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Perfect pairings from the other side of the equation.

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Côtes du Rhônes are super versatile and tend to be quite affordable, making them great everyday wine staples. We're exploring various different styles and colors and some of their many pairing possibilities.

This post contains wines provided as media samples. As always, all opinions are my own and no other compensation was received.

Côtes du Rhône wines are staple house wines around here. I do not hide that if forced to choose, the Rhône is my favorite French wine region for reds. Combine that with the fact that most tend to be pretty affordable, easy-going, and food-friendly, and you get the perfect recipe for a weeknight go-to on my wine rack. They also tend to be crowd-pleasers, so they’re an easy choice when I need to please a wide set of palates including my own. 

We’ve explored the Côtes du Rhône in-depth before, in All the Colors of Côtes du Rhône with Famille Perrin, so I invite you to take a look at that post which also includes a longer cheat sheet, but I’ll summarize some of the basics of the region here.



5 Fact Côtes du Rhône Cheat Sheet

  • The AOC/AOP covers the entire Rhône Valley. This includes both the northern and southern sections, encompassing over 98,000 acres as of 2021. That said, most CdR comes from the Southern Rhône. 
  • Côtes du Rhône is one of France’s oldest and largest winemaking regions. The Greeks and the Romans originally planted vines here in approximately 125 BC. Côtes du Rhône means “the hillsides of the Rhône [River]” and it is the entry-level appellation for the Rhône as a whole. It produces over 40 million gallons of wine. That’s a lot of wine, but there are lots of good values to be found if you look for quality-conscious producers. 
  • CdR’s come in Red, White, and Rosé. The overwhelming amount of wine produced is red as over 95% of the region’s vineyards are planted with red grapes, which of course can be used for rosé as well, but you will find white wines too. 
  • It’s all about the blends. While single-varietal bottlings are allowed (we’ll see one example today), blends are the norm, and producers 21 permitted grape varieties to choose from. 
    • Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre  (aka GSM) are the star players for the reds, with Grenache usually making up the base of the blend, as it is the most planted grape in Southern Rhône. Cinsault and Carignan also make frequent appearances. 
    • Marsanne, Roussane, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc are common players among the whites. 
  • There are levels. Côtes du Rhône is the entry point and the base of the region’s quality pyramid, but this tier is further subdivided into a couple of levels. (Above this are the region’s named crus.)  Restrictions and regulations get tighter as you move up the pyramid.
    • The Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC was added in for villages deemed to be producing wines of consistently higher quality. For the reds, Grenache must make up at least  50% of the blend, with 20% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. A maximum of 20% of other authorized varieties is permitted. The rosés follow the same percentages with the added stipulation that a blend can use only up to 20% of white varieties.
    • Next up are the named Côtes du Rhône Villages. These communes get to attach their name on the label. Currently, there are 22, but more are occasionally added, and sometimes a village will graduate to cru level. 

This infographic further summarizes the levels and details.


In this post we'll range around many of the different styles, looking at all of the colors, and the various tiers, including four of the named villages. 

Pairing Côtes du Rhône Wines

I personally find the wines to be super versatile to pair since, regardless of the color, there tends to be a nice balance between savory notes and ripe fruit notes, so they can work with many different styles of cuisines. The whites have a ripeness and intensity of aromatics that allow them to even work with slightly sweet dishes and tricky to pair Asian cuisines that use many a variety of flavors, while still remaining dry. (A good option if you like those cuisines, but don’t want to go with an off-dry option.) Generally speaking, I find the rosés to have a little more body than those from the entry-level in neighboring Provence, so they work a little better with things like chicken and pork on average. For their part, the reds can range from medium-bodied to full-bodied, but on average the tannins aren’t super aggressive so they don’t overpower lighter meats, but they’re full enough to work with heavier meats as well. If you’re not sure where to go, the old pairing adage “what grows together, goes together” definitely applies here, so Mediterranean flavors are always a safe bet.

Here we’ll see them paired against a variety of styles of dishes including some everyday favorites. While I haven’t included any full recipes in this post, there are several non-recipes included in the mix, as well as a leftover makeover idea.

The Wines

Ogier Artesis Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2018 with Seared Scallops with Browned Butter, Roasted Butternut Squash, and Sautéed Kale 



Blend: 35% Grenache Blanc, 20% Clairette, 20% Roussanne, 15% Viognier, 10% Bourboulenc (Note: Different versions of the tech sheet had slightly different blends/percentages.) 
SRP: $17 (sample) | ABV: 13% | Farming Practices: Unspecified/Conventional

The Ogier name goes all the way back to 800 A.D. when “Ogier the Dane” fought with Charlemagne’s army in the Basque Country, and decided to settle in southeastern France’s Massif Central region. Fast forward a few centuries to 1859, and we meet Antoine Ogier, a descendent of Ogier the Dane, who decides to purchase a cooperage and established himself as a wine producer in the nearby Rhône Valley.

In over 160 years, the company has expanded its holdings considerably, most of which are in the Southern Rhône. The winery itself is located in the center of the village in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and they produce wines from CdP, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Lirac. They also make a few bottlings from parcels within Crozes-Hermitage and Côte Rôtie in the Northern Rhône.

About the Wine: The wine is named for three Artesian wells found on the property where the winery was established. Grapes are gently pressed and then undergo fermentation at cool temperatures to preserve the aromatics, as well as to prevent malolactic fermentation. The wine then rests on its lees in concrete vats to gain body and richness.  
Soil: Galets on sand, clay, and limestone.
Find additional information here and here. 

Tasting Notes: The wine had an expressive nose showing notes of peaches, gold apples, Meyer lemon cream, as well as lots of flowers including honeysuckle and peach blossoms. These all come back on the palate, but are a little more tart, with a little grapefruit pith mixed in, as well as touches of herbs, stones, and rounded, beeswax texture on the mid-palate.

