Today I invite you to join me for lunch and tasting in Tuscany. Specifically, we’re heading to Fattoria dei Barbi, a family-owned winery with centuries of history. Before we get into the tasting, we should probably have a base in our stomachs for the wines, so we’ll stop into their Taverna to grab a bite to eat. Then we’ll tour the historic winery, and finish our visit by tasting through their offerings. Sound good? Let’s go!

Fattoria dei Barbi was our first stop in Montalcino when Greg and I visited in the fall of 2018. We’d just driven up from Rome and it was nice to be able to decompress from the drive with lunch before heading into the tour and tasting.   

Let’s quickly recap what Brunello is all about. 

Map borrowed from WineFolly.com

Brunello di Montalcino 5 Fact Cheat Sheet

Montalcino

We’ve visited Montalcino and its incredibly celebrated wine several times on this blog, so please check out this post for a little more background on the region and city, and this post for a look at the region’s soils and how they affect the flavors of the wine, but here are some basics on this famous Tuscan wine that commands the big bucks.  

• Sangiovese is the star grape, as is the case through most of Tuscany. Brunello must be made from 100% Sangiovese and Sangiovese Grosso is the clone(s) the area is known for. Brunello is a diminutive form of the word bruno ("brown") and was the name that was given to the grape locally before it was known to be Sangio. 
• Montalcino is the town. Your clue is the di which means “from.” It’s a beautiful hilltop town with vineyards that spread out all around it. I highly recommend visiting if you ever have the chance. 
• There are aging requirements. Brunellos are aged for at least four years, with a minimum of two years in wood, and four months in bottle prior to release. Riserva wines get an extra year in bottle for a total of five, and six months in bottle prior to release. This aging process is part of the reason the wines are so pricey – having the space to store and age the wines is expensive. Even with all that aging before release, Brunellos can age for a very long time and might take quite a few years before they hit their peak. (Although, in comparison to Napa, they're not such a bad deal especially when you consider everything that goes into making them.)
• They’re big and bold. These wines tend to be full-bodied with lots of acidity and pronounced tannins. They’re flavorful wines with a mix of red and black fruits with sour black cherry notes, espresso, leather, licorice, and there are also often earthy and herbal notes mixed in.
• Bold recognizes bold. Pair these wines with rich, meaty dishes and dishes driven by umami flavors like braised meats and savory stews.

Montalcino

Bonus Points: Rosso di Montalcino is your less pricey alternative. These wines are also made from Sango, but the wines in this classification undergo a lot less aging time  – one year with only six months in oak. The regulations are also a little more relaxed and the wines are often made from fruit from younger vines. Altogether, they display a fresher style and are a lot less expensive.

Pro Tip: Decant  . . . or don’t.  I find these wines usually benefit from decanting, and I like to give them time to breathe after opening. I will note though that not everyone agrees on this point, and some prefer to see how the wine develops in the glass over the course of the evening. 

We’ve taken a closer look at the soils of the region before, as I mentioned, but this series of soils displayed at Fattoria dei Barbi does a nice job of summarizing what you’ll find in the region.

Fattoria dei Barbi

This is one of those wineries that makes you realize just how short our own winemaking history is here in the US. Fattoria dei Barbi is owned by the Colombini family who has owned land in Montalcino since 1352. They were Sienese nobility and had an active in local government since around the year 1,000 CE. Once they arrived in Montalcino, they built the Poggio alle Mura (now owned by Castello Banfi), later the Villa Argiano, and finally founded Fattoria dei Barbi in 1790, where they’ve been making wine ever since. The estate is currently owned and managed by Stefano Cinelli Colombini, representing the 20th generation of the family.

Family timeline.

