Somm's Table

Perfect pairings from the other side of the equation.

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I generally try to keep politics out of this blog, but I must admit that I was quite euphoric on January 20, 2021. Not just euphoric, but also relieved like a huge weight had begun to lift. As a woman of color living in Oakland, I was also feeling a measure of pride that a woman of color born here had stepped into the vice president’s office. I know many of my friends felt the same way, regardless of their ethnicity. My all-lady tasting group decided to have a zoom party to celebrate the occasion.

We all decided that we’d each make or order in food that celebrated Kamala Harris’ background in some way, and we’d toast with wines that honored her in some way as well. (We also all wore RBG T-shirts I’d bought this small group for the holidays.) I decided I’d make an Indian curry and paired it with a really fresh sparkling wine made by a young black winemaker here in the Bay Area. Funny enough, 3 of the 4 of us on the Zoom call had wines from Bodkin Wines. Bubbles are their calling card, although they do make other styles, and I think most of us really felt that this occasion called for sparklers. (My friend Maura went in a different direction, opting instead for a wine from Rock Wall Wine Company in Alameda since Kamala Harris is a member of their wine club.)

Maura and Adriana joined me in sharing pairings in Three Takes On Theopolis Symphony. Our friend Marlene, who was on this call but was away during this photo, sells Bodkin's wines and arranged for Chris to virtually join our tasting group, although I wasn't able to join that particular meeting.

It was a really joyful celebration, even if we couldn’t get together in person.


BODKIN WINES


The first time I recall one of Bodkin’s wines really getting my attention was at a GuildSomm “Backroads of California” Masterclass in 2017. I don’t think it was the first time I’d had one of their wines, because I know we carried them periodically while I worked at Bay Grape, but at this particular tasting it really stood out to me. Most of the wines we tasted were good, as they’d been carefully selected and even included several favorites, but Bodkin’s Cuvee Agincourt Brut Blanc de Sauvignon Blanc ($25) stood out to me for its verve and its freshness. It was clean, crisp, and fun. The fact that their wines are very reasonably priced has allowed me to continue to enjoy them from time to time.

Bodkin was founded in 2011 by Iowa native Chris Christensen. Per their website, “His passion for aromatic wines and winemaking led him to create America’s first Sauvignon Blanc with bubbles.” Although Chris continues as the winemaker, in 2013 he was joined by Andrew Chambers as “Co-head Honcho,” and now they both live and work in Sonoma County.


Image borrowed from Bodkin's website.

Chris actually joined my tasting group virtually one evening, as last year we occasionally organized zoom tastings with a few winemakers. I sadly had to miss that particular event, which is really too bad as not only do I really enjoys his wines, but I’m also very drawn to the nerdy Shakespeare references all over his website. Specifically, the allusions are to Henry V and “bodkin” refers to the type of arrowhead used by Henry V’s forces in the epic Battle of Agincourt (also the cuvée name of that sparkling Sauv Blanc I mentioned). The company’s motto is “We few, we happy few,” which is a quote from the play’s famous St. Crispin's Day speech, and the red cross that’s the company’s logo is also a reference to the cross Henry’s men wore. I’ll turn down the nerdiness now, but it’s just to say that this all appeals to my Shakspeare-loving, former-English-major heart and I hope to get another chance to meet him.

It’s also clear that he’s a guy with grit and a sense of humor. Chris was featured in San Fransico Chronicle’s 2017 Winemakers to Watch, and the article shares this quote:

I love sparkling wine and I love Sauvignon Blanc, and if that makes me less of a man, so be it,” he laughs. “I grew up biracial in Iowa in the ’80s. I’m secure in who I am.

THE WINE & PAIRING

On Inauguration Day I opened a bottle of Bodkin’s The Fearless Blanc de Blanc ($25). I already had it on hand and it seemed to fit the occasion perfectly. This wine is a blend of  75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Gris, 5% Chennin Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Blanc, with the majority of the grapes coming from Suisun Valley in Solano County, located between San Francisco and Sacramento. The dosage is kept to just  2.5g/L.

To be completely honest, I'm not sure if I purchased this bottle or if I got it from my friend Marlene, who reps these wines. Both have definitely happened, but I suspect this particular wine came from Marlene. I even see Bodkin wines offered fairly regularly offered on Wine.com, at least in CA.