The Pairing and How it Worked: It was a beautiful match with seared scallops in brown butter with butternut squash seasoned with sage, sautéed kale, and pepitas sprinkled on top. The cubes of squash were tossed salt, pepper, olive oil, and sage and roasted in the oven at 425°F for 30-35 minutes, or until nicely caramelized. I seared the scallops on both sides in a mixture of olive oil and butter. Once ready, I transferred them out of the pan, then sauteéd the kale quickly in the browned butter mixture. Once everything was plated together, I sprinkled a little Parmesan and pepitas on top for a little extra flair and crunch. 

The wine struck a nice balance between speaking to the richness and silky texture of the scallops in browned butter, while also having enough brightness to remain lively. It also had enough fruit to stand up to the light sweetness of the butternut squash, while the light herbal notes integrated with the sage and kale. 

Additional Pairings: The winery recommends this wine as an aperitif or with accompanies seafood dishes (scallops, shrimps, prawns, fresh line fish) with herbs (sage, tarragon) or roasted chicken. (I hadn’t read those recs in advance, but we were clearly on the same page.) 


Domaine Chamfort La Pause Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet Rosé 2019 with Seared Salmon and Sheet-pan Mediterranean Vegetables and Parmesean Cream


Blend: 50% Grenache / 50% Syrah | SRP: $19 (sample)  | ABV: 14.1% 
Farming Practices: Organic, Certified as of 2021

Vasco Perdigao acquired the Domain Chamfort estate in 2010 and now works with the help of his partner  Sonia Léorat. He spent several years making wine in the northern areas of Côtes du Rhône, before deciding to start his own project in the southern Rhône Valley. 

About the Wine: His Sablet vineyard is nestled into the base of the Dentelles de Montmirail on the northern edge of the famed Gigondas zone, overlooking the village of Sablet. The vineyards are planted on slightly sloping terraces with south-southwest exposure. The nearby mountains have a cooling influence on temperatures that brings freshness and balance to the grapes. This rosé is made via the saignée method.
Average Vine Age: 20 - 50 years  |  Soil: Limestone, sand, and galets.
Find additional information here. 

Tasting Notes: Aromas of tangerine, peach, white cherry, with a slight touch of cream, welcomed us on the palate. Similar fruit notes continued on the palate and were tangy, bright, showing a little stony minerality, a pinch of white pepper, and rounded body and texture. 

The Pairing and How it Worked: The wine worked beautifully with salmon, roasted zucchini, cherry tomatoes, and peppers on garlic cream. The salmon was simply seared to crisp the skin. The vegetables were also simply prepared roasted with salt, pepper, olive oil, and thyme in the oven at 425°F for about 20-25 minutes until starting to brown. All of the veggies can be combined on a sheet pan together, save the cherry tomatoes which can be added during the last five minutes of cooking. I served it all with a Parmesan-garlic cream spread to add flavor and textural contrast. You can also swap in aioli for a similar feel. 

The wine and the food matched each other beautifully. A hint of tang in the wine was perfect with the tomatoes. The textures also mirrored each other seamlessly, and the wine seemed to grow more rounded on the palate in the pairing.

Additional Pairings: The winery recommends this wine with a variety of foods including grilled sausages with mashed potatoes with salted butter, grilled chicken curry with roasted pineapple, skewered grilled meats, and vegetables. 


Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône 2019 with a Mediterreanean Mezze Spread


Blend: 100% Grenache | SRP: $44 (sample) | ABV: 14% 
Farming Practices: Certified Biodynamic

Domaine Gramenon was established by Michèle Aubèry-Laurent, a former nurse, and her vigneron husband Philippe in the north-easternmost areas of the Southern Rhône, bottling their first vintage in 1990. Philippe was tragically killed in a car accident in 1999, but  Michèle carried on the business, embracing her new role with fervor, while also raising their three children. She now works the domaine’s twenty-six hectares with her son Maxime François. They employ organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyards and follow non-interventionist principles in their winemaking. 

About the Wine:  The grapes for this wine come old-vine Grenache vine from three plots in Gramenon, in the commune of Montbrison-sur-Le. Two parcels are located on limestone plateaus and around 1000 feet, and the third plot is on a sandy south-facing slope. Grapes are hand-harvested, sorted, then partially destemmed, and macerated in concrete tanks for fifteen days. Slow, ambient fermentation is followed by twelve months in a combination of barrels and demi-muids and bottled without fining or filtration.
Average Vine Age: 50 - 70 years | Soil: Sandstone, limestone, sand, and shells.
Find additional information here and here.

Tasting Notes: A mixture of peppery notes and raspberry sauce aromas greeted me on the nose, with lots of garrigue and a few wildflowers. On the palate, the wine started out with ripe, rich fruit notes balanced by savory herbs flavors, finishing with pencil lead and stones. This was one of my favorites in the bunch, although Greg liked it less on its own. (He liked it with the food.)

The Pairing and How it Worked: We this wine with kibbeh and mezze spread. I froze kibbeh after I made them for Indulging My Lebanese Cravings with Chateau Musar Jeune Rouge,  and it was so nice to have them on hand. I had hummus with smoked paprika and baked sourdough pita bread following this recipe. The fresh pita was soooo tasty! I also bought tabouli to go with it all. 

Another really tasty match. The allspice in the kibbeh brought out attractive spice notes in the wine, and vice versa. The hummus ended up with a little more smoked paprika than intended because the sprinkler top fell off as I was trying to sprinkle it on top of the hummus. Luckily, it was not an overpowering amount, and once stirred in it really worked, and the wine also really loved the smoky paprika flavor.