Fattoria dei Barbi is one of the oldest producers of Brunello di Montalcino and is only one of five producers in Montalcino that have continuously operated for over 100 years. Moreover, along with the Biondi-Santi family (who have the honor of having made the first Brunello), they were integral in building the wine’s prestigious reputation. Their current holdings extend over 350 hectares of fields and vineyards in Montalcino, Scansano, and Chianti. The name of the estate is derived om “Barbo,” a reference to the seashell fossils found throughout the vineyards

The Colombini family’s philosophy has always been to know and understand the most current and innovative wine technology, and then find ways to marry this with the best traditional techniques. As such, included in their long history, their website boasts an impressive list of firsts and innovations in both areas of business and production through the years:

• 1817 - the first firm in Montalcino to export bottled wine to France.
• 1832 - the first to sell Brunello by mail order.
• 1962 - the first to export it to America, followed by England (1969), and Japan (1975). 
• 1974 - It created the first single-varietal grappa (Grappa di Brunello). 
• In the 1960s the estate was a pioneer in using organic fertilizers, in the 1990s it created the first “artificial nose” for analyzing wine, and in 2000 was one of the first to use carbon dioxide for cold fermentation of red wines.
• They were also one of the first local producers to encourage agro-tourism. They now receive 17K visitors per year.

They focus on low yields in the vineyards and strict grape selection, often opting to declassify around 40% of the vintage to Rosso di Montalcino. Their average yields are less than 1.5 kg of grapes per vine, which means that each vine produces only just a little more than one bottle of wine. In addition, no irrigation is used on the vines for their DOC and DOCG wines.  In total, their current annual production is about 800,000 bottles, of which more than 200,000 are Brunello.

Taverna dei Barbi

Since the winery was one of the first to encourage agro-tourism, visitors were being welcomed at Fattoria dei Barbi over fifty years ago. Many people asked to accompany their tastings with something to eat. The Taverna was created to meet the demand and they offer a selection of regional dishes characteristic of Montalcino. 

The Taverna has a really homey vibe with stone walls, wood beams, and a large fireplace and hearth space at the center. It’s a lovely and comfortable space. However, I’ll admit that we found the dishes to be a little hit and miss. Still, I was hungry after the drive and was happy to be able to land directly at the property, rather than having to search around for another place to have lunch. The dishes were also very representative of the region, as promised.

Since we were about to taste through lots of big reds, we decided to enjoy a glass of their Vermentino with our meal, but I think a lot of these styles of dishes would work well with many of the wines. 

Eventhough it’s a simple dish, and never the prettiest one at that, I love crostini with chicken liver spread. It was one of the highlights for me. 

I was excited about the idea of the “Old Tuscan-style beans cooked in a flash with sage and Extravirgin Olive Oil placed in a corner of the fireplace,” partly because their version was apparently based on a historical local recipe. Sadly, we found them to be underseasoned and lacked flavor. 

This was our first encounter with pici/pinci pasta, the thick hand-rolled spaghetti that is typical of Tuscany. These were covered in a duck ragú. It was a solid, tasty dish, although I would have liked it to be a bit more ducky –– I like gamey flavors. Nonetheless, a happy friendship started right here. 

The pappardelle with porcini mushrooms was another favorite dish. Simple and delicious. 

Their website notes that they are currently open and operating under COVID protocols. While the menu has been updated, I believe versions of all of these dishes currently appear to be listed. You can also find a sample menu on the site.

The Tour & Tasting

After lunch, we had a chance to tour the cellars, which is an excellent way to get a grasp of the history of Brunello in general, as well as that of the winery itself.

Barrels at Fattoria dei Barbi. You might notice the coat of arms at the top. The family earned it in 1200. It is made up of four little doves painted on a blue field and was originally separated by a golden cross. With the years the cross disappeared, but the doves remain.

There are bottles in the winery dating back to the late 1800s. Older wines are checked for quality every 20 years or so. They're opened through a vacuum system and topped off as needed. All of their bottles after 1950 are still drinkable.

The humidty in the cellars is kept at around 80% to best preserve the wines.

Bottles, bottles everywhere. I love the look of old bottles.

Once our tour wrapped up, we had a chance to taste some of the offerings. Here’s what we sipped:

Brusco di Barbi 2016 IGT

This vintage wine was 90% Sangio with the remaining 10% being made up of Merlot. The vineyard for this wine are in Scansano, which has cooler nights thanks to proximity to the sea. Soils here are stony and mixed with sand. This wine is macerated for a fairly long time but sees no time in oak for a fresher style. 

Nose: Lilacs, strawberry, pomegranate, potpourri.