On the nose, the wine showed notes of gold and green apples, lemon, and white flowers. These were joined on the palate by lime and grapefruit notes – a citrus cocktail. It was very refreshing and generally steely, but there was a little roundness in the mid-palate to round things out.

The wine worked very well with my Inauguration Day curry. My dish was basically a blend of two recipes I found on Food & Wine and Indian Healthy Recipes, along with a little improvisation. It was made up of cauliflower, tomatoes, coconut milk and savory spices. I also added shredded chicken, because I happened to have some on hand and welcomed the protein, but it’s definitely not needed if you prefer to go meat-less.


The wine counter balanced the flavors in the food in a nice way, and helped cleanse the palate after each complex, savory bite. 


Curry, Cauliflower
dinner
Indian
Servings: 6 to 8
By: Nicole Ruiz Hudson
Cauliflower Curry

Cauliflower Curry

Prep Time: 10 MinCooking Time: 35 MinTotal Time: 45 Min
This is a very easy curry that comes together quickly. Don’t stress if you don’t have all of these spices. Feel free to omit things or get playful with what you have available., as that’s basically what I've done here. I added shredded chicken because I had some on hand, but it definitely doesn't need it, so feel free to leave it out to go meatless. Similarly, feel free to add potatoes, sweet potatoes, or other vegetables, as well as herbs like cilantro. Serve over rice.

Ingredients

  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 medium head cauliflower (about 1 pound), cut into large florets (about 4 cups)
  • 1 large onion, diced
  • 1 tablespoon ground coriander
  • ½ teaspoon turmeric
  • 1 teaspoon garam masala
  • ¼ teaspoon dried red-pepper flakes
  • ¼ teaspoon asafoetida powder (optional)
  • 1 14.5-oz can diced tomatoes
  • 1 13.5-oz can coconut milk
  • 1 teaspoon salt, or as needed
  • 1 to 2 cups shredded chicken (optional)
  • 1 cup frozen petite peas
  • Cooking oil, as needed
  • (Optional additions: potatoes, cilantro)

Instructions

  1. Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat, then once hot, add the cumin seeds to the dry pan. Toast the seeds until starting to turn fragrant and lightly browned, about 1 minute, shaking the pan often to stir the seeds. Once toasted, move the seeds to a mortar, then roughly crush with a pestle.
  2. In a large deep frying pan, heat the oil over moderate heat. Add the cauliflower and cook, stirring frequently, until the cauliflower starts to soften and brown lightly, about 5 minutes. Transfer the cauliflower temporarily out of the pan. (Alternatively, you can start the cauliflower by roasting it in the oven at 425°F.)
  3. If needed, add more oil to the pan, then add the onions, and sweat until starting to soften and beginning to turn translucent. Add the spices to the pan and stir. Once everything is beginning to turn fragrant, return the cauliflower to the pan, then add the tomatoes, the coconut milk, and the salt and stir well to combine. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, then stir in the shredded chicken (if using) and cook, lightly covered, until everything is tender, about 15 minutes. Add the peas and continue cooking, uncovered, until the peas are tender, about 2 to 5 minutes longer.
  4. Serve the curry over cooked basmati rice.
https://www.sommstable.com/2021/02/an-inauguration-day-toast-with-bodkin-and-cauliflower-curry.html
Did you make this recipe?
Tag @thesommstable on instagram and hashtag it #sommstable
Created using The Recipes Generator


 

*****

The rest of the Wine Pairing Weekend Bloggers (#WinePW) are joining me this Black History Month in Celebrating BIPOC Winemakers & Winery Owners. (You can read my invitation post for this event here.) If you read this post early enough, join us on Twitter tomorrow morning, Saturday, February 13th, at 8 am PT/ 11 am ET and join our discussion by following #WinePW. Be sure to check out the rest of their posts:

