest of the Wine Pairing Weekend Bloggers (#WinePW) are joining me this Black History Month in Celebrating BIPOC Winemakers & Winery Owners. (You can read my invitation post for this event here.) If you read this post early enough, join us on Twitter tomorrow morning, Saturday, February 13th, at 8 am PT/ 11 am ET and join our discussion by following #WinePW. Be sure to check out the rest of their posts:

  • Truffle Chip-Crusted Goat Cheese Truffles + McBride Sisters Brut Rosé from Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • The Many Talents of John Legend on A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • Family and Wine Go Together for These Black-owned Businesses from My Full Wine Glass
  • Black-Eyed Peas with Collard Greens and Maison Noir OPP by Cooking Chat
  • Where’s Linus Sauvignon Blanc with a Shaved Vegetable Salad, Crostini, and Scallops on Cauliflower Rice Risotto on Crushed Grape Chronicles 
  • A Taste of Theopolis Vineyards from ENOFYLZ
  • Pairing Crab Legs with Carmen Stevens’ Sauvignon Blanc by Our Good Life
  • Meet Cheramie Law: Black, Female, and Founder of Texas’ Cheramie Wine from The Corkscrew Concierge
  • Sipping Wines from the McBride Sisters Black Girl Magic Line by Avvinare
  • Camins 2 Dreams: When a Chumash Winemaker Meets a Spanish One And Sparks Fly from Gwendolyn Alley, Wine Predator
  • And here on Somm’s Table,  I’m sharing An Inauguration Day Toast with Bodkin The Fearless Blanc de Blanc and Cauliflower Curry

 

 


This post contains affiliate links, including these Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.

 

LVE by John Legend Sparkling Rose with Lao food from Champa Garden.

2020 was something. It certainly dealt quite a few blows. I think it also forced us to confront some harsh realities that were overdue. In the midst of the discussions on diversity and racism that have come out of the Black Lives Matter Movement, and discussions on sexism that have come out of the #MeToo movement in the last few years, the wine industry (and the hospitality industry in general) has had to confront the fact that it’s severely deficient in supporting minority populations and women.

Charles Woodson's Intercept Red Blend with A+ Burger.

For my own part, upon reflection, I realized that I can make more of an effort to search out wines from BIPOC winemakers both to enjoy at home and to blog about. I certainly make the effort to look for wines from obscure regions and grapes, and I also actively seek out wines from women winemakers and wineries with women in other key positions, but while I’m Latina myself, I’m confronting that I haven’t done a great job of telling the stories of other BIPOC people in the wine industry. I can do better.

In this spirit, particularly as it’s Black History Month, I’ve asked my fellow Wine Pairing Weekend Bloggers (#WinePW) to join me in Celebrating BIPOC Winemakers & Winery Owners. This week, we’ll be posting stories and pairings with wines from underrepresented groups. We’ll also be gathering on Twitter on Saturday, February 13th at 8 am PT/ 11 am ET to share our finds. Feel free to join us by following #WinePW. Here are the stories we can look forward to:

  • Truffle Chip-Crusted Goat Cheese Truffles + McBride Sisters Brut Rosé from Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • The Many Talents of John Legend on A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • Family and Wine Go Together for These Black-owned Businesses from My Full Wine Glass
  • Black-Eyed Peas with Collard Greens and Maison Noir OPP by Cooking Chat
  • Where’s Linus Sauvignon Blanc with a Shaved Vegetable Salad, Crostini, and Scallops on Cauliflower Rice Risotto on Crushed Grape Chronicles 
  • A Taste of Theopolis Vineyards from ENOFYLZ
  • Pairing Crab Legs with Carmen Stevens’ Sauvignon Blanc by Our Good Life
  • Meet Cheramie Law: Black, Female, and Founder of Texas’ Cheramie Wine from The Corkscrew Concierge
  • Sipping Wines from the McBride Sisters Black Girl Magic Line by Avvinare
  • Camins 2 Dreams: When a Chumash Winemaker Meets a Spanish One And Sparks Fly from Gwendolyn Alley, Wine Predator
  • And here on Somm’s Table,  I’ll be sharing An Inauguration Day Toast with Bodkin The Fearless Blanc de Blanc and Cauliflower Curry


I genuinely can’t wait to read these posts!  In the meantime, I’ll also point you in the direction of Three Takes On Theopolis Symphony, which I shared last summer. Throughout this post, I've also been sharing some of the wines I’ve tried this past year from black winemakers/winery owners.