Palate: Notes of tomato leaf and strawberry leather join the party.

Pairings recommended by the winery: Versatile wine, it goes well with white meats, cold cuts, spicy sauces, not too seasoned cheeses, and traditional pizza.

Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2016

In general, the vineyards designated for this wine are on the younger side, about 5 to 10 years old. However, a portion of the grapes come from vineyards designated for Brunello that are declassified and used in the Rosso.  Soils for this, as well as the Brunello and the Riserva are dominated by gravel and clay soils and produce wines with power, while more sandy soils heighten aromatics. 

Nose: Lots of herbs, particularly medicinal herbs, cherry, strawberry, hints of salami. 

Palate: Very bright sour cherry and licorice join in the mix. 

Pairings recommended by the winery: ​​Perfect with roasted or grilled white and red meats, cheeses, and pan-fried dishes.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 (Blue Label) 

This is their flagship wine and they’ve been producing it since 1892. Vineyards designated for this wine are generally between 10 to 25 years old. The grapes are hand-harvested. The wine is aged in Slavonian oak.

Nose: More pronounced aging notes are present notes on this one, as is to be expected. Leather, forest floor, tobacco, savory pasta sauce herbs, tomato paste. 

Palate: Strawberry, pomegranate, red plum, orange peels, spice, a little dust. Well-structured with bright acidity. There’s a pretty quality to the fruit, and the savory tones add depth. 

Pairings recommends by the winery: Dishes rich in flavor such as stewed red meats or game, grilled or mixed roasts. Tasty and well seasoned hard cheeses.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2012 (Red Label)

Vines for the riserva are between 25 to 40 years old, but it’s only made in extraordinary years. Grapes are hand-harvested and the wine is aged in Slavonian oak. 

Nose: Meatier on the nose, with tobacco, leather, spice, and cigar box.

Palate: tomato paste, sour cherry, and a little licorice. Even more tertiary aromas, but also more concentration and structure.

Pairings recommends by the winery: Wine for special occasions, it goes well with mixed roasts, braised meats, game, and tasty and well seasoned hard cheeses.

We definitely enjoyed our tasting!

You can find additional details here on touring and tasting at the winery. Additional details on the current vintage of the wines here, as well as on their importer's website here.

We brought back several bottles, so we’ll be seeing them again down the line.

*****

Check out these other posts related to our Italian road trip:

• Exploring Castello di Brolio & On Location Pairings From the Home of Chianti Classico
• Cooking to the Wine: Barone Ricasoli Brolio-Bettino Chianti Classico & an Italian Twist on Pulled Pork  

• Classically Contratto: Beautiful Wines from Italy's Oldest Sparkling Wine House

• Contratto Millesimato and Vitello Tonnato Two Ways

• One Afternoon in Lugana at Podere Selva Capuzza 

• The History of Amarone at Cantina Valpolicella Negrar, and Domìni Veneti Amarone Classico with Decadent, Braised Lamb Shanks    

• The Sweet Side of ILatium Morini: Sette Dame Recioto di Soave Classico with an Old-Fashioned Strawberry Cake 

• Cooking to the Wine: Pezzuoli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro with Antipasto Pizza 

•  Brunello, a Book, and a Boston Butt: Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino with Italian Braised Pork
• An Afternoon at CastelGiocondo
  

• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla pairs Riso Venere Nero + La Palazzetta Brunello di Montalcino 2016.
• Gwendolyn of Wine Predator.....Gwendolyn Alley offers Brunello di Montalcino: Chianti’s Burly Brother Paired with Vegetarian Stuffed Mushrooms .
• Terri of Our Good Life serves up Pumpkin Ravioli with Sausage and Amaretto Cream Sauce and a Not-So-Brunello Wine.
• Linda of My Full Wine Glass suggests Can't Travel to Tuscany? Open a Brunello Instead.
• Katrina of The Corkscrew Concierge tells how Biondi Santi Charts New Paths While Honoring Tradition.
• Susannah of Avvinare discusses Celestino Pecci: A Brunello di Montalcino Producer to Watch.
• Jennifer of Vino Travels raises A Toast to Brunello with Val di Suga.
• Nicole of Somm’s Table is Lunching and Tasting at Fattoria dei Barbi.
• Host Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm declares A Strong Brunello is Perfect with a Venison Meatball Stew.