  • Truffle Chip-Crusted Goat Cheese Truffles + McBride Sisters Brut Rosé from Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • The Many Talents of John Legend on A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • Family and Wine Go Together for These Black-owned Businesses from My Full Wine Glass
  • Black-Eyed Peas with Collard Greens and Maison Noir OPP by Cooking Chat
  • Where’s Linus Sauvignon Blanc with a Shaved Vegetable Salad, Crostini, and Scallops on Cauliflower Rice Risotto on Crushed Grape Chronicles 
  • A Taste of Theopolis Vineyards from ENOFYLZ
  • Pairing Crab Legs with Carmen Stevens’ Sauvignon Blanc by Our Good Life
  • Meet Cheramie Law: Black, Female, and Founder of Texas’ Cheramie Wine from The Corkscrew Concierge
  • Sipping Wines from the McBride Sisters Black Girl Magic Line by Avvinare
  • Camins 2 Dreams: When a Chumash Winemaker Meets a Spanish One And Sparks Fly from Gwendolyn Alley, Wine Predator
  • And here on Somm’s Table,  I’m sharing An Inauguration Day Toast with Bodkin The Fearless Blanc de Blanc and Cauliflower Curry

 

 


This post contains affiliate links, including these Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.

 

LVE by John Legend Sparkling Rose with Lao food from Champa Garden.

2020 was something. It certainly dealt quite a few blows. I think it also forced us to confront some harsh realities that were overdue. In the midst of the discussions on diversity and racism that have come out of the Black Lives Matter Movement, and discussions on sexism that have come out of the #MeToo movement in the last few years, the wine industry (and the hospitality industry in general) has had to confront the fact that it’s severely deficient in supporting minority populations and women.

Charles Woodson's Intercept Red Blend with A+ Burger.

For my own part, upon reflection, I realized that I can make more of an effort to search out wines from BIPOC winemakers both to enjoy at home and to blog about. I certainly make the effort to look for wines from obscure regions and grapes, and I also actively seek out wines from women winemakers and wineries with women in other key positions, but while I’m Latina myself, I’m confronting that I haven’t done a great job of telling the stories of other BIPOC people in the wine industry. I can do better.

In this spirit, particularly as it’s Black History Month, I’ve asked my fellow Wine Pairing Weekend Bloggers (#WinePW) to join me in Celebrating BIPOC Winemakers & Winery Owners. This week, we’ll be posting stories and pairings with wines from underrepresented groups. We’ll also be gathering on Twitter on Saturday, February 13th at 8 am PT/ 11 am ET to share our finds. Feel free to join us by following #WinePW. Here are the stories we can look forward to:

  • Truffle Chip-Crusted Goat Cheese Truffles + McBride Sisters Brut Rosé from Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • The Many Talents of John Legend on A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • Family and Wine Go Together for These Black-owned Businesses from My Full Wine Glass
  • Black-Eyed Peas with Collard Greens and Maison Noir OPP by Cooking Chat
  • Where’s Linus Sauvignon Blanc with a Shaved Vegetable Salad, Crostini, and Scallops on Cauliflower Rice Risotto on Crushed Grape Chronicles 
  • A Taste of Theopolis Vineyards from ENOFYLZ
  • Pairing Crab Legs with Carmen Stevens’ Sauvignon Blanc by Our Good Life
  • Meet Cheramie Law: Black, Female, and Founder of Texas’ Cheramie Wine from The Corkscrew Concierge
  • Sipping Wines from the McBride Sisters Black Girl Magic Line by Avvinare
  • Camins 2 Dreams: When a Chumash Winemaker Meets a Spanish One And Sparks Fly from Gwendolyn Alley, Wine Predator
  • And here on Somm’s Table,  I’ll be sharing An Inauguration Day Toast with Bodkin The Fearless Blanc de Blanc and Cauliflower Curry


I genuinely can’t wait to read these posts!  In the meantime, I’ll also point you in the direction of Three Takes On Theopolis Symphony, which I shared last summer. Throughout this post, I've also been sharing some of the wines I’ve tried this past year from black winemakers/winery owners.

Theopolis Vineyards Symphony 2017


If you’re interested to discover more of these wines yourself, but you’re not sure how to find them, here are a few articles that have compiled helpful lists on the subject:

  • We’re Drinking a Lot More Wine at Home These Days—Here’s 11 BIPOC-Owned Wine Brands To Support While You’re at It from Well & Good
  • A Global Guide to Black-Owned Wine Labels from Wine Enthusiast
  • 23 Black-Owned Wineries Worth Supporting Right Now on Newsweek
  • Shop Your Next Bottle From These Black-Owned Wine Companies on Refinery 29
  • Black-Owned Wine Brands To Try Out, According To Wine Experts on Huffpost 


There are also more wine stores stepping up to feature these wines, you can also find quite a few on Wine.com – I purchased several here from the site. It's also good to ask, as this shows wine buyers that these wines are in demand and that there's interest.