Theopolis Vineyards Symphony 2017


If you’re interested to discover more of these wines yourself, but you’re not sure how to find them, here are a few articles that have compiled helpful lists on the subject:

  • We’re Drinking a Lot More Wine at Home These Days—Here’s 11 BIPOC-Owned Wine Brands To Support While You’re at It from Well & Good
  • A Global Guide to Black-Owned Wine Labels from Wine Enthusiast
  • 23 Black-Owned Wineries Worth Supporting Right Now on Newsweek
  • Shop Your Next Bottle From These Black-Owned Wine Companies on Refinery 29
  • Black-Owned Wine Brands To Try Out, According To Wine Experts on Huffpost 


There are also more wine stores stepping up to feature these wines, you can also find quite a few on Wine.com – I purchased several here from the site. It's also good to ask, as this shows wine buyers that these wines are in demand and that there's interest.

Bodkin Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc with Ceviche. I'll be featuring another of their wines in my next post.


If you're interested to read more perspectives on this topic and why it's important, here are a few more articles for background:

  • Diversity and Inclusion Efforts Are Key to The American Wine Industry’s Future on VinePair
  • A Voice for Black Winemakers on Wine Spectator
  • A Reckoning on Race at the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas on VinePair 

SevenFifty Daily has been sharing a lot of coverage on the topic. Here are a few articles:

  • How Can We Create More Diverse and Inclusive Workplaces? 
  • Cultivating Diversity and Innovation in the Beverage Workplace 
  • Changing the Game to Make Wine More Diverse 
  • Being Black in the White World of Wine 
  • Building a Culture of Inclusion Is Easier Than You Might Think 

 


 

Last year I shared a post entitled Brunello, a Book, and a Boston Butt: Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino with Italian Braised Pork, which tied in a fun read, memories of a stay in beautiful Montalcino, and a yummy pork dish.

I created this braised pork dish last summer, but it definitely feels more like a cold weather dish, so it's a good time to revisit it now.

At the time, I’d intended to write a second post to share more about the wonderful visit Greg and I had at CastelGiocondo in 2018, but as tends to happen to me a lot, time and life got away from me and I’ve never managed to get that second post up until now. Lately, I’ve been trying to share some of these I’ve-been-meaning-to-write-that posts. Revisiting travel memories has also been particularly nice recently while we continue to be grounded, so I’ll take advantage today to share memories of this sunny afternoon in Tuscany spent in the vineyards tasting delicious wines. After all, who wouldn’t want to find themselves sipping wines in a sun-drenched vineyard right now? I’m a little jealous of past me.

Note: Our visit at CastelGiocondo was comped as member of the wine industry. No other compensation was received and all opinions are my own.


Brunello di Montalcino


I invite you to look back at this post for a little more background on the region and city in general, but here are some quick basics on the wine and this DOCG that surrounds the hilltop town of Montalcino.


  • Brunello is one of Tuscany’s most celebrated wines and can command high prices. As is the case throughout much of the region, Sangiovese is the star grape. Brunello must be made from 100% Sangiovese and Sangiovese Grosso is the clone(s) the area is known for.
  • Wines are aged for at least four years, with a minimum of two years in wood, and four months in bottle prior to release. Riserva wines get an extra year in bottle for a total of five, and six months in bottle prior to release. Even with all that aging before release, Brunellos can age for a very long time and might take quite a few years before they hit their peak.
  • These wines tend to be full-bodied with lots of acidity and pronounced tannins. They’re bold and flavorful wines with a mix of red and black fruits (I tend to get lots of sour black cherry notes), espresso, leather, licorice, and there are also often earthy and herbal notes mixed in. I find these wines usually benefit from decanting, so give them time to breathe after opening. I will note though that not everyone agrees on this point. For example, the winemaker at CasteGiocondo, who we'll meet in a moment, prefers to see how the wine evolves in the glass, so he opens the bottles a bit early, but does not decant. These wines are fabulous with rich, meaty dishes and dishes driven by umami flavors like braised meats and savory stews.


CastelGiocondo

CastelGiocondo is a part of the Frescobaldi family of wineries. The estate is located southwest of Montalcino at an altitude of 300 meters. The village of CastelGiocondo overlooks the historic estate of the Frescobaldis in Montalcino, which was built in 1100 as a stronghold to defend the road leading from the sea to Siena. The property was one of the first four to begin producing Brunello di Montalcino in 1800.

We had the chance to tour the winery and vineyards with winemaker Filippo Manni, who was just a delight to get to know and learn from. He was incredibly knowledgeable, but also seemed like the type of person we might be friends with. The grapes are grown using organic methods and they use special crushers that handle the Sangiovese more delicately since this is a wine that can have aggressive tannins. The wines are fermented using native yeasts in stainless steel tanks. They use a variety of different types of oak vessels in different sizes to cater to what they feel the wines need at various stages of their aging.
The winery at CastelGiocondo was quite beautiful.