Tasting the wines of Golden Cluster by Jeff Vejr at Les Caves Wine Bar in  Portland Oregon left my mind bent and my palate absolutely delighted. Here we take a closer look at three of the may wines we tasted, paired with grilled cheese sandwiches!

I love wine tasting. That’s pretty obvious by now. Very rarely, however, does a tasting experience leave my mind bent, flipped, completely turned inside out, and absolutely delighted. That’s how I felt after tasting with Jeff Vejr and his Golden Cluster family of wine brands. 

It was mere happenstance that I ended up on this tasting journey. Greg and I just returned from a road trip around Oregon and Washington. By coincidence, we overlapped for one day with my friend Ron and his girlfriend Amy in Portland. Ron is hands-down my very wine-geekiest friend, and I think that says a lot coming from me, a proud wine geek. He looks at things in very out-of-the-box ways and goes deep into research. (You can read an article he wrote about intersections between Beethoven and wine here.)  We always have a lot of fun drinking and eating together, and I always learn a ton. Such was the case on this particular evening. Ron had made an appointment to taste with Jeff Vejr at Les Caves, the wine bar he co-owns in the Alberta Arts District of Portland. When we realized we’d be overlapping, he arranged for us to join in the fun. And it was A LOT of fun. 

Note: Our tastings were comped, but no other compensation was received and all opinions are my own.

Les Caves Wine Bar

Let’s begin by setting the scene. Les Caves is a cozy little spot located in what was originally the boiler room of the Victoria Theater (1910 -1965). After the theater closed, the building went on to be used by a series of churches of various denominations up through the mid-2000s. Nowadays, if you make your way around back and down a couple of flights of stairs, you’ll find this tiny, elegant, rustic wine bar. 

We were there the weekend before it was due to reopen after Covid, and they’d used the downtime to renovate the space and add a new outdoor area as well, one flight up from the original bar area. 

A Guided Tasting of Golden Cluster Wines Paired with Grilled Cheese Sandwiches

Jeff guided us through an extensive tasting of his wines. We enjoyed the first few wines in the original bar space and then moved up to the new outdoor area for the rest. We got to enjoy them alongside a selection of tasty grilled cheese sandwiches Les Caves has on offer. 

We tried three grilled cheese sandwiches:  - The Alsatian with Muenster, smoked uncured ham, and mustard powder. - The Georgian with mozzarella, adjika paste, and paprika. - The Italian with Provolone, organic roast beef, and Italian seasoning. (Currently, their menu shows a variation of this one called the Bologna with mortadella.)

Every single wine was interesting and enjoyable. It also became clear very quickly that Jeff has an extremely curious mind and each wine was an exploration of grape, clone, historical vineyard site, or experimental technique, and sometimes multiple explorations were all going on at once in a bottle. (It made total sense why Ron was attracted to this spot.) 

Jeff started Golden Cluster in 2013, after visiting David Hill Vineyard & Winery in Forest Grove, where he encountered Semillon vines that were over 48 years old at the time. Semillon was one of his first grape loves, and while he’d been in the process of starting other wine projects, he decided to change tracks to work with those grapes. The name is an homage to the grape, which is known as the “golden” grape and makes “golden” wines in Sauternes. (The name also pays homage to Charles Coury who planted the vineyard in question, but that's a longer story.)

Previously, he’d spent time working at wineries in Europe dealing specifically with old vines. During our visit, he described himself several times as a history buff, and that love of old vines fits right in. He also worked or assisted at various wineries in Oregon and Washington while preparing to start his own project.  In an interview on Les Caves de Pyrene, Jeff gave further background on himself:

I am a 3rd generation American, who was raised in the fiercely independent state of New Hampshire. Growing up on a self-sustaining farm taught me the value of taste, hard work, the beauty of seasons, and an appreciation for the history all around me. These lessons and experiences have culminated in my wine project called Golden Cluster here in Oregon.

