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Perfect pairings from the other side of the equation.

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Côtes du Rhônes are super versatile and tend to be quite affordable, making them great everyday wine staples. We're exploring various different styles and colors and some of their many pairing possibilities.

This post contains wines provided as media samples. As always, all opinions are my own and no other compensation was received.

Côtes du Rhône wines are staple house wines around here. I do not hide that if forced to choose, the Rhône is my favorite French wine region for reds. Combine that with the fact that most tend to be pretty affordable, easy-going, and food-friendly, and you get the perfect recipe for a weeknight go-to on my wine rack. They also tend to be crowd-pleasers, so they’re an easy choice when I need to please a wide set of palates including my own. 

We’ve explored the Côtes du Rhône in-depth before, in All the Colors of Côtes du Rhône with Famille Perrin, so I invite you to take a look at that post which also includes a longer cheat sheet, but I’ll summarize some of the basics of the region here.



5 Fact Côtes du Rhône Cheat Sheet

  • The AOC/AOP covers the entire Rhône Valley. This includes both the northern and southern sections, encompassing over 98,000 acres as of 2021. That said, most CdR comes from the Southern Rhône. 
  • Côtes du Rhône is one of France’s oldest and largest winemaking regions. The Greeks and the Romans originally planted vines here in approximately 125 BC. Côtes du Rhône means “the hillsides of the Rhône [River]” and it is the entry-level appellation for the Rhône as a whole. It produces over 40 million gallons of wine. That’s a lot of wine, but there are lots of good values to be found if you look for quality-conscious producers. 
  • CdR’s come in Red, White, and Rosé. The overwhelming amount of wine produced is red as over 95% of the region’s vineyards are planted with red grapes, which of course can be used for rosé as well, but you will find white wines too. 
  • It’s all about the blends. While single-varietal bottlings are allowed (we’ll see one example today), blends are the norm, and producers 21 permitted grape varieties to choose from. 
    • Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre  (aka GSM) are the star players for the reds, with Grenache usually making up the base of the blend, as it is the most planted grape in Southern Rhône. Cinsault and Carignan also make frequent appearances. 
    • Marsanne, Roussane, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc are common players among the whites. 
  • There are levels. Côtes du Rhône is the entry point and the base of the region’s quality pyramid, but this tier is further subdivided into a couple of levels. (Above this are the region’s named crus.)  Restrictions and regulations get tighter as you move up the pyramid.
    • The Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC was added in for villages deemed to be producing wines of consistently higher quality. For the reds, Grenache must make up at least  50% of the blend, with 20% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. A maximum of 20% of other authorized varieties is permitted. The rosés follow the same percentages with the added stipulation that a blend can use only up to 20% of white varieties.
    • Next up are the named Côtes du Rhône Villages. These communes get to attach their name on the label. Currently, there are 22, but more are occasionally added, and sometimes a village will graduate to cru level. 

This infographic further summarizes the levels and details.


In this post we'll range around many of the different styles, looking at all of the colors, and the various tiers, including four of the named villages. 

Pairing Côtes du Rhône Wines

I personally find the wines to be super versatile to pair since, regardless of the color, there tends to be a nice balance between savory notes and ripe fruit notes, so they can work with many different styles of cuisines. The whites have a ripeness and intensity of aromatics that allow them to even work with slightly sweet dishes and tricky to pair Asian cuisines that use many a variety of flavors, while still remaining dry. (A good option if you like those cuisines, but don’t want to go with an off-dry option.) Generally speaking, I find the rosés to have a little more body than those from the entry-level in neighboring Provence, so they work a little better with things like chicken and pork on average. For their part, the reds can range from medium-bodied to full-bodied, but on average the tannins aren’t super aggressive so they don’t overpower lighter meats, but they’re full enough to work with heavier meats as well. If you’re not sure where to go, the old pairing adage “what grows together, goes together” definitely applies here, so Mediterranean flavors are always a safe bet.

Here we’ll see them paired against a variety of styles of dishes including some everyday favorites. While I haven’t included any full recipes in this post, there are several non-recipes included in the mix, as well as a leftover makeover idea.

The Wines

Ogier Artesis Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2018 with Seared Scallops with Browned Butter, Roasted Butternut Squash, and Sautéed Kale 



Blend: 35% Grenache Blanc, 20% Clairette, 20% Roussanne, 15% Viognier, 10% Bourboulenc (Note: Different versions of the tech sheet had slightly different blends/percentages.) 
SRP: $17 (sample) | ABV: 13% | Farming Practices: Unspecified/Conventional

The Ogier name goes all the way back to 800 A.D. when “Ogier the Dane” fought with Charlemagne’s army in the Basque Country, and decided to settle in southeastern France’s Massif Central region. Fast forward a few centuries to 1859, and we meet Antoine Ogier, a descendent of Ogier the Dane, who decides to purchase a cooperage and established himself as a wine producer in the nearby Rhône Valley.

In over 160 years, the company has expanded its holdings considerably, most of which are in the Southern Rhône. The winery itself is located in the center of the village in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and they produce wines from CdP, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Lirac. They also make a few bottlings from parcels within Crozes-Hermitage and Côte Rôtie in the Northern Rhône.