In the vineyards, Filippo spent quite a bit of time explaining the different types of soils on the property for us, which include clay and sand, which are newer soils and have some marine influences. There is also schist, in particular galestro soils which Tuscany is known for, which are much older, dating back to the Crustaceous Period. They vinify the different plots separately, as wines grown from grapes on the various plots tend to age differently. He explained how some of the different soil types affect the character of Sangiovese.

Clay: Sangio grown on clay tend to be more delicate and aromatic. Most of the wines from the clay plots tend to go into their Rosso di Montalcino which is intended to be brighter and fresher for earlier consumption. Some might also be in the Brunellos for the aromatics.


Marl: Produces wines with fine tannins and beautiful finesse on the nose

Sand: Wines tend to show softer tannins, more cherry notes, and pretty aromatics.

You can see marine fossils in the soil - they're the rounded stones here.

Schist (Galestro): Wines tend to be more structured with more pronounced tannins. They might choose to allow more oxygen to reach these wines (by using a smaller barrel, for example) to help soften the tannins. The galestro soils tend to produce wines with more savory and minerally qualities.


We also spent some time talking about clones. I mentioned that Brunello is known for the Sangiovese Grosso clone, or clones as it’s more likely a group of clones. Sangiovese is an ancient grape, and things get complicated with clones and biotypes when talking about grapes this old. I don’t pretend to fully understand it by any means. They have about 80 clones of Sangiovese in their vineyards, but they predominantly use about 20 of them. The clones are mixed in the vineyard to produce a sturdier crop that is more adaptable overall in their view.

There are some other very cool aspects to visiting the property, even if you don’t intend to geek out about clones and soil types. The winery has an artist residency program sponsoring three artists per year.

There some art exhibits and others pieces displayed around the winery.

The winery also has rooms you can stay in on the gorgeous property and a small spa with views of the hills and their Brunello vineyards.


Wines Sampled


After our vineyard tour, we sat down with Filippo to taste through some of the wines, exploring several different vintages of the Brunellos. That tasting was set up on a terrace with a spectacular view overlooking some of the vineyards.


Campo ai Sassi Rosso di Montalcino 2016 (average price $18):  They think of this wine as a “Brunellino” as it’s also made from Sangiovese, but in a fresher style than the Brunellos, although it also showed elegance and plenty of structure. The grapes for this wine were grown in clay soils.  2016 was a particularly good vintage and should age well, so it’s worth keeping an eye out for this one for a particularly good value.

Tasting Notes: Very bright strawberry and raspberry notes, with aromatic floral notes, as well as hints of herbs like rosemary.


Brunello di Montalcino 2013 (average price $60): Grapes for the Brunello are grown on schist and sandy soils.

Tasting Notes: Strawberry leather, red licorice, and medicinal herbs on the nose. A hint of meatiness and some floral violet notes joined in on the palate. The tannins were less aggressive on this one in comparison to others, and it was approachable and enjoyable. It had a savory, minerally quality which apparently is typical of the area.


Brunello di Montalcino 2010 (average price $65): This was a cool vintage, with a mild summer, and dry September, which translated into a powerful vintage with lots of minerality.

Tasting Notes: Savory herb salt, lavender, fennel, meatiness, black tea, orange rind, and forest floor came out on the nose. On the palate, it was dense with notes of raspberry, sour cherry, and a little tomato sauce. This was still young and felt like it could use more time to unwind.

It gained a fruitier quality when sampled alongside some aged cheese.


Brunello di Montalcino 2007
(average price $55): This was a warm vintage and had a broader, more mouth-filling quality than the intensely structured 2010.

Tasting Notes: The wine’s nose showed deeper, riper fruit notes of plum sauce, as well as some dried fruit notes of dates and prunes, which were balanced by a rhubarb note, as well as notes of spice and black licorice. All these notes continued on the palate but gained a more savory edge. Tannins were firm but smooth.


Ripe al Convento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2012
(average price $116): Grapes for this wine are grown on schist and galestro soils. This was a warm vintage, but the vineyard for this wine has a different aspect than the other Brunellos and gets cooler later in the day

Tasting Notes: On the nose, the wine showed notes of stewed berries, red licorice, and kirsch. On the palate, it also showed notes of sour cherries, hints of spice, pink flowers, lavender, and a pretty herb bouquet. The wine’s tannins had smoothed out, more so than the 2010 Brunello which was older, and it also still showed a lot of verve, along with savory notes that are apparently typical of the schist soils.