Domaine Fond Croze Les Vieux Ceps de Raymond Côtes du Rhône Villages Vaison-la-Romaine 2015 with Pork, Veggie, and Grain Bowls


Blend: 100% Carignan | Average price: $11 (Purchased via Garagiste.com) | Farming Practices: Certified Organic 

Domaine Fond Croze’s history dates back to the day after World War I ended in 1918 when upon returning from battle, Charles Long decided to settle with his family in Saint Roman de Malegarde, a small village in the northern part of Vaucluse, near the more famous villages of Cairanne and Rasteau. Charles became very dedicated to public life in the village and he served as mayor from 1983 to 2010. He also helped to create the Syndicat des Vignerons de Saint Roman de Malegarde.

His goal when he acquired his first land was to provide for his family’s needs, and he decided to cultivate vines, melons, peaches, and apricots. His son Raymon eventually joined him, and they began to expand the holdings with the majority dedicated to vines and olive trees. The Domaine itself was established in 1997 and they now hold over 80 hectares over various villages, which have been farmed organically since beginning conversion in 2009. Raymond’s sons Daniel and Bruno went on to join the family business, with Daniel focusing on managing the vineyards, and Bruno dedicating himself to oenology and working on the cuvées. Daniel’s son Guillaume now represents the 4th generation of the family to join the company.

About the Wine:  Mixing it up here, as this wine is a bit of an outlier from the rest in this post as it is made of old-vine Carignan rather than the more typical GSM grapes of the Southern Rhône. (I’m not sure how this Carignan gets around the CdR Village level  requirements to include the GSMs in the mix.) The grapes come from the northern slopes of a vineyard in Saint-Roman-De-Malegarde in the Vaucluse department. The cooler northern exposure helps to maintain freshness in the wines. Grapes are sorted and destemmed, then vinified in concrete tanks. The wine is also aged in concrete tanks for one year.
Soils: Stony clay-limestone.
Find additional information here. 

Tasting Notes: Notes of warm raspberry jam, plum sauce, dried figs, and berry fruit leather hit on the nose, the dried notes showing a bit of the wine’s age. Fruits were brighter on the palate and joined by notes of red licorice, spice, pepper, and pleasantly bitter herbs on the finish. 

The Pairing and How it Worked: When I have lots of bits and pieces leftover in the fridge from various meals, I find one of the easiest ways to use them up is to combine them in a grain or pasta bowl. In this case, I had pork, carrots, and some greens leftover from making this pork tenderloin dish, along with some roasted potatoes, so I cooked up some couscous and mixed them all together, and seasoned it with za’atar to add a different flavor. Adding nuts, dried fruits, cheese, or herbs are also all easy ways to add textures and flavor contrasts. 

This wine worked quite well with all of it, and the dried and ripe fruit flavors tied in nicely with the sweeter veggies and the spice mix.


Domaine Les Aphillanthes Les Galetss Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu 2019 with Prosciutto Pizza

Blend: 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 20% Mourvèdre | SRP: $24 (sample) |  ABV: 14.5%
Farming Practices: Certified Biodynamic

Daniel Boulle represents the fourth generation to work his family’s vines. He and his wife Hélène Boulle took over Domaine Les Aphillanthes in 1987 back when it was a modest 10 hectares, and have since increased their holdings to 30 hectares. They keep about 80% of their finest grapes and sell the rest. They also tend to limit themselves to about 130,000 bottles every year and keep their yields to about 25-30hl/ha, significantly less than the locally allowed 45hl/ha. 

They initially decided to convert to organic and biodynamic agriculture while looking for natural methods to help treat their son’s eczema. They went on to receive both of their organic and biodynamic certifications in 2007, from Ecocert and Biodivin respectively.

About the Wine: Plan de Dieu has soils of red clay that can sometimes be packed to a depth of 10 meters, mixed with smooth cobblestones throughout. Vines tend to growly sparsely in this terrain and fruit yields tend to be low. The resulting wines are dense, concentrated, and deeply colored. Grapes for this wine were hand-picked and sorted, then underwent a long, slow maceration and fermentation (~25 days). The wine was then matured in concrete vats for 18 months, followed by one year in bottle before release.
Average Vine Age: 45 years | Soil: Galets over clay and limestone
Find additional information here and here.

Tasting Notes: Aromas of raspberry jam, red plum, black cherry, and pinch white pepper hit on the nose. The same notes continued on the palate, with the pepper note growing more pronounced, with stony notes and a pinch of mixed herbs joining in the mix. The wine fruit notes were generous at the front of the palate, with a rounded body and mouthfeel that lead to a spicy finish.   

The Pairing and How it Worked: The wine worked easily with prosciutto pizza and got more supple, rounded, silky with the food. I’ve been making a lot of sourdough pizza since COVID started, and I’m happy to say it’s gotten better and better. (I’m planning a BIG pizza pairing post one of these days.) Prosciutto’s mild flavor makes it a fairly easy meat topping to pair, and I recommend adding it to the pizza once it comes out of the oven. It warms up quickly on the pizza.

Additional Pairings: The winery also recommends this wine as a pairing for Beef Bourguignon and other rich, slow-cooked stews.


Lavau Domaine La Decelle Côtes du Rhône Villages Valréas 2018 with a Mushroom & Caramelized Onion Burger


Blend: 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah | SRP: $ 14  | ABV: 13.5%  
Farming Practices: Unspecified/Conventional 

The Lavau family’s winemaking history dates back to the 19th century, starting in Saint-Émilion in Bordeaux, continuing in Tunisia, then back to France to the Rhône Valley when Jean-Guy Lavau and his wife Anne-Marie returned to France in the 1960s and took charge of a small winemaking cellar in Sablet that would eventually become Maison Lavau in 1965. The winery continues in family hands under Frédéric and Benoît Lavau. Lavau now owns 180 hectares of vineyards around the Rhône valley and works with over 350 winegrowers. 