About the Wine: The wine is named for three Artesian wells found on the property where the winery was established. Grapes are gently pressed and then undergo fermentation at cool temperatures to preserve the aromatics, as well as to prevent malolactic fermentation. The wine then rests on its lees in concrete vats to gain body and richness.  
Soil: Galets on sand, clay, and limestone.
Find additional information here and here. 

Tasting Notes: The wine had an expressive nose showing notes of peaches, gold apples, Meyer lemon cream, as well as lots of flowers including honeysuckle and peach blossoms. These all come back on the palate, but are a little more tart, with a little grapefruit pith mixed in, as well as touches of herbs, stones, and rounded, beeswax texture on the mid-palate.

The Pairing and How it Worked: It was a beautiful match with seared scallops in brown butter with butternut squash seasoned with sage, sautéed kale, and pepitas sprinkled on top. The cubes of squash were tossed salt, pepper, olive oil, and sage and roasted in the oven at 425°F for 30-35 minutes, or until nicely caramelized. I seared the scallops on both sides in a mixture of olive oil and butter. Once ready, I transferred them out of the pan, then sauteéd the kale quickly in the browned butter mixture. Once everything was plated together, I sprinkled a little Parmesan and pepitas on top for a little extra flair and crunch. 

The wine struck a nice balance between speaking to the richness and silky texture of the scallops in browned butter, while also having enough brightness to remain lively. It also had enough fruit to stand up to the light sweetness of the butternut squash, while the light herbal notes integrated with the sage and kale. 

Additional Pairings: The winery recommends this wine as an aperitif or with accompanies seafood dishes (scallops, shrimps, prawns, fresh line fish) with herbs (sage, tarragon) or roasted chicken. (I hadn’t read those recs in advance, but we were clearly on the same page.) 


Domaine Chamfort La Pause Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet Rosé 2019 with Seared Salmon and Sheet-pan Mediterranean Vegetables and Parmesean Cream


Blend: 50% Grenache / 50% Syrah | SRP: $19 (sample)  | ABV: 14.1% 
Farming Practices: Organic, Certified as of 2021

Vasco Perdigao acquired the Domain Chamfort estate in 2010 and now works with the help of his partner  Sonia Léorat. He spent several years making wine in the northern areas of Côtes du Rhône, before deciding to start his own project in the southern Rhône Valley. 

About the Wine: His Sablet vineyard is nestled into the base of the Dentelles de Montmirail on the northern edge of the famed Gigondas zone, overlooking the village of Sablet. The vineyards are planted on slightly sloping terraces with south-southwest exposure. The nearby mountains have a cooling influence on temperatures that brings freshness and balance to the grapes. This rosé is made via the saignée method.
Average Vine Age: 20 - 50 years  |  Soil: Limestone, sand, and galets.
Find additional information here. 

Tasting Notes: Aromas of tangerine, peach, white cherry, with a slight touch of cream, welcomed us on the palate. Similar fruit notes continued on the palate and were tangy, bright, showing a little stony minerality, a pinch of white pepper, and rounded body and texture. 

The Pairing and How it Worked: The wine worked beautifully with salmon, roasted zucchini, cherry tomatoes, and peppers on garlic cream. The salmon was simply seared to crisp the skin. The vegetables were also simply prepared roasted with salt, pepper, olive oil, and thyme in the oven at 425°F for about 20-25 minutes until starting to brown. All of the veggies can be combined on a sheet pan together, save the cherry tomatoes which can be added during the last five minutes of cooking. I served it all with a Parmesan-garlic cream spread to add flavor and textural contrast. You can also swap in aioli for a similar feel. 

The wine and the food matched each other beautifully. A hint of tang in the wine was perfect with the tomatoes. The textures also mirrored each other seamlessly, and the wine seemed to grow more rounded on the palate in the pairing.

Additional Pairings: The winery recommends this wine with a variety of foods including grilled sausages with mashed potatoes with salted butter, grilled chicken curry with roasted pineapple, skewered grilled meats, and vegetables. 


Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône 2019 with a Mediterreanean Mezze Spread


Blend: 100% Grenache | SRP: $44 (sample) | ABV: 14% 
Farming Practices: Certified Biodynamic

Domaine Gramenon was established by Michèle Aubèry-Laurent, a former nurse, and her vigneron husband Philippe in the north-easternmost areas of the Southern Rhône, bottling their first vintage in 1990. Philippe was tragically killed in a car accident in 1999, but  Michèle carried on the business, embracing her new role with fervor, while also raising their three children. She now works the domaine’s twenty-six hectares with her son Maxime François. They employ organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyards and follow non-interventionist principles in their winemaking. 

About the Wine:  The grapes for this wine come old-vine Grenache vine from three plots in Gramenon, in the commune of Montbrison-sur-Le. Two parcels are located on limestone plateaus and around 1000 feet, and the third plot is on a sandy south-facing slope. Grapes are hand-harvested, sorted, then partially destemmed, and macerated in concrete tanks for fifteen days. Slow, ambient fermentation is followed by twelve months in a combination of barrels and demi-muids and bottled without fining or filtration.
Average Vine Age: 50 - 70 years | Soil: Sandstone, limestone, sand, and shells.
Find additional information here and here.