Golden Cluster is now actually a group of brands, some with only one or two wines in the line. In a way, each represents a theme of exploration. Those other lines include Coury, Dionystic, Müller?, Olmo, On Wine Hill, Ordeaux, Oregon Brand, Syrahcha, The First Row, and Vinous Obscura. 

Over the course of the evening, we tried about thirteen, and each one was its own special unicorn. There were wines made from rare grapes, some I’d never heard of,  and some made in ways I wouldn’t have thought possible. Jeff mentioned that he takes a lot of inspiration in coming up with new techniques for handling wine from chef friends and techniques they use in the kitchen. A lot of the techniques he described ran in the face of everything I’ve been taught about wine. 

He sometimes finds ways to use grapes that anyone else would consider to be irrevocably flawed . .  . and yet the wines worked. This really spoke to me, as I’m the type of person that finds all kinds of bizarre ways to use things that would typically be considered trash in the kitchen to make new things. (Most people would probably consider my freezer a trash heap from all the bags of random scraps waiting for reincarnation.) He finds a way to make delicious wines with grapes that would be trash or compost and pays the growers that would’ve likely lost income. 

It would be overwhelming for both you and me to spotlight all of those wines and what makes them all bizarre and interesting in one post, so I’m going to limit myself to three wines here. 

Golden Cluster 'COURY' Old Vine Semillon Willamette Valley 2018 

Price:  $28 ABV: 14.24%     Grapes: 100% Semillon

Tasting Notes: Lots of stone fruits, dried flowers, and powdered honey on the nose. The wine was super complex and layered on the palate with more stone fruits some, dried, along with some tropical fruits, ginger, curry powder, and hints of deeper citrus tones like Meyer lemon and orange skin. Despite the nose and honeyed notes, this is a dry wine. In many ways, it reminded me of Savennières, wines from the Loire Valley made from botrytized Chenin Blanc grapes that are vinified to dry. 

Mind-bending Properties:  Grapes that make you go EEEWWW!? 

The grapes come from a historical vineyard with own-rooted vines. Sadly, this particular vintage had a lot of issues. This wine was affected by botrytis late in the season, but that’s not weird for Semillon. In Sauternes and the other sweet wine regions of Bordeaux,  Semillon is prized for its susceptibility to botrytis, or noble rot, which under the right conditions, dries out the grapes and concentrates the flavors and makes them more complex. Noble rot is one thing, but powdery mildew is another thing completely – this is one fungus that is never prized. And yet the grapes for this wine were heavily infected. The lead-in for this wine on the Golden Cluster’s website describes it this way:

A wine that shouldn’t exist, but does.  This 2018 Semillon is an anomaly. It will probably never be repeated.  It is one of my proudest moments as a winemaker, because I did not give up on it. 

Jeff painted a picture of these grapes as they fermented which made them sound like complete sludge. We’re always told that great wines are made in the vineyard and this does not sound like an auspicious start. So what do you do if you have grapes like these but you’re determined to make a wine from them? Wash the lees. I’d never heard of lees washing before, and I believe Jeff told us that he basically made up the name, so I don’t think this technique has spread far beyond Golden Cluster’s doorstep. Basically, he added the lees from completed, clean Muller-Thurgau and Pinot Gris fermentations to the wine and dumped the Semillon lees out, repeating the process twice. He told us that that process changes the porcini mushrooms flavors you would get from the powdery mildew infected grapes and converts them to dried fruit notes. The website also notes that the process “works wonders to damaged fruit without having to result in using any of the 'chemical' solutions often used as a last resort.”  Whatever he did, it worked. This was a beautiful and fascinating wine. 

It was also completely different from the 2019 version of the wine, which did not suffer the same problems. That vintage was more in line with a dry Hunter Valley style Semillion from Australia and was much brighter and lighter on the palate, with stone fruit notes that tended more towards white peach, and the mixed citrus notes had tart hints of grapefruit mixed in.

You can read more about this wine and how it was made here.

Grilled Cheese Pairing: This wine worked with all of the grilled cheese options, but I think the Alsatian was my favorite. 