Bodkin Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc with Ceviche. I'll be featuring another of their wines in my next post.


If you're interested to read more perspectives on this topic and why it's important, here are a few more articles for background:

  • Diversity and Inclusion Efforts Are Key to The American Wine Industry’s Future on VinePair
  • A Voice for Black Winemakers on Wine Spectator
  • A Reckoning on Race at the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas on VinePair 

SevenFifty Daily has been sharing a lot of coverage on the topic. Here are a few articles:

  • How Can We Create More Diverse and Inclusive Workplaces? 
  • Cultivating Diversity and Innovation in the Beverage Workplace 
  • Changing the Game to Make Wine More Diverse 
  • Being Black in the White World of Wine 
  • Building a Culture of Inclusion Is Easier Than You Might Think 

 



Happy New Year!


I’m sure we’re all glad to see 2020 in the rearview mirror. (Although 2021 seems to be off to a more eventful start than ideal.) Despite all the tribulations, we did have some very good moments over the course of the year. A good number of them occurred in Lake Tahoe at the Culinary Cabin. 


I’m sure many of us found different ways to navigate the new world. One of the things that made our year much better than it might have been, were the occasional stretches we spent at the Culinary Cabin with our little pod thanks to our hosts Lucy and Drew. This post, therefore, is a bit of a tribute to them. 


In recent years, Drew has developed a deep love for saké. He also has a deep love for dry-aged steak, and he REALLY loves pairing the two together. One evening during one of our quaranteam trips to Tahoe, he decided to do just that in a rather decadent dinner sharing two particularly good bottles. I admit that I raised skeptical eyebrow at the combo, but hey, I wasn’t about to turn down a good steak and good saké. 

 


Drew prepared the dry-aged ribeye sous vide, then seared it off at the end. Greg served as his sous chef and also prepared his “Potatoes Gregoire,” as we like to call them. I had it easy that night, and just roasted some vegetables as a side. Given the particularly lovely mea, the majority of the group decided to dress up for the event. (Or at least, we dressed up by 2020 shelter-in-place standards.) 

 

Junmai Daiginjo

Both of the bottles were of Junmai daiginjo saké, which is the highest grade of the Japanese rice wine. To qualify for title, Junmai daiginjo saké must be made with grains of rice that have been polished to half their original weight. To help kick off the fermentation process, steamed rice is mixed with kōji-kin (spores of the fungus Aspergillus oryzae, which is also used to make other products like soy sauce and miso). The spores germinate and release enzymes that convert the starches in the rich into glucose. Yeast then turns this glucose into alcohol during fermentation.


Making Junmai daiginjo is a very labor-intensive, not to mention that half the base material is polished away in process, so it’s altogether quite costly to make. There are also strict quality controls involved. Given all of the blood, sweat, and tears that go into it, it’s usually only made in very small quantities and is typically a saké producer’s top tier offering. The style is known for being fragrant and quite delicate, and would typically be paired with similarly delicate foods like sashimi.




Nishide Shuzo Junami Daiginjo 100 Year Saké

Price: Found on various sites for prices ranging between $125 - $200.


Nishide Shuzo, located in the Kaga region, operates with the mantra that “saké brewing is our life.”  They’ve been making handmade sakes with only three employees for five generations. They make this special junmai daiginjo using a unique yeast that was discovered one hundred years ago, giving it the name “100 Year Saké”. This yeast, called kuratsuki kobo (house yeast), only grows within the brewery itself. (saké producers that have been making saké for generations often take pride in their specific yeast.)


The 17th century artwork on the Kutani Yaki porcelain bottle (which is typical of the region) is meant to tell the story that the saké is made using local ingredients. In essence, this is a saké meant to showcase its terroir.


It’s recommended to serve this saké chilled. Pairing recommendations include sushi and dashi rich dishes.


Tasting Notes: Flowers, green melon, peach, cream, and salted lemons. Delicate with a hint of acidity on the finish. 