Tasting Notes: A mixture of peppery notes and raspberry sauce aromas greeted me on the nose, with lots of garrigue and a few wildflowers. On the palate, the wine started out with ripe, rich fruit notes balanced by savory herbs flavors, finishing with pencil lead and stones. This was one of my favorites in the bunch, although Greg liked it less on its own. (He liked it with the food.)

The Pairing and How it Worked: We this wine with kibbeh and mezze spread. I froze kibbeh after I made them for Indulging My Lebanese Cravings with Chateau Musar Jeune Rouge,  and it was so nice to have them on hand. I had hummus with smoked paprika and baked sourdough pita bread following this recipe. The fresh pita was soooo tasty! I also bought tabouli to go with it all. 

Another really tasty match. The allspice in the kibbeh brought out attractive spice notes in the wine, and vice versa. The hummus ended up with a little more smoked paprika than intended because the sprinkler top fell off as I was trying to sprinkle it on top of the hummus. Luckily, it was not an overpowering amount, and once stirred in it really worked, and the wine also really loved the smoky paprika flavor.


Domaine Fond Croze Les Vieux Ceps de Raymond Côtes du Rhône Villages Vaison-la-Romaine 2015 with Pork, Veggie, and Grain Bowls


Blend: 100% Carignan | Average price: $11 (Purchased via Garagiste.com) | Farming Practices: Certified Organic 

Domaine Fond Croze’s history dates back to the day after World War I ended in 1918 when upon returning from battle, Charles Long decided to settle with his family in Saint Roman de Malegarde, a small village in the northern part of Vaucluse, near the more famous villages of Cairanne and Rasteau. Charles became very dedicated to public life in the village and he served as mayor from 1983 to 2010. He also helped to create the Syndicat des Vignerons de Saint Roman de Malegarde.

His goal when he acquired his first land was to provide for his family’s needs, and he decided to cultivate vines, melons, peaches, and apricots. His son Raymon eventually joined him, and they began to expand the holdings with the majority dedicated to vines and olive trees. The Domaine itself was established in 1997 and they now hold over 80 hectares over various villages, which have been farmed organically since beginning conversion in 2009. Raymond’s sons Daniel and Bruno went on to join the family business, with Daniel focusing on managing the vineyards, and Bruno dedicating himself to oenology and working on the cuvées. Daniel’s son Guillaume now represents the 4th generation of the family to join the company.

About the Wine:  Mixing it up here, as this wine is a bit of an outlier from the rest in this post as it is made of old-vine Carignan rather than the more typical GSM grapes of the Southern Rhône. (I’m not sure how this Carignan gets around the CdR Village level  requirements to include the GSMs in the mix.) The grapes come from the northern slopes of a vineyard in Saint-Roman-De-Malegarde in the Vaucluse department. The cooler northern exposure helps to maintain freshness in the wines. Grapes are sorted and destemmed, then vinified in concrete tanks. The wine is also aged in concrete tanks for one year.
Soils: Stony clay-limestone.
Find additional information here. 

Tasting Notes: Notes of warm raspberry jam, plum sauce, dried figs, and berry fruit leather hit on the nose, the dried notes showing a bit of the wine’s age. Fruits were brighter on the palate and joined by notes of red licorice, spice, pepper, and pleasantly bitter herbs on the finish. 

The Pairing and How it Worked: When I have lots of bits and pieces leftover in the fridge from various meals, I find one of the easiest ways to use them up is to combine them in a grain or pasta bowl. In this case, I had pork, carrots, and some greens leftover from making this pork tenderloin dish, along with some roasted potatoes, so I cooked up some couscous and mixed them all together, and seasoned it with za’atar to add a different flavor. Adding nuts, dried fruits, cheese, or herbs are also all easy ways to add textures and flavor contrasts. 

This wine worked quite well with all of it, and the dried and ripe fruit flavors tied in nicely with the sweeter veggies and the spice mix.


Domaine Les Aphillanthes Les Galetss Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu 2019 with Prosciutto Pizza

Blend: 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 20% Mourvèdre | SRP: $24 (sample) |  ABV: 14.5%
Farming Practices: Certified Biodynamic

Daniel Boulle represents the fourth generation to work his family’s vines. He and his wife Hélène Boulle took over Domaine Les Aphillanthes in 1987 back when it was a modest 10 hectares, and have since increased their holdings to 30 hectares. They keep about 80% of their finest grapes and sell the rest. They also tend to limit themselves to about 130,000 bottles every year and keep their yields to about 25-30hl/ha, significantly less than the locally allowed 45hl/ha. 

They initially decided to convert to organic and biodynamic agriculture while looking for natural methods to help treat their son’s eczema. They went on to receive both of their organic and biodynamic certifications in 2007, from Ecocert and Biodivin respectively.

About the Wine: Plan de Dieu has soils of red clay that can sometimes be packed to a depth of 10 meters, mixed with smooth cobblestones throughout. Vines tend to growly sparsely in this terrain and fruit yields tend to be low. The resulting wines are dense, concentrated, and deeply colored. Grapes for this wine were hand-picked and sorted, then underwent a long, slow maceration and fermentation (~25 days). The wine was then matured in concrete vats for 18 months, followed by one year in bottle before release.
Average Vine Age: 45 years | Soil: Galets over clay and limestone
Find additional information here and here.

