Cooking to the Wine: Vinos del Viento Cariñena with Smoky Octopus, Bacon Smashed Potatoes, and Romesco Sauce (#WorldWineTravel)
Today we have an inexpensive wine that inspired a whole lot of lily gilding.
At $16, the Vinos del Viento Cariñena Selección Especial 2015 ain’t fancy, but it somehow pushed to make a rather elaborate dinner, at least by weekday standards. Once we came with the basic idea for the pairing, we just kept zhuzhing. I’m in no way sorry though – the results were fabulous.
Cariñena ²
Cariñena is both the name of a grape and a region in Spain and today we’re talking about both.
The Grape
I think the Cariñena grape deserves a second look – or a first look if it’s new to you. It’s also possible you’ve met it under one of its aliases. Carignan is its name in English, but it also goes by Mazuelo, Samsó, and several other names.
It’s also possible you’ve had it and never realized it because it’s most often used as a blending grape in many of the places it’s grown including in Spain and throughout southern France. Moreover, it’s usually a supporting character at best – like not even top three billing.
By Viala et Vermorel - Ampélographie, Public Domain, Link |
For much of its history, this grape was also overcropped and overplanted for its high yields and often not handled with much care or an eye towards quality. Thanks to this overproduction in the late 20th century and early 2000s, it became a major component of Europe’s Wine Lake, the surplus of cheap wine that flooded the EU for a time. To help control this problem, many vines were pulled and many of those pulled were Carignan, and probably rightfully so.
What’s interesting is that a lot of the Cariñena vines that are left are really old vines now and are making very compelling wines IMHO. (This seems to be true to me outside of Europe as well, as there are also excellent old vine examples coming out of the US and elsewhere.)
Despite all the shade this grape has received, I think this grape has a lot going for it! It’s deeply colored and is naturally high in both tannin and acidity. These factors are a big part of the reason that the grape has been so often used as a blending grape. It makes sense to me that if farmed with care and in the hands of conscientious producers, this grape can produce really tasty wines. They’re also often reasonably priced since it’s not usually considered to be a star grape. A lot of the more modern examples I’ve tasted also have been handled with methods to tame the tannins (such as carbonic maceration) so that they’re not as intense or bitter, as they can be in bad versions of the grape.
You can expect juicy mixed berry flavors from Cariñena/Carignan along with spices and wild herb and game flavors. Good examples are often very food-friendly.
The Place
The grape takes the name Cariñena from the town (and DO) of the same name in the larger region of Aragon in northeastern Spain. Most likely the grape did originate in the area, and once upon a time, it dominated the vineyards of its home area. However, nowadays, Grenache is the leader in the vineyards. Cariñena (the grape) is prone to certain diseases, and Grenache seems to generally suit the environment better. Nonetheless, there seems to be some renewed interest in bringing back Cariñena as a varietal wine. A wide mix of other red and white grapes are also permitted, so while the region is known for full-bodied Grenache-based reds, a variety of other styles are produced here, albeit in much smaller quantities.
Cariñena lies about halfway between Madrid and Barcelona in the Ebro Valley, occupying about 82 square kilometers. It’s not easy terrain. It’s extremely rocky with a continental climate and extreme seasonal variation. It gets super cold and windy here, although those winds have their upside. In the summer, they provide relief from the intense heat and protect the vines from humidity. Elevations vary quite a bit, with most vineyards being located between 400 and 800 meters (1,300-2,600ft).
Winemaking here goes way back. There are records dating back until Roman times at the very least. The region has also had many famous fans throughout the years. King Ferdinand I of Aragon considered it his favorite wine and Voltaire waxed poetic about it. It’s one of the oldest demarcated appellations in Europe, and it’s the second oldest in Spain having received its DO status in 1932.
Cariñena’s vines are likewise very old, with forty percent of the vines being more than 20 years old. The oldest vines in the region are over a hundred years old. Somehow the majority of the region escaped the plague of phylloxera, so their vines had a leg up on most of Europe.
The region was known for big, burly wines, that weren’t always of the best quality. However, they’ve been refocusing on quality in the last few decades. Winemakers are experimenting with new techniques and sustainable vineyard practices are becoming increasingly common. The DO also dropped the minimum ABV in from 14 to 12% in 1990, which certainly allows winemakers more flexibility in their winemaking and the ability to make lighter, fresher styles along with the big and the bold.
You might also see age classifications on bottles from Cariñena. These are similar to those you’ll find in Rioja, with designations such as Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva. (You can find those laid out in detail here.)
THE WINE & PAIRING
A’ight, let’s get back to the wine and food!