We brought home a bottle of the 2013, which we enjoyed with an Italian-style braised pork dish on polenta, which was so cozy and delicious and perfect for this time of year. I’m sure it would make a great match with any of these wines. 


Check out these other posts related to our Italian road trip:


  • Exploring Castello di Brolio & On Location Pairings From the Home of Chianti Classico
  • Cooking to the Wine: Barone Ricasoli Brolio-Bettino Chianti Classico & an Italian Twist on Pulled Pork  
  • Classically Contratto: Beautiful Wines from Italy's Oldest Sparkling Wine House
  • Contratto Millesimato and Vitello Tonnato Two Ways
  • One Afternoon in Lugana at Podere Selva Capuzza 
  • The History of Amarone at Cantina Valpolicella Negrar, and Domìni Veneti Amarone Classico with Decadent, Braised Lamb Shanks    
  • The Sweet Side of ILatium Morini: Sette Dame Recioto di Soave Classico with an Old-Fashioned Strawberry Cake 
  • Cooking to the Wine: Pezzuoli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro with Antipasto Pizza 
  •  Brunello, a Book, and a Boston Butt: Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino with Italian Braised Pork
 
*****

This month the Italian Food Wine Travel blogging group (#ItalianFWT) are looking at  Italian wines paired with braised meats or stews, hosted by Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla. You can read her invitation post here. If you read this early enough, feel free to join on our conversation on 2/6/21 on Twitter at 8 am PT/11 am ET by following #ItalianFWT.
 
Check out the rest of the group's posts here.
  • Braised Beef Short Ribs in Red Wine Sauce +2012 Produttori del Barbaresco by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
  • Braised Brisket with Donnachiara’s Kapemort Aglianico by Vino Travels
  • Braised Pork Ragù over Pasta + Bruna Grimaldi Nebbiolo d'Alba 2017 by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • Chianti Beef Stew by Our Good Life
  • Dolcettto d'Alba: A Food-Friendly Bet for Braised Chicken by My Full Wine Glass
  • Farina Amarone della Valpolicella with Ground Pork in Karela Rings by Chinese Food & Wine Pairings
  • Home Cooking with Sabrina Tedeschi and the Wines of Agricola Tedeschi by Grape Experiences
  • Hunter's Style Chicken and Cantina di Filippo by FoodWineClick!
  • Pasta e Ceci with Chianti Classico from astellina by The Swirling Dervish
  • Pasta with Pork Braised in Red Wine with Tasca d'Almerita Lamuri Nero d'Avola 2018 by A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • The Most Tender Short Ribs You'll Ever Have, Perfectly Paired With Red Wines From Abruzzo by The Wine Chef
  • Warming Up Winter with Braised Oxtail and Casa Bottega Ripasso Superiore by The Quirky Cork
  • What’s the Difference? 3 Organic Montepulciano: Vino Nobile,d’Abruzzo, and Molise Paired with Ragu by Wine Predator




    Additional sources used for this post:
    • Wine-Searcher.com
    • WineFolly.com 



    This post contains affiliate links, including the following Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.

     


     

    I have a growing proverbial stack of posts that I’ve been meaning to write forever – I’m sure this is not an uncommon problem among bloggers. A lot of them are about wine events I went to in the Before Times, and right about now I’m looking back on these bygone days quite longingly. One such event was a wonderful lunch I attended exploring the wines of Bodegas LAN at Bellota Restaurant in SF in November of 2019.  Since we’ve been taking a look at Rioja recently, now seems like the perfect time to take a look back at this lunch too. It was really a lovely way to better get to know the wines.

    LAN’s wines are pretty easy to be found in the US and they have wines at many price points. They have been around since 1972 and they’re a  medium-sized operation with a lot of reach, but they’re conscientious about the environment and how they work, paying close attention to things like water usage, soil erosion, pollution, and they do not use chemical herbicides in their vineyards. Their winemaker María Barua has been a big driving force behind many of their initiatives. We’ve actually explored LAN on this blog before in Cooking to the Wine: Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva with Smoky Seared Octopus, so please take look at that post for a little more info, as well as to grab a very tasty recipe. You can also learn more about their sustainability practices here.

    Now let’s jump right into the lunch and line-up. Even though the wines were tasted a while ago now, many of these age very well, and of course newer vintages are available of the wines that are intended for younger consumption. It’s also a good way to see how the different styles and age classification levels affect the wine. Here’s a infographic from Winefolly.com as a refresher:



    The wines were paired with a really beautiful menu of updated Spanish classics prepared by Bellota, and since both the wines and food were quite classic, the pairings can easily continue to provide inspiration. I really loved the food and absolutely hope to go back in the After Times (fingers crossed). They are currently offering takeout and delivery. 