Shimizu-No-Mai Junmai Daiginjo Saké Pure Night

Price: $109.99


The Takashimizu brewery was established in 1944 when several small family breweries dating back to 1656 in Akita, Japan came together to form one brewery. They took the name “Takashimizu,” in honor of the hill on which the Akita’s castle had once stood. Shimizu-no-mai is their brand line in the U.S. and they have several different Pure Sakés, with the Pure Night being the top tier. 


Akita is a mountainous region with cold winters, and the water they use for their saké sourced from the point where three rivers carrying this cold mountain water meet and is very pure. They use an artisanal rice, and 65% of the rice is polished away for this bottling, rather that the required 50% described above, with the intent of creating a particularly delicate flavor profile. 


It’s recommended to serve this saké alone or with very delicate foods, as most foods would overpower this saké, masking the feather-light aromatics and flavors. Recommended pairings include sashimi or oysters with caviar.


Tasting Notes: A layer of minerality unfolds with sweet flowers like honeysuckle, green melon, citrus, lychee, and touches of light green herbs.

 

 

 

 

As I mentioned at the top, I was a little skeptical at the steak pairing. For one thing, I typically prefer sakes like these with more delicate fare, inline with those recommended by both of these breweries. I was imagining scallop crudo or sashimi while I sipped these, and those oysters sound heavenly.


For another thing, I just really love a big red wine with steak. I know I so often go on and on about how light to medium bodied red wines tend to be the easiest reds to pair, and that’s true, but steak is one of the places I definitely like to bust out the big and the bold! I think I felt like I was missing the opportunity to open one here. 


Ultimately, despite his enthusiasm, I don’t think Drew completely convinced me to put aside the the big reds with future steaks. However, these were both gorgeous sakés (big thanks to Drew for sharing them!) and I will say that they did work much better than I'd expected, particularly the Pure Night. Our friend Selin (one of the other members of our little pod) noted that it resonated with the pepper on the steak and highlighted the flavor, and I agreed with her there. I also thought both sakés worked nicely with the roasted vegetables, in particular the zucchini. So if you're looking for something a little different to go with a steak, particularly if you're accompanying it with veggie sides, saké could be a really fun alternative pairing.

 


 

If all of this weren’t already decadent enough, Lucy made this show-stopper of a cake to finish the meal. I guarantee, it was absolutely as good as it looks, if not better. I’m craving another slice all over again as I look at this picture!


*****

For more saké pairing inspo check out Saké Pairing Party.

*****

The rest of the Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) blogging group is exploring Saké and Other Pairings for Asian Food as led by Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla. If you see this early enough, feel free to join our chat on Twitter at 8 a.m. on Janurary, 9, 2021 by following #WinePW. 
 
Be sure to check out the rest of the group's posts:  

  • An Affordable and Aromatic Gewürztraminer Paired with Thai Red Curry by Crushed Grape Chronicles
  • Asian Appetizers Paired With Tozai Sake by A Day in the Life on the Farm
  • Cashew Chicken With A Crisp Riesling by Our Good Life
  • Ground Pork Stir Fry with Collard Greens by Cooking Chat
  • Knocking off CPK While Sipping SMV Riesling by Exploring the Wine Glass
  • Japanese Sake and Octopus Salad by Avvinare
  • Our Osechi Ryori おせち料理 (Japanese New Year’s Food), Other New Year's Eve Traditions, + Recent Saké Explorations by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
  • Rosé with Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup by The Quirky Cork
  • Steak and Saké Night at the Culinary Cabin by Somm's Table
  • Sushi and Wine? Totally Fine! Here's a Few to Try in 2021 by Wine Predator
  • Tio Pepe Fino Sherry and Sushi/Sashimi: A Match Made in Heaven! by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog

  

Additional sources used for this post:

  • Wine-searcher.com
  • Tippsysake.com 
  • Unionsquarewines.com 
  • Grandwinecellar.com 

 

This post contains affiliate links, including these Amazon Associate links, from which I might receive a commission at no cost to you.

 



Vinho Verde is one of my absolute favorite summer wines.