I love Grenache, but I thought it would be fun to take a look at a bottle of Cariñena from Cariñena because I’m a dork. I found what I was looking for at K&L in San Francisco in the Vinos del Viento Cariñena Selección Especial 2015. In addition to the grape, the wine was also very nicely priced, and – I’m not gonna lie – I also liked the label. K&L is importing wines from Vinos del Viento themselves, which I’m sure helps them keep the price down.
Vinos del Viento, which is means “wines of the wind”, is a project focused on showcasing the terroir of Aragon through its indigenous varieties Garnacha and Cariñena. Winemaker Michael Cooper is a California native from Santa Barbara, who moved to Spain in 2002, and has become a “Vine Hunter” (per the website) in the process. He has searched out high altitude, old-vines (between 35 and 99 years old), and dry farmed vineyards with unique microclimates. The goal is to make wines of purity and freshness that are priced for everyday drinking, but that also show complexity. In addition to being dry-farmed, no pesticides are used in the vineyards and the bottles used are lightweight, made from recycled materials, and are made locally.
Cooper started making varietal wines from Cariñena back in 2009 when basically no one else was doing it. The vines that gave the grapes for this wine come from a vineyard in Cariñena located at 700 meters above sea level. The vines are over 40+-year-old bush vines that are hand-harvested. A splash of Syrah mixed in with the Carignan.
Greg and I both really enjoyed this wine. Last week Greg brought his A-game to the pairing party; this week he came up with a gem of a tasting note. Rather than the usual, his tasting note came out as a story and it went something like this:
In the heart of a burnt-out forest, a magical tomato-blackberry fruit grew out of the ash and bramble. The fruit was dark and rich and the villagers from the nearby town came and harvested it. They transported it back to town in barrels made from the forest’s charred wood. Of course, in the process of collecting the fruit, some of the dust and bramble made it into the barrels as well. Once they got the fruit back to town, the barrels sat out for just a bit in the sun, which warmed the juicy fruit and deepened the flavors.
I really don’t think I can improve on that, so I’m just going to leave it there other than to say that despite the intensity of flavor and 14.5% alcohol, this wine didn’t feel heavy and it went down very easily. It had lots of bright acidity that kept everything lifted and very smooth tannins.
We considered lots of options for this wine and thought it would go with lots of different foods, although all of our pairing ideas did involve some kind of smoky flavor element. I really liked the idea of this wine with some kind of meaty seafood, and we landed on octopus flavored with smoked paprika and probably involving tomatoes and red peppers. We also decided that bacon should somehow be involved, and I decided that said bacon should be topping potatoes. Something was still missing though, and it finally dawned on me that what I wanted with all of this was Romesco sauce. This sauce from Catalonia incorporates tomatoes, peppers, almonds, garlic, and smoked paprika, so basically all the flavors I was looking for.
The dish resulting from all of these ideas was octopus braised in wine, which then got a quick sear to finish, served on smashed potatoes cooked in bacon fat and topped with the bacon bits with Romesco sauce.
Like I said, this was quite a bit of work for a weekday, but the results were just so tasty! On the other hand, I think this dish is a perfect candidate for leisurely weekend cooking. The octopus takes time, but it’s really pretty easy to make. Similarly, the potatoes require a couple of steps, but they’re simple and involves smashing things, which is always satisfactory. The sauce is a breeze – throw everything in the blender and it’s done.
If you’re looking to simplify things, I’ll say that I think any two of the three components here will work well together as a duo. Serve the octopus with the potatoes and use a little bit of the octopus’ braising liquid as a sauce. Or keep things light and serve the octopus with sauce and have a salad on the side. The potatoes and the Romesco are a no-brainer, giving you something every close to patatas bravas. If you cut things into small portions, any of these combinations could also be a tapa. Any of these options is bound to be a hit!
The pairing as served was really fantastic. The wine matched the flavors in the sauce and the char on the octopus beautifully. It also matched the intensity of the food, but at the same time, the wine’s brightness really refreshed the palate so that nothing felt heavy despite the richness. We also served this wine very slightly chilled (more like cellar temperature) which made it all the more refreshing.
OTHER POSSIBILITIES
We were extremely tempted to pair this wine with these Juicy Lucies topped with pimento cheese. It was very close, as we’re pretty sure this would be an excellent burger wine. Other dishes we considered included paella, a pizza flavored with smoked paprika, meatballs in a tomato-pepper sauce, carbonara with smoked paprika (basically all options involved smoked paprika), salmon with charred skin and a smoky sauce, and all kinds of shellfish and cephalopods.
The winery also recommends:“Roasted poultry, grilled meats, stews. Blue Fish dishes like grilled Ahi tuna.”
I’ve previously shared a couple of other octopus dishes here, and I think you could pretty easily mix and match the wines and dishes:
- Cooking to the Wine: Passagem Douro Reserva with Spiced Wine Braised Octopus
- Cooking to the Wine: Bodegas LAN Rioja Reserva with Smoky Seared Octopus
THE GEEKY DETAILS
Additional details can be found in the tech sheet.