Tasting Notes: Aromas of raspberry jam, red plum, black cherry, and pinch white pepper hit on the nose. The same notes continued on the palate, with the pepper note growing more pronounced, with stony notes and a pinch of mixed herbs joining in the mix. The wine fruit notes were generous at the front of the palate, with a rounded body and mouthfeel that lead to a spicy finish.   

The Pairing and How it Worked: The wine worked easily with prosciutto pizza and got more supple, rounded, silky with the food. I’ve been making a lot of sourdough pizza since COVID started, and I’m happy to say it’s gotten better and better. (I’m planning a BIG pizza pairing post one of these days.) Prosciutto’s mild flavor makes it a fairly easy meat topping to pair, and I recommend adding it to the pizza once it comes out of the oven. It warms up quickly on the pizza.

Additional Pairings: The winery also recommends this wine as a pairing for Beef Bourguignon and other rich, slow-cooked stews.


Lavau Domaine La Decelle Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas 2018 with a Mushroom & Caramelized Onion Burger


Blend: 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah | SRP: $ 14  | ABV: 13.5%  
Farming Practices: Unspecified/Conventional 

The Lavau family’s winemaking history dates back to the 19th century, starting in Saint-Émilion in Bordeaux, continuing in Tunisia, then back to France to the Rhône Valley when Jean-Guy Lavau and his wife Anne-Marie returned to France in the 1960s and took charge of a small winemaking cellar in Sablet that would eventually become Maison Lavau in 1965. The winery continues in family hands under Frédéric and Benoît Lavau. Lavau now owns 180 hectares of vineyards around the Rhône valley and works with over 350 winegrowers. 

About the Wine:  Benoît and Frédéric Lavau fell in love with Domaine la Décelle, an 82-hectare estate in Valréas, and purchased it in 2010. Valréas is distinctive for the position of its north and west-facing hillsides. Because the slopes do not experience the full force of the sun, combined with the area’s predominantly clay soils which are able to retain water and maintain cooler temperatures, vines are less vulnerable to drought than other parts of the region. Cold air blowing down from the Alpine foothills further cools the vines. Domaine la Décelle is located at the heart of the region in the Enclave des Papes, at an altitude just over 1,000 feet above sea level. The grapes undergo a long 30-day period of maceration and fermentation, with traditional rack and returns and frequent pump-overs. The wine is then aged for six months in second-use French oak barrels before bottling.
Soil: Clay and limestone.
Find additional information here. 

Tasting Notes: On the nose, the wine showed notes of raspberry, cherry, and thyme. These were joined on the palate by flavors of red plums, more herbs, white pepper, stones, a little anise, and violet. This was an easy-drinking wine with ripe, silky fruit notes and dusty tannins. 

The Pairing and How it Worked: I’ve been wanting a burger since putting together All About Burger Pairings a couple of weeks ago, so I decided to indulge the craving for this pairing while visiting my inlaws in San Diego. I used a combination of lamb and beef for these burgers and included some cooked onions in the mix. I also made a caramelized onion and mushroom topping to enjoy with the burgers by cooking onions in olive oil with salt and pepper until they’d started to caramelize, then adding sliced mushrooms to the pan to sauté as the onion developed deeper color. The pan was alternately deglazed with sherry vinegar, red wine, and soy sauce. We didn’t have buns on hand, so I melted cheddar cheese on English muffins to use as buns instead. (I often like the sourdough flavor of English muffins with burgers anyways.) 

These were deliciously messy burgers – be ready with lots of napkins! – but whenever I did manage to have a clean hand long enough to grab my glass of wine, it made for a very good pairing. The combination of meaty, smoky, and umami flavors all melded easily with the flavors in the wine, and the wine had plenty of fruit to stand up to the light sweetness of the caramelized onions.

Additional Pairings: The winery also recommends this wine with roast duck, pot roasts, or grilled pork loin.


*****

Check out these previous posts and recipes related to the Rhône:

  • All the Colors of Côtes du Rhône with Famille Perrin 
  • A Simple Spring Lamb Feast with Maison Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage 
  • Cooking to the Wine: Les Vins de Vienne Gigondas with Gratinéed Shepherd's Pie  
  • Cooking to the Wine: Clos de Trias Ventoux with Bacon-Cheddar-Teriyaki Burgers  
  • 5 Nights of Rasteau  
  • 8 & $20: Braised Lamb Shanks and Lentil Stew  
  • 8 & $20: Ham Steaks with Peach-Tomato Succotash
  • A Wine & Cheese Night #MadeinFrance
  • French Wine 101 Cheat Sheet 

*****

The rest of the French Winophiles (#Winophiles) blogging group is exploring Côtes du Rhône this month. Be sure to check out the rest of their posts for more pairing ideas:

  • Jeff from Food Wine Click! thinks we should Embrace the Base of the Côtes du Rhône Pyramid.
  • Cindy of Grape Experiences suggests we Sip Wine from the Côtes-du-Rhône... then Visit the Rhône Valley.
  • Cathie of Side Wino Hustle says OMGigondas!
  • Mel of Wining with Mel introduces us to The Wonderful World of Chapoutier in Côtes du Rhône.
  • Terri of Our Good Life tells you What You Need to Know about Côtes du Rhône Wines.
  • Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla is Assembling an End of Summer Cheeseboard with Domaine Chamfort Sablet La Pause Côtes du Rhône Villages 2019.
  • Robin of Crushed Grapes Chronicles talks about Côtes du Rhône & Côtes du Rhône Villages – a plethora of flavors to pair with!
  • David of Cooking Chat shares Grilled Sirloin Steak and Côtes du Rhône.
  • Jen of Vino Travels takes us on A Journey Through the Cotes du Rhone.
  • Jane of Always Ravenous shares Cote du Rhone Wines: Tasting and Pairing.
  • Katrina of The Corkscrew Concierge explains Why You Should be Drinking White Rhône Wines.
  • Linda of My Full Wine Glass introduces us to Red, White and Pink-The Colors of Côtes du Rhône Wine.
  • Pinny of Chinese Food and Wine Pairings shares Côtes du Rhône and Perfect Fried Rice.
  • Jill of L'Occasion is Feeling Satisfied with Côtes du Rhône.
  • Susannah of Avvinare shares A Fresh Look at the Côtes du Rhône.
  • Liz of What's in That Bottle? declares Côtes du Rhône Offers Fancy, French & Affordalicious Wines.
  • Gwendolyn of Wine Predator...Gwendolyn Alley considers White, Red, Rosé? Côtes du Rhône Wines Paired with Squash Soufflé, Instant Pot Cassoulet.
  • Payal of Keep the Peas discusses Everyday Wines from the Côtes du Rhône.
  • Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm shares A Month's Worth of Celebrations with Côtes du Rhône.


Thanks to Côte du Rhônes and Teuwen Communications for providing the samples in this post. I still have one bottle to go, so we’ll hopefully see a Côtes du Rhône here again soon.


Today we have an inexpensive wine that inspired a whole lot of lily gilding. 

At $16, the Vinos del Viento Cariñena Selección Especial 2015 ain’t fancy, but it somehow pushed to make a rather elaborate dinner, at least by weekday standards. Once we came with the basic idea for the pairing, we just kept zhuzhing. I’m in no way sorry though – the results were fabulous.


Cariñena ²


Cariñena is both the name of a grape and a region in Spain and today we’re talking about both.


The Grape 


I think the Cariñena grape deserves a second look – or a first look if it’s new to you. It’s also possible you’ve met it under one of its aliases. Carignan is its name in English, but it also goes by Mazuelo, Samsó, and several other names. 


It’s also possible you’ve had it and never realized it because it’s most often used as a blending grape in many of the places it’s grown including in Spain and throughout southern France. Moreover, it’s usually a supporting character at best – like not even top three billing. 


Carignan Viala et Vermorel.jpg
By Viala et Vermorel - Ampélographie, Public Domain, Link


For much of its history, this grape was also overcropped and overplanted for its high yields and often not handled with much care or an eye towards quality. Thanks to this overproduction in the late 20th century and early 2000s, it became a major component of Europe’s Wine Lake, the surplus of cheap wine that flooded the EU for a time. To help control this problem, many vines were pulled and many of those pulled were Carignan, and probably rightfully so.


What’s interesting is that a lot of the Cariñena vines that are left are really old vines now and are making very compelling wines IMHO. (This seems to be true to me outside of Europe as well, as there are also excellent old vine examples coming out of the US and elsewhere.)


Despite all the shade this grape has received, I think this grape has a lot going for it! It’s deeply colored and is naturally high in both tannin and acidity. These factors are a big part of the reason that the grape has been so often used as a blending grape. It makes sense to me that if farmed with care and in the hands of conscientious producers, this grape can produce really tasty wines. They’re also often reasonably priced since it’s not usually considered to be a star grape. A lot of the more modern examples I’ve tasted also have been handled with methods to tame the tannins (such as carbonic maceration) so that they’re not as intense or bitter, as they can be in bad versions of the grape. 


You can expect juicy mixed berry flavors from Cariñena/Carignan along with spices and wild herb and game flavors. Good examples are often very food-friendly.

 


The Place




The grape takes the name Cariñena from the town (and DO) of the same name in the larger region of Aragon in northeastern Spain. Most likely the grape did originate in the area, and once upon a time, it dominated the vineyards of its home area. However, nowadays, Grenache is the leader in the vineyards. Cariñena (the grape) is prone to certain diseases, and Grenache seems to generally suit the environment better. Nonetheless, there seems to be some renewed interest in bringing back Cariñena as a varietal wine. A wide mix of other red and white grapes are also permitted, so while the region is known for full-bodied Grenache-based reds, a variety of other styles are produced here, albeit in much smaller quantities.


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Cariñena lies about halfway between Madrid and Barcelona in the Ebro Valley, occupying about 82 square kilometers. It’s not easy terrain. It’s extremely rocky with a continental climate and extreme seasonal variation. It gets super cold and windy here, although those winds have their upside. In the summer, they provide relief from the intense heat and protect the vines from humidity. Elevations vary quite a bit, with most vineyards being located between  400 and 800 meters (1,300-2,600ft). 