I cannot think of a more perfect beverage for the season. Here are just a few reasons I think it should be in everyone’s summer bottle rotation:

  • It’s super refreshing.
  • Most tickle your tongue with a hint of fizz.
  • It pairs beautifully with fresh summer fare.
  • It tends to be low in alcohol, which makes it perfect for sipping in the afternoon sun without gonking you out.
  • It’s usually very easy on the wallet, so you can crack open bottles freely and keep the wine flowing.
Map courtesy of Wines of Portugal.

Vinho Verde is a wine region in northwestern corner of Portugal in the province of Minho. The name Vinho Verde means “green wine,” but it's a reference to the wine's youth, not its color, thanks to the fact that wines are bottled pretty quickly after harvest – within 3 to 6 months. The wines often have a characteristic hint of fizz – not so much to be considered full-on sparkling, but just enough that you can feel it. Originally, this fizz was the result of the wine being bottled so quickly after fermentation that there was still a bit of C02 left in the wine, but nowadays winemakers typically add a bit to the wine as it’s being bottled.

The other likely possible origin of the name is that it could be referring to the color of the region itself, as it is quite verdant indeed. (However, the youthfulness of the wine is the more consistently cited origin of the name Vinho Verde that I've seen.) It’s right on the Atlantic coast and is boarded by the River Minho to the north, on the country's border with Spain, and stretches past the River Douro to the south. It has a cool, maritime climate that is quite rainy, which results in a lush green landscape. 


Photo courtesy of Wines of Portugal.


Despite the beautiful, fertile look of the land, it can actually be tricky to grow grapes well here. Grape vines don't really like a lot of moisture – it can make them over-productive and causes a lot of problems like mold, mildew, rot, and other diseases. Vines in Vinho Verde are often trained upward on Pergola systems, which help guard against the problems all the moisture brings, by allowing the vines to catch the breezes. It also helps farmers make the most of their land, which tends toward small plots, by increasing the density of the vines. Alternatively, many modern vineyards, particularly those with bigger estates, will instead train their vines along wires that help the grapes ripen by soaking in as much sun as possible whenever it makes an appearance.

Here are a few more basics for getting to know the region:

  • The region is best known for its white wines, however, they also make rosé and red wines, although they tend to be harder to find. Full-on sparkling wines are also permitted as of 1999. The region also makes brandy.
  • Vinho Verde wines are typically blends. There are recommended grapes, as well as a wider set of permitted white and red grapes. Each grape brings a different aspect to the blend. For example, Alvarinho, which is highly prized brings minerality, finesse, and fragrance. Loureiro is known for being quite aromatic. The recommended grapes are as follows: 
    • White: Alvarinho, Arinto, Avesso, Azal, Batoca, Loureiro, and Trajadura. Varietal Alvarinho wines are also made in the subregions Melgaço and Monção 
    • Red: Amaral, Azal Tinto, Borraçal, Brancelho, Espadeiro, Padeiro, Pedral, Rabo de Ovelha and Vinhão
  • The region is divided into nine subregions within the DOC of Vinho Verde, which are named after rivers or towns. They are: Monção, Melgaço, Lima, Basto, Cávado, Ave, Amarante, Baião, Sousa and Paiva. Different subregions have particular characteristics and might focus on different grapes depending on their particular climatic variations.

Greg and I spent a brief but wonderful few days in Portugal in 2013, along with one of my besties, Antonella. We didn’t make it to Vinho Verde, but we certainly drank some bottles. Here’s one bottle from Quinta da Aveleda with a seafood spread.
Scenes from a lunch in Lisbon.

 

While these wines are quite versatile, they are particularly wonderful with seafood. This trip to Portugal and Spain also showed us the possibilities of what good tinned fish can be, and we’ve sought out the good versions ever since. These can be particularly nice to have around during the summer when you don’t really feel like slaving away in front of a hot stove.

 

THE FOOD


We’ve recently made our way down to San Diego to see Greg’s parents and we decided to share an easy seafood spread with them combining one dish using tinned fish, and another involving very light cooking, with a line-up of Vinho Verde wines for a little comparative tasting. 



I took inspiration from Chef George Mendes’ My Portugal cookbook for the dishes. The first was a very easy tomato and onion salad with good tinned tuna and herbs. (Adapted below.) You could just as easily swap in another favorite tinned fish option. The next dish involved clams simply cooked in a mixture of garlic, cilantro, and Vinho Verde. (How perfect is that?!) I found it reprinted here. The only change I made was to add shallots in alon. Altogether, everything took these dishes took less than an hour to put together. 