About the Wine:  Benoît and Frédéric Lavau fell in love with Domaine la Décelle, an 82-hectare estate in Valréas, and purchased it in 2010. Valréas is distinctive for the position of its north and west-facing hillsides. Because the slopes do not experience the full force of the sun, combined with the area’s predominantly clay soils which are able to retain water and maintain cooler temperatures, vines are less vulnerable to drought than other parts of the region. Cold air blowing down from the Alpine foothills further cools the vines. Domaine la Décelle is located at the heart of the region in the Enclave des Papes, at an altitude just over 1,000 feet above sea level. The grapes undergo a long 30-day period of maceration and fermentation, with traditional rack and returns and frequent pump-overs. The wine is then aged for six months in second-use French oak barrels before bottling.
Soil: Clay and limestone.
Find additional information here. 

Tasting Notes: On the nose, the wine showed notes of raspberry, cherry, and thyme. These were joined on the palate by flavors of red plums, more herbs, white pepper, stones, a little anise, and violet. This was an easy-drinking wine with ripe, silky fruit notes and dusty tannins. 

The Pairing and How it Worked: I’ve been wanting a burger since putting together All About Burger Pairings a couple of weeks ago, so I decided to indulge the craving for this pairing while visiting my inlaws in San Diego. I used a combination of lamb and beef for these burgers and included some cooked onions in the mix. I also made a caramelized onion and mushroom topping to enjoy with the burgers by cooking onions in olive oil with salt and pepper until they’d started to caramelize, then adding sliced mushrooms to the pan to sauté as the onion developed deeper color. The pan was alternately deglazed with sherry vinegar, red wine, and soy sauce. We didn’t have buns on hand, so I melted cheddar cheese on English muffins to use as buns instead. (I often like the sourdough flavor of English muffins with burgers anyways.) 

These were deliciously messy burgers – be ready with lots of napkins! – but whenever I did manage to have a clean hand long enough to grab my glass of wine, it made for a very good pairing. The combination of meaty, smoky, and umami flavors all melded easily with the flavors in the wine, and the wine had plenty of fruit to stand up to the light sweetness of the caramelized onions.

Additional Pairings: The winery also recommends this wine with roast duck, pot roasts, or grilled pork loin.


*****

Check out these previous posts and recipes related to the Rhône:

  • All the Colors of Côtes du Rhône with Famille Perrin 
  • A Simple Spring Lamb Feast with Maison Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage 
  • Cooking to the Wine: Les Vins de Vienne Gigondas with Gratinéed Shepherd's Pie  
  • Cooking to the Wine: Clos de Trias Ventoux with Bacon-Cheddar-Teriyaki Burgers  
  • 5 Nights of Rasteau  
  • 8 & $20: Braised Lamb Shanks and Lentil Stew  
  • 8 & $20: Ham Steaks with Peach-Tomato Succotash
  • A Wine & Cheese Night #MadeinFrance
  • French Wine 101 Cheat Sheet 

*****

The rest of the French Winophiles (#Winophiles) blogging group is exploring Côtes du Rhône this month. Be sure to check out the rest of their posts for more pairing ideas:

  • Jeff from Food Wine Click! thinks we should Embrace the Base of the Côtes du Rhône Pyramid.
  • Cindy of Grape Experiences suggests we Sip Wine from the Côtes-du-Rhône... then Visit the Rhône Valley.
  • Cathie of Side Wino Hustle says OMGigondas!
  • Mel of Wining with Mel introduces us to The Wonderful World of Chapoutier in Côtes du Rhône.
  • Terri of Our Good Life tells you What You Need to Know about Côtes du Rhône Wines.
  • Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla is Assembling an End of Summer Cheeseboard with Domaine Chamfort Sablet La Pause Côtes du Rhône Villages 2019.
  • Robin of Crushed Grapes Chronicles talks about Côtes du Rhône & Côtes du Rhône Villages – a plethora of flavors to pair with!
  • David of Cooking Chat shares Grilled Sirloin Steak and Côtes du Rhône.
  • Jen of Vino Travels takes us on A Journey Through the Cotes du Rhone.
  • Jane of Always Ravenous shares Cote du Rhone Wines: Tasting and Pairing.
  • Katrina of The Corkscrew Concierge explains Why You Should be Drinking White Rhône Wines.
  • Linda of My Full Wine Glass introduces us to Red, White and Pink-The Colors of Côtes du Rhône Wine.
  • Pinny of Chinese Food and Wine Pairings shares Côtes du Rhône and Perfect Fried Rice.
  • Jill of L'Occasion is Feeling Satisfied with Côtes du Rhône.
  • Susannah of Avvinare shares A Fresh Look at the Côtes du Rhône.
  • Liz of What's in That Bottle? declares Côtes du Rhône Offers Fancy, French & Affordalicious Wines.
  • Gwendolyn of Wine Predator...Gwendolyn Alley considers White, Red, Rosé? Côtes du Rhône Wines Paired with Squash Soufflé, Instant Pot Cassoulet.
  • Payal of Keep the Peas discusses Everyday Wines from the Côtes du Rhône.
  • Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm shares A Month's Worth of Celebrations with Côtes du Rhône.


Thanks to Côte du Rhônes and Teuwen Communications for providing the samples in this post. I still have one bottle to go, so we’ll hopefully see a Côtes du Rhône here again soon.


Happy Thanksgiving Friends!

I know this year looks pretty different for a lot of us, and most of our celebrations are considerably scaled down from the usual thanks to the Zombie Apocalypse. Nonetheless, I hope you're finding ways to feast, share, feast, and find pockets of love and joy even if we're not with as many of our loved ones as we might want to be. (On the other hand, maybe you're being saved some awkward conversations with family members you don't speak to often and are just as happy to avoid. If so, then cheer for you!) For our part, we'll be celebrating with two friends we regularly pod-up with and the fours of us will be having a weekend of feasting. 