Winemaking here goes way back. There are records dating back until Roman times at the very least. The region has also had many famous fans throughout the years. King Ferdinand I of Aragon considered it his favorite wine and Voltaire waxed poetic about it. It’s one of the oldest demarcated appellations in Europe, and it’s the second oldest in Spain having received its DO status in 1932. 


Cariñena’s vines are likewise very old, with forty percent of the vines being more than 20 years old. The oldest vines in the region are over a hundred years old. Somehow the majority of the region escaped the plague of phylloxera, so their vines had a leg up on most of Europe. 


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The region was known for big, burly wines, that weren’t always of the best quality. However, they’ve been refocusing on quality in the last few decades. Winemakers are experimenting with new techniques and sustainable vineyard practices are becoming increasingly common. The DO also dropped the minimum ABV in from 14 to 12% in 1990, which certainly allows winemakers more flexibility in their winemaking and the ability to make lighter, fresher styles along with the big and the bold.


You might also see age classifications on bottles from Cariñena. These are similar to those you’ll find in Rioja, with designations such as Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. (You can find those laid out in detail here.)


THE WINE & PAIRING



A’ight, let’s get back to the wine and food!


I love Grenache, but I thought it would be fun to take a look at a bottle of Cariñena from Cariñena because I’m a dork. I found what I was looking for at K&L in San Francisco in the Vinos del Viento Cariñena Selección Especial 2015. In addition to the grape, the wine was also very nicely priced, and – I’m not gonna lie – I also liked the label. K&L is importing wines from Vinos del Viento themselves, which I’m sure helps them keep the price down.


Vinos del Viento, which is means “wines of the wind”, is a project focused on showcasing the terroir of Aragon through its indigenous varieties Garnacha and Cariñena. Winemaker Michael Cooper is a California native from Santa Barbara, who moved to Spain in 2002, and has become a “Vine Hunter” (per the website) in the process. He has searched out high altitude, old-vines (between 35 and 99 years old), and dry farmed vineyards with unique microclimates. The goal is to make wines of purity and freshness that are priced for everyday drinking, but that also show complexity. In addition to being dry-farmed, no pesticides are used in the vineyards and the bottles used are lightweight, made from recycled materials, and are made locally.


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Cooper started making varietal wines from Cariñena back in 2009 when basically no one else was doing it. The vines that gave the grapes for this wine come from a vineyard in Cariñena located at 700 meters above sea level. The vines are over 40+-year-old bush vines that are hand-harvested. A splash of Syrah mixed in with the Carignan. 


Greg and I both really enjoyed this wine. Last week Greg brought his A-game to the pairing party; this week he came up with a gem of a tasting note. Rather than the usual, his tasting note came out as a story and it went something like this:


In the heart of a burnt-out forest, a magical tomato-blackberry fruit grew out of the ash and bramble. The fruit was dark and rich and the villagers from the nearby town came and harvested it. They transported it back to town in barrels made from the forest’s charred wood. Of course, in the process of collecting the fruit, some of the dust and bramble made it into the barrels as well. Once they got the fruit back to town, the barrels sat out for just a bit in the sun, which warmed the juicy fruit and deepened the flavors.


I really don’t think I can improve on that, so I’m just going to leave it there other than to say that despite the intensity of flavor and 14.5% alcohol, this wine didn’t feel heavy and it went down very easily. It had lots of bright acidity that kept everything lifted and very smooth tannins.


We considered lots of options for this wine and thought it would go with lots of different foods, although all of our pairing ideas did involve some kind of smoky flavor element. I really liked the idea of this wine with some kind of meaty seafood, and we landed on octopus flavored with smoked paprika and probably involving tomatoes and red peppers. We also decided that bacon should somehow be involved, and I decided that said bacon should be topping potatoes. Something was still missing though, and it finally dawned on me that what I wanted with all of this was Romesco sauce. This sauce from Catalonia incorporates tomatoes, peppers, almonds, garlic, and smoked paprika, so basically all the flavors I was looking for. 


The dish resulting from all of these ideas was octopus braised in wine, which then got a quick sear to finish, served on smashed potatoes cooked in bacon fat and topped with the bacon bits with Romesco sauce. 



Like I said, this was quite a bit of work for a weekday, but the results were just so tasty! On the other hand, I think this dish is a perfect candidate for leisurely weekend cooking. The octopus takes time, but it’s really pretty easy to make. Similarly, the potatoes require a couple of steps, but they’re simple and involves smashing things, which is always satisfactory. The sauce is a breeze – throw everything in the blender and it’s done. 


If you’re looking to simplify things, I’ll say that I think any two of the three components here will work well together as a duo. Serve the octopus with the potatoes and use a little bit of the octopus’ braising liquid as a sauce. Or keep things light and serve the octopus with sauce and have a salad on the side. The potatoes and the Romesco are a no-brainer, giving you something every close to patatas bravas. If you cut things into small portions, any of these combinations could also be a tapa. Any of these options is bound to be a hit!