Vinous Obscura Grand Bazzar Willamette Valley 2019

Price: $25 ABV: 12%    Grapes: 14 unique varieties 

Tasting Notes: Orange skin, honey, honeysuckle, candied grapefruit, and tangerine on the nose. These all continued on the palate, along with dried golden flowers, sumac, turmeric, and hints of game. 

Mind-bending Properties: It's a mysterious, beautiful mess. 

It’s an orange wine made from 14 different grapes (unspecified) all coming from the same vineyard (redacted), some botrytized, made in a dual fermentation. There’s a lot to wrap your head around there. This is another wine that supposedly looked terrible during fermentation, but he didn’t want to quit on it. He decided to handle the aromatic and non-aromatic grapes differently. The aromatic grapes in the mix were left in contact with their skins for 14 days. The non-aromatic grapes did not see skin contact. He compared this to his version of an Arnold Palmer, each half contributing a different aspect to the whole. I do love an Arnold Palmer.

You can read more about this wine and how it was made here.

Grilled Cheese Pairing:  I thought this was absolute magic with the Georgian grilled cheese. 

Vinous Obscura Paint, Dye, or Give Color Saperavi Columbia Gorge 2020

Price: $28 ABV: 13.5%    Grapes:  100% Saperavi

Tasting Notes: This wine was quite aromatic on the nose with hints of orange skin and cinnamon, mixing with fruit notes of grapes and berries, game, pepper, and purple flowers. All of these continued on the palate, with even more spice notes mixing in. Earthy notes of stones and clay hit on the finish. Despite the intensity of aromas and flavors, this was not a heavy wine. It still had plenty of freshness. 

Mind-bending Properties: There’s Saperavi in the US? Oh, and it’s matured in Oregon-made Amphorae. 

I learned a lot about this grape during our conversation. Saperavi is best known as one of the premier grapes of the country of Georgia. Jeff specified that the vineyard these come from (redacted) has the only Saperavi currently planted west of the Mississippi River. I’ve never seen a bottling from the US, period. The vineyard also has all five clones of the grape that are available in the US, four are included in this bottling, as the vines of the fifth are still young, but will be included in the future. 

Jeff mentioned that it is one of the oldest domesticated wine grapes and that it’s only one or two generations removed from the wild. I wasn’t able to confirm this but as Georgia has a claim to one of the oldest winemaking traditions in the world, so it seems like it tracks.

The wine’s name takes inspiration from the grape itself as Saperavi means “dye.” It’s a teinturier grape, which means that it is one of the few red grape varieties that has colored flesh, not just colored skins. As such, it produces deeply colored juice. 

In Georgia, wines are traditionally fermented and matured in qvevri, earthenware vessels shaped kind of like an egg with the narrow side pointed downwards that are intended to be buried in the ground. (Cement eggs are another style of fermentation vessel that has the narrow end pointed upwards. Jeff pointed out that they’re essentially opposites and distribute the lees – as well as grapes skins, stems, and seeds if left in – differently, creating different textures in the wines.) 

The material of the vessel also plays a major role. Clay and cement vessels have a different effect on wine than wood or stainless steel. Among other things, clay is porous so it allows for a small amount of oxygen transfer, unlike stainless steel, but it doesn’t add any overt flavor to the wine the way wood does. 

This American version of Saperavi is fermented in amphorae, which have a shape somewhat similar to qvevri, but with a flat bottom so they can sit on the ground. (Originally, they also all had handles so they could be used for transport.) These amphorae are made in the US, specifically in Oregon, by Andrew Beckham’s Novum Ceramics the first commercial producer of terra cotta Amphorae for winemaking and brewing in North America. These amphorae add an extra layer of terroir, since the vessel comes from the same region as the wine.

You can read more about this wine and how it was made here.

Grilled Cheese Pairing: This was the last wine we had that night, so I only got to have a nibble of it with the Georgian grilled cheese, but in my mind, it would’ve been great with the Italian as well. 

This was such a memorable evening. We arrived at around 7 PM and pulled ourselves out of there after 1 AM, and we could’ve kept on talking and sipping except that it had gotten so late. I highly recommend a stop at Les Caves. While the wine bar has many wines on offer, you’ll typically find at least a couple from the Golden Cluster Lines. 

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