However, you're celebrating, if you're looking for pairing help for tomorrow, check out this Thanksgiving Pairing Guide Round-Up I put up last year. This year, I thought I'd start a tradition of sharing highlights from the previous year. This year, it's also serving as a nice trip down memory lane to think of family that's far away.

In normal times, we typically celebrate Thanksgiving with Greg's family, which is typically hosted by my sister-in-law Hillary, who always makes a parade-o-pies, which you can glimpse in the picture at the top. I will definitely miss gorging myself on those tomorrow. Next to the pies – and of course, the people – my favorite part of Thanksgiving is the smorgasbord of wines. There are a lot of wine geeks in the family, and many bring several bottles.  

Last year, my brother-in-law Dave (who is quite possibly responsible for sending me down the wine geek rabbit hole) and his wife Julia, hosted the event. It was a little smaller than usual, but it was a particularly nice holiday for me as my parents joined us as well. It's nice to be able to fall back on those memories now. 

Just a few memories from that weekend.

And here's a glimpse at the feast.

Turkey in the first 2, roasted delicate squash with cheese, bacon and pepitas, stuffing, herbed mushrooms, mashed potatoes, roasted carrots with nuts and crispy sage, and mushroom Wellington pockets. Dave and Julia made the turkey, stuffing, and mashed potatoes. My mom made the mushrooms. I made the squash, carrots, and Wellington pockets. Group effort!


Of course, with one of the bigger wine geeks in the family hosting, of course wine continued to be a big piece of the puzzle. 

These were the wines that kicked things off, and a good example of three styles that I think should always be candidates for the Thanksgiving table: sparkling, Chardonnay, and rosé. We had the Sommariva Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiane Superiore Brut DOCG (avg. price $17),  Hanzell Vineyards Sebella Chardonnay Sonoma Valley (avg. price $32), and the Hamel Family Wines Estate Rosé from Sonoma County. (Sorry, not sure of the vintage on the latter 2.) Chards tend to go really well with a roasted turkey with gravy, as well as a lot of the savory sides, and even quite a bit of lightly sweet sides like squash and carrots – the Hanzell is a beautiful example. Sparkling wines, in particular a fruity style like this Prosecco Superiore DOCG, and rosés are utlity players because they can both serve as aperitifs and they go well with all kinds of dishes on the table, often even sweeter,  hard to pair sides. 

Here was the rest of our Thanksgiving Day Line-Up from left to right: Miles 10 Year Old Rich Tinta Negra Madeira (sample),  Paul Jaboulet Aine Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage 2015 (avg. price $40), Jean-Louis Dutraive Domaine de la Grand'Cour Fleurie 2015, Whitehall Lane Winery & Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 (avg. price $39), Domaine de l'Amandine Côtes du Rhône Villages Seguret  (avg. price $17), Sandro Fay Ca Morei Valtellina Superiore Valgella DOCG 2015 (avg. price $29),  Derby Wine Estates Cabernet Franc Paso Robles 2012 (sample).


These were all lovely, but will just call out a few and the role I think they play at the table. 

  • Medium-bodied reds are excellent at the Thanksgiving table because they work very easily with lots of different dishes. Those that mix elements of fruitiness and earthiness such as Beaujolais Crus like Jean-Louis Dutraive Domaine de la Grand'Cour Fleurie have the widest range. Something a little unexpected like the Sandro Fay Ca Morei Valtellina Superiore Valgella can also be a lot fun. 
  • Côtes du Rhônes, like the  Domaine de l'Amandine Côtes du Rhône Villages Seguret , are crowd pleasers and also work solidly well with a lot of things. 
  • I love the Northern Rhône, so the Paul Jaboulet Aine Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage 2015 was definitely a favorite with me. I scratches the itch for something a little bolder without being too aggressive. 
  • The Derby Wine Estates Cabernet Franc Paso Robles 2012  was definitely full-bodied, but it had herbal notes mixed in that worked well with some of the savory dishes, and the tannins were smooth and ripe, so not super aggressive. A good option for those who just crave a big, bold red.
  • Finally, the Miles 10 Year Old Rich Tinta Negra Madeira was sweet but had lots of brightness as well, along with notes of  blood orange skin, dates, touch of cherry, clove, and coffee and I thought it was delicious with apple pie!

Now as is often the case when family and friends are traveling in from various places, Thanksgiving was actually a multi-day affair. Several of those dinners had wines worth sharing for the holiday as well. 

Last year, we kicked off the first night of feasting with a dinner out with just Greg's and my parents at Mägo, one of our favorite restaurants here in Oakland. A lot of the dishes were Thanksgiving-esque , although turkey was kept out of the picture.

 I think we pretty much ordered everything available that night.
Top: Radicchio with wagon wheel cheese, pomegrante, and duck fat vinaigrette; Roasted young beets, persimmon mole, and buckwheat; Grilled skirt steak, honey nut squash, savoy cabbage, and walnut salsa.
Middle:  Sturgeon, Mt. rose potato, fig leaf, curry, and leeks; Nettle tortellini, heirloom beans, Szechuan and sofrito;  BBQ carrots couscous, brown butter, and black sesame sauce (always one of my favorites!). 
Bottom: Charred Brussels sprouts, black pepper, and miso caramel, bloody butchers Johnny cakes w. salted strawberry and radishes; Fried brown rice, hedgehog mushroom, and a farm egg.

To accompany this all we had the Arnot-Roberts Sonoma Coast Syrah 2016, which was sleek and elegant, with a mix of berry, pepper, and spice notes. In a way, it was like a New World version of that Crozes-Hermitage up above – it hits the spot for something a little bigger, but isn't too over-powering.