The pairing as served was really fantastic. The wine matched the flavors in the sauce and the char on the octopus beautifully. It also matched the intensity of the food, but at the same time, the wine’s brightness really refreshed the palate so that nothing felt heavy despite the richness. We also served this wine very slightly chilled (more like cellar temperature) which made it all the more refreshing. 


Here I cut up pieces of leftover octopus which I layered on grilled bread topped with Romesco sauce and a little Manchego. The toast is soaking up spoonfuls of the octopus’ braising liquid that I’d ladled into the bowls.



OTHER POSSIBILITIES 


We were extremely tempted to pair this wine with these Juicy Lucies topped with pimento cheese. It was very close, as we’re pretty sure this would be an excellent burger wine. Other dishes we considered included paella, a pizza flavored with smoked paprika, meatballs in a tomato-pepper sauce, carbonara with smoked paprika (basically all options involved smoked paprika), salmon with charred skin and a smoky sauce, and all kinds of shellfish and cephalopods. 


The winery also recommends:“Roasted poultry, grilled meats, stews. Blue Fish dishes like grilled Ahi tuna.”


I’ve previously shared a couple of other octopus dishes here, and I think you could pretty easily mix and match the wines and dishes:


  • Cooking to the Wine: Passagem Douro Reserva with Spiced Wine Braised Octopus
  • Cooking to the Wine: Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva with Smoky Seared Octopus


THE GEEKY DETAILS


Additional details can be found in the tech sheet. 


Blend: 85% Cariñena (Carignan), 15% Syrah

Viticulture: Single Vineyard, 40+-year-old bush vines, dry farmed, and hand-harvested. The vineyard is allocated 700 meters above sea level in the municipality of Cariñena, with alluvial soil, mixed with brown slate and high iron content clay. 

Winemaking: The fermentation took place in stainless steel vats with native yeasts. Aged in new French oak barrels for 12 months. Minimal filtration.

Alcohol: 14.5% 


MONEY TALK 


At $16, I absolutely think this wine is an Overachiever and delivers excellent value. It's also currently on sale for $11 at K&L – I think that's crazy good deal. I might need to drag myself over the bridge again to SF to buy more!


octopus, braise
dinner, tapas
Spanish
Servings: 4
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson
Smoky Octopus Braised in Red Wine

Smoky Octopus Braised in Red Wine

Prep Time: 10 MinCooking Time: 125 MinTotal Time: 2 H & 15 M

Ingredients

  • 1 Octopus (2 to 3 pounds)
  • ½ onion, roughly chopped into large pieces
  • 3 to 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 bottle inexpensive red wine (if you’d rather not give up the whole bottle, use 2 glasses and combine with water in the pan)
  • 2 to 3 sprigs of oregano
  • 1 sprig of rosemary
  • 2 to 3 parsley stems
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • Olive oil

Instructions

  1. Prep the octopus. If it hasn’t already been cleaned by your fishmonger, wash and clean it. Make a cut around the beak, push the beak out then pull it away and the rest of the organs will come with it. You can also cut around the eyes to remove them.
  2. Add a generous pour of olive oil (2 to 3 tablespoons) to a large pot or braising pan, followed by the rest of the ingredients including a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the temperature down to a low simmer. Add the octopus to the pot. The liquid should nearly cover the octopus – if needed add additional water to the pan. Cover and continue to cook the octopus over a very gentle simmer for about two hours, or until it is tender can be pierced easily by a fork or knife.
  3. Once the octopus is cooked, remove it from the pot (reserving the cooking liquid for later use) and pat it dry with paper towels.
  4. Heat a generous pour of olive oil in a large pan until it begins to shimmer. Add the octopus to the pan and sear until starting to char lightly, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from heat, cut into portions and serve with potatoes or grilled bread.

Notes:

If you're intimidated by the idea of cleaning and preparing octopus, check this really quick tutorial on YouTube for a demo.

Similar Recipes

Cooking to the Wine: Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva with Smoky Seared Octopus

https://www.sommstable.com/2021/05/Vinos-del-Viento-Carinena-with-Smoky-Octopus.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator

*****



potatoes, bacon
sides
Servings: 4
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson

Bacon Smashed Potatoes

Prep Time: 5 MinCooking Time: 55 MinTotal Time: 1 Hour

Ingredients

  • 1 lb potatoes (I used small Yukon golds here)
  • 4 slices of bacon
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • Olive oil (if needed)

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 425°F.
  2. Place potatoes in a large pot. Cover with cold water and salt generously. Place the pot on the stove, bring to a boil, and cook until a knife or fork easily pierces the potatoes. (Timing will vary depending on the size of the potatoes, so begin checking after the potatoes have been boiling for 5 minutes. It should take about 10 to 20 minutes total.) Remove from the heat, drain the water from the potatoes, then set aside until cool enough to handle.
  3. Crisp the bacon while the potatoes are boiling. Place the slices of bacon on a rimmed bacon sheet and cook in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until crispy and golden browned, flipping the slices once halfway through. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and transfer the bacon to another plate, and reserve the baking sheet with the rendered bacon fat.
  4. Once the potatoes have cooled down a bit, use a potato masher, fork, or the bottom of a mug (or anything else you can think of to help you put pressure on the potatoes) to smash each potato individually, trying to keep them as close to in one piece as possible (but don’t worry if some pieces break off).
  5. Place the smashed potatoes on the baking sheet and toss them lightly in the rendered bacon fat. If needed, drizzle additional olive oil on top. Sprinkle with salt a pepper. Place in the oven and roast for 30 to 40 minutes, flipping the potatoes once halfway through. The potatoes are ready when they’re crispy and golden on the outside, but still a little bit fluffy in the center. Crumble up the bacon slices and add them to the potatoes during the last minute or two of cooking to rewarm.
  6. Remove the potatoes from the oven and serve hot.