Blend: 85% Cariñena (Carignan), 15% Syrah
Viticulture: Single Vineyard, 40+-year-old bush vines, dry farmed, and hand-harvested. The vineyard is allocated 700 meters above sea level in the municipality of Cariñena, with alluvial soil, mixed with brown slate and high iron content clay.
Winemaking: The fermentation took place in stainless steel vats with native yeasts. Aged in new French oak barrels for 12 months. Minimal filtration.
Alcohol: 14.5%
MONEY TALK
At $16, I absolutely think this wine is an Overachiever and delivers excellent value. It's also currently on sale for $11 at K&L – I think that's crazy good deal. I might need to drag myself over the bridge again to SF to buy more!
Smoky Octopus Braised in Red Wine
Ingredients
- 1 Octopus (2 to 3 pounds)
- ½ onion, roughly chopped into large pieces
- 3 to 4 garlic cloves
- 1 bottle inexpensive red wine (if you’d rather not give up the whole bottle, use 2 glasses and combine with water in the pan)
- 2 to 3 sprigs of oregano
- 1 sprig of rosemary
- 2 to 3 parsley stems
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- Salt
- Pepper
- Olive oil
Instructions
- Prep the octopus. If it hasn’t already been cleaned by your fishmonger, wash and clean it. Make a cut around the beak, push the beak out then pull it away and the rest of the organs will come with it. You can also cut around the eyes to remove them.
- Add a generous pour of olive oil (2 to 3 tablespoons) to a large pot or braising pan, followed by the rest of the ingredients including a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the temperature down to a low simmer. Add the octopus to the pot. The liquid should nearly cover the octopus – if needed add additional water to the pan. Cover and continue to cook the octopus over a very gentle simmer for about two hours, or until it is tender can be pierced easily by a fork or knife.
- Once the octopus is cooked, remove it from the pot (reserving the cooking liquid for later use) and pat it dry with paper towels.
- Heat a generous pour of olive oil in a large pan until it begins to shimmer. Add the octopus to the pan and sear until starting to char lightly, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from heat, cut into portions and serve with potatoes or grilled bread.
Notes:
If you're intimidated by the idea of cleaning and preparing octopus, check this really quick tutorial on YouTube for a demo.
*****
Bacon Smashed Potatoes
Ingredients
- 1 lb potatoes (I used small Yukon golds here)
- 4 slices of bacon
- Salt
- Pepper
- Olive oil (if needed)
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 425°F.
- Place potatoes in a large pot. Cover with cold water and salt generously. Place the pot on the stove, bring to a boil, and cook until a knife or fork easily pierces the potatoes. (Timing will vary depending on the size of the potatoes, so begin checking after the potatoes have been boiling for 5 minutes. It should take about 10 to 20 minutes total.) Remove from the heat, drain the water from the potatoes, then set aside until cool enough to handle.
- Crisp the bacon while the potatoes are boiling. Place the slices of bacon on a rimmed bacon sheet and cook in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until crispy and golden browned, flipping the slices once halfway through. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and transfer the bacon to another plate, and reserve the baking sheet with the rendered bacon fat.
- Once the potatoes have cooled down a bit, use a potato masher, fork, or the bottom of a mug (or anything else you can think of to help you put pressure on the potatoes) to smash each potato individually, trying to keep them as close to in one piece as possible (but don’t worry if some pieces break off).
- Place the smashed potatoes on the baking sheet and toss them lightly in the rendered bacon fat. If needed, drizzle additional olive oil on top. Sprinkle with salt a pepper. Place in the oven and roast for 30 to 40 minutes, flipping the potatoes once halfway through. The potatoes are ready when they’re crispy and golden on the outside, but still a little bit fluffy in the center. Crumble up the bacon slices and add them to the potatoes during the last minute or two of cooking to rewarm.
- Remove the potatoes from the oven and serve hot.
Notes:
Notes: You can easily customize the texture of these potatoes in a couple of different ways. If you smash the potatoes lightly, the final texture will be on the fluffier side. On the other hand, if you flatten them more or smash them in a way that causes them to break apart into smaller pieces, you’ll end up with a crispier texture. You can also pull them out whenever they’re browned to your liking since they’re already fully cooked – 20 minutes might be enough for some people if you like a softer texture or leave them in longer to have them be extra crispy. Finally, if you skip flipping the potatoes halfway through, you’ll end up a combined texture with potatoes that are crispier on one side and fluffier on the other, which can also be nice.