And finally, the day after Thanksgiving, we all met up again for leftovers + dumplings I'd made under the instruction of my friend Delia. 

Admittedly, they don't look so pretty in the pan, and I forgot to take a picture once at the table, but the dumplings sure were tasty. Our nephew gobbled up the lion's share!

For this round, we had several wines that would've also been great options.  

Ridge Vineyards Buchignani Ranch Zinfandel Santa Cruz County 2012, Domaine Faiveley Clos des Myglands Monopole Mercurey Premier Cru , Pax The Hermit Syrah North Coast 2015, and  Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 30 2015.

We'll leave it here for now before I get even more carried away. 

Have a very Happy Thanksgiving!







 
Côtes du Rhônes are among my most regular everyday go-to’s. They’re kind of the quintessential bistro wine since they tend to not be expensive, are pretty food-friendly, and just generally easy-going. For the same reasons, they fall into a sweet spot for what I’m usually looking for in a weeknight wine. Similarly, if I’m having a party (when parties were a thing) and need to supply wine for lots of people, I’m bound to serve a few bottles of CdR because they tend to be crowd-pleasers, in addition to having those wallet-friendly prices. The Rhône also happens to be one of my very favorite wine regions, so I get to please my own palate as well.


 
Côtes du Rhône is actually quite a large AOP/AOC with 86,000 acres, and as is usually the case in large regions, there is a lot of variety and quite a bit more to know than one might expect. Here are the basics:

  • It covers the whole region. The Côtes du Rhône AOC was established in 1937 and covers the entire Rhône Valley, both north and south. That said, the grand majority of CdR comes from the Southern Rhône.
  • Most Rhône wine is Côtes du Rhône. This is the entry-level appellation for the region, and the majority of the wines released from the Rhône fall under it – over ⅔ according to GuildSomm.com, although I've seen figures of around 50% elsewhere.  
  • CdR’s come in Red, White, and Rosé. The overwhelming amount of wine is red as over 95% of the region’s vineyards are planted with red grapes, which of course can be used for rosé as well. However,  you will find white wines too. Today we’re going to look at an example of each color. 
  • It’s all about the blends. Generally, speaking most wines from the Southern Rhône are blends, and that’s also typically the case for CdR’s. Moreover, there are 21 permitted grape varieties to choose from. 
    • That said, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre (aka GSM) are the star players for the reds, with Grenache usually making up the base of the blend, as it is the most planted grape in Southern Rhône. Cinsault and Carignan also make frequent appearances. 
    • Marsanne, Roussane, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc are common players among the whites. 
  • There are levels. While Côtes du Rhône is the entry point and the base of the region’s quality pyramid, there are few more levels. With each rung you move up the ladder, the quality restrictions get tighter and there is  more regulation of how the wine is made.
    • In 1966 the Côtes du Rhône Villages AOC was added for villages deemed to be producing wines of consistently higher quality. 
    • Next up are the named Côtes du Rhône Villages. These communes get to attach their name on the label. Currently, there are 21, but more are occasionally added. 
    • The Crus sit at the top of the pyramid above all the CdR's. This tier includes all of the Rhône’s most famous appellations like Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côte-Rôtie. There are 8 in the north and 9 in the south. I hope to eventually get to them all, but so far we’ve explored:
      • Crozes-Hermitage (Northern Rhône)
      • Gigondas (Southern Rhône)
      • Ventoux  (Southern Rhône)
      • Rasteau  (Southern Rhône)

 

Famille Perrin


I recently received a set of samples of Famille Perrin’s Côtes du Rhône wines and I thought this would be a great opportunity to explore the range of CdR colors together.

The Perrin stepped into the wine world in 1909, Pierre Traminer bought the famous Château de Beaucastel and then transferred it to his son-in-law Pierre Perrin, a scientist who further developed the property. His son, Jacques, then continued his father’s work and continued expanding the family’s holdings. His sons Jean-Pierre and François now head up the business with the fifth and 6th generations involved in the company as well. They now have a wide range of holdings and wines spanning the entire Rhône pyramid, as well as participation in ventures around the world.

The family is also a leading organic grape grower in the Southern Rhône. The began working with organic farming techniques in 1950, and later biodynamic farming in 1974. They are trying many different techniques at their properties, which now span much further than the
Southern Rhône. Initiatives include an innovative renovation at Château de Beaucastel, as described in the article by Jill Barth on Forbes.com, and Regenerative Farming at Tablas Creek here in California, as described in this post by Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles. Their organically certified Nature Côtes du Rhône line, the red of which is described below, is another example.

THE WINES


For this post, I’m looking at three of their Côtes du Rhône, all of which are pretty classic examples of their respective CdR color and all very good values.
 
These wines were provided as media samples. Please note that no other compensation was received and all opinions are my own.
 

Côtes du Rhône Reserve Blanc 2019


Average Price: $12
Blend: Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier
Alc: 13%
Nose: White flowers, sweet honeysuckle, melon, white peach, and apples jump out of the glass.
Palate: All came back on the palate, and were joined by almonds, lemon cream, and stony minerals. It showed medium acid and medium body.
Find more details on the wine here.

 

Côtes du Rhône Reserve Rosé 2019


Average Price: $12
Blend: Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah
Alc: 13%
Nose: Cherry blossoms, tart cherries and strawberries.
Palate: The flowers and juicy red fruits were rounded out by a lightly creamy texture. Medium acidity and medium body.
Find more details on the wine here.