Notes:

Notes: You can easily customize the texture of these potatoes in a couple of different ways. If you smash the potatoes lightly, the final texture will be on the fluffier side. On the other hand, if you flatten them more or smash them in a way that causes them to break apart into smaller pieces, you’ll end up with a crispier texture. You can also pull them out whenever they’re browned to your liking since they’re already fully cooked – 20 minutes might be enough for some people if you like a softer texture or leave them in longer to have them be extra crispy. Finally, if you skip flipping the potatoes halfway through, you’ll end up a combined texture with potatoes that are crispier on one side and fluffier on the other, which can also be nice. 



https://www.sommstable.com/2021/05/Vinos-del-Viento-Carinena-with-Smoky-Octopus.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator


******


sauce
Spanish
Servings: Approximately 3 cups
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson

Easy Romesco Sauce

Prep Time: 5 MinCooking Time: 5 MinTotal Time: 10 Min
This is a very easy and extremely flavorful sauce. This recipe is based on a combination of versions of this sauce found on Cookieandkate.com and Bonappetit.com

Ingredients

  • ounce jar of roasted red peppers, drained
  • ½ cup slivered almonds, roasted
  • ¼ cup tomato purée or crushed tomatoes
  • 8 to 10 cherry tomatoes or one small tomato
  • 3 to 4 garlic cloves garlic, peeled
  • 1 tsp sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
  • 2 Tbsps chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Salt
  • Pepper

Instructions

  1. Blend the first 9 ingredients in a blender or food processor. Add in salt (start with ½ tsp and add more as desired) and pepper. Start drizzling in the olive oil while continuing to run the blender/food processor. Continue blending until you reach your desired consistency – pulse for a chunky sauce or blend for a creamier texture. Taste and adjust seasoning.
  2. Serve.

Notes:

Romesco sauce can separate and lose its creamy texture if cooked over too high heat. I often like to serve it warm though, and will often use the following trick: Place the sauce in a mason jar and cover. Place the mason jar in a small pot of simmering water and keep warm until ready to serve. 


This recipe also makes more than we can typically eat in a week, however, I find that this sauce freezes well. It might separate a bit when you decide to thaw it, but a bit of stirring or a quick run through the blender makes it all creamy again.



https://www.sommstable.com/2021/05/Vinos-del-Viento-Carinena-with-Smoky-Octopus.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator


******


The beautiful iridescent Aura Wine Glasses in these photos were provided by Dragon Glassware as samples. I've partnered with Dragon Glassware as an ambassador. Click here to get the glasses for yourself and use the code "NICOLE10" for 10% off. (I might receive commission through the links at no cost to you.)




*****


The rest of the World Wine Travel blogging group is exploring the wines of Aragon this month, hosted by Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm. Be sure to check out the rest of their posts:

 

  • 2015 Vinos del Viento Cariñena + Pulled Pork Sandwiches by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
  • A Tale of Garnacha, Exploring Aragon by Avvinare
  • Aragón by Tabletop: Arroz Aragonés + 2015 Vinos del Viento Cariñena by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • Aragon’s Carinena and Castles + Olive Anchovy Sammies by Wine Predator
  • Calatayud, Aragon Wines: Evodia + Fully Loaded Pork Taquitos by Our Good Life
  • Campo De Borja: The Empire of Garnacha by My Full Wine Glass
  • Cooking to the Wine: Vinos del Viento Cariñena with Smoky Octopus, Bacon Smashed Potatoes, and Romesco Sauce by Somm's Table
  • Exploring Aragon via Plate and Glass by Food Wine Click!
  • Exploring the Kingdom of Aragon and Its Wines by Crushed Grape Chronicles
  • Fountains of Wine in the Land of Kings by Children of the Grape
  • Heading to Aragón and Valdejalón with Bodegas Frontonio by Savor the Harvest
  • Learning Spain - Aragon's Four Wine Regions: Carinena, Somontano, Calatayud, and Campo De Borja Through Eight Wines by Chinese Food and Wine Pairings
  • Two Bottles of Lovely Wine from a Lovely Area by A Day in the Life on the Farm



Additional sources used for this post and extra reading:

  • El Vino de las Piedras DOP Cariñena
  • Wine-searcher.com
  • Grandes Vinos: Carineña
  • SpanishWines.org: Aragon
  • Winefolly.com: Guide to Carignan: The Food Wine
  • The Oxford Companion via JancisRobinson.com
  • Young Gun of Wine: Carignan
  • Grapes & Wines: A Comprehensive Guide to Varieties and Flavours
  • Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours


This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.

 

 

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Somm's Table 2017