    Here's what was on the menu:

    • Heirloom Tomato Salad with stone fruits, cucumber, migas, jimmy nardello peppers, six-month aged manchego.
    • Patatas Bravas (always a favorite!) - crisped potatoes, chipotle brava salsa, and smoky aioli.
    • Tortilla - Spanish omelet, swiss chard, green garlic, chorizo, potato, goat feta, pimenton aioli.  
    • A beautiful Paella filled with fall vegetables including wild mushrooms, autumn squash, broccoli di ciccio, sunchokes, chestnuts, pickled red onions, and pomegranate.
    • Chuleton - Wood-grilled, dry-aged Flannery beef, basque tximitxurri, bone-marrow holandesa, and shallot butter.
    • Queso - Three Manchego Flight with quince paste, celery, and grape picos.
    • Churros with dulce de leche and salted chocolate sauce - Yum!


    And here are the wines tasted (click the links for additional details on each wine):



    Santiago Ruiz O Rosal Rías Baixas 2018 (Average price $21) - Round peach and citrus notes, backed up by saline and stones.

    You might be wondering what a Rías Baixas is doing in this line-up. It turns out Bodegas LAN owns this winery in NW Spain as well. 

    This wine made a lovely aperitif and it was excellent with the tomato salad!



    D-12 Rioja 2015 (SRP $18) - Violets, bright black cherry, a touch of tobacco, dill. Easy drinking and juicy with a little grip on the finish.

    D-12 Rioja 2016 (SRP $18) - A little plusher than the 2015, showing notes of raspberry and red plums, a hint of cinnamon. It also shows a little more tannic grip and structure than the 2015.

    Blend: 100% Tempranillo.

    Historically at LAN, wines that stood out as being particularly good after fermentation were assigned to vat number 12. The D-12 is an homage to the legacy and the place. The 2016 is 10th vintage of this wine.

    Both of the D-12’s were really nice with the tortilla dish. They were also solid with the salad, particularly the bright 2015. The 2016 was also nice with the potatoes.


    Viña Lanciano Rioja Reserva 2012 (SRP $25) - Red plums, black cherry, baking spice including cinnamon, black tea, and herbs. Elegant and smooth, with a grip from dusty tannins on the finish.

    Blend: 90% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano, and 2% Mazuelo. Vines come from 30+ year old vines from their Viña Lanciano estate vineyard.


    This is their original flagship wine. It’s always a reserva and made with the intention of being respectful of the traditional regional aromas associated with the wines. I really enjoyed this with the potatoes, including the lightly spicy sauce. 




    Edicíon Limitada Rioja 2013 (SRP $43) – Classic nose with savory tertiary notes, cherries, berries, and plums. Tobacco on the palate, the fruit still shows freshness despite the age.

    Blend: 82% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, and 8% Graciano. 2013 was a  difficult vintage, but still a very nice wine.

    Edicíon Limitada Rioja 2016
    (SRP $43) - Ripper fruit notes, a mix of red and black fruits, in comparison to the 2013, with hints of dusty earth and baking spices in the background. Smooth and elegant.

    Blend: 87% Tempranillo, 9% Mazuelo, and 4% Graciano. An easier vintage than the 2013, and it comes out in the ripeness of the grapes.
     

     

    The two Edicíon Limitadas were particularly good with the paella. The 2013 got brighter in the pairing, and the richness of the 2016 was perhaps even better.


    Xtrème Organic Rioja Crianza 2014
    (SRP $18) - Chocolate on the nose, with light moist tobacco and cedar. Black cherries, raspberries, and plums. Silky with nice acidity, and dusty tannins. Tastes like it could easily age longer.

    Xtrème Organic Rioja Crianza 2015
    (SRP $18) - Exotic notes of musk on the nose, sandlewood, dark plums, black raspberries. It was plush with an uncurrent of brightness.

    Blend: 100% Tempranillo

    The Xtrème Organic line was spearheaded by María Barua, and it shows her and the winery’s commitment to the land and a more sustainable future. These are the first two vintages of the line. The grapes come from a special parcel on the Viña Lanciano Estate.

    The wines sang with the steak, in particular the 2015. Sooooo good!


    It’s been so nice to reminisce about these beautiful wines and this delicious lunch. If we ever make it back to Rioja in the After Times, LAN will definitely be on my visiting list.

    And for one more pairing and LAN wine exploration, check out Chuck-it-all-in-there Paella paired with their Culmen Reserva.

    The churros weren't paired, but they were good, so we'll use them to end on a sweet note.



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    Somm's Table 2017