Finally, I know the Portuguese highly value a good loaf of bread, so baked a simple round of sourdough using a sourgdough version of the No-Knead Bread recipe. (Such a fan of this recipe for its really high ROI! So good for very little work.)




THE WINES


We opened three bottles to compare. We enjoyed all three, all were very refreshing, and they all went very well with the food. However, we definitely had a favorite – and on this occasion, we were all in agreement! The best part is that the prices for these wines topped out at about $13, so it’s pretty hard to go wrong. 





Quinta de Raza ‘Raza’ Vinho Verde 2019


The unanimous group favorite!

Quinta da Raza is a family-owned winery located in the subregion of Basto in the Tamega River Valley with mountains to the west. This river runs northeast to southwest, which is unusual as all the other rivers in the region run from east to west. These factors all help reduce the influence of the Atlantic winds, resulting in a comparatively less rainy microclimate. Bottom line, these vines get more time in the sun than many others in Vinho Verde.

We definitely could taste that sunshine in this wine as it had a rounder mouthfeel and had riper fruit notes than the other two wines. Flowers, pears, apples, and citrus notes greeted us on the nose. On the palates, we found the characteristic light Vinho Verde spritz, followed bu bright lemon, grapefruit, and tangy peach. It had juicy acidity with flavor that really popped in the mouth.

When sipped with the food, the wine brought out a fleshy, meaty quality in the clams, and elevated the herbal notes on the tuna dish is a nice way.


Blend: Arinto, Azal, Trajadura
Alc: 11.5%
Soils: Granite with areas of schist and clay.
Farming: Sustainable
Winemaking: Stainless steel fermentation.
Average price: $11. Purchased for $13 at Bay Grape.
Additional details here and here.
 

Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde 2019


This is one of the more easily available and reliable brands around. They’re actually the biggest exporter of Vinho Verde in Portugal. The company has been owned by the Guedes family for 5 generations, since its founding in 1870. Today, the company is run by António Azevedo Guedes and Martim Guedes. In addition to Vinho Verde, the company also produces wines in the Douro and Bairrada.

This was the stoniest of the three wines. It showed white flowers on the nose, along with notes of green apple and lime. All notes continued on the palate, along with hints of herbs on the finish. It was light and crisp and worked like a squeeze of lemon with the food.

Blend: Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura and Aza
Alc: 9.5%
Soils: Granite and sand.
Farming: Sustainable.
Average Price: $9 (Can’t quite recall where I bought this one.)
Additional details here. 



Broadbent Vinho Verde NV


This is a project from wine expert and importer Bartholomew Broadbent, son of wine critic Michael Broadbent. Broadbent Selections imports a variety of wines from different places where they work with partners in the respective regions to create the wines. For his Vinho Verde, the goal stated on the website is “to produce the most reliable and traditional of all Vinho Verdes and to resolve the usual whine that Vinho Verde never tastes like it tastes in Portugal.”  It’s made as a NV wine and is produced at Quinta de Azevedo in the Barcelos commune using grapes from a variety of partner growers. They ship the wines in refrigerated containers to help preserve freshness. I tend to find them widely available at stores like Whole Foods (where I purchased this bottle) and on Wine.com. They’re easily recognizable from their colorful labels and tend to hover around $10.

This wine was crisp, clean, direct, and fresh, mostly focusing on the primary fruit notes of grapefruit, lemon, and green apple. It was generally the second favorite in the group.

Blend: 50% Loureiro, 40% Trajadura, & 10% Pedernã
Alc: 9%
Average price: $9. Purchased for about that Whole Foods, and also available at Wine.com .
Additional details here. 
 