******
Easy Romesco Sauce
Ingredients
- ounce jar of roasted red peppers, drained
- ½ cup slivered almonds, roasted
- ¼ cup tomato purée or crushed tomatoes
- 8 to 10 cherry tomatoes or one small tomato
- 3 to 4 garlic cloves garlic, peeled
- 1 tsp sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- ¼ tsp cayenne pepper
- 2 Tbsps chopped flat-leaf parsley
- ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt
- Pepper
Instructions
- Blend the first 9 ingredients in a blender or food processor. Add in salt (start with ½ tsp and add more as desired) and pepper. Start drizzling in the olive oil while continuing to run the blender/food processor. Continue blending until you reach your desired consistency – pulse for a chunky sauce or blend for a creamier texture. Taste and adjust seasoning.
- Serve.
Notes:
Romesco sauce can separate and lose its creamy texture if cooked over too high heat. I often like to serve it warm though, and will often use the following trick: Place the sauce in a mason jar and cover. Place the mason jar in a small pot of simmering water and keep warm until ready to serve.
This recipe also makes more than we can typically eat in a week, however, I find that this sauce freezes well. It might separate a bit when you decide to thaw it, but a bit of stirring or a quick run through the blender makes it all creamy again.
******
The beautiful iridescent Aura Wine Glasses in these photos were provided by Dragon Glassware as samples. I've partnered with Dragon Glassware as an ambassador. Click here to get the glasses for yourself and use the code "NICOLE10" for 10% off. (I might receive commission through the links at no cost to you.) |
*****
The rest of the World Wine Travel blogging group is exploring the wines of Aragon this month, hosted by Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm. Be sure to check out the rest of their posts:
- 2015 Vinos del Viento Cariñena + Pulled Pork Sandwiches by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
- A Tale of Garnacha, Exploring Aragon by Avvinare
- Aragón by Tabletop: Arroz Aragonés + 2015 Vinos del Viento Cariñena by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
- Aragon’s Carinena and Castles + Olive Anchovy Sammies by Wine Predator
- Calatayud, Aragon Wines: Evodia + Fully Loaded Pork Taquitos by Our Good Life
- Campo De Borja: The Empire of Garnacha by My Full Wine Glass
- Cooking to the Wine: Vinos del Viento Cariñena with Smoky Octopus, Bacon Smashed Potatoes, and Romesco Sauce by Somm's Table
- Exploring Aragon via Plate and Glass by Food Wine Click!
- Exploring the Kingdom of Aragon and Its Wines by Crushed Grape Chronicles
- Fountains of Wine in the Land of Kings by Children of the Grape
- Heading to Aragón and Valdejalón with Bodegas Frontonio by Savor the Harvest
- Learning Spain - Aragon's Four Wine Regions: Carinena, Somontano, Calatayud, and Campo De Borja Through Eight Wines by Chinese Food and Wine Pairings
- Two Bottles of Lovely Wine from a Lovely Area by A Day in the Life on the Farm
Additional sources used for this post and extra reading:
- El Vino de las Piedras DOP Cariñena
- Wine-searcher.com
- Grandes Vinos: Carineña
- SpanishWines.org: Aragon
- Winefolly.com: Guide to Carignan: The Food Wine
- The Oxford Companion via JancisRobinson.com
- Young Gun of Wine: Carignan
- Grapes & Wines: A Comprehensive Guide to Varieties and Flavours
- Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours
This post contains Amazon Affiliate links, from which I might earn a commission at no cost to you.
12 comments
Oh my....what a magical pairing, post and poem. Thanks so much for joining me this month.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for leading the journey!
DeleteI've been anxious to read what both you and Martin thought of the wine since we all had the same bottle. Go, K&L!! ;) And now I'm on the hunt for a whole octopus. I normally get it at Whole Foods, but I haven't seen any recently.
ReplyDelete100% Agree - Go K&L! And Whole Foods is exactly where I go my octopus.
DeleteWhat a wonderful read! You really allowed me to picture this region. Greg's tasting note is sublime and that dish! We actually just picked up octopus from Trader Joe's and I might need to try to recreate this dish! It's stunning and mouthwatering!
ReplyDeleteThanks Robin!
DeleteWow - way to go, Nicole! Love how one thing leads to another in your pairing and elevates the wine. I love the smokiness of Carignan. Greg's story tasting note is wonderful, too!
ReplyDeleteThanks Linda -- I was impressed with his wine note too!
DeleteHaven't cooked let alone had octopus in years and now I'm craving this dish! Reading all the articles this month the consistent thread (so far) is fresh, higher acid reds. I like them slightly chilled like you say. Tell your hubby great job ;-D
ReplyDeleteThanks Lynn! I'm always a little surprised at how easy it is to cook octopus, just have to keep low and slow and a quick sear.
Deletewhat a fascinating wine project. I'm not sure how he is able to pay the bills with the wine retailing in the US for $15!
ReplyDeleteLOL So true!
DeleteThanks so much for leaving your comments and questions. I always love to hear from you!