 

Côtes du Rhône Nature Rouge 2018


Average Price: $13
Blend: Grenache, Syrah
Alc: 14.1%
Nose:  A bouquet of herbs and flowers, with berries and rosehips.
Palate: Crushed berries, pepper, and pencil lead. It reminded me of brambly raspberry and blackberry bushes at the edge of a forest. Medium body, medium + acidity, and medium/medium + tannins.
The grapes for this wine are certified organic by Ecocert.
Find more details on the wine here.


THE PAIRINGS & HOW THEY WORKED



Our friends Dee and OWD visited the Rhône Valley last year, back when we could travel, although they focused on the Northern Rhône. 
 

I asked Dee to send me some pics of their adventures. These pics are of Cornas in Northern Rhône, where the landscape is more mountainous, and the weather and soils are bit different, but it still gives a bit of an idea of the rugged, rocky terrain.

Dee picked up this little recipe booklet for me put out by Inter-Rhône and I thought it would be fun to pick a couple of recipes to try and then see how each of the wines worked with them.


 
I chose a mushroom terrine with grape compote and a braised pork dish flavored with preserved lemon and rosemary. I made a meal out each and served the dishes with the wines over two nights, however, these were originally intended to be an appetizer and a main dish respectively. I’ve adapted each bit from the original. Here’s a little about each and how they worked with the wines.

 

Mushroom Terrine with Grape Compote and Cheese

 

While this is written as a terrine, which is certain to be the more elegant presentation, I kind of prefer the creamier texture of pâté, and you can easily go either way with this recipe. For the pâté-like texture (which is the direction I went), just use an immersion blender on the mushrooms, or run them through the blender. 
 
While the grape preparation is referred to as a compote, the grapes actually retained their shape fairly well, so they're more like glazed grapes. To turn this into a complete meal, I served it with a salad and sourdough bread I’d baked. I also had some Moses Sleeper cheese – a creamy, bloomy rind cheese that’s just a little funkier than a basic brie-style IMHO – so I included it in the spread.

  • Greg and I agreed that the rosé was the MVP in this spread. Regardless of the composition of the bite, it seemed to work quite well.
  • The red was the runner up. It worked with the mushrooms and wasn’t too bad with bites involving the cheese or even the compote, which could be tricky at times due to its sweetness.
  • The white version worked solidly well with bites that had mushrooms and cheese, as well as with the salad. It definitely did not work with the grape compote.

 

Braised Pork with Preserved Lemon, Rosemary, and Fennel



I love the flavor components in this dish, however, preserved lemon is an intense flavor and I shouldn’t have used as much as the recipe indicated. The way it was, it kind of took over, particularly in the leftovers after the flavors had sat together overnight. I’ve written it here the way I should’ve made it, with the quantity drastically reduced, as well as making a couple of other adjustments. My grocery store also didn't have pork loin, as requested by the recipe (and it would've been my preference), so I had to adjust for tenderloin. I give instructions for both below. I served it all with Israeli couscous and a salad.
  • The overall winner was the white CdR. It was refreshing with the pork and the food resonated well with the lemon and herb flavors in the wine.
  • Greg and I were split on the other two wines. I preferred the rosé, which I thought was refreshing, and matched the weight of the food. Greg felt it brought out a melon note in the wine that he didn’t care for.
  • He preferred the red as a close runner up, and the choice was particularly close for bites that were predominantly pork. I have to say that I was surprised – I didn’t expect the red to work with the flavors in the dish at all, and I had to agree that it wasn’t half bad.
To me, there is a floral note in fennel, and in turn, the dish brought out the floral notes in each of the wines. 
 

Mushroom Terrine with Grape Compote
Print

Mushroom Terrine with Grape Compote

By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson, Adapted from recipe by Inter-Rhône
Prep Time: 15 MinCooking Time: 45 Mininactive time: 8 HourTotal Time: 9 Hour

Ingredients:

For the Mushroom Terrine
  • 1.5 to 1.75 lbs of mixed mushrooms (The original recipe recommends porcini and a couple of different types of chanterelles. I used a mix of various kinds including a high percentage of cremini.)
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 3 shallots, finely diced
  • 3 to 4 garlic, finely diced
  • 1 bunch of parsley, chervil, or half a bunch of each, chopped
  • 5 sprigs tarragon (or substitute in 1 tsp dried), chopped
  • 1 cup cream
  • 1 packet of gelatin
  • Salt, to taste
  • Pepper, to taste
For the Grape Compote
  • 2 Tbsp butter
  • 1 Tbsp vinegar
  • 1 Tbsp sugar
  • 1 lb grapes, rinsed and dried (The original recipe recommends Muscat or Chasselas, but I used regular red table grapes here.)

Instructions:

For the Mushrooms
  1. Rinse mushrooms, trim off the woody ends of any mushrooms that have them, then slice up mushrooms.
  2. Sweat shallots in the olive oil in a large pan over medium/medium-high heat until beginning to turn translucent, then add in the garlic and continue to cook for about 30 seconds. Add in the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. As the mushrooms begin to release cooking juices, spoon out about ¼ cup of the juices, and set aside. Cook the mushrooms until they’ve softened and the majority of the remaining liquid has been cooked off.
  3. Optional: For a terrine with a creamier, paté-like texture, blend the mushroom with an immersion blender (or regular blender).
  4. Sprinkle the gelatine in the reserved mushroom liquid and let stand for 1 minute. Add the mushroom-gelatine mix to a small saucepan along with the cream, whisking until the gelatin is fully dissolved, then reduce the liquid by about ⅓ over medium-high heat.
  5. Add the mushroom-cream sauce to the mushroom mixture, along with the chopped herbs. Taste and adjust seasoning. Pour the mixture into a terrine dish or small casserole dish. Weigh the terrine down with a board or a plate. Store in the fridge and allow to set for at least 8 hours.
For the Grape Compote
  1. Melt butter in a deep pan, then add in the vinegar, sugar, and grapes. Toss everything to dissolve the sugar and coat the grapes well. Cook for about 5 minutes, then set aside to cool.
  2. Serve the terrine and with the grape compote.
https://www.sommstable.com/2020/09/all-colors-of-cotes-du-rhone-with-famille-perrin.html
mushrooms, terrine, pate
appetizer
French
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator

 

 

pork, braise, fennel
dinner
French
Servings: 4 to 5
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson, Adapted from recipe by Inter-Rhône
Print
Braised Pork with Preserved Lemon, Rosemary, and Fennel

Braised Pork with Preserved Lemon, Rosemary, and Fennel

Prep Time: 10 MinCooking Time: 60 MinTotal Time: 1 H & 10 M
Serve with a side of Israeli couscous as shown here, potatoes, or rice.