Salad
Seafood
Portuguese
Servings: 4
Adapted by: Nicole Ruiz Hudson from recipe by George Mendes in My Portugal
Print
Tuna, Tomato, and Onion Salad

Tuna, Tomato, and Onion Salad

Ingredients:

  • 2 lbs heirloom tomatoes in a mix of sizes and colors
  • 1 medium white onion, very thinly sliced
  • Sherry and/or date vinegar, to taste
  • 8 ounces good-quality tuna packed in olive oil
  • Fresh oregano, chopped, 2 Tbsp or to taste
  • Thyme or lemon thyme leaves, 2 Tbsp or to taste
  • Extra-virgin olive oil, to taste
  • Salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground pepper, to taste
  • Maldon sea salt or fleur de sel, to taste

Instructions:

  1. Core the tomatoes and cut into slices or halve in the case of smaller tomatoes. Place tomatoes in a bowl. Salt liberally and set aside for at least 10 minutes.
  2. Place the onion slice in a bowl and douse liberally with vinegar and sprinkle with salt. Set aside for at least minutes.
  3. Arrange the tomatoes and onions on a platter. Break the tuna into chunks and sprinkle over the vegetables along with some of its oil.
  4. Sprinkle the herbs over the tuna and vegetables. Drizzle additional sherry vinegar and olive oil over the platter to taste. Top with freshly ground pepper and finish with Maldon sea salt.
https://www.sommstable.com/2020/08/vinho-verde-and-simple-seafood-feast.html
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Created using The Recipes Generator
 
For a dish like this it really pays to use a really good quality tinned fish. On this occasion, I used this version from Olasagasti, which I admit is a little pricey. Typically, I would probably use something along the lines of this one by Tonnino.




For another option, check out this 8 & $20: Tuna Steaks with Tomato-Basil Orzo.
And for a Portuguese red, see  Cooking to the Wine: Passagem Douro Reserva with Spiced Wine Braised Octopus. 
 
Here's one more pairing idea for Vinho Verde (added after the fact). We recently also had a bottle of Gazela Vinho Verde  paired with spicy seafood and veggie takeout from our favorite Sichuan place. Spicy foods can be tricky to pair, but this wine worked because the low alcohol level didn't feed the burn, and the crisp citrus flavors and hint of fizz refreshed the palate.
 

View this post on Instagram

A recent #takeouttuesday from #spices3 of lots of Sichuan seafood paired w @gazelawine #vinhoverde. Vinho Verde is one of my very favorite summer wines and this week I’ve been exploring them over on @thesommstable. Check it out at https://bit.ly/2Cen8ba. (Link also in the Somm’s Table bio) . . . . .

A post shared by Nicole Ruiz Hudson, DipWSET (@nibblinggypsy) on Aug 11, 2020 at 10:21pm PDT


 

*****
 
The rest of the Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) is exploring the wines of Vinho Verde this month, hosted by Cindy of Grape Experiences. Be sure to check out the rest of the group's posts:
  • Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares Foods from Around the World Paired with Pink Wines from Portugal. 
  • Liz of What’s In That Bottle? is thrilled with Va Va Va Vinho Verde: the Portuguese White That Wows. 
  • Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles answers What is Vinho Verde? 5 things I didn’t know about this perfect summer wine. 
  • Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm savors Tomato Poached Cod with Vinho Verde Wine. 
  • Linda at My Full Wine Glass realizes that Distinctively ‘Laurel' Vinho Verde Delivers with Seafood and Salad. 
  • Payal at Keep the Peas is pairing Sem Igual Vinho Verde with Peixe Caldine. 
  • Gwendolyn at Wine Predator says Vinho Verde: A Green Wine That’s White from Portugal Paired with Tuna, Tomato, Basil, Orzo.
  • Martin at ENOFYLZ Wine Blog is Pairing Maria Papoila Vinho Verde with Summer Pizza. 
  • Susannah at Avvinare explains how Vinho Verde Meets Homemade Sushi. 
  • Terri at Our Good Life savors Scallops, Smashed Peas and a Great Vinho Verde. 
  • Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairing achieves A Successful Hunt Down of a Red Vinhao Escolha from Vinho Verde DOC. 
  • Cindy at Grape Experiences has been reminiscing upon last fall’s work trip where she spent A Morning Visit to Quinta da Aveleda in Vinho Verde.


Additional sources used for this post:
  • Wines of Portugal
  • Vinho Verde 
  • Wine-searcher.com 
  • The Oxford Companion via Jancisrobinson.com 
  • Guildsomm.com 
  • VinePair: 7 Things You Need To Know About Vinho Verde 
  •  Winefolly.com: 101 Guide To Vinho Verde Wine from Portugal


 This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.


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Somm's Table 2017