Ingredients:

  • 2 to 2.5 boned pork loin or tenderloin (however, note the two will require different cooking times)
  • 1 to 2 Tbsp butter
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil
  • Juice of 1 to 2 lemons
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 Tbsp honey
  • 6 sprigs rosemary
  • 6 bulbs fennel, quartered
  • 1 preserved lemons, sliced
  • Salt, to taste
  • Ground pepper, to taste

Instructions:

  1. Heat butter and oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add the pork and brown on all sides, then place on a separate plate and set aside.
  2. Reduce the heat in the pan to low, then add garlic and cook until it’s beginning to turn fragrant and lightly golden (1 to 2 minutes), then add in the honey, lemon juice, sprigs of rosemary, and 6 oz of water. Stir to combine, allow the mixture to come to a boil, then immediately reduce to a simmer. Add in the fennel and the preserved lemons, along with a generous pinch of salt and pepper.
  3. If you’re working with a pork loin, add it back to the pot now, cover, and cook over very gentle heat for 50 mintues to 1 hour 15 minutes (the final internal temperature should be between 145° F medium-rare) and 165°F for medium to medium well). If you’re working with pork tenderloin, the cooking time will be at the lower range of this, about 50 minutes.
  4. When the pork is cooked through to the desired temperature and the fennel is tender, remove from the pot. Taste and adjust seasoning. Allow the pork to rest for about 5 minutes, then slice and serve with the fennel and lemons and a little jus spooned on top.
https://www.sommstable.com/2020/09/all-colors-of-cotes-du-rhone-with-famille-perrin.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator




*****
Check out these previous posts and recipes related to the Rhône:
  •  A Simple Spring Lamb Feast with Maison Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage 
  • Cooking to the Wine: Les Vins de Vienne Gigondas with Gratinéed Shepherd's Pie  
  • Cooking to the Wine: Clos de Trias Ventoux with Bacon-Cheddar-Teriyaki Burgers  
  • 5 Nights of Rasteau  
  • 8 & $20: Braised Lamb Shanks and Lentil Stew  
  • 8 & $20: Ham Steaks with Peach-Tomato Succotash
  • A Wine & Cheese Night #MadeinFrance
  • French Wine 101 Cheat Sheet 
 And for a bonus pairing idea,  I've found that CdR Blancs tend to be quite good with Asian cuisines that aren't super spicy,  like this one from Guigal we had with Laotian take-out.

View this post on Instagram

#TakeoutTuesday: #ChampaGarden is one of our favorite local spots – the rice ball salad is always a go-to and I love the fried wrapped spring rolls! A bottle of @domaineguigal #cotesdurhoneblanc made a delicious pairing with recent dinner ordered in. . If you can, be sure to support your local restaurants during this difficult time.

A post shared by Nicole Ruiz Hudson, DipWSET (@nibblinggypsy) on Apr 21, 2020 at 12:49pm PDT


 
*****
 
The rest of the French Winophiles blogging group are exploring various aspects of Côtes du Rhône, hosted by Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla. If you happen to see this post early enough, join our twitter chat at 8am Pacific Saturday 9/19/20 by following the hashtag #Winophiles.
  • A Côtes du Rhône from Franck Balthazar and A Deconstructed Pairing by Robin on Crushed Grape Chronicles
  • A Côtes du Rhône Tasting by Payal on Keep the Peas
  • All the Colors of Côtes du Rhône with Famille Perrin by Nicole on Somm's Table
  • A Trio of Côtes du Rhône Pairings by Cam on Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • A Window Into Chateau-Neuf-Du-Pape Through Maison M. Chapoutier by Susannah on Avvinare
  • Back on the Rhône Again by Cristy.
  • Beef Tongue Stew with a Côtes du Rhône Gigondas by Wendy on A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • Côtes du Rhône and Clearwater Camping: Charcuterie in God’s Country by Terri on Our Good Life
  • Côtes du Rhône: Essential French Wines by Jill Barth on L’Occassion
  • Lamb Meatballs Paired with Côtes du Rhône by Jane Niemeyer on Always Ravenous
  • Leaning Savory with a 2016 Alain Jaume Côtes du Rhône by Linda Whipple on My Full Wine Glass
  • Rhone Roam #3: Crozes-Hermitage Is Syrah, Condrieu Equals Viognier Paired with Fall Fish #Winophiles by Gwendolyn Alley at Wine Predator
  • Rhône Wine with Brisket by David Crowley at Cooking Chat
  • Turkey Does the Côtes du Rhône by Andrea Lemiux at The Quirky Cork
  • What the Heck is Côtes du Rhône Villages? by Mel at Wining with Mel
 
Additional sources used for this post and further reading:
Wine Enthusiast: What is Côtes du Rhône?
WineFolly: The Guide to Côtes-du-Rhône Wine w/ Maps 
The Oxford Companion via JancisRobinson.com  
Wine-searcher.com 
Vino Vest: Cotes du Rhône (History, Top Wines, Prices, How to Buy) 
 
 
This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.
 

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Somm's Table 2017